VAZ 2106 won’t start: reasons and how to fix it

The question of how to start a Zhiguli may arise for owners of a “classic” car in 5 cases: the ignition switch is broken, the key is lost, the battery is dead, the starter does not turn, or there is severe frost outside. If you don’t know how to act in one of these situations, then read the article.

How you can start a Zhiguli when the standard version with a key is not possible is noted in the table.

OptionsSituation
without ignition switchwiring problemsno keybattery is deadbattery is missingstarter doesn't worksevere frost
from wires
from the pusher
directly with a screwdriver
crooked starter
with suction*

*the choke is used to further enrich the mixture and make it easier to start a cold engine in any situation, but if in warm weather it is possible to start a cold engine without it, then in cold weather this is very problematic.

Determining the type of fault

First of all, we decide on the following: whether the car was working before the breakdown, and it happened suddenly, or whether the VAZ 2106 engine does not start after intervention in its components. If the car worked perfectly before, then the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the operation of the fuel supply system or in the engine ignition system.

The simplest check of the power system is to remove the cap and pour 5-10 ml of gasoline into the primary chamber of the carburetor. After this, a restart is carried out immediately. Does the VAZ 2106 start and stall? Then we check the fuel supply to the carburetor.

To check the power system you must:

  • Unscrew the screw of the fuel hose clamp going to the carburetor and lower the edge of the hose into a container;
  • By periodically pressing the manual fuel pumping lever, which is located on the fuel pump, check the fuel supply to the carburetor.

If there is no noticeable resistance from the lever when pressing, you need to turn the crankshaft half a turn. If the VAZ 2106 carburetor does not start well and the fuel does not flow through, or the quantity is clearly insufficient, then it is necessary to check the fuel line and fuel pump. Does the VAZ 2106 start poorly after the shortage of gasoline has been eliminated? The next step is to troubleshoot the carburetor. It is necessary to blow out all the jets and channels, and clean the accelerator pump nozzle. Most likely, after such work the engine will start.

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Common faults of the VAZ 2106

The products of the domestic automobile industry are not of high quality, and at first glance it is not so easy to determine the common reasons why the VAZ 2106 stalls or does not start at all. Malfunctions can be in everything - in electrical equipment, in the ignition system or in the power system. Perhaps the spark has disappeared on the VAZ 2106 or it is related to the idle air regulator. Therefore, to help the car figure it out, let’s look at the main reasons why the car won’t start and stalls. To troubleshoot problems, we will study useful recommendations from specialists.

If the car won't start

If the VAZ 2106 does not start, you must first identify the true reason. The probable causes of such a problem and possible ways to solve it are as follows.

  1. The car may not start due to faulty breaker contacts. To confirm or eliminate the risk of such a malfunction, it is necessary to check the condition of the contacts mentioned for the presence of gap violations or oxidation (burning) of the working surfaces. In the first case, you will need to adjust the gap, in the second, you will need to clean or replace the working surfaces. The compression spring will also need to be replaced if necessary.
  2. The problem may lie in the low voltage wiring of the VAZ 2106 car or in loosening (oxidation) of the wire terminals. You should check the wires going from the ignition coil to the distributor for breakdown and short circuit. There may also be problems with the ignition switch, which needs to be checked, and if it is faulty, it must be replaced or its contact group must be changed.
  3. There is a possibility of failure of the ignition coil, that is, the spark in the VAZ is lost. Perhaps the problem is a short circuit in the primary winding of this coil, which can be corrected by swapping high-voltage wires. If a spark on a VAZ 2106 appears in a place where it was not there before, but disappears on a new one, this indicates a fault in the spark plug wire.
  4. Problems with ignition distribution. The distributor capacitor may be broken; therefore, for normal operation of the car, it must be replaced. It also happens that the distributor is installed incorrectly, this leads to the car jerking during acceleration and then stalling.

Why does the car stall while driving?

As for the most common malfunctions that many drivers of VAZ cars encounter, the list of common reasons includes those that lead to the fact that the domestic car 2106 stalls while driving. Let's look at them in detail.

  1. Low quality of fuel used. This is where experts recommend starting to look for the source of the problem. If, when draining the old fuel and replacing it with a new one, you are lucky and the car starts, you can confidently say that you should not skimp on the quality of gasoline for your car.
  2. Candles. Often, after changing the fuel and the problem persists, that is, the VAZ still does not start, suspicion falls on the spark plugs. You should check their condition after they are unscrewed and, if necessary, replace them with new ones.
  3. Fuel filter. Very often, a clogged filter can provoke interruptions in the fuel supply, as a result of which the VAZ 2106 stalls while driving. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to replace the fuel filter.
  4. Problems with the air filter are solved using the same method as with the fuel filter. A clogged filter does not allow air to pass through, which leads to engine pressure, that is, a drop in power. This way, the combustion process of the mixture will not take place, and as a result, the engine will stall.
  5. The problem is the fuel pump. A faulty fuel pump causes the VAZ 2106 to stall or not start at all. Treatment is checking the pump followed by repair or replacement.
  6. Battery: oxidation or poor terminal contact. The terminals should be checked, and then the battery should be cleaned or replaced.
  7. If the engine stalls while driving and won't start again, the cause may be the generator, which is not providing a charge. And since the car is powered only by the battery and, as you know, it doesn’t last long, the car starts working on the battery until it is completely empty.
  8. In modern brands, the cause of breakdown can be faulty electrical equipment. With such a problem, it is better to immediately contact specialists, because without experience and knowledge, you can replace half a car, but not get rid of the problem.

