406 engine injector starts and stalls reason

Gas 3110. ZMZ 406 (injector). Doesn't hold idle, starts normally, if you press the pedal it's also OK. The fuel pump is humming, you can hear how good it is humming. Compression is 12 points, all sensors have been checked and replaced, the injectors have also been checked and blown out. The camshafts are honestly as they should be, and needless to say, they have jumped a tooth. What is the reason? The idle speed sensor works. The damper also seems to say everything. Where should I go? We haven't looked at the phase sensor yet. And could this be due to the pump? Should it make a loud noise?

Comments 60

And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(

remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!

So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?

There may be several reasons why the car engine stalls when you press the gas after idling. But the good news is that each reason that the engine stalls when you press the gas has its own conditions, additional symptoms, so each of these reasons is not difficult to determine. Therefore, it is important to understand the situation when this problem occurs. Therefore, let's take it in order, in order of prevalence, of the reasons for the engine stopping while trying to start!

The engine stalls when you press the gas only in the morning or in humid weather. Cause: Moisture on the distributor cap

If the problem occurs only in the morning, when the engine is still cold, or in rainy or cloudy weather, then this means that the cause is moisture on the ignition distributor cap. This happens because at night, especially when it rains, condensation occurs inside the distributor cap. And the shape of the ignition distributor cap of your car model may be such that it allows the electric current inside the distributor to misfire, as a result of which the electricity simply does not reach the spark plugs.

The problem is that there may not be a misfire at idle, but when you press the gas pedal, the distributor works much faster, passing even more current through itself, which in a humid environment only increases the likelihood of a misfire and, as a result, the engine will fail. due to lack of spark, it may stall as soon as you accelerate.

Checking for this reason is quite simple - just pay attention to whether the problem recurs when the engine is warm, in dry weather. If such weather is not observed, and weather forecasters give rather pessimistic forecasts, then try putting the car in the garage and check after a long parking period whether the engine stalls when you press the gas pedal in these conditions.

Previously, the engine rarely stalled when pressing the gas, but now it is becoming more common. Cause: Vacuum leak from the fuel system

When the engine stops when you press the gas gradually become more frequent and do not depend on the weather or time of day, then we can talk about problems with the fuel system. First of all, there is a vacuum leak. The problem of vacuum leaks usually begins with rare occurrences, and then the engine stalls more often due to deterioration of pressure inside the engine. When determining how much fuel an engine should receive at a given time, one of the key factors is the vacuum created in the fuel system. But if there is a vacuum leak in the fuel system, this will greatly affect the concentration of the air-fuel mixture. This will lead to the fact that the engine may stall just when you “give gas”.

The car starts and immediately stalls: causes, solutions

> Engine

Even a car that is well and regularly maintained may not work correctly. Usually this is due to worn-out systems, low-quality technical fluids, etc. But there are other problems due to which the car starts well and immediately stalls.

Main reasons

The car may stall after starting the engine for several reasons, both when it is cold when first starting, or when it is hot. The problem manifests itself on injection and diesel units, for which there are quite a few reasons: from lack of fuel to more complex malfunctions associated with the fuel line or even the engine.

It is necessary to identify as early as possible the reason that the engine starts and immediately stalls. Otherwise, the car will not be able to be used.

Attention! An unexplained plug may indicate more complex failures. They need to be eliminated quickly so that repairs do not become more complex and costly.

When cold the engine starts and immediately stalls.

There are several simple reasons why a car may stall immediately after the engine starts:

  1. Running out of fuel is a simple reason, but because of this it is often overlooked. During long breaks in operation, fuel condensate may drain from the walls of the tank, with which the car can start. There is not enough gasoline for further operation, which is why the car stalls.
  2. Bad diesel or gasoline - if the fuel was purchased at dubious gas stations, the composition contains additives, even water. They have a bad effect on the fuel system and its filters. Additional information! In diesel engines, paraffin added to the diesel composition can harden. Its particles clog the filter that cleans the fuel, causing the pressure on the fuel line to drop.
  3. Car alarms - advanced security systems can not only trigger when installed in a car, block the steering wheel locks, but also prevent the engine from running. If such a system is installed, you should check its deactivation.
  4. No vacuum - This problem occurs in carburetor cars if there is air in any part of the fuel supply. This could be the carburetor itself, the intake manifold, or the vacuum hose. The mixture of fuel and air has completely different proportions, which is why the engine cannot operate normally.
  5. Low idle speed is a common problem in carburetor cars, because in injection cars the speed is adjusted automatically. You will need to manually adjust the idle speed with the carburetor. It can correct the situation, since the engine will consume a normal amount of gasoline.

