As they say, prepare the sleigh in the summer...))) From the moment of purchase there was a noise when the heater was turned on, a strange unpleasant squeal of the sliding bearing)) Because, although it is only the height of summer, winter is just around the corner))) I decided not to put it off and look at the Priorochka heater)
There will be little text, mostly a photo report. You can find a lot of information about this on the internet. It’s true that I didn’t immediately find out how to disassemble the stove and take out only half of it. Therefore, I will clarify this point. And if you’re too lazy to look))) Ask, I’ll answer with pleasure.
Lada Priora Hatchback KosmosS › Logbook › Replacing the heater motor with Panasonic air conditioner
I drove for the last month and suffered with my air conditioning.
The symptoms were bleak; the air conditioner either worked or didn’t.
In other words, the air conditioner worked properly, but the heater motor
He was obviously shirking his own work.
Especially when you drive on smooth Russian roads))
Symptoms: the motor refuses to operate in all positions of the rotation speed control handle.
At first there were floating speeds, later it completely died out, and from time to time it came to life on bumps.
I thought there was a bad contact in the connector. I got to the connector, everything is ok.
If you lightly hit the fan body, it comes to life and continues to work normally, which means the reason is in the motor itself, and not in the control unit or connector contacts
I was completely fed up with this and now I dared to change it...
It turns out this is very difficult to do and spare parts
you need the original. Panasonic ept)))
To be honest, it got me, it’s either the original regulator or the motor (((
Replacing the heater motor on a Lada Priora with Panasonic air conditioning
Replacing the heater motor
on Lada
Priora
with
air conditioning
.
Replacing a Priora stove motor with Panasonic air conditioning
Maybe this is the replacement
and not faithful, but frisky!
According to the repair manual, I had a very difficult job ahead of me.
with the removal of the vacuum and the halving of the entire stove together with the evaporator and subsequent
refilling with freon. In short, only with freon for 2 rubles is not enough work for 5-6 hours.
But I did it even simpler))
Naturally, my hand didn’t rise to shred and cut my car, but what can you do.
There is no way without this. Priora ept)) Thanks to AvtoVAZ for their foresight in the next repair. All that was necessary was to make the upper part of the heater in the area of the motor removable. But no, we are not looking for easy ways; the right way is to remove everything))
hacksaw blade . So that nothing would interfere with its removal. Cut only as shown in my photo so as not to disturb the rigidity of the entire casing. And it is this half that I cut off that only plays the role of an anther.
But this turned out to be not enough... The motor rested against the place where the engine mount was mounted on the glass. This was done specifically so that no one could remove the motor in this way without completely disassembling the heater. But we move on))
In general, we cut the fan casing itself, but so that the 2 motor fasteners are outside the cut (this will not affect its rigidity). You can see in the photo where to cut.
Well, now that the engine is in front of us, we see its Chinese origin and the savory price for it. But in terms of mounting, it is completely identical to the 10 Mu and Kalinovsky. It only differs in the location of the breather, but this is not a hindrance for us.
We put the motor in place and check everything works. This means we can assemble it.
I then coated the incision sites with Poxypol and everything was fine. The integrity was not compromised and the appearance was not damaged at all; it is not visible there.
But it made it easier for me to disassemble and maintain this unit in the future.
As they say, prepare the sleigh in the summer...))) From the moment of purchase there was a noise when the heater was turned on, a strange unpleasant squeal of the sliding bearing)) Because, although it is only the height of summer, winter is just around the corner))) I decided not to put it off and look at the Priorochka heater)
There will be little text, mostly a photo report. You can find a lot of information about this on the internet. It’s true that I didn’t immediately find out how to disassemble the stove and take out only half of it. Therefore, I will clarify this point. And if you’re too lazy to look))) Ask, I’ll answer with pleasure.
Replacing the stove fan on a Priora
Welcome! Heater fan - thanks to it, air is sent from the environment into the car interior, but it comes from the environment cold, and after it flies into the instrument panel, it passes through the heater radiator (heating radiator, it is correctly called) which can either be very heated , or be too cold (This depends on how the coolant has warmed up, if it has reached its cherished operating temperature of 95 degrees, aiming, then the radiator also heats up very well and all the air passing through it becomes just as warm), that is, simple In other words, a fan is needed for only one purpose: to suck in air from the environment and release it in a certain flow into the car’s interior, where it, after passing through the radiator of the stove, heats up well and comes out warm into the interior.
Note! To replace the stove fan, it will not take very much but also not very little time (Here it still depends on which way you go), strength and tools, the main ones being: All kinds of wrenches, from wrenches to wrenches with socket heads, in addition to this set of various types of screwdrivers you will need and, of course, a new stove fan itself!