This concludes the review of the reasons leading to the VAZ 2106 not starting or stalling while driving. Spare no effort, time and financial resources for the well-being of your car, and it will respond with high-quality and long-term service.

Checking the power system

The easiest and most reliable way is to remove the air filter cover and pour about 10 ml of fuel into the carburetor. Then you need to try to start the car again. If the VAZ 2106 does not start or the engine starts and immediately stops working, then you need to check the fuel supply system to the carburetor.

Carburetor and fuel line

If the VAZ 2106 does not start and the fuel mixture is not supplied to the carburetor, or there is a supply, but the amount of fuel is not enough to start, then the reasons are a malfunction of the line or the fuel pump. If the engine does not want to start after problems with the fuel supply have been resolved, it is recommended to check the carburetor.

Symptoms of damage indicating probable malfunctions

Both replacement and repair of the distributor in the VAZ-2106 car is carried out when the mechanism is not functioning properly.

  1. The car jerks while driving. In addition, twitching is not typical for your “six”.
  2. The engine does not want to start.
  3. Trying to accelerate the vehicle, the car jerks, and a lot of time is spent on the acceleration process. In addition, the engine is capable of detonating (knocking of the piston rings is observed).
  4. Fuel consumption increases.

In general, the symptoms are similar to those that appear when the ignition is set incorrectly. Naturally, when these symptoms appear, it is difficult to say that the breakdown lies in the distributor. Nevertheless, diagnosis of this node is necessary. As for the damage that prompts VAZ-2106 drivers to repair, they are mainly as follows:

  1. The unit slider is burnt out or worn out.
  2. The contacts directly in the cover have burned out.
  3. The Hall sensor is damaged. There is not only a breakdown of the controller here, but also poor contact of the regulator plug.
  4. Distributor bearing. From prolonged use it has become loose or jammed.
  5. There are mechanical issues including cracks in the cover.
  6. Engine fluid penetrates into the distribution unit. The problem is mainly associated with the tightness of the lid.

Problems with the fuel line and carburetor


At the next stage, you need to check the fuel line very carefully - it is quite possible that it is damaged, which is why fuel simply does not flow into the engine.
If no damage has been identified, move on to the carburetor. This device ensures the ignition of gasoline and is also responsible for its enrichment. Dismantling a carburetor is a rather complicated procedure, which is best left to experienced professionals. But if you have repaired your car several times, you can do everything yourself. After disassembly, troubleshooting of device parts is carried out, replacement of worn or failed components, as well as installation and adjustment of the carburetor.

Problems with the carburetor also explain the difficulties with starting the engine when hot. The thing is that the needle of this device can move from the required level. This will lead to over-enrichment of the fuel. Symptoms of this breakdown are a constantly disappearing spark, as well as operation of the power unit at low speeds immediately after start-up.

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Distributors: purpose and types

The main distributor of the 2106 model is located on a horizontal section made to the left of the engine valve cover.
The unit shaft, ending with splines, is included in the gear of the internal cylinder block. The gear rotates through the timing chain, while simultaneously turning the pump shaft. Thanks to the distributor, the ignition system performs 3 tasks:

  1. At the right moment, it breaks the target of the original coil winding. Because of this, a high voltage shock is formed in the secondary.
  2. Alternately directs the discharge to the spark plugs based on the order of activity of the cylinders, that is, 1-3-4-2.
  3. Automatically adjusts the advance angle of the distributor when changing the crankshaft rotation.

Starter does not turn

The most common reason why a VAZ 2106 refuses to start is usually related to the starter of this car. Sometimes the starter categorically refuses to rotate after turning the key in the ignition. This is why:

Video: a common problem with the starter on a “classic”

Other reasons why the VAZ-2106 does not start


Quite often, the car does not want to start immediately after major or routine repairs. Basically, this problem is caused by poor ignition timing adjustment. You can eliminate it in the following way:

  • set the piston of the first cylinder to the highest point of the end of the compression stroke;
  • unscrew the candle, close the hole for its installation with a plug made of fabric;
  • crank the car's crankshaft;
  • After the plug is pushed out of the hole, we fix this position.

In addition, after repairing the car, it is necessary to correctly set the valve timing, for which all indicators are set according to the marks applied at the factory.

Hot VAZ 2106 Carburetor Starts Poorly

VAZ-2106 does not start when cold or hot: reasons

Cars from the Tolyatti Automobile Plant are simply very popular among Russian consumers. But the main reasons for the demand for them are considered to be the relatively low cost and availability of spare parts. Otherwise, these vehicles are very inferior to imported cars.

Sometimes owners of Russian cars are faced with the problem that the VAZ-2106 will not start. What is the reason for this problem, and what to do if it reaches you specifically? Next we will provide answers to all these questions, in addition we will give a number of necessary tips for repairing the “six”.

Checking the performance of the power system

If your car won't start, we suggest starting with diagnosing the accounting power system. It can be done without the help of others. For this purpose you need:

In most cases, the fuel pump burns out in this very system, which is very sensitive to low-grade fuel. Special filters provide its protection, but after some time the filter elements become clogged and substances enter the pump that have a negative effect on its operation.

If the matter is specifically in solving this issue, it will be necessary to dismantle the device, carefully clean it, install new filters, and only then carry out the installation.

The next problem with the fuel pump is the penetration of air into it. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to very carefully check the entire highway, and then remove any detected density violations.

Problems with the fuel line and carburetor

Next, you need to check the fuel line very carefully - it is possible that it is damaged, which is why fuel simply does not flow into the engine. If no damage is found, we move on to the carburetor. This device ensures the combustion of gasoline, and of course is responsible for its enrichment.

