If a problem with the window regulator on a VAZ-2114 occurs while the car is moving, and the driver himself cannot correct the situation on the spot, you need to call a tow truck. The movement of a car when the window has stopped going up or down due to a breakdown, from the point of view of traffic regulations, threatens the safety of passengers and the driver himself. Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? There are many reasons: lowering is difficult because the fuse has blown, there is a malfunction in the door, etc. This article contains information about the types of failures of window regulators on the VAZ-2114, about methods for adjusting and dismantling the mechanism.
Device classification
Window lifters on the VAZ-2114 are standard for other models of the Samara series. They are classified by drive type into:
- mechanical;
- electric.
The latter are divided depending on the method of transmission of the motor impulse:
- lever;
- rack and pinion;
- cable
By type of construction:
- collapsible;
- whole.
Each model has its own advantages, disadvantages and price. Standard configurations of window lifting mechanisms on the VAZ-2114 consist of two types. Electric drive mechanisms are installed in front, while the rear doors are equipped with mechanical devices.
What to do if the window regulator on a VAZ does not work
Repair of a VAZ window regulator
As a rule, if the window regulator on a VAZ 2110 does not work, this is not surprising. Unfortunately, these designs are not able to boast of their reliability. If the power windows on the VAZ 2110 do not work, you will have to repair them yourself. Of course, you can replace this device with a new one. Moreover, today there are many varieties of ESPDs sold on the market. But why waste extra money, especially since if the VAZ 2110’s power windows don’t work, they can be easily repaired.
The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work
There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.
The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.
The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:
- Damage to the components of the control unit.
- The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
- Disconnecting the power supply.
- The control button has stopped performing its functions.
Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.
VAZ 2114 window lifter goes down but does not go up
Reader question.
Help me figure out the problem. The power window raises the window all the way, but does not lower it. I transferred the buttons from a known working lift - everything was the same. I disassembled the door, current flows from the button to the electric motor, and if you press the button up, then the plus comes from one wire, if you press the button down, then the plus comes from the other wire, only 2 wires to the electric motor.
Only a small part remains, in the photo with a blue sticker, it says AR00611, 15M6K. Who can tell me if she is responsible in the engine for making it spin in different directions? If not, where should I dig and what should I check?
The power window raises but does not lower the window
Often it's just a matter of the motor. tap a little with a hammer and everything becomes humming, but not for long. The brain brushes are most likely floating. and “+” is changed by the button itself
The motor turns freely (in one direction), everything is lubricated, the brushes are not burnt, and besides, why does it only turn as it should in one direction, and absolutely zero in the other? - obviously not in brushes.
they change places, but in general it is immediately checked directly with the battery: + and - you change places and see how it works
A plug with two wires, an up button on the left (for example, plus), a down button on the right, plus. There should be a minus on the opposite ones at this time, right?
- I change places, for example, but it spins only in one direction, is this small part to blame (in the photo with a blue sticker), or does the motor simply spin in different directions because of the change in polarity?
- Measure the voltage at the connector removed from the motor. You can just plug in a light bulb.
- This is a spark arresting capacitor, it either works or it doesn't. regardless of polarity.
- This means that this capacitor protects the brushes from burning, and that’s not the problem.
- Then fantastic)
- The mechanics cannot be at fault, I completely disconnected the motor, the gear rotates smoothly freely, but only in one direction
- what car?
- I think it’s a button or buttons, if there are duplicates
- as options, put this engine in place of the working one or take a working button and connect it to this engine
- + and - with the battery directly and check. then change the polarity and check again
Broken power window button
Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? A very common reason for this is that its buttons fail. If the mechanism begins to work at a slow speed after a certain time, the plates inside it may have oxidized. This caused a breakdown in contact: it appears intermittently or disappears completely.
It makes sense to check the version with a broken button, replacing it with a working one. Just swap them. The part is dismantled using a knife or screwdriver. Use the tip to pry it from below and remove it from the chip.
If after installation it turns out that the non-working window regulator began to move the glass, and the working one began to move, on the contrary, then it is worth purchasing a new part and replacing it. If the problem is not with the button, then you need to continue searching for the causes of the breakdown.
Major breakdowns of power windows
Depending on the configuration of the car, it can be equipped with both mechanical (manual) and electric windows. It is from which of these options is installed on your car that you should begin searching for the corresponding faults.
Thus, for manually operated window regulators the following types of damage are most typical:
- failure of rods (bending of rods when excessive force is applied);
- jamming of traction joints;
- spontaneous unwinding and loss of fasteners.
It is quite simple to fix all these malfunctions with your own hands; you just need to correctly dismantle the window regulator and carry out repairs (we will tell you how to remove the device mechanism below).
In turn, if the power windows on a VAZ 2114 do not work, then the possible reasons for this may be:
- fuse blown (at the same time playing the role of a fog light fuse);
- failure of relay K5;
- break in the power supply circuit of the lifts;
- drive motor burnout.
Relay
One of the reasons for the breakdown of the glass door lift mechanism may be that the relay does not work or the fuse has blown.
- Find the safety block under the hood of the car.
- According to the diagram, determine the location of the relay itself and the fuse, which make up the links of the electric glass lifting mechanism (ESM) chain.
- The legs of the elements must be clean, with a pronounced metallic sheen.
- If traces of oxidation, dirt deposits, etc. are found, you need to clean them off. Mechanically or using special means, for example, WD-40.
- You can check the relay for functionality in the same way as a button. The working element should be removed from another unit and mounted into the ESP system.
