Method number 2. Favorite method of 80% of services that don’t like to think
Consists of 2 stages:
a) Mechanical removal of the catalyst (to facilitate the passage of gases in the exhaust system) followed by installation of a flame arrester.
b) Installation of a mechanical blende, supposedly to prevent an error in the operation of the catalyst.
But let's figure out how mechanical snags work and why you can't install them.
To understand, let’s consider the design of installing a lambda probe normally and through a mechanical blende.
During the normal installation of the lambda probe, the exhaust gases are HEATED, CLEANED, VENTILATED and BURNED the sensor (operating temperature of the sensor is 350-400 degrees).
But as soon as you install it in a mechanical blende (take it away from the main flow), it clearly does not heat up (ALREADY LYING), is not ventilated, is not burned out, and if it somehow started working at the beginning, then the question arises how long it will take for it to stop working.
The catalytic converter is knocked out, is this bad for the car?
As I wrote above, this is simply an environmental system, and if it is not there, then the car, on the contrary, will improve its characteristics (power, consumption). To put it simply, initially the engine doesn’t care about this converter, but it creates an obstacle in the muffler, overcoming which takes part of the engine’s energy (more on this below).
But why on many cars, if this unit fails (say, melted, clogged or crumbled), the CHECK ENGINE and the car begins to behave abnormally, traction disappears, sometimes it trots a little, and simply may not start at all.
And here, friends, everything is simple. If the catalyst is melted or clogged, then the exhaust gases cannot pass through it normally, which means that some returns back into the combustion chamber and makes the newly introduced combustible mixture less efficient. The motor is choking itself.
If there is no melting, but the “CHECK” light comes on, then perhaps it has simply worn out due to high mileage. In modern cars there are so-called oxygen sensors (lambda umbrellas), one is located in front of the catalyst, the other after and detects the presence of harmful compounds; if their percentage has increased, then the second (or also called the lower “lambda”) gives a signal that the converter is not working ( or it doesn’t do its job as it should) AND IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. By the way, some cars may not even start (a tribute to the environment).
Thus, by knocking out or removing it, you simply free the car’s exhaust tract from the obstacle in the form of a filter and lower its environmental standards. BUT AGAIN - THIS DOES NOT AFFECT THE RESOURCE OF THE POWER UNIT !
BUT in order for your car to drive normally, you need to upgrade to a lower environmental class (usually EURO2) or install a fake one. Otherwise, the program in the ECU will not allow you to drive normally.
Method number 3. The mechanical component is no different from method 2.
But the implementation of normalization of engine operation is more complicated here: using special equipment, the engine control program is read and the EURO-2 program is loaded.
This is where the main questions arise: where was this program born, who created it, will it harm the operation of the engine, will problems appear after some time.
And how to solve them then?
“We flashed such cars” is not an argument.
Here the technology is as follows:
The program is read, uploaded to the Internet, another program is received and loaded into the machine.
“You see the check is not lit” - that means EURO-2. Why EURO-2, who said EURO-2, who created this program - there are only questions.
Most often, mistakes are made about catalysts, lambda probes and that’s it.
Popular myths
Varieties
Some people deliberately get rid of the catalyst, others deliberately ignore the clogged unit. All this caused the spread of myths.
- By removing it, the engine gains power. A misconception that arose for unknown reasons.
- The engine cannot “breathe” normally due to the catalyst. Absurd. It functions quite well if the cat itself is in working order.
- A clogged element ensures a more environmentally friendly ride. Another myth, the origin of which can only be guessed at. Rather, on the contrary, a clogged device harms nature and your car even more.
Therefore, monitor the condition of the catalyst on the VAZ 2114, check its functional condition, and if necessary, replace it with a new one or replace it with a flame arrester. Both options have shown their effectiveness.
1. Remove the Euro Catalyst (under the bottom in the muffler pipes) 2. Install the Zero Resistance Catalyst (spider) If Euro 2, then brain firmware is optional. If Euro 3, then it is necessary. Now the car breathes deeply, and can squeeze out higher revs, receives more oxygen, which makes the engine happy, and by chance the poor quality of gasoline does not bring it a choking death. There are no nuances, all advantages, with the exception of the unscrupulous attitude towards our ecology, which has already been killed in the trash.
-Briefly about the important things:
“Irregularities in engine operation, for example, misfires, operation on low-quality fuel, faulty lambda probes, etc., can lead to an increase in the temperature of the catalyst and its destruction (the “honeycomb” of the catalyst can melt and clog). If the catalyst is hit (the car hits an obstacle), its ceramic filling may collapse and clog the exhaust tract. Catalysts cannot be repaired. The new catalyst is quite expensive and, which is a shame, won’t work on Russian fuel for long.”
Method number 4. Now the method that we chose, we implemented it.
In the mechanical component, after removing the catalyst from the housing, we make a system inside the catalyst housing that dampens the sound so that it is not loud after removal. At the same time, we do not change the factory geometry of the pipes, and there are no external changes. From an electronics point of view, we connect an electronic device (emulator) developed by us to the standard lambda probe sensor, which is in its original place, which changes the sensor signal so that the control unit concludes that the catalyst is installed and functioning correctly. At the same time, by definition, we cannot harm anything.