Dismantling a carburetor is a rather complicated procedure, which is best left to the experts. If you have repaired your own car more than once, of course, what remains for our client to do without the help of others. After disassembly, troubleshooting of device parts is carried out, replacement of worn-out or failed devices is carried out, in addition, installation and adjustment of the carburetor.

Problems with the carburetor also explain the difficulties with starting the engine in hot weather. Our client is left with the possibility that the needle of this device may move from the required level. This will lead to over-enrichment of the fuel. Symptoms of this breakdown are a constantly disappearing spark, as well as operation of the unit at low speeds immediately after starting.

Checking the functionality of the ignition coil

The next part that causes a car to not start, or its engine to turn poorly and fire, is the ignition coil.

This is where high-voltage wires or the distributor cap usually become unusable.

To eliminate short circuits in this unit, of course, change its position somewhat, fix it at a certain distance from all other parts of the machine structure.

Today, coil diagnostics are performed using a multimeter or another ohmmeter. Your task will be to check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. If the acquired readings turn out to be significantly higher than the usual characteristics, then it is better to change the part, because it will be very difficult to restore its functionality;

Other reasons why the VAZ-2106 does not start

Often the car does not want to start immediately after major or routine repairs. Basically, this problem turns out to be a prerequisite for poor ignition timing. There is an option to remove it using the following method:

Already today, after repairing a car, it is necessary to correctly set the valve timing; for what purpose, what remains to be done for our client, the characteristics are installed according to the marks applied at the factory.

Doesn't start when hot. TOP 3 Causes of Poor Engine Starting

With the arrival of hot days, a large number of drivers are faced with the problem of a disgusting engine start on a hot day, after several minutes of parking.

At the same time, this is a problem not only with carburetor engines - a situation where it does not start in hot weather awaits both the owners of cars with an injection engine and diesel cars. Only the prerequisites are different for everyone.

Here we will try to collect them and identify those that usually occur.

When a hot carburetor engine does not start

The reasons why does not start well are to some extent clear; the volatility of gasoline is largely to blame. The essence is that when the engine has warmed up to operating temperature, the carburetor also heats up, and after turning it off, for 10-15 minutes, the fuel begins to evaporate, making it difficult to start the car.

Installing a textolite spacer can help here, but it does not give 100% results.

Under these circumstances, starting a hot engine will be helped by pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor and purging the fuel accounting system, but not longer than 10-15 seconds, since fuel can flood the spark plugs. If the question concerns the “Zhiguli”, then the fuel pump is also to blame, since “Zhiguli” gasoline pumps really do not like the heat and sometimes completely refuse to work when overheated.

When an injection engine does not start

Since an injection engine is somewhat more complex than a carburetor engine, accordingly, the circumstances for which such an engine does not start will not be easy. Namely, there are variations in the form of malfunctions of subsequent components and devices:

Poor HOT START in summer. It's all about Gasoline!

In the summer, even after a short stay, the engine takes a very long time to start. About the main reason.

Why does a car have trouble starting when hot in the summer?

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Next, let's move on to considering the likely circumstances of a bad hot start in cars with diesel engines.

When a hot diesel engine has trouble starting

Sometimes, diesel engines also sometimes have variations that do not start when hot. In most cases, the causes of this phenomenon are malfunctions of subsequent components:

Now we will try to summarize the information provided so that it is easier for you to find the cause of the breakdown if it happened to your car.

Three main reasons for poor hot starting

What is needed, according to statistical data, the main reasons for the disgusting start of the engine after idle time at high temperatures are:

We will also provide you with a table where we tried to visually show which components will cause problems, and what needs to be inspected in engines of various types.

Why does a warm engine stall?

Some motorists are faced with a situation where an already running and warmed-up engine suddenly stalls. In this case, this happens already when the sensor has recorded a set of normal operating temperatures. There are several circumstances that you will like better. Next, we will look at them in more detail, and additionally indicate what needs to be done in what is also called another case.

Try to monitor the normal state of the above components and devices. Even minor breakdowns, if they are not removed promptly, will of course grow into huge difficulties that will result in costly and complex repairs for you.

Conclusion

The first thing you need to do to ensure that the engine starts normally in hot weather is to refuel at proven gas stations, and of course take care of the condition of the fuel system of your car’s accounting programs.

If the engine does not start after even a short period of inactivity in the heat, then the most important thing is to open the throttle valve (press the gas pedal) or remove the filter cover and leave it open for a few minutes. During this period, the evaporated gasoline will evaporate and it is possible to start the engine normally.

If this procedure does not help, then you need to search for defects among the components and devices outlined above.

Source

Checking the spark plugs and spark

If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts. Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

It can be:

General faults:

  • Faulty spark plugs (carbon deposits, destruction of insulator)
  • The high-voltage wires are faulty (the insulation is broken, the current flows “to the left”, not reaching the spark plug)

For injectors:

  • Ignition module is faulty
  • There is no power to the ignition module. Power is supplied from the engine control unit, but the signal to the unit comes from the ignition switch. Therefore, there may be a malfunction of the ignition switch contact group.
  • Engine control unit faulty

Errors in the ignition control system are usually visible during diagnostics and cause the Check Engine light to turn on.

For carburetors:

  • Contact carbon stuck in the ignition distributor cap (distributor)
  • Resistor burnout in the distributor rotor (in the distributor runner)
  • Burning or play of the contact group (for contact ignition)
  • Switch malfunction (for contactless ignition)
  • Ignition coil malfunction
  • No power to the coil. Power is supplied to the coil through the ignition switch, so it is worth checking its contact group

When there is no spark on only one spark plug, you need to replace this spark plug with a new one or change its high-voltage wire. Spark plugs that are too wet should also be replaced with new ones or at least dried in a flame. This is necessary because current will not be able to pass through wet contacts and there will be no spark.