Where is the heater fan located? It is located under the right side of the windshield if you look in the direction of travel of the car; a cabin filter is also located next to it, which periodically every 15,000 thousand kilometers, or better yet, even once every 10,000 thousand kilometers. It is recommended to change it to a new one, because when the filter becomes clogged, firstly (If it is a carbon filter) desorption occurs at a certain time (This is a process in which all the dirt that has accumulated on the filter comes out of it, and when it leaves it, it flies straight into the car interior, and the filter collects far from pleasant things, dust firstly and toxic exhaust gases secondly, we think this will be enough for you to start changing this filter on your car more often and not delay replacing it) , but this article is not talking about that, but about the location of the heater fan; for clarity, by the way, it is indicated in the photo below with a red arrow, and the blue one shows the same cabin filter that is periodically recommended to be changed on the car.
When should you change your furnace fan? If the fan completely fails, the stove stops working altogether (That is, when you turn the knob of the stove regulator, it will not turn on), if the fan partially fails (And partial failure may include breakage of the blades, the fan motor itself is acting up, etc. .d.) the stove will still work, but during its operation extraneous noises will be heard, such as rustling, humming, whistling, in addition to this, the stove may also work worse and weaker, these will be the most basic symptoms that will appear with partial or complete the stove fan fails.
Note! If the heater stops turning on, don’t run to the auto shop to get the fan right away, you’ll need to check everything first, and the first thing you need to check is the fuse that goes to the heater (the heater goes to fuse F9 with a current of 25 Amps), if it’s intact then most likely this fan has failed, because only the fuse and this fan are responsible for the operation of the stove (In some cases, there is also a problem with the wiring, and therefore the fan does not turn on) and they wanted to add something else about the low flow air, it can be not only due to the fan, but due to a very clogged cabin filter, for example!
Adjusting the heater damper
Sometimes the reason that the car interior remains cold is that the heater damper does not open, despite the fact that the gear motor is trying to turn it to the desired position. In most cases, the damper regulator, which is responsible for setting it to the desired position, is to blame.
This is possible on the heater dampers both with and without air conditioning due to a clogged cabin filter, which needs to be changed in a timely manner. Dust and leaves prevent the damper mechanism from opening normally.
Another reason is that the thin plastic of the damper simply warps at high temperatures in the heating line, and it stops reaching the desired position. As a result, the stove does not switch to different modes or the flows are distributed unevenly. Most often, the damper regulator remains in the “in the face” position, but the glass does not blow.
If the damper does not switch, you can remove the panel between the driver and passenger seats; it is located directly behind the central heater grilles. Sometimes you just need to change the seal to which it is pressed, or remove debris that has accumulated in it. After this, you need to check the heater damper in operation and you can assemble the panel.
If there are problems with the damper switching mechanism, you need to remove the plastic on the dashboard near the driver’s right foot. If the plastic damper is deformed, it can be replaced, but it is better to do this under warranty. In this case, repair of the stove damper on Priora is limited to treating the mechanism with VD aerosol lubricant. This can be done blindly, without removing the remaining parts of the dashboard, by feeling the switching mechanism with your hand.
After this, the damper is adjusted by simply switching it to different positions and controlling the movement with your hand under the plastic. In the vast majority of cases, this is enough for the stove to work normally again. After this, install the plastic dashboard in place and secure it with self-tapping screws.
Video: Priora stove. Diagnosis of heater malfunction
How to remove the Priora stove fan
If the Priora stove is noisy not due to debris in the impeller area, you will have to dismantle the latter in order to repair or replace it. Usually the cause of noise is a bearing failure, but sometimes collapsed impeller blades can make noise.
To dismantle the impeller you will need a Phillips and flathead screwdriver and a knife.
The procedure is as follows:
- remove the throttle assembly, but do not disconnect it, but move it to the side;
- remove the sound insulation of the engine shield and frill;
- bend up the end of the brake pedal mounting bracket;
- remove the clamp securing the fan wire block (the easiest way is to cut it);
- release the pad lock and disconnect it from the fan;
- disconnect the wires from the heater resistor;
- Unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the stove mount;
- disconnect the fan hose;
- unscrew the 3 screws holding the stove;
- remove the stove fan by prying it off the flange with a flat screwdriver.
All that remains is to check the operation of the fan and, if necessary, repair it or replace it with a new one.
Fan repair consists of eliminating play in its axis. To do this, you need to disassemble the fan and install an additional washer from below. During subsequent assembly, the rubbing parts should be lubricated with “Litol”.
If the stove makes noise when the engine is not warmed up, and after warming up the noise disappears, it is necessary to lubricate the motor rotor bushing. In this case, you can not dismantle the fan, but remove the frill, drill a thin hole in the area of the sliding bearing and inject oil into it. Then the hole must be closed with a plug.
When installing a fan, it should be positioned so that the pipe to which the ventilation pipe (air duct) is connected is located opposite the latter.
The steps for installing the fan are performed in the reverse order of removal. The clamp holding the wire block should be replaced with a new one.
Removing the windshield wiper trapezoid assembly with the motor on a Priora
The first step is to remove the wiper arms, as well as the rubber seal on the top of the hood. After this, using a thin knife, we pry off the decorative plugs, under which there are screws securing the frill.
