A rather successful development of the domestic automobile industry was the VAZ 2107 engine, which provided 1690 cubic centimeters of displacement. These characteristics allow the power unit to develop a maximum power of 79 horsepower. In this case, the peak torque of the engine is 127 Nm at 3200 rpm.
The VAZ 2107 injection engine was slightly redesigned by the manufacturers, as they added single fuel injection. Thanks to this solution, the inline four-cylinder engine began to work much better, and problems with it arose much less frequently.
Specifications
Engine capacity, cc | 1690 |
Maximum power, hp | 79 |
Maximum torque, N*m (kg*m) at rpm. | 127 (13) / 3200 |
Fuel used | Gasoline AI-92 |
Fuel consumption, l/100 km | 6.9 |
engine's type | In-line, 4-cylinder |
Add. engine information | single injection |
Maximum power, hp (kW) at rpm | 79 (58) / 5200 |
Number of valves per cylinder | 2 |
Video on checking the ignition module
It is important to set the ignition correctly after disassembling the power unit or removing the distributor without fixing the marks, otherwise you will not be able to start the car. This task is quite simple and does not require any deep knowledge or special tools. The main thing is to understand that a spark should appear in the 4th cylinder during the compression stroke and to catch this moment, acting according to the instructions.
- Author: Sergey Sergeev
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Peculiarities
The VAZ 2107 engine with an injector had a cylinder block made of high-quality cast iron. In it, all 4 cylinders are located in one row. The mass of the block is quite large, since it is the heaviest part of the structure, as it is made of cast iron.
The VAZ 2107 engine with a carburetor was also produced, and it was no different from its counterpart with an injector. The crankshaft was also made of cast iron, and it is placed on five supports, which are known among people as journals. The journals are hardened with high frequency current, and the crankshaft is machined with great precision.
Connecting rods are the parts that experience maximum loads in the structure, so forged steel was used for their production. The engine has 4 connecting rods - one for each cylinder. Inside there are piston pins that are installed from the factory. The markings on these parts correspond to the cylinders, since they cannot be swapped with each other.
The displacement of the VAZ 2107 engine is also achieved due to the fact that its pistons are cast from lightweight aluminum, as is the cylinder head. In order for the pistons to have better contact with the cylinder walls, a layer of tin is applied to the outer surfaces.
The gas distribution mechanism is driven by a chain. Together with it, there is a damper and tensioner, which manufacturers used for quieter operation of the power unit. But in practice this is practically not noticed.
The VAZ 2107 engine number, like most classic models from domestic manufacturers, is located near the oil filter. This is a kind of marking plate that is very difficult to confuse with other data, and is relatively easy to find.
Installing the ignition on a VAZ 2107 carburetor
Today, cars produced by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant are quite widespread on domestic roads. It should be noted that they are distinguished by their reliability, unpretentiousness, wear resistance of many structural elements and ease of maintenance. The VAZ-2107 model is also quite common.
The vehicle can be used for decades and not change its original appearance. Of course, when using a car, the driver needs to perform minor repairs. Without certain experience, if it is necessary to carry out repair work, certain difficulties and questions may arise.
One of these questions is how to set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 carburetor?
First of all, it is worth saying that installing the ignition on a VAZ 2107 (carburetor) is not difficult. With proper study of this issue, the work can be done independently. Let's try to figure out how to carry out this procedure.
It should be noted that it is necessary to monitor the condition of a car with a carburetor, since otherwise changes in the operation of the vehicle may occur. Signs that you need to set the ignition of the VAZ 2107 include a fairly high consumption of fuel fluid or uneven engine operation.
How to set the ignition
How to set the ignition correctly on a VAZ-2107
This process is not difficult at all. Almost anyone can cope with the work. For this purpose, it is necessary to stock up in advance with a 13 mm wrench, as well as a special tool for the crankshaft.
Before setting the ignition on the VAZ-2107 (carburetor), you must turn off the engine. Thus, the procedure is performed only if the engine has been completely turned off.
Initially, the piston of the first cylinder must be installed at the highest point located on the compression stroke.