If there is a spark on all spark plugs, check the fuel supply.

Contactless distributor

The device of the distributor, functioning with the electronic ignition mechanism, is similar to the design of a mechanical distributor. This device also has a slider, a plate with a bearing, a vacuum corrector and a centrifugal regulator. However, the contact group and capacitor are replaced by a Hall sensor and a metal screen fixed on the shaft.

The contactless distributor in the 2106th model works as follows:

  1. A permanent magnet and Hall sensor are located on the moving section. A screen with slits rotates between them.
  2. As soon as the magnet field is blocked by the screen, the voltage is zero at the terminals and the sensor is inactive.
  3. When the roller rotates and overcomes the slot, the magnet field reaches the sensor surface. In turn, a voltage is generated at the output of the element, which is sent to the electronic unit (switch). The latter sends a signal to the coil, which generates a discharge going to the ignition slider.

The non-contact dispenser is more durable in operation. The bearing and Hall sensor fail less often due to the lack of mechanical stress.

Signs of a fuel pump malfunction

The VAZ 2106 is equipped as standard with a mechanical fuel pump. Moreover, it fails relatively often. The reasons may be different:

  • the pusher or drive cam is worn down;
  • The intake valve is stuck.

Regardless of the causes of the malfunction, you can always use manual pumping of gasoline. For these purposes, there is a special lever on the fuel pump body - it is located on the reverse side. By pressing it several times you can supply fuel to the carburetor. Checking the functionality of the fuel pump is very simple - just remove the fuel hose from the filter and make sure that there is gasoline in the line.

VAZ car does not start after repair

Often, one of the reasons is incorrectly set ignition timing. The phases in the gas distribution mechanism may be out of whack. In this case, the engine may not start at all, or work intermittently - the process of engine operation may be accompanied by sneezing.

To eliminate this, the piston of the first cylinder is placed at the top point of the end of the compression stroke. In this case, you should not set it in accordance with the labels. This is a four-stroke unit, and the marks in it coincide twice during the cycle. There is an old but effective method - unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder, and cover the hole with a piece of rags. Then turn the crankshaft. The moment when the fabric plug is pushed out is just needed for ignition.

If the valve timing is out of order, the breakdown can be eliminated by setting all parameters to the factory marks.

How to direct power to the shield

Another effective method, applicable for a VAZ car and other vehicles, is to direct the power supply to the panel. To do this, you should perform the following sequence of actions:

  • Open the hood, find the red wire coming from the ignition coil. The wires from the coil and spark plug are located at the rear of almost any V engine. In engines with four cylinders, they are located on the right, in the middle of the engine. Six-cylinder engines are distinguished by the location of the wires on the left in the middle part. Once you have decided on the wires, they should be removed to start the external power source.
  • The wires must be connected to the coil and to the positive terminal of the battery. Thus, the required amount of power will be supplied to the panel to start the engine.
  • We find the ignition coil.
  • We unlock the steering wheel by inserting a flat-head screwdriver into the center of the steering column. Next you should press between it and the steering wheel. During the process, care must be taken to ensure that the pins do not break. Finally, connect the positive terminal of the battery to the coil. On top of it is a battery cable with a “+” sign under another short wire.

Next, remove the ignition switch wiring and, using a screwdriver with a dielectric handle, connect the positive terminal of the coil to the one that connects to the ignition switch. In this case, 12 volts will be connected directly from the battery.

These manipulations allow you to engage the coil, and the starter will start the engine.

Universal method

There is a method in which the main component is a screwdriver. This option is suitable not only for the VAZ-2106, but also for more modern models, for example, for the 2109. Before starting the car without a key in this way, make sure that the battery is fully charged. If the unit is not charged enough, the starter will receive less electricity, so the engine may not start.

Another significant drawback is that after hacking, you will have to buy and install a new ignition switch; it will not be possible to restore the old one. Therefore, sometimes turning to specialists at a car service center is not only safer, but also more profitable.

If you are completely confident that you can carry out these manipulations, get to work by first preparing the drill. The drill should be installed just above the ignition switch, drilling a hole that is equal to the length of the key. This way all the pins will be destroyed. In some cases, this step must be repeated more than once in order to achieve the desired result.

After this, you need to insert a minus screwdriver into the hole, turning it clockwise. As a result, the VAZ-2106 will start, and you can go along your route.

It is worth noting that before using the methods listed above, make sure that you are ready to perform all the steps correctly, because any mistake can lead to significant damage and expensive repairs.

Checking the air supply

In the air supply system, malfunctions occur extremely rarely and boil down to either a tightly clogged air filter or a blockage of the air channel by a foreign object. Such malfunctions are unlikely to occur on a well-maintained personal vehicle. But if the car is, for example, a service car or recently purchased, it would be a good idea to make sure that the filter is intact and that there is no rag stuck in the channel after a recent repair.

These are basic actions that can be quickly performed when the engine does not start. If there is a spark at all the spark plugs, gasoline enters the engine and everything is in order with the air supply system, you need to go deeper.

As was already said at the beginning of the material, it is difficult to describe all the reasons why the engine may not start in one article. Therefore, we present only a general list.

