Why the VAZ 2106 is not charging. Why there is no charging: the main reasons. What is a generator

First of all, it is necessary to check the integrity of fuses No. 9 and 10, as well as their secure fastening in the fuse block.

In addition, even though the fuses appear to be in good working order (the fuse link has not blown), the fuse may be faulty. The fact is that despite the fact that the insert has not blown, the fuse is nevertheless faulty. Due to long service life, the tops of the fuses at their entrance to the sockets wear out. This can be determined visually. To do this, the fuse is removed from its sockets and the upper and lower parts of the fuse, which are a continuation of the fuse link, are inspected. Visually, the worn edge of the fuse will be immediately visible in the form of a circle, like a mark from the socket where it is inserted. Such fuses are replaced and charging is checked again.

If, after replacing the fuses, the VAZ 2106 still does not charge the battery, then you should continue troubleshooting.

Next, you need to check the integrity of the generator drive belt and its tension. If the belt is not torn and its tension is normal, then you need to check the condition of the drive pulleys. When the inner surface of the pulleys wears out, the alternator belt simply begins to slip, which will also contribute to the incomplete charging of the battery or there will be no charging at all. You can check this visually by looking at the inside of the pulley. If it shines, it means the belt is slipping and it was he who polished the inside of the pulley.

This pulley must be replaced together with the drive belt.

The next reason why the battery may not charge is poor contact at the battery terminals or their oxidation. The unreliable contact is tightened, and the oxidized terminals must be treated with a solution of soda and water. Soda neutralizes the oxide, after which the terminal must be rinsed with water and wiped well. To ensure that the remaining oxide is removed with fine sandpaper. Then the terminal must be lubricated, for example with Litol 24 grease. A similar operation must be done with the terminals themselves. There is no need to sand the terminals or scrape them with a knife. They are very malleable, since they are cast from lead, and three or four such procedures will noticeably reduce their diameter, which will make it impossible to properly tighten the terminals, and therefore there will be no reliable contact between them. Entrust this issue to soda and it will perfectly clean the terminals of oxide.

It is worth checking the contact points of the terminals on the generator for oxidation, which also need to be freed from oxide.

If there is no battery charging in a VAZ 2106 car, then the brushes in the generator set may be to blame.

. They may have extreme wear or jam in the brush holder sockets.

To check the brushes, the generator does not need to be removed from the vehicle, since the brush assembly is accessible and easily removed. Worn brushes are either replaced or the entire assembly is replaced. The movement of the brushes is checked by pressing. The brushes should slide into their wells easily and return easily. Otherwise, the brushes are removed and the wells are cleaned, and burrs are also removed from the brushes themselves.

The contact of the generator with the vehicle ground is also checked and, if necessary, restored. Sometimes it is enough to slightly release the fastening of the wire with ground and move the wire from side to side, which will be enough to restore reliable contact. For complete control, the wire is removed and the tip is stripped.

Possible malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 generator

The generator itself may have the following faults:

• Damage to the diode bridge (popularly known as a “horseshoe”)
• Malfunction of the stator winding - interturn short circuit, short circuit to the housing or internal break
• Malfunction of the rotor field winding, with symptoms similar to those in the stator winding. In addition, there may be a lot of wear on the contact rings, which disrupts their reliable contact with the brushes

If, when checking, there is a normal voltage of 13.5-14.2V at the generator output, and the battery is not charging, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the wire running from the generator to the battery.

The lack of charging can also be affected by a malfunction of the relay-regulator, as well as its poor contact with ground.