- If newly installed parts fail again within a short period of time, then the problem is in the wiring itself.
A breakdown may occur with the lift motor. It either burns out completely, or the worm mechanism inside it fails. In the latter case, the device makes a characteristic sound when the button is pressed, but the glass remains motionless.
The reason for the breakdown of the ESP may be that it has a common power source and the external lighting. And if the fuse for the foglights is blown out, the window regulator will not work.
Window lift repair
The front left window regulator stopped working. I went to the store, they offered me the same non-dismountable motor and a bar with a cable for 1000 rubles. and a collapsible one, a separate bar with a cable and a separate motor for 800 rubles, they advised to take a collapsible one.
I didn’t buy it, I came to my garage and began to disassemble the door, took out this thing without removing the glass, disassembled the motor, and saw that the brushes had worn out, opened the Internet, found an article where craftsmen make window lifters for foreign cars, and decided to do the same.
I bought brushes for a VAZ 08 for 15 rubles, disassembled it, took out two of them with copper wires, sanded them down on sandpaper (price 28 rubles for 10 sheets, it took only 3 centimeters) to about the size they fit, and inserted them. I assembled everything and it works! The standard window regulator is not dismountable.
Situations
There are situations where power windows stop working under repeated circumstances.
For example, after driving on a dirt road or bumps, the mechanism begins to move the glass in jerks. When opening the casing, it is sometimes discovered that the wire has come out of the chip or from the connector, or after visiting a car wash, incidents begin with the glass. Perhaps the depressurization of the insulation contributed to the fact that moisture penetrated into the electrical components of the system and short circuits or disruption of communication between contacts began. Chafing of the insulating layer of the wiring is one of the most common causes of problems with ESP. To facilitate diagnosis, it is worth observing what causes the standard fuse F6 to blow.
- If this moment is the activation of the lift itself, then, most likely, this place is somewhere under the door trim.
- If then, when you turn on the ignition, then it is worth checking the insulation of the wires from the door to the safety assembly block.
One of the weak points is where the bundle of wires goes from under the hood to the door trim.
Parallel connection - diagram
Wires from the main button next to the driver's ESP motor go directly to pin 88 of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger's ESP motor. A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button, thereby eliminating unnecessary relay clicking when the main button on the passenger door is operating.
Dismantling the old unit
If the electrical elements have been more or less decided, then the mechanical part of the problem is much more complicated. The described VAZ models have non-separable ESP structures. They are characterized as the most reliable, but in case of breakdown they require a complete replacement from the owner.
How the structure is dismantled.
- Remove the handle and rod.
- Lowering the glass, remove the holder.
- The glass is raised to the maximum and secured with tape.
- Unscrew all the nuts holding the mechanism to the door.
- Dismantling is complete and the device can be completely removed for diagnostics.
Next, you will decide whether to repair or replace with a new device.
How to remove a window regulator and install a new part
To remove the window regulator, do the following:
- Remove the inner door lock handle at the same time as the rod.
- Lower the glass a little so that the mounting bolts are visible in the amplifier hole.
- Using a ten key, unscrew a couple of bolts that hold the windows and the lift.
- Raise the glass as far as it will go and secure it with a screwdriver or tape.
- Discard the wiring harness from the door and power window motor.
- Using an eight-inch wrench, unscrew the seven mounting nuts holding the window regulator to the door.
Place the mechanism in its original place, in the reverse order of dismantling. Before doing this, treat the glass lift guide with lubricant.
Removing window regulators
Having talked about malfunctions and the principles for eliminating them, we will now figure out how to remove the window regulator of a VAZ 2114 (after all, without dismantling it, it will simply not be possible to inspect and repair the mechanism).
Despite the fact that manual and electrified lifts have completely different designs, they are installed according to the same principle inside the door technological cavity of the car.
Their removal should be carried out as follows:
- Remove the door trim.
- Raise or vice versa - lower the glass so that the fastening bolts of the glass frame appear in the upper hole of the door.
- Unscrew the two mounting bolts securing the glass in the frame.
- Lift the glass as high as possible with your hands and secure it with plastic or wooden wedges.
- Lower the lift slider to its lowest position.
- Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the guide (for the rear door, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the guide).
- Unscrew the 3 nuts securing the window lift mechanism (for the rear door, also unscrew the 3 nuts holding the window lift).
- Remove the window regulator through the technological opening in the door.
Installing a new device is done in exactly the same way, but in reverse order.
If the VAZ 2114 electric window regulator is being replaced, then before starting it you should disconnect the terminals from the battery so as not to cause a short circuit.
Also, to extend the life of lifts (both electric and manual), when replacing or repairing them, all joints and moving elements should be lubricated with CV joint grease or similar.
In conclusion, I would like to add that an important key to the long service life of lifts is their periodic inspection and maintenance.
So, if you have to exert considerable effort when opening/closing a window with a manual window lifter, or if the electric lifter begins to close the windows with great difficulty and creaking, then you do not need to wait for them to completely break down - you should dismantle these devices, tighten the fasteners and lubricate all moving parts.
How does the power window system work?
The operating principle is actually easier to understand than you might think. The system motor receives power through the wiring and is regulated by a fuse. Then, when you press the power window switch, the motor rotates. From there, an adjuster inside your window's clutch converts this rotation into an up and down motion.
In manual window systems, the mechanism is almost the same, and the initial rotation is made when you turn the window handle inside the car by hand.
When the parts inside a power or manual window system begin to wear out, it can cause the window to move incorrectly or not move at all.