  • The starter does not develop starting speed
  • Insufficient on-board electrical voltage (weak battery)
  • Lack of compression in the engine cylinders (worn out piston rings, stuck valves)
  • Violation of valve timing (timing belt breaks or jumps one/several teeth)
  • There is no signal from the crankshaft position sensor or other “vital” sensors of the injection system.
  • Engine control unit malfunction

And others. Finding such faults is more difficult to do in outdoor conditions, especially if it happens in winter. You need to take the car in tow and pull it to a garage or car service.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

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Ignition setting: when required

It is worth focusing on some symptoms by which the car owner can easily determine that the distributor requires adjustment and alignment.

  1. The engine cannot be started.
  2. Increased fuel consumption. Sometimes this is due to the need to adjust the carburetor. For example, if the ignition is adjusted later, then the dynamics of the “six” will be low, and in order to accelerate well, the engine requires more gasoline.
  3. The occurrence of shots in the muffler or air filter.
  4. The power unit functions unstably: it makes noise, vibrates. Setting the ignition and clearly placing the distributor on the VAZ-2106 is required in case of engine tripping or shaking.

How to start the engine in winter or cold start.

As soon as the cold weather sets in, most of the cars in all parking lots categorically refuse to start, which we agree is not a normal phenomenon, because... Any good engine should start in any weather.

Here - initially the frosty weather should not exceed critical for your car. And you must calculate this temperature only experimentally. For example, a carburetor classic (my VAZ 2106) starts at a maximum of -33, and an injection Opel Vectra starts at -25. Below the temperature, it’s not worth trying without warming up.

But if your car does not start in clear frosty weather, then you should not panic and, in a desperate attempt, drive the starter, and, of course, drain the battery to zero.

First, you still need to make sure that all the electrical appliances of the car - the stove, radio, sidelights, heated glass - are turned off. And only then do you need to directly approach the most important thing - starting the engine in frosty conditions. If your car has been parked all night in a cold parking lot, then the battery must be warmed up. How to do it? Does it really need to be brought into a warm room and recharged? Of course, this would be a good option, but if there is no warm room and no charger, then in the morning you just need to turn on the headlights for 15-20 seconds, which will allow the battery to warm up a little, but you should not start the engine yet. We put the gearshift knob in neutral, depress the clutch - the oil in the gearbox has thickened from the cold - and turn the ignition key. If the car has the so-called. choke, then pull the choke handle all the way towards you. This will allow the carburetor engine to start faster. If the engine fails to start the first time, you need to try again after 30-40 seconds. If after 3-4 attempts you cannot start the engine, then you need to move on to another step. We open the hood, remove excess moisture from the battery terminals, as a rule - it will certainly form there in the morning, with a special dry cloth. We unscrew the battery terminals, turn them back and forth several times, tighten them again and try to start everything. If it doesn’t work after several attempts, then it’s better to stop doing it, otherwise there is a risk that you will simply flood the spark plugs with fuel. If you have already filled in, then you need to wait a little and try again. If this does not work, then you need to unscrew the flooded candles, and instead screw in candles with a high heat rating, which are ideal for winter conditions. Of course, they will not be able to last for a long time, but they are just right for the winter season. If you want your spark plugs to last as long as possible, then it would be right if you unscrew them from time to time, take them home, fry them properly from carbon deposits on an ordinary household gas stove, adjust the gap between the anode and cathode with a special probe, etc. .d. Only in this case can you hope that the spark plugs will serve you long and well. As soon as you start the engine, be sure to work the gas pedal properly - this will allow the engine to warm up faster and the battery to begin charging. As a rule, at idle speed, the engine speed does not exceed 800 rpm, and charging of the battery begins only when the engine speed begins to exceed 1200 rpm. And only when the car engine has warmed up properly (80-85°C), only in this case will it be possible to turn on the heater. If your car has an automatic transmission, then it must also be warmed up before driving, because cold, thickened oil will not allow the car to go far, and you risk permanently damaging the automatic transmission.

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Carburetor does not supply fuel

Often the problem lies in the carburetor - and the car can start when cold and then stall. It will be difficult to check this part yourself, especially if you have no experience. The problem can be solved with special compounds designed for cleaning carburetors. To use them, just remove it and then spray the spray inside. Cleaning a carburetor is not an easy task even for a very experienced auto mechanic. You will need a special rinsing bath, as well as a compressor.

Sometimes it happens that the fuel pump is fully operational and the fuel reaches the carburetor normally. In this case, you can try the following:

  • remove the air filter cover;
  • the partner is looking inside the intake manifold at this time;
  • turn the starter, press the gas pedal.

As a result of performing the above actions, fuel must enter the manifold. If it is missing for some reason, then the carburetor needs to be washed, it is not working properly. It is important to remember that there are many other reasons why the cylinders may not be getting into the cylinders. Each case must be considered individually.

Checking distributor operation and troubleshooting

Often the car does not grip at all or does not hold idle speed well. Quite often the distributor on the VAZ 2106 fails. Procedure:

  • you should check the gap size at the breaker contacts - the distance between them should be 0.4 mm;
  • The integrity of the resistor is checked - it is located on a special slider.

If no problems were identified, then the ignition must be set correctly. All of the above malfunctions apply specifically to carburetor cars. But some VAZ 2106 models were equipped with injectors. The causes of malfunctions for different types of fuel injection systems can differ significantly.

Consequences of an incorrectly set ignition angle

Both late and early ignition negatively affects the operation and service life of the engine. It should be added that not only power and fuel consumption depend on the correct ignition timing. If a spark on the spark plug forms earlier than expected, then the pressure of the expanding gases begins to counteract the piston rising to TDC (pre-ignition). Ignition of the working mixture after the piston has begun to move down from TDC leads to the fact that the released fuel energy “catches up” with the piston and enters the exhaust, rather than doing useful work (late ignition).