Under these plugs we unscrew the screws securing the frill.
Now, again, on the left side, unscrew several screws securing the insulation to the frill, as shown in the photo below.
After which you can remove one part of the frill:
Also, loosen the clamp bolt on the thin hose of the expansion tank and remove it from the hole in the insulation:
The engine compartment insulation is also attached from below, which is not very clearly visible, but in the photo below this screw is quite clearly visible.
Now you can lift the expander up and move the insulation section to the side, as shown in the photo below.
Now you can begin to unscrew the mounting nuts and bolts of the motor with the trapezoid. Top left:
And top right:
But to get to the trapezoid mounting bolt in the bottom center, you must first unscrew and remove the expansion tank mounting bracket. Two mounting bolts are located on top, as can be seen in the photo:
Lada Priora Sedan “Monti ٩(●●)۶” › Logbook › Replacing the heater fan
In general, about a year ago I bought a new stove fan at the BBC store, also known as “avto49”. But it was so crooked and so new that after installing it, the last thing I wanted was to take everything back and go change it. And the defect was that the blades and rim of the fan themselves (which are plastic) were deformed and, accordingly, not centered, because of this strong vibrations occurred during rotation. At 1 (sometimes we were lucky at 2) speeds this did not appear, so we decided not to take it back.
I didn’t like the situation with the fan, I wanted to change it, but I didn’t get around to it before winter. Then the frosts came, I really didn’t want to get into the car (garage without heating =), so I had to suffer and warm up the interior at 1st speed =
Now that it’s warmer, I finally got around to it and below I’ll write a short epic of what happened and how it happened))
I couldn’t find any clear instructions on the Internet without looking at the gender of the muzzle, so I acted “according to circumstances,” i.e. I unscrewed everything that was in the way and tried to get it out)) By the way, a lot of leaves were clogged in the air intake, the stove was not blowing from all the holes, so I also bought a cabin filter and went to change it)
I replaced the stove fan on a Priora with a minimum of disassembly and without draining anything)). By the way, my car is 2007. no air conditioning.
I have a lot of foliage accumulated there. I saw on the drive that they attach a fine mesh to the air intake, but unfortunately I didn’t have one, so I couldn’t implement this idea.
First, as usual, I unscrewed the filter grille
I removed everything else, everything is extremely simple and clear
a lot of leaves...
the filter is old and new... hasn’t been changed for a long time...
After removing the filter and clearing it of leaves, disconnect the fan contacts.
I only needed to unscrew 4 bolts to get the fan out (I don’t know how the instructions say it, I didn’t read it too closely).
Then, using complex manipulations, applying various forces in completely different directions, we still managed to remove the part with the fan))
it came out a little, but it’s not possible to change the fan yet
but here it came out well, I replaced everything without any problems
old and new, for comparison))
And then I put everything back. To be honest, it turned out to be a little more difficult to install than to remove)) The process took a little longer, required more skill and silicone grease)) But nevertheless, everything worked out, fell into place and everything is great)
it's almost the end)
By the way, a long time ago I had an incident... while manipulating the hood, a tendril on the hood fastening clip broke off and it fell out =.
I went to the BBC, damn it, and bought exactly the same one... To celebrate, I tried to install it, but even then a fiasco awaited me... It didn’t want to lock in and fell out. As far as I understand, it turned out to be defective! So it's a bummer... Luckily it cost a penny, but it was a shame. I had to improve it. I stretched the antennae and inserted the knitting wire there and tightened them well. This is the result of this design))
for comparison with the old one
stood up as it should))
So be extremely careful when purchasing from this BBC, there are very defective and low-quality items... Try to check almost immediately! Good luck on the roads! =)
Issue price: 1,400 ₽
Important points
There are a couple of nuances, without mentioning which this article would be incomplete:
- The old gearbox should be removed very carefully. A long shank sticks out of it. If you remove the gearbox at an angle, you can damage the edge of the hole for the shank. If this happens, installing a new gearbox will not be so easy. Therefore, advice: when removing the gearbox, it should be pulled in a plane parallel to the floor;
- When buying a new gearbox at a car dealership, you should only buy the original VAZ one. Yes, its quality leaves much to be desired. But this is still better than buying a fake gearmotor, which the spare parts market is literally flooded with now. You can spot a fake by price. A normal gearmotor on a Priora costs 700 rubles and more. And a fake rarely costs more than 300 rubles.
So, replacing a heating gear motor is not a very difficult task and even a novice driver can do it. If a person has held a screwdriver in his hands at least once, he can handle it. All you need to do is follow the above recommendations exactly.
Lada Priora Hatchback KosmosS › Logbook › Replacing the heater motor with Panasonic air conditioner
I drove for the last month and suffered with my air conditioning.
The symptoms were bleak; the air conditioner either worked or didn’t.
In other words, the air conditioner worked properly, but the heater motor
He was obviously shirking his own work.
