Gazelle business (UMZ 4216 engine): does not start and check light does not light


Car repair sable.

In this article we will examine the topic of poor engine starting in as much detail as possible. In this article we will talk about 4216 engines, but don’t worry if you have, for example, a 406 engine, we have no doubt that our article will also help you.

If your car has stopped responding to turning the key and does not even try to “wake up” somehow, do not rush to tow your vehicle to a car service center, read our article to the end and most likely you will eliminate the cause yourself. Just follow our advice.

So, let's look at the main symptoms.

The car is trying to start, but something is missing.

The engine “clicks” and doesn’t even try to start.

The car does not respond at all to turning the ignition key.

1) First of all, you must make sure how much power your battery has. (Well, here every motorist will understand this, by the characteristic sound, whether the battery is pulling or not. Elementary, press the sound signal, if the beep is heard, as usual, without “hoarseness,” then the battery is in perfect order.)

2) The next step, as trivial as it may sound, is to check the presence of gasoline in the tank. In a sable booth car, this can be done using an ordinary branch, lowering it into the tank. After you have confirmed the presence of gasoline, turn the ignition key and listen to your fuel pump; it should make a sound. Then find the fuel pipe under the hood, and at the end there is a cap, unscrew it and press the core with a screwdriver. The gasoline in the injectors must drain. Don’t worry, it won’t use up a lot of gasoline, the main thing is don’t light a cigarette. If you get a “pop”, then the pressure in the fuel system is good, therefore, the fuel pump is in working condition.

3) We look at the picture and continue to look for the reason for the poor starting of our engine. Now check the condition of your terminals; it often happens that a huge layer of plaque forms on them, and as a result, poor current flow. Remove the terminals and clean them with a metal brush, ideally lubricate them with a special paste. You can buy the paste at any auto parts store, the price is not astronomical. Next, put on the terminals and tighten them well so that they do not rotate under any circumstances. Believe me, even such a seemingly trifle can cause an unpleasant surprise and loss of your time. We try to start the engine, if nothing has changed, we move on.

4) In the picture to the right of the battery there is a box, we have circled it in red. This is the main fuse. If your box is closed, as in our image, then unscrew the top cover. There are two metal jumper plates there. They should be, like any other fuse, in good condition. Take a ten key and make sure that all these plates are well tightened. If you ride with an open block, then it’s better to unscrew it halfway and use a valve, then tighten it well.

(Believe my experience, I have two sable cars, a booth and an all-metal one, and sometimes such a little thing helps solve a problem in a matter of minutes.)

We try to start the engine. If the car does not start on the first try, do not torture it further and do not “finish off” your battery. Let's move on. In any case, now clean terminals and the main fuse block are only a plus.

5) Before you start inspecting the spark plugs, answer yourself this question: did the car start normally before the breakdown?! Were there any clicks before the breakdown?! Perhaps your starter is just “tired”.

Let's check it before you buy a new one. It would be great if they took you in tow; if the car starts with a push and does not stall, then it is 100% the starter. If towing is not possible at the moment, then you need to check our starter yourself. To do this, turn on the ignition, be sure to remove the car from speed and arm yourself with a regular screwdriver. Now we find our starter (bottom right), find the two main contacts and bridge them with a screwdriver. You should try to do this quickly, touching both contacts at the same time. You should hear exactly the same sound if you were sitting in the driver's seat and trying to start your car. By 70 percent, this “screwdriver method” helps start the engine. If nothing works on the first two attempts, stop and don't drain the battery. There is one more point: perhaps the retractor has become “stuck”. Take a larger key or a small hammer and knock on it. But of course not very much. Try launching.

(I have done all of the above myself more than once, and 90% of the time I always started my sable.)

If you have all these symptoms, you are convinced that the starter has broken down, and you cannot start the engine with your own hands, then of course only replacing the starter will save you. Changing it yourself is not difficult, just unscrew a couple of bolts.

6) How long ago did you change the spark plugs?! Don't be lazy and unscrew the first two spark plugs. What is their condition?! Is there a lot of carbon deposits?! If yes, then you need to buy new spark plugs anyway. Their ability to work has already ended.