Also read other reviews

There were 3 cases during the winter. Frosts. In the morning a client calls and complains that there is no charger. I'm calling you to come over. He arrives and says that halfway through the journey the charging appeared. I checked everything: I rang and shook the wiring, tightened everything I could, measured all the voltages. I didn't find anything, everything is fine. He sent the client away with God, everyone remained with their own interests. On the 2nd car the same thing, except that I removed and shook (with a test on the stand) the generator to calm my conscience. I decided to figure out the 3rd car to the end and finally earn at least something. Leave the car in the cold - relax! About two hours later I start it on the street - no charger! There, on the street, I began to look at what was wrong - God forbid the malfunction disappears again. The charging lamp does not light up, there is no initial excitation. From the control (from the battery positive), the generator is excited, the wiring to the instrument panel is connected. Found what I was looking for! On the instrument panel, the connector contacts are riveted to the board (I didn’t discover America, everyone knows that). There was no contact from the charging indicator lamp in the connector. I soldered all the contacts in the connectors, because while the instrument panel was tinkering, other glitches appeared due to these rivets. It turns out that as the interior warmed up, the contact in the riveted connectors was restored. By the way, in 4 years I have never observed this in carburetor sevens; they knew how to rivet before! I called the first two cars, did the same thing, and never showed up again.

A typical problem for classics. The problem is most often in the tidy, you have to solder it.

Another solution to the problem

:

On my new 2107 (2010 model), when starting in cold weather, charging did not occur (GENERATOR - “EIGHT”). If you increase the engine speed to 2000, the battery begins to charge. Everything would be fine, but sometimes the battery charging light did not light up at all when the ignition was turned on and it was necessary to warm up the engine without charging the battery, and then when the engine was restarted, charging began. What was done on the advice of auto electrician friends: changed the brush assembly with the tablet, tightened the alternator belt, pulled the + terminal on the alternator. Removing the generator for a full inspection was extremely lazy. But it didn't help. I assumed that in the cold there is not enough current in the excitation winding (again, the VAZ engineers did not take something into account). And to increase the current, I connected contact +15 (ignition) with contact 61 (excitation winding) through a series-connected diode and a 10 Ohm, 20 W resistor. I've been driving for a year - the flight is normal, no symptoms of old problems. A diode is needed so that when the engine is turned off, the current intended for the excitation winding does not flow back into the ignition circuit. However, the phenomenon of reverse current through the charging lamp can be easily noticed: when the engine is turned off, the lamp lights up for a short time. The resistor was connected under the glove compartment, in the harness passing through the engine shield. The ignition wire (+15) is thick blue with a black stripe, the excitation wire (61) is thin brown with a white stripe. Instead of a resistor, you can use a 10 W light bulb, but IMHO, a resistor is more reliable.

No charging - main causes and troubleshooting

Owners of VAZ classics often have to deal with the problem when there is no charge for the 2106. The reasons leading to such a problem can be very different, and most likely it will not be possible to list them in full here, so we will list at least the most common of them.

1. The brushes of the VAZ 2106 generator are worn out. If the brushes are not long enough, this can lead to a situation where the VAZ 2106 battery is not charging, or when the charging is too weak. Therefore, if the VAZ 2106 battery charging light is on, first of all you should check the generator brushes of the VAZ 2106 car and, if necessary, replace them. It should be noted that the length of the brushes should not be less than 12 mm.

2. The diode bridge has failed. Poor battery charging can also be caused by burnt-out diodes of the rectifier unit, since the generator cannot fully charge the battery. To check, you need to diagnose the diode bridge and, if necessary, replace it.

3. The charging relay has failed. If the battery of a VAZ 2106 car is not charging, then the reason for this may also be a breakdown of the charging relay. As a rule, if charging on a VAZ 2106 is lost precisely for this reason, then car owners have to look for a fault for a long time until this electrical part is replaced. By the way, it must be said that it changes very easily, since it is attached with only two bolts under the hood on the right side.

4. Problems with the rotor and stator. If, after checking all of the above parts, the VAZ 2106 car battery charging light is still on, you need to diagnose the generator and be sure to check its stator and rotor, and if necessary, replace the generator.

How to connect a generator to a VAZ 2106? First, the generator is placed in its “legal” place, near the engine, and its location must be secured with a washer and bolt. After this, the lower fastening nut is put on. The generator is connected to the VAZ 2106 by two wires, the first comes from the terminal of the brush holder, and the second comes from the plug of the main terminal of the stator winding. The main difference between the output of the brush holder and the wire coming from the output of the stator winding is the absence of insulation pads.