These are the main reasons why there are problems with starting cars, including carburetor-type ones. But there are still injection machines that require consideration.

The engine starts and the injector immediately stalls

An injector is a part that injects fuel into the engine and is sensitive to voltage changes. There are a number of reasons why an injector stalls:

  • problems with the fuel system: the fuel pump is checked. This is easy to do; you need to turn on the ignition; if you hear a buzzing sound, the pump is working. If there are no sounds, you need to check whether voltage is supplied to it;
  • dirty throttle: if the idle air control is contaminated with carbon deposits, air passes through it less easily, which means the engine operates in abnormal mode. A breakdown of the throttle valve also plays a role: if it is closed, no air enters the engine;
  • Ignition system problem: If the fuel system and air supply are operating as normal, check for sparking. The spark plugs are being studied, they should be unscrewed, cleaned, and checked for a spark. The easiest way is to attach an armored wire to the spark plug and crank the crankshaft with the starter. Damaged wires may be to blame for the situation; they can be checked with a tester and a megger. If they are not there, you should start the engine in the dark. If part of the system is damaged, high-voltage discharges can be seen on the coils, conductors and tips;
  • breakdowns of sensors and ECUs: electronic engine management systems control all motor power elements using information coming from the sensors. If any of them are damaged, the power unit may not only stall, but also refuse to start. If there are problems with the ECU, you can find out about them by the “Check Engine” indicator on the dashboard. To find a fault, read errors using a scanner;
  • “out of sync” of the valves: the valve timing in the car could be out of sync, for example, due to the timing belt stretching or being misaligned. Aligning the shafts to the marks or replacing the belt with a new one will help.

After starting, the engine stalls immediately: why does this happen?

406 engine injector starts and stalls reason

During the operation of a car, a common situation is that after turning the ignition key, the car starts, the engine starts to work and stalls after a few seconds. As a rule, 3-5 seconds pass from the moment of starting to stopping the internal combustion engine. Before the engine stops completely, engine vibrations are also noticeable, the power unit shakes and operates very unstable.

This happens as a result of a decrease in speed, the resonance effect of a rotating crankshaft, etc. When you try to start the engine again, the engine may no longer start, or the situation described above may repeat again.

The reasons for this problem vary. The main thing is that if the car starts and stalls, this indicates that in-depth diagnostics are needed. Next we will talk about what to do in such a situation, as well as how to find the reason why the engine stalls after starting.

The engine starts and stalls: troubleshooting

So, if a similar problem appears, then it is necessary to take into account a number of features. First of all, the operation of the internal combustion engine after startup will be influenced by the following factors:

At the same time, CPG malfunctions, low compression, significantly misaligned timing and other nuances are taken into account in this case, but do not come to the fore. The fact is that if there are serious problems, the power unit will most likely not start even for a short time.

With that said, you should first start by checking the main possible causes:

  • Quite often, malfunctions in the operation of the alarm system and the anti-theft system can cause the engine to fail to operate after starting. In other words, the immobilizer does not turn off and continues to block the start of the internal combustion engine, which is its main function to prevent vehicle theft. If the alarm blocks the engine, then you need to check the operation of all elements, try to reset the error, turn off the anti-theft system, etc.
  • Problems with the IAC and idle air valve often arise due to contamination of these elements. You should also pay attention to the cleanliness of the throttle valve. As for the crankshaft sensor, incorrect data that it transmits to the ECU can cause the engine to stall immediately after starting.
  • Poor quality fuels and lubricants can also cause problems. As a rule, problems begin in cases where low-grade fuel was filled or the engine uses motor oil that does not meet the recommendations/has lost its properties.
  • A faulty fuel pump, air leaks in the fuel line, the formation of air pockets and dirty fuel filters do not allow creating the required pressure in the power system or supplying fuel in the required volume.
  • The air filter and its contamination leads to the fact that the working mixture is significantly over-rich. In other words, the engine does not have enough air to burn fuel, and the spark plugs flood.
  • Problems with ECM sensors (EGR sensor, oxygen sensor, DPKV, etc.) can lead to both unstable engine operation at idle and a complete engine stop after starting.