Especially when you drive on smooth Russian roads))
Symptoms: the motor refuses to operate in all positions of the rotation speed control handle.
At first there were floating speeds, later it completely died out, and from time to time it came to life on bumps.
I thought there was a bad contact in the connector. I got to the connector, everything is ok.
If you lightly hit the fan body, it comes to life and continues to work normally, which means the reason is in the motor itself, and not in the control unit or connector contacts
I was completely fed up with this and now I dared to change it...
It turns out this is very difficult to do and spare parts
you need the original. Panasonic ept)))
To be honest, it got me, it’s either the original regulator or the motor (((
Replacing the heater motor on a Lada Priora with Panasonic air conditioning
Replacing the heater motor
on Lada
Priora
with
air conditioning
.
Replacing a Priora stove motor with Panasonic air conditioning
Maybe this is the replacement
and not faithful, but frisky!
According to the repair manual, I had a very difficult job ahead of me.
with the removal of the vacuum and the halving of the entire stove together with the evaporator and subsequent
refilling with freon. In short, only with freon for 2 rubles is not enough work for 5-6 hours.
But I did it even simpler))
Naturally, my hand didn’t rise to shred and cut my car, but what can you do.
There is no way without this. Priora ept)) Thanks to AvtoVAZ for their foresight in the next repair. All that was necessary was to make the upper part of the heater in the area of the motor removable. But no, we are not looking for easy ways; the right way is to remove everything))
hacksaw blade . So that nothing would interfere with its removal. Cut only as shown in my photo so as not to disturb the rigidity of the entire casing. And it is this half that I cut off that only plays the role of an anther.
But this turned out to be not enough... The motor rested against the place where the engine mount was mounted on the glass. This was done specifically so that no one could remove the motor in this way without completely disassembling the heater. But we move on))
In general, we cut the fan casing itself, but so that the 2 motor fasteners are outside the cut (this will not affect its rigidity). You can see in the photo where to cut.
Well, now that the engine is in front of us, we see its Chinese origin and the savory price for it. But in terms of mounting, it is completely identical to the 10 Mu and Kalinovsky. It only differs in the location of the breather, but this is not a hindrance for us.
We put the motor in place and check everything works. This means we can assemble it.
I then coated the incision sites with Poxypol and everything was fine. The integrity was not compromised and the appearance was not damaged at all; it is not visible there.
But it made it easier for me to disassemble and maintain this unit in the future.
Instructions for replacing the stove radiator
If you need to change a heater resistor or heater radiator, it would be better to dismantle the system in any case.
To replace the device, follow these steps:
- The heating device itself is fixed with four or five nuts, depending on the configuration and year of manufacture of the car. There is nothing complicated about this, these nuts need to be unscrewed.
- The next step is the most difficult, you need to dismantle the system. The heater is removed from the engine compartment at a certain angle. It is advisable to have someone help you at this stage, since removing the device yourself can be problematic.
- When the device is removed, you will need to unscrew the three screws that directly secure the radiator itself.
- The element is simply removed from its installation location and replaced with a new one. Further assembly steps are carried out in reverse order.
Removing the heater fan Lada Priora (VAZ-2170)
We remove the heater fan if it fails.
We remove the throttle assembly and move it to the side without disconnecting the hoses from it (see “Removing the throttle assembly”). We remove the wind window trims (see “Removing the wind window trims”).
Remove the front panel upholstery (see “Removing the front panel upholstery”). Bend upward the end of the brake pedal bracket (see “Removing the micromotor-reducer of the heater damper”).
Unfasten or cut the clamp securing the fan motor wire block. Having released the latch...
...disconnect the wiring harness block from the electric motor block. Disconnect the wire block from the additional resistor (see.
“Removing the additional heater fan resistor”).
Having unscrewed the self-tapping screw and nuts securing the heater, we move it forward so that the fan can be removed (see “Removing the heater”).
Disconnect the electric motor ventilation hose from the pipe.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the fan. Using a screwdriver, pry off the fan flange...
...we remove the electric motor with the impeller from the heater housing. The fan flange is attached to the heater through rubber pads. To replace them, remove the plastic bushings and then remove the cushions from the holes in the fan flange.
Install the heater fan in reverse order.
When installing the fan, we orient it so that the electric motor pipe is opposite the electric motor ventilation hose.
Replacing the Priora stove motor
Replacement
heater fan for a VAZ
Priora
.
The operating parameters of this microchip can be changed. It regulates the settings of the ignition timing, the volume of fuel in the cylinders, exhaust control, and the level of toxicity of exhaust gases.
The operation can be carried out in two options:
- Integrating a new chip with your personal firmware (program);
- Configuring and modifying an existing chip. It is turned off, and after the procedure the chip is mounted back.
The best option is to give the car to a reliable service that has been verified by you personally. An experienced professional will perform the procedure accurately and with the least side effects on engine performance. If you are confident that you can do everything yourself or a professional is working with you, then you do not need to use a car service. But a few recommendations before performing the firmware will help you in the upcoming task.