The wire fastening nut must be attached to the generator terminal; a protective rubber cap is placed on top of the terminal. Next, screw the nut securing the generator onto the tension bar. Then the generator belt is put on the crankshaft, generator and pump pulley. The tightening of the generator fastening to the bar located under the hood is increased. After this, you should install the protective shield, carefully securing it with 12 fastening screws. That's all, the generator is installed and after that all that remains is to check it.

You should immediately look for the cause of the malfunction, because the supply of current to all electrical equipment, as well as battery charging, is at risk.

As you know, with a working generator, the battery does not require charging for many months and years, while maintaining at least 60% charge. That is, a battery with a capacity of 55 Ah, which is usually equipped with dozens, is replenished with current due to the operation of a working generator.

We diagnose and fix problems

Well, now it’s time to find out why charging disappeared and try to eliminate the reason that caused this problem. But first you need to make sure that there really is no charge. After all, an emergency lamp is not an indicator. Its relay also sometimes breaks. Yes, and the battery may be “depleted”, and charging has nothing to do with it.

To check, we need a voltmeter or tester capable of measuring a DC voltage of at least 20 V. We measure the voltage on the battery with the ignition off. Now we start the engine and set the speed to 2,000. The voltage from what was just measured should rise to 13.5-14.5 V. If its value has not changed, then we have problems.

Expert opinion

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

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Important! If the voltage after starting the engine rises above 14.5 V, then this clearly indicates a breakdown of the relay regulator. Of course, it is impossible to operate the car in this condition - the battery will simply boil away, and the on-board systems may fail. The relay needs to be changed urgently.

Fuse

The simplest operation, let's start with it. Remove the cover from the mounting block, which is located under the dashboard to the left of the driver.

We are interested in fuse F10 - it is the top one on the right (the location of the fuses is marked on the covers of the mounting block). We check visually, but better with a tester. If it is faulty, we change it and check the result. Whole? Go ahead.

Alternator drive belt

There are two options here: weak tension and wear. How to check the quality of belt tension? In a good way, you need a dynamometer here, but in a pinch you can get by with a large flat-head screwdriver. We press the belt between the crankshaft and pump pulleys with a force of approximately 10 kg. Its deflection should be 12-17 mm. We do the same in the area between the pump and generator pulleys. In this case, the deflection will be 10-15 mm.

Checking the tension of the generator drive belt

If the belt bends more, it means that it is not tensioned enough. To tighten it, you need to loosen the fixing nut on the generator adjusting bracket.

This nut secures the generator to the adjusting bracket.

We tighten the belt, moving the generator using a pry bar, and again tighten the nut properly. Checking the tension. If it is insufficient or excessive, release the nut and repeat the operation.

Important! Excessive belt tension is just as harmful as insufficient belt tension. With strong tension, the bearings of the generator and pump wear out. Therefore, when tightening the belt, you need to know when to stop.

If the inner surface of the alternator pulley is polished to a mirror finish, and the belt itself is deeply recessed into the pulley, then the belt may be very worn and requires replacement.

Wiring to the excitation winding and relay regulator

We fix one probe of the voltmeter (tester) on an area of ​​the body that is free from paint in order to obtain reliable contact with ground. Turn on the ignition and touch contact 67 of the generator with the second probe (see diagram above). There is a gray wire going to it. This pin should have +12V (battery voltage). If there is no voltage, we take a measurement at pin 67 of the relay regulator. The relay itself is located in the engine compartment on the left front wheel arch.

If there is +12 V, then carefully inspect the wire leading from the relay regulator (pin 67) to the generator. We pay special attention to the connecting block - its contacts must be clean, without blackening, signs of burning or dirt.

If there is no voltage, we take a measurement at pin 15 of the relay. If +12 V is present, the relay is faulty. If not, check for the presence of +12 V on fuse F10. Voltage must be present at both terminals of the fuse. If it is not there, then the reason is either in the ignition switch or in the wiring from the mounting block to this very lock. We find it, we eliminate it.

Important! Additionally, you need to make sure that there is good contact between the relay-regulator and the body. To do this, touch the metal part of the relay body with one probe of the device, and the positive terminal of the battery with the second. The voltmeter should show +12 V.