Error codes

When the electrical circuit of the car has become clear, you can consider the errors of the electronic engine control unit, which will help to accurately recognize the malfunction, as well as eliminate them in a timely manner.

Designation of fault codes

  • 1 P0016 Temporary inconsistency (phase shift) of the camshaft and crankshaft
  • 2 P0031 Short circuit of the oxygen sensor heater circuit
  • 3 P0032 Open circuit of the oxygen sensor heater
  • 4 P0068 Throttle position sensor error (mismatch with absolute pressure sensor)
  • 5 P2074 Absolute pressure sensor error (mismatch with throttle position sensor)
  • 6 P0071 Ambient temperature sensor error (mismatch with other sensors)
  • 7 P0072 Short circuit of the ambient temperature sensor circuit
  • 8 P0073 Open circuit of the ambient temperature sensor
  • 9 P0107 Short circuit of the pressure sensor circuit
  • 10 P0108 Pressure sensor circuit open
  • 11 P0111 Intake air temperature sensor error
  • 12 P0112 Short circuit of the intake air temperature sensor circuit
  • 13 P0113 Open air temperature sensor circuit
  • 14 P0116 The performance characteristics of the coolant temperature sensor are not normal
  • 15 P0117 Short circuit of the coolant temperature sensor circuit
  • 16 P0118 Open circuit of the coolant temperature sensor
  • 17 P0122 Short circuit of the throttle position sensor circuit
  • 18 P0123 Open circuit of the throttle position sensor
  • 19 P0125 Insufficient cooling temperature for fuel control feedback
  • 20 P0128 Thermostat malfunction
  • 21 P0129 Incorrect reading of the absolute pressure sensor when the ignition is turned off
  • 22 P0131 Short circuit of the oxygen sensor circuit
  • 23 P0132 Open circuit of the oxygen sensor
  • 24 P0133 Slow response of the oxygen sensor to changes in the composition of the mixture
  • 25 P0135 Oxygen sensor heater performance is not normal
  • 26 U0155 No messages on the data bus
  • 27 P0171 Poor fuel mixture (no feedback from the oxygen sensor)
  • 28 P0172 Rich fuel mixture (no feedback from oxygen sensor)
  • 29 P0201 Open circuit of injector No. 1
  • 30 P0202 Open circuit of injector No. 2
  • 31 P0203 Open circuit of injector No. 3
  • 32 P0204 Open circuit of injector No. 4
  • 33 P0300 Missing working process on all cylinders
  • 34 P0301 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 1
  • 35 P0302 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 2
  • 36 P0303 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 3
  • 37 P0304 Missing stroke of cylinder No. 4
  • 38 P0315 Incorrect signal from the crankshaft sensor
  • 39 P0325 Knock sensor circuit
  • 40 P0335 Open circuit of the crankshaft position sensor
  • 41 P0339 Missing signal pulses from the crankshaft position sensor
  • 42 P0340 Open circuit of the camshaft position sensor
  • 43 P0344 Missing signal pulses from the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor
  • 44 P0443 Open circuit of the canister purge valve
  • 45 P0480 Fan control relay circuit open
  • 46 P0501 Performance characteristics of the vehicle speed sensor signal are normal
  • 47 P0506 Idle speed higher than specified
  • 48 P0507 Idle speed below specified
  • 49 P0508 Open circuit of the idle speed regulator
  • 50 P0509 Short circuit of the idle regulator circuit
  • 51 P0516 Open circuit of the battery temperature sensor
  • 52 P0517 Low signal level of battery temperature sensor
  • 53 P0532 Low signal level of the air conditioner pressure sensor
  • 54 P0533 Open air conditioner pressure sensor circuit
  • 55 P0562 Low battery voltage
  • 56 P0563 Battery voltage high
  • 57 P0600 Malfunctions of the internal circuits of the control unit
  • 58 P0601 Internal memory checksum error
  • 59 P0622 Malfunction of the generator excitation winding circuit
  • 60 P0627 Open circuit of the fuel pump relay
  • 61 P0630 VIN is not programmed into the control unit
  • 62 P0632 Odometer is not programmed in the control unit
  • 63 P0645 Open circuit of the compressor clutch relay
  • 64 P0685 Main relay circuit open
  • 65 P0688 Open circuit of main relay contacts
  • 66 P1115 Temperature sensor mismatch
  • 67 P1603 Internal error CU transmission of dual-port RAM
  • 68 P1604 Internal error CU writing / reading dual-port RAM
  • 69 P1607 Counts incorrectly in “-”
  • 70 P2610 Counts incorrectly in “+”
  • 71 P1696 Error in the control unit prohibiting writing to the EEPROM
  • 72 P1697 Error control unit incomplete programming
  • 73 P2096 Low fuel mixture signal
  • 74 P2097 Rich fuel mixture signal
  • 75 P2302 Insufficient ionization of the secondary circuit of ignition coil No. 1
  • 76 P2305 Insufficient ionization of the secondary circuit of ignition coil No. 2
  • 77 P2503 Low output level of the charging system