The DIY modification procedure takes place using firmware equipment in several stages: the ECU is connected to a laptop or PC via a connection cable with a suitable connector. Software with modules and settings of the Lada car
.
Replacing the heater motor on a Prior without air conditioning.
That is, to carry out chip tuning, you must have:
- A working computer with software support;
- Connection cords to the Priora ECU;
- Loaders and adapters;
- Software and modules.
If the settings are performed correctly and competently, the performance characteristics of the engine will be optimized and fuel consumption will be reduced.
Replacing the stove motor
- The heater motor is part of the car's heating system. To identify a malfunction, it is necessary to diagnose the vehicle's heating system.
- Heater motor repair:
not done, only replacement - Replacement price includes spare part
: no - Replacement price includes additional work
: no
Cost of repair or replacement
Service | Cars | Crossovers | SUVs |
Replacing the stove motor | from 1500 ₽ | from 1500 ₽ | from 1500 ₽ |
- You can buy a new replacement heater motor for your car brand directly from our car service center. Or you can bring your spare parts and we will install them.
Main aspects of repair
If the fan does not work or the stove generally stops working, then you need to understand that the repair process is a rather labor-intensive procedure. Before you remove the heater radiator on a Priora or how to remove the fan, you need to do diagnostics. First, the functionality of the thermostat is checked. If the lines connected to the device are warm, then the part is working.
If the fan does not work, first of all you need to check its contacts. Replacing the stove fan does not always solve the problem, especially if it involves oxidation of the contacts. Sometimes simply cleaning the connector from the device is enough to solve the problem. You can always remove the heater fan, but the heater fan does not fail very often. If the stove blows only at maximum speed, the stove rotation speed resistor has burned out.
In addition, fuse F9 is responsible for the operation of the electrical components of the heating system, so if problems occur, it should also be checked and replaced if necessary. If the fuse often fails, there is no need to buy a more powerful part - first of all, you need to check the electrical circuit using a multimeter. The on-board network may be overloaded due to a short circuit (video author - Alexey Kalachev).
Some car owners on the Internet claim that poor performance of the heating system is due to the volume of coolant in the tank. Allegedly, by removing consumables from the expansion tank to a minimum, the device will release heat more quickly. We would not recommend doing this as it does not solve the problem. But if you leave the antifreeze level in the tank at a minimum, you need to check it regularly.
Sometimes the stove does not heat due to a breakdown of the valve designed to regulate cold and warm air flows. If the air flow is very weak, you need to check. What is the condition of the filter being used? The air filter element needs to be changed from time to time, remember this. When the heater is very noisy, the problem is usually a bad bearing. In any case, the bearing device needs to be replaced, since over time it can simply jam the fan, and this, you see, is much more serious than just noise in the cabin.
Sorry, there are no surveys available at this time.
How to change the heater radiator on a Lada Priora
In fact, every motorist who owns a Russian vehicle discovers a malfunction of the car’s heating unit specifically in winter. After all, only with the advent of severe cold does a person begin to think about how to avoid freezing while driving a car. Naturally, everyone uses a stove for this. But what should those for whom this same device does not work properly do? After all, only the heater is able to ensure that the normal temperature is maintained in the cabin, allowing for comfortable movement. In this article we will look at only one reason why the heating device stops working, we will learn about the principles of repairing and replacing the heater radiator installed in a Lada Priora car.
If the motorist is sure that the heater core needs to be replaced, it may take a lot of time to remove the faulty object, because most likely, in the process it will be necessary to change not just a blown fuse, but to carry out more serious repair work. True, one should not immediately despair because of one’s own ignorance; the material contains a carefully written annotation that helps everyone understand how to replace the stove radiator in a Priora with and without air conditioning.
Replacing the radiator of a heating unit in a Priora that is not equipped with air conditioning
Replacing the heater radiator on a Priora without air conditioning may make sense in this case if warm air does not begin to flow into the cabin, while the heater itself is working. If, in addition to the above dilemma, there is also a water leak from under the Priora stove, the motorist will have to urgently remove the poorly functioning unit in order to solder the latter. From time to time, repairs are impractical and you have to replace the old device with a new one.
So, first, you need to start by removing the negative terminal from the battery. The fact is that the issue here is not only about the safety of the master himself, but also about additional insurance, which allows him to avoid several nasty surprises that, if handled carelessly, can appear not only with wiring, but also with electrical equipment.
If you are replacing the heater radiator on a Priora without air conditioning, after de-energizing the system, you can begin to dismantle the windshield trim. At the same time, you should also remove the wiper arms, which can cause further discomfort during operation. After that, you should free the unit from all plastic tubes, through which the liquid located in the windshield washer reservoir goes directly to the nozzles. Only after all the above steps have been carried out will it be possible to remove the decorative trim located on the sides of the windshield. In fact, performing such a manipulation is simple - just get rid of 7 screws.