Brushes

We check the brushes visually. To do this, remove them from their seats and carefully inspect the working part (end). It should be smooth, polished, without signs of burning or chipping. The length of the brushes should not be less than 12 mm.

We remove the brushes and check visually

When checking the wear of the generator brushes, do not forget that one of them must have good contact with the generator body. The output of this brush is pressed against the generator with a screw, which simultaneously secures the brush block. Therefore, after installing the block in place, we check the presence of such a contact using an ohmmeter.

This brush lead must have good contact with the generator housing

Field winding

Disconnect the wire from terminal 67 of the generator. We touch the positive terminal of the battery with one multimeter probe, and contact 67 of the generator with the second. The device should show 12 V. If there is no voltage, then either the rotor winding is broken, or we have not checked the brushes properly.

In the first case, the generator will have to be replaced, in the second, the brushes will have to be checked again, and if possible, replaced. There is another reason for this problem - the wear and tear of the rotor slip rings to which the brushes adhere. To check them, you will have to disassemble the generator.

Healthy! All these operations, except for measuring the voltage on the battery, can be carried out not with a multimeter, but with a test lamp - a side light bulb with two pieces of wire. It's simpler and more visual.

Diode bridge

Since the generator is three-phase, the rectifier bridge consists of six diodes, which are located in the generator itself on a horseshoe-shaped radiator. It is also a diode current collector. To check the semiconductors, the generator will have to be removed and partially disassembled.

Disassembly involves removing the back cover covering the diode bridge. We remove the cover and disconnect all the wires leading to the windings from the diodes - they are attached to the petals under the nut.

Here we again need a multimeter, but turned on in diode testing mode (not measuring resistance!). We ring each diode first in the forward direction, then in the reverse direction. In the first case, the multimeter will show a resistance of several hundred Ohms, in the second - infinity (very high resistance, the multimeter does not respond to it).

If the diode rings in both directions, then it is “broken.” If it doesn’t ring at all, it’s broken. In both cases, the semiconductor is faulty, but it is tightly pressed into the horseshoe radiator, so the entire rectifier unit will have to be replaced.

Expert opinion

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

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Important! When performing testing, you need to keep in mind that for one half of the diodes the anode is the body, and the cathode is made as a separate terminal, for the other half it is the other way around. Although outwardly all semiconductors look the same.

Basic problems

If the generator begins to act up, then the main causes of the malfunction should be sought either in the on-board network, or these are problems with the generator itself. If the generator gives a charge, but not enough, then perhaps it has been “loaded” too much by installing many other gadgets in addition to the standard electrical equipment, and it is already working at the limit of its capabilities.

Our motorists really love tuning the VAZ 2110, adding, for example, speaker power, enhancing the light, etc. In such cases, some people change the battery, for example, installing it with a capacity of 70 Ah, instead of the usual VAZ one with 55 Ah.

But although this may help at first, over time such a battery will run out even faster, since a standard generator will not be able to provide it with a full charge; it does not have enough power for this.

The reasons for battery discharge are described in detail in the following material:

troubleshooting

To accurately determine the source of the problem with the generator, you need to perform a basic check. If you do not have “additional” energy consumers, you can immediately look for generator faults; if there are any, turn them all off for a while. Moreover, do not turn it off, but simply disconnect it from the car.

Test plan:

1. Measure the current output on a cold car, when it is not running and all its life support systems are turned off. It will be ideal if there is no return at all. But this happens extremely rarely. On almost every VAZ 2110, somewhere due to insufficient contact, local short circuit, etc. There is still a small return. But - just a small one, and not one in which the battery can run out during a night of parking;
2. If everything is normal, there are no current leaks, or they are negligible, the battery is not discharged, reconnect all those devices that you (no matter, independently or with the help of hired specialists) installed on your car on your own initiative. Repeat the same check. If it turns out that current is actively leaking, it means that the reason is not in the battery and is not related to the generator; it is the device not provided for by the designers of the VAZ 2110 that is to blame;
3. But if even then no kickback is detected, we proceed to a thorough examination of the generator. And here there are many possible malfunctions: there is not enough contact between the brushes and the rotor rings; there is a break in the field winding; an interturn short circuit is possible directly in the field winding coil. At the same time, the generator heats up and hums; the field winding may short-circuit to the rotor housing; breaks can also occur in the stator phase winding; the stator can short-circuit to the housing; Possible short circuit of the “plus” to the housing; can break through diodes in the rectifier unit; Mechanical failures are also high on this list.