Battery problems

If the Gazelle does not start, then you should start searching for the impossibility of starting the engine with the battery. If it is insufficiently charged, the starter does not have enough energy to turn the crankshaft. In this case, a significant drop in the on-board network voltage occurs. The traction relay starts to click, but the engine cannot start.

Read more: Find out where a car goes by its license plate number

The situation with starting the engine with a discharged or old battery is aggravated in cold weather. There are two reasons for this:

  • engine oil thickens in the cold and it becomes more difficult for the starter to crank the crankshaft, which causes increased starting current and greater battery energy consumption;
  • When it's cold, the chemical reactions of the battery slow down and the battery becomes able to deliver less charge.

In winter, both of the above reasons overlap each other. Starting becomes especially difficult when cold. Under unfavorable conditions, the car may completely refuse to start.

With a discharged battery, many car owners start their Gazelle only with a pusher, but there are other ways, the main ones being:

  • start using ROM;
  • “lighting up” from another vehicle;
  • charging the original battery with a nominal or increased current and then starting the power unit.

A situation with a discharged battery does not require special attention from the car owner if it occurs only once. It is enough to recharge the battery and you can continue to operate the machine as before. If the battery dies often, then it is necessary to diagnose it. Based on its results, a decision is made on the method and feasibility of restoration work. In some cases, it is more rational to purchase a new battery.

If the battery shows full serviceability, but dies in a short period of time, then the on-board network must be checked. It may contain short circuits and high leakage currents. If they are identified, you should not delay troubleshooting. Prompt resolution of problems will eliminate the risk of a car fire.

The presence of through cracks and other similar defects leads to the loss of part of the electrolyte. The battery's ability to deliver starting current and energy is significantly reduced. To diagnose the problem, just carefully inspect the case. If any damage is detected, the car owner is faced with a choice between carrying out repairs or purchasing a new power source.

Adjustment

Fuel consumption directly depends on the adjustment, even if the carburetor is absolutely working.


There is only one external adjustment in the device - idle speed. How to do it correctly:

  • We start the engine and warm it up to a hot state, then perform adjustments at idle speed;
  • We unscrew the quantity screw (a large screw with a spring) and the quality screw until the engine reaches maximum speed;
  • By evenly tightening both screws, we find the position when the engine starts to work with minimal interruptions;
  • Using the quantity screw we set the speed to a slightly higher speed, at this point using the quality screw we achieve stable operation of the motor, but at the same time we need to try to keep the quality screw unscrewed to a minimum (as far as possible);
  • Having adjusted the quality, turn the quantity screw until the optimal idle speed is obtained (700-750 rpm).

If there are malfunctions in the carburetor or engine that affect the stability of idle speed, there is no point in adjusting the idle speed - you must first fix the problem.

If you remove the carburetor housing cover, you can adjust the gasoline level in the float chamber. Adjustment is made by bending the tongue on the float.