7) Check the high voltage wires. First of all, they should be a little soft. If they are “oak” and it’s winter outside, they definitely need to be changed. Carefully remove a couple of wires from the spark plug and move away the upper protective capsule; inside the wire there is a fairly thin core that often breaks. If everything is in order there, also carefully put the wires back on the spark plugs. In general, spark plugs and wires, even if they are in poor condition, they should start your engine, it will just groan, trip, etc., but work.

8) For those who have an alarm system installed. I once had such a story, when the protection system “got wrong”, I examined everything that was written above, checked every wiring, and only an electrician could understand that the protective function of my “miracle” alarm had worked. In such a situation, the engine turns over, but cannot start. You can try to solve this problem yourself, as a simple example, this is to press the door lock and unlock button, and then try to start it. The second option is to find the alarm button itself, this is the so-called error reset, usually located under the steering part. Press and hold the button for 20 seconds. Try it.

9) If even now your sable does not want to start, then we climb into the cabin and to the right of the steering wheel open the cover of another fuse box. It is advisable to check everything. Let's try to launch.

10) We return to the hood, and behind the engine we feel for the wire, the engine ground, everything should be well tightened. I had a situation where the mass almost unscrewed, how, it’s a mystery.

Dear readers, if you have followed all our advice and there is no result, which is of course possible, but rare, then the only thing to do is tow your car to a car service center, it is better if it is a specialized technical center.

All the best, good luck on the roads.

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Specifications

Before we begin to directly consider the issue of a malfunction associated with the tripping and blinking “CHECK” on the dashboard of a Gazelle Business car, it is worth considering the technical characteristics of the UMZ 4216 power unit:

NameCharacteristic
TypeRow
FuelPetrol
Injection systemInjector
Volume2.9 liters (2890 cm3)
Power123 horsepower
Number of cylinders4
Cylinder diameter100 mm
Consumption11 liters per 100 km
Cooling systemLiquid, forced
EconormEuro-3

Gazelle starts and stalls 406 carburetor

In this article we will take a closer look at the situation when a carburetor engine of a passenger car (VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 and their modifications) starts and stalls due to a carburetor malfunction. Malfunctions of carburetors 2105, 2107 Ozone, 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex and their modifications will be considered. The engine starts, runs for a few seconds and stalls, repeated starts are unsuccessful. — The engine starts with difficulty, after running for a short time it stalls, after restarting it starts and runs.

— The engine starts and immediately stalls, starts again and stalls again, and so on several times, but then it still starts working.

Causes of malfunction

There is no fuel in the float chamber

Pump it up using the manual pump lever on the fuel pump.

The fuel pump or power system may be faulty. Remove the hose from the carburetor fuel supply fitting and press the manual primer lever on the fuel pump several times. A strong pulsating stream of gasoline should come out of the hose hole. If it is missing or weak, check the fuel pump or power system.


VAZ fuel pump check

The strainer at the carburetor inlet is clogged

Remove it by unscrewing the cap, clean it (you can use a toothbrush), rinse with acetone or gasoline and blow with compressed air. At the same time, clean the filter seat in the carburetor cover.


details of mesh filters for fuel purification of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex, 2105, 2107 Ozone

The solenoid valve is faulty or the fuel jet of the idle system is clogged

Check whether the solenoid valve or the idle air system fuel nozzle holder has become loose due to any circumstances. Turn it on. Remove the wire from the valve and then put it back on. You should hear the click of the valve being activated. If it is not there, we connect a piece of wire plus the battery and the valve outlet. There is no click - we change the valve. There is a click - we check the EPH system.


carburetor solenoid valves 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex, 2105, 2107 Ozone

Check the serviceability of the valve itself by unscrewing it from the carburetor and removing the fuel jet from it. The jet should be carefully inspected for contamination and deformation. We also check the ease of movement of the valve shut-off needle, the presence and integrity of the rubber O-ring on the valve body.

carburetor solenoid valve device

Unscrew the idle air system fuel nozzle holder (on carburetors with a holder instead of a solenoid valve), rinse, clean the fuel nozzle and blow with compressed air.

“Suction” of foreign air into the carburetor

In this case, the fuel mixture is lean. If the engine starts and immediately stalls, it is most likely very lean. The image shows probable places where foreign air is “sucked in” on the 2108 Solex carburetor.

places where foreign air is likely to “suck” into the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

Read more about the “suction” of foreign air in the article “Suction of foreign air into the carburetor.”