Now let's look at all of the above generator malfunctions in more detail.

No charging on VAZ 2106

Checking the generator connection diagram if there is no charging on the VAZ 2106.

Checking the circuit when there is no charge on the VAZ 2106 is quite simple and the check takes about 10 - 15 minutes.
Let me remind you that when checking the charge with an electronic voltage regulator, do not under any circumstances remove the terminals from the battery while the engine is running. Use a voltmeter or multimeter when checking. The most common reason when there is no charging on a VAZ 2106 is the failure of the voltage regulator. To check, disconnect the terminals from the regulator and connect them to each other with the engine running. If the circuit and generator are working properly, the voltage at the battery terminals will tend to the maximum and can reach 17V or more. If the voltage begins to rise, then the circuit and generator are working, and the regulator needs to be replaced.

If the voltage does not begin to increase, then you should check the voltage on the wire that is connected to terminal 15 of the regulator with a test lamp or voltmeter. If there is no power, check the power supply at the 9th fuse and the serviceability of the fuse. If normal, repair the break in the power supply wires of the fuse or from the fuse to the regulator. Most often, the wire simply falls off the fuse block terminal.

If there is power on the wire of terminal 15, then test the integrity of the generator excitation circuit. To do this, connect one end of the test lamp to the positive of the battery, and touch the other end, disconnected from the voltage regulator, to the wire that is connected to terminal 67 of the regulator. If the control lamp is on, then the wire from the voltage regulator to the generator is working. The brushes and armature winding are also in good condition. The lack of charging in this case is caused by a malfunction of the rectifier (diode bridge) in the generator. If the control lamp does not light up, then check the serviceability of the wire from the regulator to the generator by disconnecting it from the latter and connecting it to ground. The lighting of the control lamp indicates the serviceability of the wire and a possible malfunction of the brushes or armature winding. In this case, it is necessary to remove and repair the generator.

Alternator malfunction if there is no charging on the VAZ 2106.

The reason when there is no charging on the VAZ 2106 is possible when the generator malfunctions, when the voltage drops when the load is turned on at medium engine speeds. This may be caused by a faulty alternator rectifier or a slipping drive belt. Determining this with a degree of probability is quite simple. With normal drive belt tension, measure the voltage at the generator terminals at medium engine speeds without turning on consumers. The voltage should be between 13.5 - 14.5V. If the voltage gradually drops when the load is turned on, this indicates a malfunction of the rectifier. If the voltage drops with a sharp increase in speed and can gradually increase to normal, then this indicates slipping of the drive belt. Critical wear of the drive belt is also indicated by the shine of the bottom of the generator pulley. In this case, even a tightened belt will slip and should be replaced. If, when installing a new belt, it sinks significantly into the pulley groove, then the pulley is worn out and needs to be replaced. Another reason for the voltage drop, and in some cases, the lack of battery charge, can be a violation of the contact between the wire connecting the negative terminal of the battery and the car body.

If the voltage at the battery terminals is higher than 14.5V, then you need to check the voltage at terminal 15 of the voltage regulator relay. If it differs by more than 0.5V, then it is necessary to find and eliminate the contact point in the circuit from the battery plus to the regulator. The most common places are the ignition switch contact group and the fuse box. If the voltage at the relay is not low, then check the contact of the negative terminal of the relay, the metal plate under one of the relay mounting bolts, and the car body. if there are no abnormalities in the contacts, change the voltage regulator.

Winding break

If the excitation winding is broken, then there is no charging of the battery. To determine this, it is often enough to place your hand on the generator. When it breaks, it heats up. For an accurate check, you need to disconnect the end of the excitation winding from the brush, connect the battery wires to it, and connect the battery wires to terminal Ш of the generator (via a voltmeter or a light bulb).