Carburetor malfunctions

What to do if the carburetor Gazelle begins to consume fuel significantly more than normal?

This is what a Solex 21073 carburetor looks like for a Gazelle

The following malfunctions occurred:

Clogged jets

Moreover (you should pay attention), it was not the fuel jets of the main metering system that became clogged in the first place, as everyone usually assumed, but the idle channels under the adjusting screws. It’s interesting - the XX becomes clogged, but the engine does not work normally at medium speeds, and at the same time there is a high fuel consumption; The accelerator pump diaphragm breaks or the accelerator nozzle becomes clogged

The accelerator pump stops working. As a result, under hard throttle a dip occurs;

Accelerator pump diaphragm for Solex carburetor

There are still all sorts of problems with the carb, but the above-mentioned “sores” are more common. By the way, any malfunction of the carburetor invariably leads to an increase in fuel consumption, which is why this device causes a lot of headaches for Gazelle car owners.

Technical characteristics and connection diagram

Characteristics of the idle air regulator used in Gazelles, UAZs and Volgas with 406 series engines:

  • throughput: 60 kg/h;
  • winding control channel frequency: 125 Hz;
  • power supply: 6–18 V;
  • induction of the windings of the motor controlling the valve with a power supply of 100Hz: ~12(±2) MHz;
  • active resistance per winding: ~12(±1) Ohm;
  • pulse duty cycle depth: up to 100%;
  • theoretical number of movable curtain positions: 240.

The device is connected to the engine electronic systems according to the following diagram:

connection diagram

The middle terminal of the contact connector is common. The first is used to power the opening winding, the third controls the closing of the valve.

Common Causes

The Gazelle 405 injector does not start for various reasons. There could be a hundred of them, or even more, since there are simply unrealistically many details. However, injectors and spark plugs

. If the latter can be bought at any auto parts store, and even a less experienced driver can replace them, then problems may arise with the former.

The fact is that it is very difficult to determine that in such a situation in the Gazelle 405 it was the injectors that broke

They are often the last thing thought of.

, so a lot of time is lost diagnosing the breakdown. But there is another option - problems with the injector. Fortunately, it doesn’t always need to be repaired; sometimes all you need to do is wash the part and the car will start. In any case, you will be very lucky if the breakdown is not serious, since the Gazelle 405 can take forever to repair and still not understand the reasons for the breakdown.

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Some people, when the Gazelle 405 does not start, immediately change the water cooling temperature sensor. What exists is that the engine may overheat precisely because of this it does not want to start.

Try changing the sensor and cooling will return to normal. In any case, the most reliable option is to take it to a car service center. There, real professionals will quickly sort out the breakdown and tell you what was wrong with the car. You will know in the future what exactly will have to be repaired.

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Why does the Gazelle 405 injection not start? Main reasons

Unfortunately, the difficulties with cars are different, do not start the injector Gazelle 405

for some reason most of the time. Drivers start scratching their heads, but from time to time it is impossible to find a solution to the problem.

At the moment, several more possible breakdowns will be considered in time, what kind of car don’t let go

When this happens, the first thing our client notices is. these are wires, spark plugs, pressure ramps and nozzles

In most cases, the Gazelle 405 injector does not start specifically through the spark plugs, so just change them. Unfortunately, the tasks seem more serious than candles.

Some, when the Gazelle 405 does not start, immediately change the temperature sensor to cool the water. The fact is that the engine may overheat precisely because of this, you do not want to start.

Try replacing the sensor and the cooling will return to normal. In any case, the safest option. take it to a car service center. There, real professionals will quickly deal with breakdowns and say that there weren’t that many cars. You will know in the future what exactly will be repaired.

Common reasons

Do not start the Gazelle 405 injector for any reason. There are hundreds you'll love, and it's not easy to save since there are endless parts. However, in most cases they break nozzles and spark plugs

. If the latter can be bought at any auto parts store, and even an inexperienced driver can replace them, then the former may have problems.

Problems with WMD 405 Euro 3

We are looking for the cause of the malfunction of the ZMZ 405 euro 3

We clean the throttle body while eliminating minor problems.