Why does a gazelle start and stall?

During the operation of a car, a common situation is that after turning the ignition key, the car starts, the engine starts to work and stalls after a few seconds. As a rule, 3-5 seconds pass from the moment of starting to stopping the internal combustion engine. Before the engine stops completely, engine vibrations are also noticeable, the power unit shakes and operates very unstable.

This happens as a result of a decrease in speed, the resonance effect of a rotating crankshaft, etc. When you try to start the engine again, the engine may no longer start, or the situation described above may repeat again.

The reasons for this problem vary. The main thing is that if the car starts and stalls, this indicates that in-depth diagnostics are needed. Next we will talk about what to do in such a situation, as well as how to find the reason why the engine stalls after starting.

Read in this article

Problems with the power system

Another reason when the engine stalls when you press the gas may be incorrect operation of the power system. Completely different things can cause such violations, but most often it is low-quality fuel. Various impurities that are added to such a surrogate can lead to blockages in various components of the power system, namely filters, injectors, etc. Provided that the blockages are not severe, failures in engine operation will be quite rare. As the blockages increase, there may come a time when starting the engine becomes simply impossible. Determining the presence of this particular reason is quite simple:

  1. Checking the pump. The first thing you need to do if you have any suspicions is to evaluate the operation of the pump. To do this, you will need to remove the pump and check whether the liquid flows unhindered. If problems are found, you will have to disassemble the part body and clean the filter diaphragm.
  2. Injectors. If the pump is in good condition, you will need to flush the injectors. This procedure is usually performed in specialized centers using ultrasound.

To prevent these problems from arising in the future, it is necessary to be more careful when choosing gas stations.

Another reason for the engine stalling when you press the gas pedal may be poor ventilation in the fuel tank. This can happen if the drain tube is clogged. This problem is very easy to identify. You just need to open the gas tank and start the engine. If the engine stops stalling, then simply clean the drainage.

How does the ZMZ 405 idle speed sensor work?

In carburetor engines, the problem of enriching the mixture when starting the internal combustion engine was solved by a starting handle and shims. With the advent of electronic ignition, this is done by the idle air regulator in conjunction with other sensors and the computer. Its operating principle is as follows:

  • IAC calibration is performed by the ECU controller automatically after detecting this sensor in the system;
  • in fact, the IAC is a stepper motor with a conical needle in a special hole in the throttle valve bypass channel;
  • The IAC contact does not transmit any signals to the “brain” of the machine, but receives them from the controller, therefore it is not a sensor, but an actuator - an electric valve;
  • in turn, the on-board computer “sees” that there is not enough air in the fuel mixture based on the signals from the mass air flow sensor, compared with the signals from the air flow sensor;
  • Voltage is applied to the XX regulator, the needle leaves the channel, and the missing amount of air enters the mixture for mixing.

Electronics problems

Unstable engine operation may occur due to difficulties with the vehicle's electronic system. A large number of operations in the machine are performed under the control of the ECU. If the sensors malfunction, they send erroneous commands to the engine. In most cases, the throttle sensor is affected.

The error is the idle speed is not working properly. Normally, when you press the gas, the volume of fuel supplied should increase, but in reality, on the contrary, it only becomes smaller or stops completely. If you correctly adjust the sensor in a service center, you can solve this problem.

The coolant temperature sensor can also cause the car to brake when the gas pedal is pressed. If the sensor breaks, the engine stops working at high speeds. The ECU system is activated. In the absence of any signals from the sensor, the engine speed may drop to zero.

If the driver wants to increase the gas, the engine is turned off. The sensor must be checked. In most cases, repairing it is impossible; the sensor is replaced with a new device.

Diagnosis of IAC

How can you diagnose a faulty idle air control valve?:

  1. You stopped for 5 minutes after a long trip, naturally the engine is hot. After this, you try to start the engine, but the engine does not start or starts and immediately stalls. Even if the engine starts, the normal idle speed is not set immediately, but only after pressing the gas pedal more than once.
  2. The same situation can occur on a cold engine. The first time the engine starts and immediately stalls, but the second time it runs fine.
  3. Whatever the engine, hot or cold, it starts only when the gas pedal is depressed.
  4. The situation is the same as in point 3, but the accelerator pedal must be held constantly until the engine warms up or the car starts moving.
  5. You braked sharply and the car suddenly stalled; when you restart, the idle speed remains within normal limits.
  6. The idle speed hangs in an inflated range from 1500 to 2000 revolutions and only after revving it returns to normal values. Therefore, if your car’s engine starts and immediately stalls, try immediately flushing the throttle assembly and idle air control. If this doesn't help, just replace the IAC and that's it.