First, you need to remove the spark plugs. The hole into which they were inserted must be plugged with something. Cotton wool may be suitable.
The next step is to align the VAZ 2107 ignition mark (carburetor) on the crankshaft and the protective cover on the engine. To this end, use a wrench to begin the procedure for turning the crankshaft. During this stage, the air that is there should help push out the cotton wool that was inserted. Try to slowly rotate the shaft until the mark on the pulley and the timing cover are in the same position.
Advantages
That's what, and with positive qualities, domestic engines constantly have problems. But despite this, the advantages of such engines still exist, which is why they are used in cars even today. The main positive qualities are the following:
- Repairing a VAZ 2107 engine is very simple. Its design features mean that even capitalizing the engine will not be difficult. The cylinder walls are thick enough to allow the engine to be bored more than once.
- Easy to maintain. The simplest design of the motor means that it can be repaired from almost any breakdown without much difficulty. Owners of such cars carry with them only a minimum set of tools.
- The engine speed of the VAZ 2107 is distributed in such a way that the car with it under the hood is quite high-torque.
- Engine life is its main advantage. In practice, such engines can travel more than 200 thousand kilometers without the need for major repairs. Only in order to achieve such indicators is it necessary to properly maintain the power unit.
When should you turn on the ignition?
The first thing you should know is that there are no regulations for this operation, since the ignition timing is set or adjusted only if necessary. It may be caused by the following reasons:
- You recently purchased a “Seven” on the secondary market and are trying to “bring it to mind.”
- After engine repair, accompanied by its disassembly.
- After unscrewing or removing the main ignition distributor (distributor), regardless of the reason why this was done.
- When switching from high-octane fuel to gasoline with a lower octane number and vice versa.
- After replacing the contact group or bearing in the distributor (in cars with an old ignition system).
Note. On VAZ 2107 vehicles equipped with an electronically controlled injector, the reason for checking the spark generation system may be the flashing of the Check Engine display on the instrument panel. True, it behaves in a similar way when a dozen more malfunctions occur. So ignition problems must first be diagnosed by contacting a service station.
In the vast majority of cases, the sparking moment is set as a result of a violation of the settings after disassembling or repairing the engine. A separate issue is the transition to high-octane gasoline, which requires ignition with greater advance, for which adjustments are being made.
It is advisable to check the timely formation of a discharge on the electrodes of the spark plugs in cases where unstable engine operation is observed, popping noises are heard in the carburetor and exhaust pipe, accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption. If you have not yet discovered the “gluttony” of the car, then pay attention to the color of the smoke; with high gasoline consumption, it is black, as is the carbon deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs.
Muffler repair on a “classic” is studied in detail here: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/vyhlop/zamena-glushitelya-vaz-2107.html
Problems
Cars with such engines under the hood have enough problems with frequent breakdowns. We must not forget that the engine was designed by Soviet engineers, so its vulnerabilities outnumber its positive qualities. The most common engine breakdowns are as follows:
- It often happens that the VAZ 2107 engine fails. This is a common breakdown that is associated with the fact that the batteries fail. Here it is worth paying attention not only to the ignition and its components, but also to look at the fuel pump.
- The power of the VAZ 2107 engine may drop significantly, and this is very noticeable, since the car stops accelerating normally. This is the first sign that the valves need to be adjusted, since there are no hydraulic compensators in the system.
- Often you have to add oil to the VAZ 2107 engine. Here everything looks much sadder, since this is a signal that the engine is gradually coming to an end. It is worth preparing mentally and financially for the fact that you will have to do major repairs.
- The temperature of the VAZ 2107 engine may not reach operating parameters or the car begins to quickly overheat. Everything is simple here - as a rule, the reason for this phenomenon is that the thermostat gets stuck in a large or small circle, respectively.
How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 with an injector?
The ignition system of the “Seven” with direct fuel injection operates under the control of an ECU that receives signals from the following sensors:
- crankshaft position;
- air flow;
- throttle position;
- lambda probe.