Grow up Gazelle. Troubleshooting (ZMZ 405 E3) by troubleshooting.

I'm looking for some, it starts

great, this will take seconds3

-5 at 2500-3000 rpm and
the booths
are hot. Now let's get started!

The fact is that in the Gazelle 405 it is very difficult to determine the situation, the snot has broken

Car service to help

If you decide to contact a service center, first perform engine diagnostics. Little experienced drivers understand the cause of the breakdown. At the same time, Gazelle 405 may not start for various reasons, and some of them can be resolved locally.

When you finally take your car to the dealership, at least check with your staff, most likely they will tell you what the problem is.

It is very important to know absolutely everything about your car

to protect yourself on the road and get extra work done. Sooner or later, any part can break, but it will be better if you are prepared for this.

Special cases

In addition to all of the above, there are other adventures with the Gazelle 405. Many drivers do not notice how the chain on the engine jumps. Accordingly, the engine refuses to come to life until the chain is in place.

Your task is simply to open the hood and check if the chain is good

, if not, put it in its place. This procedure will take 10 minutes at best, but you can start the car. The rest do not start the Gazelle 405 injector due to other problems.

It's difficult to answer this question, so we've just listed some of the most common rejection options for you. You can only get an accurate answer after a thorough diagnosis. It is at this stage that you can find out the reason why the car refuses to start. So don’t worry and it’s better to contact a car service.

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Signs of trouble

There are three main symptoms of problems with the injector (injector malfunction) of a Gazelle car.

A characteristic sign of a malfunction can be considered detonation, which is unpleasant for the driver’s hearing.

It destroys the motor, which is why it is so important to find the fault in time and fix it. If the engine stalls for no reason on the road, and subsequent attempts to start it lead to the goal only after many repetitions, this is a clear sign of a faulty injector. The power of the power unit does not inspire approval as before. In common parlance - the car does not “pull”

When climbing a hill, the movement turns into a real test of the driver’s nervous system and can be detrimental to the engine.


Doesn't start when the injector is hot

Replacing the sensor

Replacing the sensor is possible in a garage, but if the driver does not have the proper skills and knowledge of how the car works, you should entrust the replacement of the IAC to a car service center to avoid making mistakes.

Replacement occurs as follows:

  • It is necessary to completely turn off the ignition and remove the key.
  • Then remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  • Using a thin flat screwdriver, unclip the block clamp and disconnect the regulator connector.

The car starts and immediately stalls - causes and solution to the problem

High-quality operation of the vehicle is possible if all technical components and assemblies are working properly. Otherwise, you will have to try hard to get high reliability of transport and not get into an unpleasant situation. But problems can await you quite unexpectedly, and many breakdowns develop unnoticed by the driver until they show their effect on the main components of the car. Therefore, you need to regularly go to the service station, carry out diagnostic work and carry out important regular technical processes. You can easily maintain the reliability of your car if you comply with all the conditions for its normal operation and timely maintenance. Otherwise, the car will have to be regularly repaired, and in retaliation it will constantly show its character at the most inopportune moments.

One of the variants of an unpleasant problem will be the manifestation of such problems: the car starts and immediately stalls. In this case, the car turns out to be untransportable, and you have to use the services of a tow truck or another driver. Especially great difficulties arise with modern cars, the technical components and assemblies of which cannot be looked into without professional knowledge and skills. However, this problem most often affects old vehicles, which are long overdue for retirement. Of course, no car owner is immune from possible problems with their vehicle. Therefore, everyone needs to know what to do in this situation, and also recognize which transport hub is at fault in such a situation.

Inefficient operation of the generator - the engine does not have enough energy

The first reason that can lead to constant engine damping under certain loads is a non-working or poorly functioning generator. As long as the battery in your car is functioning well, you will not notice any negative effects. But as soon as the battery gets a little low, the engine simply won’t have enough charge. Therefore, it is quite possible that the engine will simply stall due to lack of electricity to operate the control system. The main features of this problem are as follows:

  • when you turn on certain equipment in the car connected to the electrical network, the engine stalls due to lack of charge;

Of course, there is no guarantee that this problem will be associated specifically with a missing electrical charge, but often owners of a wide variety of car models and brands are faced with just such difficulties. Therefore, it is best to perform high-quality diagnostics of all elements of equipment and peripheral units, such as a generator. In most cases, these components actually affect various malfunctions and inappropriate behavior of the machine. In particular, they can cause trouble in the form of a stalling engine immediately after starting.