Signs of early ignition appear in the form of the following symptoms:

  • the appearance of a metallic ringing sound during engine operation, which is localized in the area of ​​the cylinder block;
  • idle speed fluctuates, the engine is unstable;
  • after pressing the “gas” there is a pause, the engine does not “pull” and overuses fuel;

Late ignition also causes significant damage to the engine. In this case, combustion of the mixture occurs under conditions of decreased pressure and increased volume in the internal combustion engine cylinder. The combustion process of the fuel-air mixture itself is disrupted, which burns out during the working stroke of the piston. As a result, signs of late ignition are:

  • the engine loses power, you need to press hard on the gas to accelerate;
  • there is a significant increase in fuel consumption;
  • the engine is heavily coked by deposits and carbon deposits;
  • improper combustion of the mixture leads to engine overheating;

Car with fuel injection system

The process of checking the operation of an injection engine is both simpler and more complex. The causes of malfunction are significantly fewer than with a carburetor. At the same time, eliminating them is much more difficult. There are actually only two reasons: lack of gasoline and spark. The presence of a special light bulb - Check Engine - simplifies the work somewhat.

If any malfunction occurs, it lights up immediately. Typically, if the engine cannot be started, the error code will be PO3ХХХ. Indicates misfires in the cylinder. But first you need to make sure there is a spark in the engine. If you have problems starting the engine on a VAZ 2106 with a carburetor, you should:

  • use a diagnostic scanner - when an error is detected, it is very easy to identify the part that allows you to identify the malfunction by its number;
  • replacing the ignition module - often the problem lies in this unit; it fails quite often.

A typical problem with all VAZ engines is the failure of a pair of transistors. Each of them is responsible for the normal operation of 2 cylinders. Moreover, they burn out at the same time. The main sign of such a malfunction is that there is no spark at all. But often there is a spark - but the engine still does not start. In this case, you need to check the spark plugs:

  • if there is no fuel or oil on the spark plugs, you should check the presence of power to the injectors (by removing the connector of one of them, you need to check the presence of voltage with a conventional tester set to 12 V DC);
  • measure the pressure in the fuel pump.

Sometimes the problem lies in the fuse that supplies power to the fuel pump. It is also advisable to replace the fuel pump with a known good one. If the car does not start only when it is hot, then the problem may lie in the engine itself. It is advisable to seek advice from a car service center or specialists.

It will not be difficult to independently check the serviceability of the engine and its other systems - you just need to use a tester. Carburetor systems are much easier to repair, but problems are often difficult to find. The injector usually requires the assistance of a specialist.

How to install a distributor on a VAZ-2106

Repair of the distributor on the “six” is necessary due to its incorrect operation, but if this part works normally, to configure it, you first need to set the marks. The latter can be seen on the engine cover.

In order to accurately set the ignition on a VAZ-2106, the risks must be correctly combined.

  1. The given 1st mark in the direction of travel looks like an advance of the angle by 10 degrees (if 72-octane gasoline is used).
  2. The mark located in the center represents an advance of the angle by 5 degrees (acceptable for cars with 80 gasoline).
  3. The last line is the zero degree lead angle. Consequently, the fuel ignites when the piston is at TDC.

The starter rotates, but there are no flashes

The next typical malfunction is the rotation of the starter in the complete absence of flashes. Here are the reasons why this could happen:

  • broken timing belt. The first thing the owner of a VAZ 2106 should do when noticing the rotation of the starter without flashes is to check the integrity of the timing belt. It's simple: the starter rotates properly, but the torque is not transmitted to the crankshaft, since there is simply nothing to transmit it to, since the timing belt has broken (or has flown off the guides - this also happens if the belt is heavily worn and begins to sag). The solution is obvious: the timing belt will have to be changed;

    Sometimes, in order to start the engine normally on a “six”, you have to change the timing belt

  • problem with spark plugs and fuel pump. This is the second reason for the lack of flashes when the starter is rotating. The spark plugs are checked as follows: the ignition key is turned, the starter makes five to seven revolutions, after which the key is removed from the lock. Then the candles are unscrewed one by one and inspected. If after a long rotation of the starter all the spark plugs remain completely dry, this indicates that the fuel mixture does not enter the combustion chamber. This means that the problem may be a broken fuel pump. Checking it is not difficult: you just need to turn the key in the ignition and listen. The working fuel pump makes a characteristic buzzing noise. And if you can only hear the sound of the starter, but there is no buzzing, the fuel pump will have to be changed;

    If the fuel pump does not work correctly, the fuel supply to the engine is disrupted and it will not start.

  • The fuel pump is ok, but the car still won't start. After unscrewing the spark plugs, the car owner sees that they are all wet. In this case, you should take the spark plug by the insulated part, touch the spark plug to the engine and ask your partner to sit in the cab and turn the starter several times. If there is no spark between the spark plug contacts, it is time to replace it.