What does IAC look like?

Results

To summarize, we can say that when the engine starts and immediately stalls, the reason for this is not so easy to identify. The problem of this phenomenon can be located both deep in the car itself and on its surface (just move the wires).

Therefore, if simple actions accessible to an ordinary driver do not bring results, the problem is not solved and is constantly repeated, then you cannot do without a car service.

Definitely, this requires a professional approach and the availability of professional equipment.

What to do if the engine does not start.

Let your car engines always start.

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GAZ 2705, UMZ 4216 engine, sometimes stalls#117776
Author:

andruxa__
Date:
29 Sep 2014 14:40

The Gazelle is already tired - the engine stalls at the most inopportune moments - while driving and at traffic lights. Mostly at idle. When it’s cold everything is fine, as soon as it warms up it starts to perform. It shakes and stalls. The engine error light comes on and then goes off. When it’s cooler outside, less often.

He is very afraid of services - as soon as you come with a complaint, everything immediately becomes fine)) The official servicemen shrug their shoulders - they say, we cannot find a fault. As soon as we leave the gate, it starts again. We've already gone several times.

Consumables such as spark plugs and fuel filter were changed..

Is there any chance of a cure? Can anyone suggest a smart craftsman? Or scrap it? 150 thousand km. mileage already.

[Message modified by user 09.29.2014 15:31]

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Re: GAZ 2705, UMZ 4216 engine, sometimes stalls#117791
Author:

SantaDragon (Send email)
Date:
29 Sep 2014 18:05

BB wires

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Re: GAZ 2705, UMZ 4216 engine, sometimes stalls#117792
Author:

didim
Date:
29 Sep 2014 19:34

Does it keep the idle hot normally? I have people walking back and forth when it warms up. If you turn it off when it’s hot, you immediately start it, everything becomes normal)) They couldn’t find anything, they installed multitronics - no errors)) Recently I just caught it and removed the connector from the air pressure sensor - the idle speed became stable, but without it it started stalling on its own - I also can’t drive like that again, in general I’m waiting for a new sensor (I ordered it so it’s cheaper))

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Re: GAZ 2705, UMZ 4216 engine, sometimes stalls#117798
Author:

Alexandr79
Date:
29 Sep 2014 21:36

Measure the fuel pressure in the rail. It should be 4 atm. If it’s less than 3.5, the fuel pump is in the trash. And not a single diagnostic shows this (only a mechanical pressure gauge). On our gazelle, the fuel pump was a consumable, it lasted for an average of 30-40 thousand km (possibly due to the “sneaker to the floor” driving style, average speed 130-140), the symptoms when the pump dies are about the same (progresses over time) .

[Message modified by user 09.29.2014 21:38]

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The engine starts and stalls: troubleshooting

So, if a similar problem appears, then it is necessary to take into account a number of features. First of all, the operation of the internal combustion engine after startup will be influenced by the following factors:

  • fuel supply;
  • air supply;
  • spark on spark plugs (for gasoline internal combustion engines);
  • correct operation of glow plugs (for diesel engines);
  • proper operation of the ECM and electronic sensors;

With that said, you should first start by checking the main possible causes:

  • Quite often, malfunctions in the operation of the alarm system and the anti-theft system can cause the engine to fail to operate after starting. In other words, the immobilizer does not turn off and continues to block the start of the internal combustion engine, which is its main function to prevent vehicle theft. If the alarm blocks the engine, then you need to check the operation of all elements, try to reset the error, turn off the anti-theft system, etc.
  • Problems with the IAC and idle air valve often arise due to contamination of these elements. You should also pay attention to the cleanliness of the throttle valve. As for the crankshaft sensor, incorrect data that it transmits to the ECU can cause the engine to stall immediately after starting.
  • Poor quality fuels and lubricants can also cause problems. As a rule, problems begin in cases where low-grade fuel was filled or the engine uses motor oil that does not meet the recommendations/has lost its properties.
  • A faulty fuel pump, air leaks in the fuel line, the formation of air pockets and dirty fuel filters do not allow creating the required pressure in the power system or supplying fuel in the required volume.
  • The air filter and its contamination leads to the fact that the working mixture is significantly over-rich. In other words, the engine does not have enough air to burn fuel, and the spark plugs flood.
  • Problems with ECM sensors (EGR sensor, oxygen sensor, DPKV, etc.) can lead to both unstable engine operation at idle and a complete engine stop after starting.

Now let's look at the most common problems and how to fix them, looking at them in detail.

  • First of all, the culprit may be the low level of fuel in the gas tank and its quality. If gasoline or diesel fuel runs out, then the engine will start using the remainder in the power system, but further operation will be impossible.

Power system failure

The car brakes when you press the gas pedal due to improper operation of the power system. This problem can arise for a variety of reasons. It often occurs due to the use of low-quality fuel. The fact is that low-quality gasoline contains mechanical impurities that lead to clogging of the power system (filter, injectors).

If the blockage is not severe, then dips when pressing the gas pedal appear occasionally. If the blockage is severe, fuel does not enter the combustion chamber at all. This leads to the fact that it becomes impossible to start the engine.

If such a problem occurs, then all fuel supply elements should be checked. First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the pump. It needs to be removed and checked.

If the pump is working in one direction along the fuel flow line, gasoline flows unhindered. When such a process is not observed, then we can safely say that there is a blockage. In this case, the pump housing is disassembled and the filter diaphragm is cleaned.

The fuel pump screen is clogged

For cars of the VAZ family with an installed injector instead of a carburetor, it is typical that the car starts and stalls. Sometimes the reasons for the engine stopping on its own are due to a malfunction of the fuel pump. If the car stalls immediately after starting, but then starts, the problem lies in a clogged fuel pump cleaning screen. In this case, you need to replace the mesh with a new one and enjoy the further movement of the car.

Recommendations

And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(

remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!

So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?

according to IAC - everything depends on the ECU firmware! DPRV - question to the manufacturer DMRV - it is still a sensor and it also has brains!

filter, there’s nothing else, and maybe a fuel filter, but then it won’t work

I changed the filter, the old one was spinning the same way, they blamed it, but it didn’t turn out that way...

Guys, I’m sorry that it’s not much on topic, but I hope that there’s nothing wrong with it, on the contrary, at idle it works for me, when I press the gas pedal, it feels like there’s either not enough fuel, or it’s terribly overflowing, periodically this overflow or The lack of fuel disappears and the car drives quite normally. What could be, where to go? Thanks for understanding. Machine 3102 with ZMZ 406.

I had this happen because of the injectors.

Do you think it's worth cleaning? Or should I change it anyway?

Cleaning didn't help me, I changed it

Thank you. I'll try to clean it tomorrow

I agree with what was said above on my own - after replacing the filters, if that doesn’t help, try to measure the pressure of the fuel line. 1 the pressure of the pump without a fine filter (in front of the ramp) should be at least 4.5 kgcm 2 at idle, the pressure in the rail should be at least 2.5 kgcm3 most likely The check valve on the fuel rail failed, I replaced about a dozen at one time until I found an old model - a dismountable one - all the problems with idle were gone, good luck

really? because if I give it gas, everything is perfect, it doesn’t hold idle even for 5 seconds, it stalls...

It was due to a clogged filter in the tank (pyramid)

if the fuel pump makes a lot of noise, it means it will soon grunt, I had this happen, you can last a month on this, but apparently it needs a replacement

Gas 3110. ZMZ 406 (injector). Doesn't hold idle, starts normally, if you press the pedal it's also OK. The fuel pump is humming, you can hear how good it is humming. Compression is 12 points, all sensors have been checked and replaced, the injectors have also been checked and blown out. The camshafts are honestly as they should be, and needless to say, they have jumped a tooth. What is the reason? The idle speed sensor works. The damper also seems to say everything. Where should I go? We haven't looked at the phase sensor yet. And could this be due to the pump? Should it make a loud noise?