Running out of gas is a common cause of problems.

Fuel level sensors in the gas tank are not the most reliable element of a car, so they often fail and require replacement. Poor quality fuel, difficult climatic conditions - all this can damage the sensor. Also, constant refueling to a certain displacement does not bring anything good. Many people have the habit of filling up 20 liters each time. The sensor is worn out in some places and simply cannot work effectively.

Diagnosis of IAC

How can you diagnose a faulty idle air control valve?:

  1. You stopped for 5 minutes after a long trip, naturally the engine is hot. After this, you try to start the engine, but the engine does not start or starts and immediately stalls. Even if the engine starts, the normal idle speed is not set immediately, but only after pressing the gas pedal more than once.
  2. The same situation can occur on a cold engine. The first time the engine starts and immediately stalls, but the second time it runs fine.
  3. Whatever the engine, hot or cold, it starts only when the gas pedal is depressed.
  4. The situation is the same as in point 3, but the accelerator pedal must be held constantly until the engine warms up or the car starts moving.
  5. You braked sharply and the car suddenly stalled; when you restart, the idle speed remains within normal limits.
  6. The idle speed hangs in an inflated range from 1500 to 2000 revolutions and only after revving it returns to normal values. Therefore, if your car’s engine starts and immediately stalls, try immediately flushing the throttle assembly and idle air control. If this doesn't help, just replace the IAC and that's it.

What does IAC look like?

What's the result?

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons why the engine starts running and stalls after starting. However, most of them are usually associated with the fuel system, ignition system and electronic control system.

In this case, it is appropriate to talk about low compression in the cylinders due to the fact that the engine has exhausted its service life (the cylinder walls, rings, etc. are worn out), that is, the unit needs major repairs. Compression can be measured at a service station or yourself using a compression meter.

Read also: Inverter linear refrigerator compressors are better than piston ones

The engine stalls at idle: what to check. Possible causes of malfunction on engines with a carburetor, injector, and diesel power plants.

At idle the speed “floats”: why does this happen? The main malfunctions associated with idle speed on gasoline and diesel engines.

The main reasons why the engine starts to stall after warming up. Frequent problems of carburetor and injection engines, fault diagnosis.

The reasons why, after pressing the gas pedal, dips occur and the engine begins to choke. Gas engine failures when switching from gasoline to gas.

Why the engine may not pick up speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, car with LPG. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.

Reasons why the engine may stall when you press the brake. The power unit stalls during sudden braking, when the clutch and brake are depressed, etc.

Gas 3110. ZMZ 406 (injector). Doesn't hold idle, starts normally, if you press the pedal it's also OK. The fuel pump is humming, you can hear how good it is humming. Compression is 12 points, all sensors have been checked and replaced, the injectors have also been checked and blown out. The camshafts are honestly as they should be, and needless to say, they have jumped a tooth. What is the reason? The idle speed sensor works. The damper also seems to say everything. Where should I go? We haven't looked at the phase sensor yet. And could this be due to the pump? Should it make a loud noise?

The carburetor or injector does not start on a cold gazelle 406 engine

Gazelle starts and stalls 406 injector reason

A Gazelle with a 406 carburetor and injection engine does not want to work for various reasons. Most of the issues are related to cold temperatures in winter.

Common reasons why a gazelle won't start

The Gazelle will not start, there are different reasons:

  1. The fuel system and its associated components are faulty. The crux of the problem relates to the cylinders and valves.
  2. The ignition system has suspected problems.
  3. Poor starter and battery performance.
  4. The uniform air supply is interrupted.
  5. There are malfunctions in the control unit and its sensors.

All elements of the fuel system will have a significant impact on engine starting. The ZMZ 406 engine for the gazelle is available in injection and carburetor versions. In the injection version, injectors are installed, obviously they can be the suspected source of the problem. There was no cleaning for a long period of time. They are in a dirty state. They should be cleaned or replaced.

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