Replacement for an 8-valve engine
Option for an eight-valve device
Some believe that instead of a failed filter device, you can install a regular corrugated pipe . Also a wrong decision. This will make the noise incredibly loud, and the exhaust gases will very quickly destroy the muffler. You can get by with a budget replacement option - cut out a section of the catalyst, knock out a honeycomb of ceramics from it and perform welding, thereby sealing the body. But be prepared for noise to become your constant companion.
It is best to replace the factory catalyst with an effective flame arrester. They assemble it with their own hands or seek help at a service station, and also purchase ready-made solutions at auto parts stores. Whichever option suits you best, choose that one.
Removing the unit and replacing it with another device is a matter of one hour. At the same time, there is no need to worry about electronics. There is only one oxygen sensor, and it is installed before the catalyst. Therefore, replacing it with a flame arrester will not affect the measurement readings in any way.
Fuel consumption
After you have removed this filter, many are tormented by the question of fuel consumption - will it increase or not? Of course, he will fall (so I think), no matter what anyone says. Let's think logically - if there is this filter element, it represents an obstacle that the exhaust gases need to overcome, and accordingly the engine will spend more effort to push them through (consumption increases slightly). If this element is NOT present, then the “working out” will be much easier - fuel will be saved.
Of course, you shouldn’t expect any global savings, usually it’s about 3% (maximum), but it’s worth noting that consumption will drop slightly.
Firmware for EURO2 and snag – what does this mean?
As I wrote above, the second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) controls harmful emissions. Their number is now strictly regulated by European standards, which are called “EURO”; I will not talk about EURO “0-1” now; we are interested in the second generation.
So, what is EURO2 ? It was introduced a long time ago, namely in 1996. AT that time, the cars received an innovative system, namely a catalyst. As we all know, over time it can become clogged, and the fuel then was not the same as now, it had a lot of sulfur, which contributed to the honeycombs clogging much faster, and as you and I know, the car began to choke itself. Then the engineers installed an oxygen sensor, there was only one, and it was needed to capture CO2 in the chamber in front of the catalytic converter.
If the CO2 level increased, this indirectly indicated that the catalyst was clogged (that is, a backpressure effect was manifested); the sensor sent this information to the ECU and the ignition was adjusted, namely, a decrease in the supply of the fuel mixture. Thus, the power dropped significantly, the car did not drive and the owner “willy-nilly” had to go to a service station and change this spare part.
BUT, as you and I know, the price tag is, to put it mildly, HIGH, so many owners simply removed these honeycombs and the POWER RESTORED!
But how? YES, everything is simple, the CO2 level in the chamber in front of the neutralizer dropped significantly, the oxygen sensor recorded this (that everything is in order) and the car drove cheerfully and without constraint. This suited everyone, BUT NOT ECOLOGISTS! Therefore, they introduced the EURO3 standard (now the EURO5 standard already exists). What has changed is that a second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) just appeared behind the catalyst. The principle of operation here is this : the first lambda (before the filter) records the level of harmful substances, the second (after it) should record a much lower level, because the harmful substances have decomposed.
If you remove the catalyst cells , then both sensors will record the same values (“the second one” supplies information to the ECU), thus, CHECK ENGINE will light up, the power will drop, and the car will not drive. Now this doesn't solve the problem.
What is done with firmware for EURO2? The firmware in the ECU is changed, instead of EURO3.4 standards, EURO2 standards are installed. The essence of all these actions is banal - we simply turn off the second lower lambda (only the upper one remains), the car begins to drive as expected, without underestimating the power.
But such interventions in the firmware are not entirely good. The whole point is that they don’t produce them themselves, okay, the second “lambda” is simply turned off, that is, they simply adjust the readings. Or maybe this programmer will want to put some incomprehensible algorithms into the ECU, the engine will definitely not benefit from this. You need to be very careful here.
Therefore, we found a second solution, and I think it is more correct - installing a blende. What is a snag - essentially it is a “spacer” in front of the second oxygen sensor, it seems to move it a greater distance from the exhaust gases, it detects more oxygen and starts working normally.
Now there are several options for deception:
- Empty . It's just a tube with a very thin hole at the end (the part that screws into the muffler), and an oxygen sensor is screwed into the other side. A limited amount of harmful substances from the exhaust passes through it, there are no excesses and therefore CHECK does not burn.
- With a mini-catalyst inside . That is, right in the “spacer” there are, as it were, mini honeycombs, which also clean the exhaust precisely to record normal values.
- Angular . These are both of the types described above, only they are made at an angle of 90 degrees; they are needed for difficult places.
The advantages of the decoy are that you don’t need to go into the ECU and change the standard firmware, as well as the price (knocked out the cells, screwed on the decoy and that’s it, you can spend 3,000 - 5,000 rubles).