Replacing the heater radiator on a Priora can only be done after removing the hood seal. Before dismantling, it should be taken into account that there is a screw in the middle of the lining that tightens both halves of the structure. Using a screwdriver or any knife, you can carefully lift the plugs (this element serves as the “cover” of the screw) and unscrew them.
After which you can begin to remove the sound insulation, which is located in the unit compartment. To do everything well, you will have to unscrew the screws and remove the pads (there is no clear rule about which of them to remove first: left or right). Then you should get rid of the pipes that go directly to the radiator. A person who wants to figure out how to get to the heater radiator on a Priora must loosen the clamps holding the structure itself.
After which you can remove from the connectors all the wires going specifically to the stove. You can remove them using two keys, namely, the first “10”, and the other “8”. After unscrewing all four nuts, move the wiring harness to the side, which is held in place by the holder. The “13” key will help to dismantle the bracket located on the brake pedal. Only then can you begin to remove the heater radiator on a Priora that does not have air conditioning. An ordinary Phillips screwdriver will help to dismantle the device, allowing you to remove 3 screws. All the rest of the work consists of installing a new unit and reassembling the system in the reverse order of the described actions.
Removing the heater fan on a Priora is difficult, but possible.
Remove the right side of the engine compartment bulkhead trim. The heater fan motor is visible, but you can’t get to it: the outer plastic casing of the air conditioning unit is in the way and can only be removed by dismantling the entire air conditioning unit assembly (draining the antifreeze, removing the vacuum brake booster, draining freon from the air conditioning system, etc.).
We make a cut on this casing in the indicated place, which will make it possible to remove the right side of the casing and get to the heater fan
We remove the plastic casing, unscrew the 3 screws that hold the heater fan, but in order to pull it out, 1 cm is not enough - it rests on the fastener of the upper engine mount. But the fan motor casing prevents you from pulling it up. This casing cannot be removed, the air conditioner pipes are in the way - this is how AvtoVAZ designers design it
We cut the fan motor casing, but so that the 2 self-tapping screws for fastening the motor are outside the cut (the cut lines are shown in red in the photo). The cut-off part does not violate the integrity of the structure, because attached to 2 self-tapping screws and a plastic guide, which provides the necessary structural rigidity after reassembly
Unscrew 2 screws and remove the cut part
The heater motor is in our hands.
We assemble in the reverse order
How to replace the gearmotor on a Priora?
Note. There are many different instructions on the Internet on how to do this work easier. Some argue that to replace the gearmotor you do not need to remove the reservoir and wiper trapezoid, others argue that you only need to remove the reservoir. This method involves the complete dismantling of all parts that limit access to the stove gear motor.
This video is a clear example of how you can replace a gear motor without removing anything.
1. First of all, you need to open the hood and remove the wipers. Then you should remove the frill (plastic cover).
2. Next, you need to unscrew the three screws that secure the trim (sound insulation) of the engine compartment.
3. After this, disconnect the hose that passes through the trim of the engine compartment to the expansion tank. To do this, loosen the clamp using a screwdriver.
4. When the pipe is disconnected, you can remove the tank by pulling it up and move it to the side so that it is not in the way.
5. Now you can remove the engine compartment trim. To do this, gently pull it up.
6. The next step is to dismantle the expansion tank mounting bracket. To remove it you will need to unscrew the two mounting bolts marked in the photo.
7. Now it’s time to dismantle the wiper motor, as well as the trapezoid; to do this, unscrew one bolt and two nuts marked in the photo.
8. After all the above steps have been completed, we can easily remove the heater gear motor. To do this, you only need to unscrew the three bolts that secure it.
9. After the fastening bolts are unscrewed, you can safely remove the heater gear motor. Turn off the power and replace the faulty unit with a new one.
This completes the replacement process. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Before starting assembly, check the new gear motor for serviceability.
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I understand that the topic is old, but for me it is relevant. My motor howls and squeals... I will definitely change it. Just wondering, did it really blow better after the replacement or is it an illusion? (Of course, I will also replace the filter)
I felt the difference. The whistle disappeared - the engine is new! And the “fresh” engine turns more vigorously and cheerfully!
The main thing is not to be afraid and do it if you have the desire and time. The same people as us work at the service. My motto: “No one can break it better than me.” With these words I begin any repair
I made it easier by removing the dirt catcher and making it more convenient to change it. Moreover, there are different motors and I had to buy them by removing the old one. At the same time, for the first time I took a newer model which began to hum within a month. I came and exchanged it for the same one as it was, now I’ve been driving quietly for almost half a year, and the time it took to replace it was half an hour)
and the price difference is big, how much does it cost?
Like Priorovsky 2000r and the old model like mine is 1500r
Signs and causes of gear motor failure
There are two signs of a gearmotor failure on a Priora. Here they are:
- when starting the heater, a loud grinding or knocking noise is heard from under the dashboard, which becomes louder as the heating fan speed increases;
- inability to adjust the oven temperature. The heater blows either only hot air or only cold air. The position of the temperature regulator on the dashboard does not matter in this case.