If there is a break, the voltmeter needle will not deflect and the light bulb will not light up. To find which of the coils prevents the generator from working, connect the wires from the battery to each individually. Finally, check the soldering and coil terminals. If the break is internal, the coil needs to be replaced; for external ones, soldering helps.

Mechanical problems

The first place among the mechanical problems of the VAZ 2110 is belt stretching. In this case, the generator pulley usually gets very hot. In addition, the battery is not sufficiently charged. Also inspect everything for poor contact, breakage, etc.

Therefore, regardless of whether your car has a carburetor or an injector, it is better not to joke with the generator, but if malfunctions are detected, respond quickly to them.

If the generator stops charging, there is nothing good about it. It is necessary to immediately begin searching for the cause of such a malfunction. Otherwise, all your electrical equipment will be without power, and the battery will soon run out completely.

If the generator works well, then the battery will not need additional charging with special devices for many months, sometimes even years. The battery will consistently retain at least 60% charge. Thus, the batteries are constantly replenishing their charge reserve through the operation of the generator.

What is on the VAZ 2110

For VAZ 2110 cars, the installation of two types of generators is provided, depending on the installed engine.

1. For carburetor models, a generator with number 9402.3701 is installed.
2. If the engine is injection, then the catalog number of the generator used will be 3202-3771. It has a serpentine belt.

Regardless of the type of installed engine and generator, respectively, problems with the devices are the same, therefore the inspection and repair procedure is identical in both cases.

Malfunctions

There are two main reasons why an alternator stops charging properly.

What charge does the generator produce?

Many people are interested in the question of how much a generator should produce for normal operation.

Here the parameters directly depend on the current state of the car.

• If the engine is cold and just turns on, then the voltage will normally be 14.1-14.4 Volts;
• If you check the voltage after long trips in traffic jams, then the generator will produce less, about 13.9-14.1V.

How to check the generator relay regulator with your own hands

Having examined the device and principle of operation, you can proceed to testing. It is noteworthy that it is quite possible to check the relay regulator in an ordinary garage. To do this, you need to have a regular multimeter with a scale of up to 35 volts, a set of wrenches and screwdrivers.

• A simple method for checking the generator regulator on a VAZ 2106 assumes the following: a well-charged battery is needed for testing. To perform diagnostics, you need to start the internal combustion engine, turn on the headlights and leave the engine running for 10-15 minutes, while the engine speed does not increase above 2 thousand rpm. Next, you need to use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the battery terminals. The norm is no higher than 14 Volts and no lower than 12 Volts.

• The second test method should be used when the problem is “floating” (the voltage at the battery terminals is slightly less than 12 Volts or slightly higher than 14 Volts). In such a situation, the regulator must be checked separately by removing it. To check, use a multimeter and a 12 volt light bulb.

Having examined the regulator of the VAZ 2106 generator, you can find a pair of outputs (on the diagrams often marked with the letters B and C). The indicated contacts must be supplied with power from the battery. Two more relay contacts go to the generator brushes. A lamp is connected to the indicated contacts.

If the voltage at the outputs when power is supplied from the battery is not higher than 14 volts, the light will light brightly. If you use a multimeter to increase the voltage at the power supply outputs to 15 volts or higher, the light should go out. If this does not happen, then the regulator has failed. If the light does not light up initially, both in the first and second cases, then the relay needs to be changed.

• Replacing the VAZ 2106 generator regulator involves selecting a suitable device. It is important to immediately determine what type of device is on the generator (external regulator, internal regulator). The external regulator is located on the front left arch (in the area of ​​the front wheel). The internal regulator is removed after removing the air filter, since the filter blocks access to the generator.

Then the relay is carefully pulled out of the generator cover, after which the wires and contact block are removed. When removing the block, special care must be taken, since the contacts are fragile. Next, a new regulator is installed and reassembled.

• Please note that external regulators for the VAZ 2106 are almost impossible to find new for sale. We have to pay for used devices. So, the real condition of such a regulator is difficult to visually determine, that is, a check is necessary before purchasing (you can use the methods discussed above).