And how did the epic end? I have similar syndromes =(

remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and start it! If it doesn’t help, then put it back on and take it off. Even if the pump dies, then at xx it will create the necessary pressure, but in power mode it will not work! pull the chips and look!

So, I’ll check with the MAF tomorrow morning, but if I reset the MAF, it generally stalls immediately after starting, but sometimes it lasts for 5-20 seconds, but then it dies immediately. What else to watch? I installed the new phases, for some reason they are shorter than the old one, by 0.2 cm somewhere, +- 0.1. Rxx seems to be working, I checked it as a direct plus, according to the book it was written to check the central socket and the side ones (in turn), it closes, I check the two outer ones, it also closes, although nothing is written about the outer sockets... The mass air flow sensor is also intact, it seems like it gives out 2.80 ohms and not the norm of 2.6 as it should be...what is the reason?

There may be several reasons why the car engine stalls when you press the gas after idling. But the good news is that each reason that the engine stalls when you press the gas has its own conditions, additional symptoms, so each of these reasons is not difficult to determine. Therefore, it is important to understand the situation when this problem occurs. Therefore, let's take it in order, in order of prevalence, of the reasons for the engine stopping while trying to start!

The engine stalls when you press the gas only in the morning or in humid weather. Cause: Moisture on the distributor cap

If the problem occurs only in the morning, when the engine is still cold, or in rainy or cloudy weather, then this means that the cause is moisture on the ignition distributor cap. This happens because at night, especially when it rains, condensation occurs inside the distributor cap. And the shape of the ignition distributor cap of your car model may be such that it allows the electric current inside the distributor to misfire, as a result of which the electricity simply does not reach the spark plugs.

Electronics problems

Modern car models today have very sophisticated electronics that completely control the entire operation of the vehicle. If the engine starts to stall when you press the gas pedal, you should more carefully monitor the operation of many sensors. It is through them that information about the activities of all automobile systems passes, and the failure of any of them will inevitably lead to incorrect operation of the engine. You will need to check the sensors:

  • throttle valve;
  • mass air flow;
  • crankshaft position;
  • idle move.

The most common problem is with the throttle sensor. Here the engine stalls regularly when you press the gas and often completely unexpectedly for the driver.

Only an experienced specialist can determine exactly which sensor began to supply incorrect information to the ECU using special equipment. Not all sensors that fail need to be replaced immediately; you can try to clean them and continue using them.

Complete sabotage

The most deplorable situation, the engine does not start at all.

First of all, you need to maintain composure and not scold the car itself. Only after this, we calmly begin to find out the reason why the engine does not start.

Do not allow the battery to be severely discharged by pointlessly rotating the engine crankshaft, the energy will still be useful to you, but where you will charge the battery if you are far from home is the question. Although for the electronic unit itself 8 Volts will be quite enough. But, of course, they won’t be enough for the starter.

When you have calmed down, be sure to check:

  1. How does the fuel pump work and is there any fuel in the tank?
  2. Is there ignition?
  3. Is the engine crankshaft timing sensor functioning?
  4. Have the injectors failed, although the failure of several injectors at once is too much, this happens very rarely.
  5. The ECU is working. But this device also fails very rarely.

Finding out the cause of the problem

Now let's figure out how to quickly find out:

  • The performance of the fuel pump, of course, is determined by its sound. If there is no sound, then check the wiring and provide 12 V supply to it. Pay attention to the pressure in the fuel system, it should be within 2 - 3 bar while the pump is running. If the fuel supply is stopped, the pressure in the system does not drop immediately. If the pressure drops sharply and there are no fuel leaks, then pay attention to the fuel pressure regulator. At least it can be silenced for a short time.
  • Checking the ignition. To avoid burning the ECU, the spark plug must be connected to ground as best as possible.
  • When checking the synchronization sensor, first of all, we pay attention to the integrity of the wiring and its shielding.
  • As for the ECU, you need to try to move all possible connections. There is a high probability that something has come loose somewhere.
  • Notice if the Check Engine light is on. If it lights up, then all is not lost and the ECU is still working. You need to know that it is not yet possible on VAZ cars without a tester to find out the error code and identify the location of the fault.
  • If a suspiciously large number of error codes are displayed, then you need to pay attention not to the sensors, but to the fact that some part of your car has completely disappeared.
  • You should also pay attention to the performance of the crankshaft synchronization sensor and the performance of the injector control system. But all this requires a special tester, and rarely does anyone carry this device with them in their car. Yes, and it is advisable for specialists to perform such work.
  • But many people can check the voltage in the network. As a rule, when the engine is running it should be 14 V, when starting the engine 8 V, and when the engine is not running 12.5 V.
  • Be sure to check the integrity of the camshaft drive belt and pulley. It's not hard to do.
  • And the last hope. We disconnect everything possible from the ECU (electronic control unit), only leaving the crankshaft synchronization sensor. But again, if you know what you're doing. If you don't know, it's better not to interfere.