Multimeter for checking the ignition module
Based on the readings of these sensors, the controller itself determines the moment of spark formation, so the system is not configured in the usual sense. If any problems occur, the driver can only independently check the functionality of the ignition module, to which the high voltage wires from the cylinders are connected. To do this, you need to take a multimeter (ohmmeter) and perform the following steps:
- Disconnect all wires from the module.
- Set the maximum measurement value on the multimeter to 20 kOhm.
- Measure the resistance between the following pairs of terminals: 1 and 4, 2 and 3.
- If the measurement results fall outside the range of 3.6-4 kOhm, then the module is faulty and must be replaced.
The seven with an injector has an ignition module, which you can check yourself
Maintenance
In order to get trouble-free operation, as well as to guarantee that the engine will work for as long as possible, you need to properly maintain it. Fortunately, this is quite simple to do, since maintenance can be carried out even in the garage. Many people wonder how much oil is in the VAZ 2107 engine, and the answer is quite simple - the block is designed for 3.75 liters, but during replacement you need to fill in 3.5.
The valves on such an engine need to be adjusted every 10 thousand kilometers. But as practice shows, owners of cars with such a power unit under the hood only do this when the car stops moving. The gasoline filter needs to be changed every 15 thousand kilometers. The chain is tensioned every 40 thousand kilometers and must be replaced after 100 thousand kilometers.
Replacing the starter relay
Another common problem on VAZ 2107s with a carburetor is a malfunction of the starter relay. When you turn the key in the lock, the system makes a click, but the retractor relay does not operate. Replacing the relay is very simple.
First you need to remove the starter from the relay. Unscrew the 2 bolts that secure it. Slide it to the right and take it out, turning it backwards. Unscrew the nuts securing the starter and relay.
Unscrew the terminal.
Turn it to the side.
Remove the 2 bolts securing the relay to the starter.
Remove the relay.
Install the new one in reverse order.
If you follow these simple steps, your VAZ 2107, which has a carburetor system, will serve you for many more years.
Causes of clogging of the distributed injection system
One of the faults, a clogged injector, can be repaired with your own hands. The cause of the blockage is the use of low-quality gasoline. The lower the quality of the fuel, the more heavy paraffins it contains. They are deposited on the walls of the fuel system, clog the injector openings, making it difficult to supply fuel.
In addition, paraffins are deposited on the exhaust valves, which leads to their burnout. The engine begins to detonate.
To prevent this from happening, you need to use high-quality gasoline with special additives. But if clogging cannot be avoided, you can wash it yourself using a special flush of injection systems.
To rinse, you must have a syringe and rinsing liquid.
Mix the liquid with gasoline in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the bottle. We fill it into the fuel distribution system through the hose fitting of the vacuum brake booster. First we do this with the engine not running. Then we start it and add the mixture in small portions. This helps break down paraffin deposits. Under the influence of washing, paraffin deposits dissolve, enter the cylinder, burn and come out along with the exhaust gases. In this case, black smoke may come out of the exhaust pipe.
Exhaust manifold modification
Engine power is spent on overcoming the resistance of exhaust gases, which the piston removes from the combustion chamber. The modified manifold creates a vacuum before the valve opens and facilitates the removal of exhaust gases from the engine.
Cars produced from the factory are not able to fully reveal their dynamic characteristics, since they are aimed at the average user. Refining the car by moving from a carburetor to an injector and subsequent chip tuning allows you to improve power and environmental friendliness, as well as increase the reliability of the iron horse.
Recommendations for repairing the “seven” engine:
- It is necessary to prepare a place for engine repair work. To do this, you will need a pit and a crane beam, since the engine will need to be removed somehow. Otherwise, the repair will be doomed to failure.
- To gain access to the engine compartment, remove the hood.
- Disconnecting the ground and removing the battery.
- Carrying out work to open the radiator and expansion tank by unscrewing all the necessary bolts.
- Draining antifreeze.
- Draining engine oil from the engine crankcase.
- Removing the air filter and carburetor. These parts should be put aside as they will not be needed for work for a long time.
- Disconnecting a dangling hose from the fuel pump. To minimize the loss of gasoline, it is necessary to insert an M8 bolt into the gap.
- Removing the power unit.
- Disconnecting the pipes leading to the stove, coil and spark plug wires.