All of the above happens for very specific reasons. Here are the most common of them:
- one or more teeth on one of the gear motor gears has broken. The tooth fragments rotate together with the damaged gear and hit the plastic housing of the gearbox from the inside. As a result, a characteristic dull rattle or knock occurs, which is clearly audible in the cabin;
The gears in the Priora gearmotor are made of very fragile plastic and break quickly
A burnt-out gear motor can also cause malfunctions in the Priora heater.
Operating principle of the stove
Heater control panel on Priora
The air conditioning system may stop blowing for various reasons. If the heater blows cold air, and the car is without air conditioning, the driver will have to disassemble and replace some elements. This could be a malfunctioning control regulator, fan, heater valve, or other heating system component. In any case, first, let's understand the principle of operation.
The warm air flow is forced onto the device's radiator thanks to the fan. The speed of the latter varies depending on the temperature inside the car. The ratio of warm and cold air flows is regulated thanks to the valve. The air flow enters directly into the car interior through a filter element designed to clean the air. In the cabin, the car owner already chooses how the airflow will be carried out by adjusting the position of the dampers on the center console.
The Priora heater control unit is the main structural part; it is its regulator that is controlled by the driver. The stove control unit, by adjusting and analyzing all the necessary parameters, adjusts the stove motor so that it regulates the speed of the fan, as well as the position of the air damper.
Heating device radiator
Life hack: gear motor and other components of the Priora car heater
If the windshield of a Lada Priora car is fogged up and looks as if it was smeared with greasy hands after eating pirazhki - driver, beware, your heater is leaking!
Maintaining normal temperature in the cabin at different times of the year is necessary in order to feel comfortable behind the wheel. In winter, the stove on the Priora saves you from freezing, which provides the heat a person needs. But you need to take care of it and prepare it for winter in the summer, because being left without heating in winter is not the greatest pleasure. The sore spots in the system that break down more often than others are the gear motor and the heater damper. Priora is a warm car - the original DAAZ is very good, it warms, and is warm in winter, because its radiator has the correct structure and fluid circulates inside. If you install the Chinese Luzar, you will freeze at -20 - I checked it personally. I put this luzar on, then took it off. The heater radiator is available for cars with and without air conditioning. The structure of the node is slightly different. The stove block of the Priora car is indicated below in the figure. As you can see, in addition to the block, the entire assembly consists of many spare parts. On the Priora, the stove has a conventional design - having taken the time to diagnose, you need to completely check the entire system in order to make an “investment” in the future - in winter you will need to look for a heated garage for repairs. If the Priora blows cold air or does not heat well, these are signs that something is wrong inside, and this malfunction needs to be sorted out.
Carrying out diagnostics and repairs: where to start
Let's deal with the most difficult case when the stove does not start.
First, you need to check the engine cooling system, because malfunctions may be associated with it. Check the amount of fluid in the expansion tank. Its level should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If you constantly add fluid to the reservoir, it is necessary to eliminate the leak in the cooling system. Check the pipes and tighten the clamps. In winter, you can only fill in a minimum amount of liquid, so it will heat up faster and warm air will flow into the cabin. Check fluid circulation. It may be insufficient if the pump breaks down or the cooling system is clogged. The thermostat is checked with the engine warmed up to 75 degrees. If the radiator pipe is cold when the engine is hot, then the liquid circulates in a small circle. Replacing the thermostat can help with this breakdown. If the heater works, but blows cold, then the problem may be the formation of an air lock in the engine cooling system.
If the fan works, but pumps air very poorly or weakly, then start diagnosing by checking the cabin filter. It may be contaminated, resulting in insufficient air in the system. Failure is usually preceded by the appearance of an unpleasant smell of dust.
If there is no air flow, you must:
- Check the 25 A fuse.
- If the fuse is intact, then check the fan itself. It may have malfunctioned. This element cannot be repaired, only changed entirely. It also changes when a whistle or buzz appears.
- Sometimes there may be no air flow at only one of the speeds, for example, the first three or fourth. In this case, replace the resistor, it is the one that supplies the resistance incorrectly and stops the fan from working.
- Check the heater control unit. If all other parts are working, then the problem may be in it or in the temperature sensor located in the cabin.
Another common problem is when the fan blows cold air instead of warm air. The radiator or damper is to blame for this failure. If the latter opens completely, then look for a problem in the radiator.
If you decide to replace or install an air conditioner, then it is best to purchase it from the Panasonic brand. Unlike another popular brand, Halla, it is quieter. In terms of service life, the air conditioners of these companies are approximately the same, although many car enthusiasts consider Panasonic less reliable. They differ in appearance. If you want to install the same model that was on your car, pay attention to the upper heating line. At Panasonic it is a flexible hose.