Car service to help

Read:

If you decide to contact a car service, first of all carry out engine diagnostics. Few inexperienced drivers understand the cause of the breakdown. At the same time, the Gazelle 405 may not start for various reasons, and some of them can be resolved on the spot.

When you finally take your car to a car service center, at least consult with its employees; most likely they will tell you what the problem is.

It is very important to know absolutely everything about your car.

to protect yourself on the road and do extra work. Sooner or later, any part can break, but it will be better if you are prepared for this.

Special cases

In addition to all of the above, other adventures happen with the Gazelle 405. Many drivers do not notice how the chain on the engine jumps. Accordingly, the engine refuses to come to life until the chain is in its place.

Your task is simply to open the hood and check if the chain is in order

, if not, then put it in its place. This procedure will take you 10 minutes at best, but you will be able to start your car. Otherwise, the Gazelle 405 injector does not start due to other problems.

It is quite difficult to answer this question, so we have simply listed for you several of the most common breakdown options. You can get an accurate answer only after a thorough diagnosis. It is at this stage that you can find out the reason why the car refuses to start. Therefore, do not rack your brains and better contact a car service center.

Yes, you will spend money, and most likely a lot, but at least you will be able to continue to quietly drive around in your gazelle.

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Comments 13

This happened when there was a problem with the phases! But no gases go into the coolant reservoir?

3828 number of the TOZh sensor for the 406 engine

100 poods, the temperature sensor is dead, which on the thermostat housing faces towards the radiator.

To check it, I think you need to screw in the same one, only a new one.

The owner of this motor says that it was installed new. I don't think it's about him.

but the engine won't start after you turn it off

It starts after it cools down to 55 degrees.

Then without a doubt, this is the sensor I'm talking about, I had the same thing. You just need to take it from the 406 motor, the price is 200 rubles. Sometimes from 405 or 402, but they do not work correctly.

The owner of this motor says that it was installed new. I don't think it's about him.

So what if there’s such a new percentage of marriages, mom, don’t worry. Yes, and look for 406, because... available on 405 and 409.

To check it, I think you need to screw in the same one, only a new one.

You just need to turn it off. Mosk will work according to average indicators and if it is successful, then the problem has been found.

UMZ-4216 does not start, no spark

Whether new or old. Andrey S1 year ago Hello, where are you? Need help with Mazda 95. Ilyaz Eldiyarovich1 year ago Golf 3 has such a problem with the ECU there is no spark, can they also be repaired? It’s better not to remove Almas Almaz1 year ago Hello, please help my VAZ 99 year old injector overflows gasoline when starting all the injectors at the same time, advise what to do Anatoly V1 year ago The keys were knocked out, car Priora, Ebu Bosch 7.

Replacing the sensor

Replacing the sensor is possible in a garage, but if the driver does not have the proper skills and knowledge of how the car works, you should entrust the replacement of the IAC to a car service center to avoid making mistakes.

Replacement occurs as follows:

  • It is necessary to completely turn off the ignition and remove the key.
  • Then remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  • Using a thin flat screwdriver, unclip the block clamp and disconnect the regulator connector.

Ignition system

Spark plugs and high-voltage wires directly affect engine starting. Accordingly, breakdowns in the elements will cause a failure of the entire system. To check spark plugs, a special stand is used, although you can check it the old fashioned way:

  1. We unscrew the candle from the well.
  2. We connect the armored wire.
  3. Connect the spark plug body to ground.
  4. We try to start the engine.