    The VAZ 2106 may not start due to problems with the spark plugs. Then all spark plugs are replaced with new ones

The starter works, the engine starts and then stalls

In some situations, the car owner cannot start the engine of his “six” even if the starter is working properly. It looks like this: after turning the ignition key, the starter makes two or three turns, the engine “seizes”, but literally stalls a second later. This happens because of this:

  • The fuel pump is not working properly. The situation is simple: very little fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and literally after one engine stroke the supply of the fuel mixture stops. There is only one way out: remove the pump, disassemble it and carefully inspect it for wear and mechanical damage. If the problem is really in it, change it;
  • the fuel line is clogged. This is another reason why little fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers of the “six”. It's no secret that the quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired. Modern gasoline contains a lot of foreign impurities, which are gradually deposited on a variety of surfaces - from the inner walls of combustion chambers to fuel pipes. If the fuel pump and starter are working properly, but the car still won’t start, then it’s time to remove and clean the fuel line. This is best done using ordinary kerosene;
  • one or more injectors are clogged. If checking the fuel pump and fuel pipes does not lead to anything, there is one more option: unscrew and check the injectors. They keep getting clogged because of the same low-quality gasoline. And when clogged, they wash everything in the same kerosene;
  • armored wire closure. If no problems have been identified with the fuel supply system, but the car still does not start, you should pay attention to the ignition system, and in particular, to the so-called armored pipes. If the integrity of the insulation of one or more wires is broken, and the insulation at the damage site turns black, then there is a short circuit. A spark plug with a damaged wire cannot produce a spark normally, as a result the engine stalls before it can start. There is only one way out of this situation: purchasing and installing a new set of spark plug wires;

    If at least one high-voltage wire breaks down, you will have to buy a new set

  • Timing belt misalignment. The timing belt, like all other parts of the 6 engine, wears out over time. Sometimes it happens that it jumps off the timing shaft gear and moves a couple of teeth. As a result, the timing of the valve timing is disrupted and the engine does not start. If there is a suspicion that the belt is misaligned, the driver will have to unscrew the timing cover (it is held on by six bolts) and inspect the shafts. The worn belt is replaced with a new one, after which the timing phases are adjusted. You can learn how this is done from the VAZ 2106 operating instructions.

    The timing belt on a VAZ 2106 may fly off or shift by several teeth, which will cause a timing shift

Video: poor engine starting in summer due to accumulation of gasoline vapors

Poor starting of the VAZ engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

  • poor compression in the engine. This problem is very often observed in old “sixes” with high mileage: compression in the cylinders in the cold becomes very low. Not only can compression be low, but it can also be different. For example, in two cylinders it is normal, in the other two it is low. If the driver has found out that the reason for poor engine starting is low compression, and the car needs to be started urgently, then you should unscrew all the spark plugs and add a little engine oil to the combustion chambers (it is better to do this using a syringe - five “cubes” of oil in each cylinder will be sufficient). After this, you should crank the starter of the car several times without screwing in the spark plugs. The spark plugs are then screwed into place and the engine starts as the engine oil significantly increases compression in the cylinders (albeit only briefly). And to completely eliminate the problem, a major overhaul of the engine should be carried out. And in particular - replacing the piston rings. Without this, normal compression in the cylinders cannot be restored. There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid. It is sold in auto parts stores. It is injected directly into the carburetor (to do this, you will have to unscrew the air filter cover). And if you don’t want to tinker with the filter cover in the cold, you can unscrew the spark plugs and inject liquid into the combustion chambers. This is also an option, although not as effective;

    Starting fluid helps start even a completely frozen car

  • bad spark. If in summer this moment in the “six” does not prevent the driver from starting the engine, then in winter the situation can change dramatically. Most often, the problem occurs due to poor contact in various plugs, especially those located on the ignition coil and on the distributor. The fact is that the plugs on these parts very often oxidize, and this causes a decrease in spark strength. Understanding how strong a spark is is very simple. The main wire is removed from the distributor and brought to the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter. Having secured the wire in this position, turn the starter several times. If a spark reaches the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter, then everything is fine with it. If not, you should carefully check all plugs and contacts for oxidation.

    It is best to hold the spark plug when checking the spark strength using pliers with insulated handles.

We independently determine why the VAZ 2106 engine does not start

Surely any owner of a VAZ 2106 has encountered a situation where, after turning the ignition key, the engine did not start. This phenomenon has a lot of different reasons: from problems with the battery to problems with the carburetor. Let's look at the most common reasons why the engine does not start, and think about eliminating these problems.

Starter does not turn

The most common reason why a VAZ 2106 refuses to start is usually related to the starter of this car. Sometimes the starter categorically refuses to rotate after turning the key in the ignition. This is why:

  • The battery has run out. The first thing an experienced V6 owner checks is the condition of the battery. This is very simple to do: you need to turn on the low beam headlights and see if they shine brightly. If the battery is very low, the headlights will shine very dimly or not at all. The solution is obvious: you should remove the battery from the car and charge it using a portable charger;
  • one of the terminals is oxidized or poorly screwed. If there is no contact at the battery terminals or this contact is very weak due to oxidation of the contacting surfaces, the starter will not rotate either. In this case, the low beam headlights can shine normally, and all the lights on the instrument panel will light up properly. But there is not enough charge to crank the starter. Solution: after each unscrewing of the terminals, they should be thoroughly cleaned with fine sandpaper, and then a thin layer of lithol should be applied to the contact surfaces. This will protect the terminals from oxidation, and problems with the starter will no longer arise;

Video: a common problem with the starter on a “classic”

The starter rotates, but there are no flashes

The next typical malfunction is the rotation of the starter in the complete absence of flashes. Here are the reasons why this could happen:

    broken timing belt. The first thing the owner of a VAZ 2106 should do when noticing the rotation of the starter without flashes is to check the integrity of the timing belt. It's simple: the starter rotates properly, but the torque is not transmitted to the crankshaft, since there is simply nothing to transmit it to, since the timing belt has broken (or has flown off the guides - this also happens if the belt is heavily worn and begins to sag). The solution is obvious: the timing belt will have to be changed;

The starter works, the engine starts and then stalls

In some situations, the car owner cannot start the engine of his “six” even if the starter is working properly. It looks like this: after turning the ignition key, the starter makes two or three turns, the engine “seizes”, but literally stalls a second later. This happens because of this:

  • The fuel pump is not working properly. The situation is simple: very little fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and literally after one engine stroke the supply of the fuel mixture stops. There is only one way out: remove the pump, disassemble it and carefully inspect it for wear and mechanical damage. If the problem is really in it, change it;
  • the fuel line is clogged. This is another reason why little fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers of the “six”. It's no secret that the quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired. Modern gasoline contains a lot of foreign impurities, which are gradually deposited on a variety of surfaces - from the inner walls of combustion chambers to fuel pipes. If the fuel pump and starter are working properly, but the car still won’t start, then it’s time to remove and clean the fuel line. This is best done using ordinary kerosene;
  • one or more injectors are clogged. If checking the fuel pump and fuel pipes does not lead to anything, there is one more option: unscrew and check the injectors. They keep getting clogged because of the same low-quality gasoline. And when clogged, they wash everything in the same kerosene;
  • armored wire closure. If no problems have been identified with the fuel supply system, but the car still does not start, you should pay attention to the ignition system, and in particular, to the so-called armored pipes. If the integrity of the insulation of one or more wires is broken, and the insulation at the damage site turns black, then there is a short circuit. A spark plug with a damaged wire cannot produce a spark normally, as a result the engine stalls before it can start. There is only one way out of this situation: purchasing and installing a new set of spark plug wires;

Video: poor engine starting in summer due to accumulation of gasoline vapors

Poor starting of the VAZ 2107 engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

    poor compression in the engine. This problem is very often observed in old “sixes” with high mileage: compression in the cylinders in the cold becomes very low. Not only can compression be low, but it can also be different. For example, in two cylinders it is normal, in the other two it is low. If the driver has found out that the reason for poor engine starting is low compression, and the car needs to be started urgently, then you should unscrew all the spark plugs and add a little engine oil to the combustion chambers (it is better to do this using a syringe - five “cubes” of oil in each cylinder will be sufficient). After this, you should crank the starter of the car several times without screwing in the spark plugs. The spark plugs are then screwed into place and the engine starts as the engine oil significantly increases compression in the cylinders (albeit only briefly). And to completely eliminate the problem, a major overhaul of the engine should be carried out. And in particular - replacing the piston rings. Without this, normal compression in the cylinders cannot be restored. There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid. It is sold in auto parts stores. It is injected directly into the carburetor (to do this, you will have to unscrew the air filter cover). And if you don’t want to tinker with the filter cover in the cold, you can unscrew the spark plugs and inject liquid into the combustion chambers. This is also an option, although not as effective;

Popping sound when starting the VAZ 2106 engine

Popping noises when starting the engine is another unpleasant phenomenon that sooner or later every owner of a “six” encounters. Moreover, the car can “shoot” both at the muffler and at the carburetor. Let's consider these points in more detail.

Popping sounds in the muffler

If the “six” “shoots” at the muffler when starting the engine, it means that the gasoline entering the combustion chambers has completely flooded the spark plugs. Fixing the problem is quite simple: you need to remove the excess fuel mixture from the combustion chambers. To do this, when starting the engine, press the gas pedal all the way. This will ensure that the combustion chambers are quickly purged and the engine will start without unnecessary pops.

The problem is especially relevant in winter, when starting “cold”. After a long period of inactivity, the engine needs to warm up properly, and it does not need a too rich fuel mixture. If the driver forgets about this simple circumstance and does not reset the choke, then the spark plugs are flooded and popping noises inevitably occur in the muffler.

I will tell you one case that I personally witnessed. It was winter, thirty degrees below zero. A neighbor's guy in the yard was unsuccessfully trying to start his old carburetor "six". The car started, the engine ran for literally five seconds, then stalled. And so several times in a row. In the end, I recommended that he remove the choke, open the gas and try to start. The question followed: it’s winter, how can you start it without suction? He explained: you’ve already pumped too much gasoline into the cylinders, now you need to blow them out properly, otherwise you won’t go anywhere until the evening. Ultimately, the man decided to listen to me: he removed the choke, squeezed the gas all the way, and started starting. After a couple of turns of the starter, the engine started. After which I recommended that he pull out the choke a little, but not completely, and reduce it as the engine warms up. As a result, the engine warmed up properly and after about eight minutes it started working normally.

Popping sounds in the carburetor

If, when the engine starts, popping sounds are heard not in the muffler, but in the carburetor of the VAZ 2106, then this indicates that the choke is not working properly. That is, the working mixture entering the combustion chambers of the cylinders is too lean. Most often the problem occurs due to too much clearance in the carburetor choke.

This damper is actuated by a special spring-loaded rod. The spring on the rod may weaken or simply fly off. As a result, the damper stops tightly closing the diffuser, which leads to a leaner fuel mixture and subsequent “shooting” in the carburetor. It is not difficult to find out that the problem is in the damper: just unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the air filter cover and look into the carburetor. To understand that the air damper is well spring-loaded, just press it with your finger and release it. After this, it should quickly return to its original position, completely blocking the access of air. There should be no gaps left. If the damper does not adhere tightly to the walls of the carburetor, then it is time to change the damper spring (and you will have to change it along with the rod, since these parts are not sold separately).

Video: cold start of a VAZ 2106 engine

So, there are a great many reasons why the “six” may refuse to start. It is not possible to list them all in one short article, but we have analyzed the most common reasons. The vast majority of problems that prevent the engine from starting normally can be resolved by the driver himself. To do this, you need to have at least a basic understanding of the operation of the carburetor internal combustion engine installed on the VAZ 2106. The only exception is the case with reduced compression in the cylinders. To fix this problem, unfortunately, you cannot do without the help of qualified auto mechanics.

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