Installing a Priora interior fan
The catalog number of the electric heater fan of the Priora is 2111-8118020. When installing the fan, turn it so that its branch pipe is opposite the motor ventilation hose. The rest of the assembly is done in reverse order.
By the way, if after replacing the heater fan there is poor air flow into the cabin, then try replacing the cabin filter.
Replacing the gearmotor
If the damper does not work, hot or cold air blows from the heater, and the ability to adjust it is lost. In such a situation, the cabin heater gearmotor must be replaced.
Replacing the damper on a Priora begins with raising the hood and removing the wipers. To do this, remove the plastic caps and unscrew the nuts with a 14 wrench, after which they are easily removed. Next, the left and right frills are dismantled by removing the rubber pad, protective plastic caps and unscrewing six screws. Then the plastic soundproofing of the engine compartment is removed, the cooling system hose passing through it is carefully disconnected from the expansion tank, then the tank itself is removed. To avoid draining the coolant, the holes in it must be plugged.
To inspect the heater gear motor, remove the expansion tank mounting bracket by unscrewing two bolts under the wing and removing the protection above the left front wheel. After this, the wiper motor and trapezoid are dismantled.
Now the unit is being dismantled; first you need to carefully disconnect the heater damper sensor and the power supply contacts. After this, install and check the new spare part, reassemble everything in the reverse order, and the replacement of the stove gear motor is completed.
Video: Replacing the gearmotor of the Lada Priora stove (Lada Priora)
Gearmotor repair
In most cases, the extraneous sounds produced by the heater damper drive on a Priora are associated with cracking of the plastic gear. When its teeth are cut off, the mechanism stops working normally. Replacing it is quite difficult, but possible. After dismantling the gearbox, release the compressed plastic cover and bend it, then carefully remove it.
After carefully inspecting the mechanism, determine which gears are faulty and install new ones. Determine the condition of the commutator, bearings and brushes of the mechanism. Lubricate the bearings with silicone grease, which does not harm other structural elements. If after assembly the system functions normally, replacing the heater gear motor will not be necessary.
Replacement of micromotor gearbox
To replace an element, you will need to perform several not particularly complex activities. Therefore, it is not at all necessary to go to a service station and pay a lot of money for their services.
- First of all, remove the frill.
- Next, the vacuum brake booster is dismantled.
- After this, you still need to remove the pedal assembly.
- Now we begin to dismantle the old micro-gearbox along with the plastic component.
- A new micromotor gearbox should be installed in place of the damper sector. There you will see a similar square.
Location of the device
Practice shows that replacing a micro-gearbox does not require special skills, a lot of time or excessive effort. However, never forget to be careful.
But in order to install the damper of your micro-geared motor, you will need to invite an assistant.
- First, the contacts are connected to the new micro-gearbox, that is, the motor.
- By turning the damper counterclockwise, you turn on the cold air supply.
- Turn on the ignition and turn the heater control system (SAUO) sensor to the position directly opposite the blue dot of the regulator.
- Or you can do the opposite, that is, check the micro-gear motor by installing the sensor opposite the red dot, and turn the damper all the way clockwise.
- The micro-gearbox rotates slightly more than required, so for proper installation it is recommended to use a special lubricant for the square.
- Install the motor so that the holes for the screws match.
- Now you need the help of your friend, since his task will be to turn the temperature regulator and at the same time press the motor inward.
- If the squares match, the replacement of the micromotor reducer can be considered successful. Now the air should flow to the desired temperature inside the cabin.
- Don't worry if the square doesn't go the full length of the flap you're using. This is normal when the gear motor goes about a third of the way. This installation will not affect the performance of the system in any way.
- Now all that remains is to return the screws to their place and twist the micro-gearbox several times - from the blue mark to the red one, and in the reverse order.
- These manipulations will allow the stove to remember what operating range the new gearbox has. Therefore, there will be no problems with its performance in the future.
If everything is done carefully and in accordance with the instructions, when you turn the damper, the micromotor reducer of your stove will not move to the required position. By turning on the device in mode with the “A” icon, control and adjustment will be carried out automatically - with an error of no more than 2 degrees.
Installation
To install the gearmotor, you will need a certain set of tools, which include:
- Open-end wrench 10 millimeters;
- Crosshead screwdriver;
- Spanners.
Don't worry if you're new to doing car repairs yourself. There is nothing complicated about replacing a gearmotor.
- Remove the windshield wipers from the fuse to gain access to the device. To do this, you need to dismantle the contact nut and then release the frill.
- You will have access to the screws.
- Two nuts are unscrewed on the sides of the frill, and then the rubber seal is removed from the electric motor compartment of the gearbox.
- Disconnect the damper jabot pipeline by disconnecting it.
- Remove the screws that hold the gearbox thermal radiators.
- The motor is located on the left in the damper gear box, right next to the brake booster.
- Next, you need to unscrew the lower mounting screw and remove the electric motor.
- The damper assembly should be carried out strictly in the reverse order. Moreover, do this only after the gearmotor has been installed.