If everything is in order with the spark plugs, then there will be a spark between the contacts. If the part is faulty, then there will be no spark, and accordingly, the element must be replaced. Checking armored wires is quite simple. All elements are removed from the car and measured by a tester. The resistance on each high voltage wire should be 5 ohms.

Failure Traits

If the engine malfunctions, the following characteristic features will occur:

  • The car stalls when you turn on devices or other equipment powered by the on-board network.
  • The operation of the BC is disrupted due to voltage surges.
  • When a load is applied, the engine stops immediately.
  • You can hear the sounds of the alternator belt spinning.
  • If the operation of the generator is disrupted, then as the speed increases, the headlights begin to burn better and brighter.

Sometimes these problems are not related to the malfunction of the generator, but to other problems of the car.

Wear of sealing gaskets

The design feature of the engine requires the presence of sealing gaskets. They make the engine structure more airtight. If the gaskets in the area of ​​the manifold or cylinder block are worn out or have lost their tightness, then when you press the gas pedal, the engine may stall.

If the gasket burns out, coolant penetrates into the engine in the area of ​​the cylinder block. In this situation, the engine continues to operate, but the number of revolutions decreases sharply. You may notice white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe.

The driver, faced with the problem of turning off the engine, finds himself in an extremely unpleasant situation. In order to eliminate this difficulty, you need to know the reason for its occurrence.

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Comments 23

shoots into the launcher when the mixture is still lean

The valve timing marks were set incorrectly

YES, IT STARTED, but it runs on gasoline and on gas it shoots into the intake manifold. and the car quickly heats up and gases go into the exhaust tank. although the head was milled along the plane and measured...

also won't start after repair, only 402

and after starting the engine, dial from 1000 to 2700 rpm in 15 seconds, 3-4 times, to expel the air from the hydraulic compensators, then the engine will start to whisper, well, if you assembled it well))) on the first start there is usually noise

The high voltages may not have been attached correctly

look at the correct connection of the armored vehicles to the kateshkoh, it was like this

if there are pops, check the phases. They were right about the damper. and are all sensors connected?

and the wires are the same as 406 1-4 and 2-3

This can happen even if the car has been parked for a long time, it’s a fact

pull it in tow, the hydraulic compensators have lost oil and the clearance on the valves is completely different, or even there is no compression at all, pull it in 2nd-3rd gear for 700-1000 meters, the compensators will pick up oil and everything will fall into place, compression will appear in time

very good advice! There are no words for it!

pull it in tow, the hydraulic compensators have lost oil and the clearance on the valves is completely different, or even there is no compression at all, pull it in 2nd-3rd gear for 700-1000 meters, the compensators will pick up oil and everything will fall into place, compression will appear in time

Read more: Lamps in the headlights of a Polo sedan

+1 There was exactly the same situation, with the same engine, we took it in tow, drove it for 300 meters, everything worked.

One day the Gazelle stopped starting? The reason lies in engine malfunctions. The problem may be related to both the mechanical part and the electrical part. To fix the problem, you will have to diagnose a number of parts.

Gas distribution mechanism (GRM) and breakdown of internal parts of the power unit

The gas distribution mechanism consists mainly of a crankshaft with a group of pistons and camshafts with intake and exhaust valves. Driven by belt or chain drive.

Each of the shafts must have a certain position during engine operation, but it also happens that a large wearout of the belt, chain or gear with sprockets leads to the fact that any shaft begins to either advance or be late in performing its functionality.

This is called incorrect ignition timing adjustment.

Malfunctions in the exhaust manifold

The engine only works correctly if it is completely sealed. Various gaskets are responsible for the tightness, and if any of them is destroyed, then there can be no question of tightness. This violation leads to the fact that the preparation of the fuel mixture occurs with irregularities. For example, if the cylinder gasket is damaged, coolant will leak into the fuel tank.

To eliminate problems of this type, you simply need to replace the damaged gasket. These manipulations can be done independently, but if more serious problems arise, it is best to contact a specialist.


An exhaust manifold

The moment when the engine suddenly stalls when you press the gas is extremely unpleasant and often takes the driver by surprise. It is unlikely that it will be possible to quickly understand the reason for this behavior of the vehicle. It is necessary to carry out a fairly thorough inspection and then make the necessary repairs. Driving a disabled car is strictly prohibited.

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