Regarding internal regulators, the main problem is the wires connected to the relay from the generator. Very often, when replacing, they break in the area of ​​the contact block. If this happens, you will need to cut the block, resolder the wires, make high-quality insulation, and then glue the block back together.

To avoid such problems, when replacing the internal regulator of the VAZ 2106 generator, you need to be extremely careful, do not repair the car in the cold, since the wires break more easily in such conditions, etc.

Troubleshooting

Lack of charging can be caused by a wide range of reasons, which we will talk about today.

These reasons include:

• Weak contacts;
• Winding breaks;
• Short circuit on the rotor housing;
• Interturn short circuits;
• Mechanical breakdowns;
• Closing the positive clamp on the body;
• Short circuit in the phase winding;
• Short circuit of the stator to the housing.

Let's look at these situations in more detail to determine the true cause of the breakdown specifically in your case.

Start by turning off all additional equipment in your car that is not included as standard - DVR, navigator, audio system, etc.

1. Measure the current output when the vehicle is cold, not running and all life support systems are disconnected. If there is no return at all, that's good. But this rarely happens. Almost always on tens there may be insufficient contact, some kind of short circuit, due to which there is recoil, but it is small. It’s much worse if the recoil is impressive and leads to battery discharge in one night spent in a parking lot or garage.
2. If everything is normal, there are no strong current leaks or they are insignificant, and the battery has retained its charge, then you can return all the devices to the places that were installed additionally.
3. Recheck the recoil. If at the same time the instruments show an active leak, then the reason does not lie in the battery and is not related to the generator. The culprit of the problem is one of the additionally connected devices.
4. If no recoil is observed, then you need to carefully inspect the generator.
5. There are many sources of trouble that can lead to generator failure. These include:

• Insufficient contact between the rotor rings and brushes;
• There was a break in the excitation winding;
• An interturn short circuit has occurred on the field winding coil. In this case, the generator will hum and get very hot;
• The field winding closes to the rotor housing;
• The stator shorts to the housing;
• A break occurs in the stator phase winding;
• The diodes have broken through in the rectifier block, that is, the diode bridge;
• The plus is shorted on the body;
• Mechanical problems have occurred.

Problem solving

1. Poor contact. Loose contact can occur due to contamination, oil getting on the brushes, slip rings. Also, contact may deteriorate due to shrinkage of the springs that press on the brushes, or the brushes are stuck. Such phenomena lead to an increase in excitation resistance and can sometimes break the circuit. To eliminate the problem, sometimes it is enough to simply treat the surfaces with a rag soaked in gasoline. If the brushes are worn out, it is better to replace them. At the same time, check the condition of the springs and rings. The rings oxidize, so treat them with glass sandpaper.

1. The winding has broken. If this happens, the battery will no longer charge. To determine the problem, place your hand on the battery. If there is a break, the device will begin to heat up. If you want a more accurate check, then disconnect the end of the field winding from the brush and connect the battery wires to it and terminal Ш using a voltmeter or a light bulb. If there is a break, the lamp will not light up and the voltmeter needle will not budge. Test each coil individually to determine which one is preventing the alternator from working. The internal coils must be replaced, and the internal coils must be soldered.

1. Short circuit between turns. An interturn short circuit can occur in any field winding coil. If such a situation occurs, the winding will begin to heat up, and the excitation current will increase. To check, be sure to measure the resistance of each coil. For this you will need a voltmeter.

1. Short circuit on the rotor housing. Such a breakdown leads to the fact that the entire field winding is short-circuited. The generator stops working. The most common short circuit area is where the ends of the winding lead to the rotor rings. To check, use a 220V light bulb. One wire should be connected to any contact of the ring, and the second to the rotor core or shaft. If there is a short circuit, then the light will turn on. It is impossible to operate a car with such a generator. It is necessary to isolate or completely replace the faulty winding. The first option is only suitable for getting to a service station and carrying out a full repair.

1. Short circuit on phase winding. This kind of problem occurs because the insulation between the turns of the stator coil is destroyed. If this happens, the generator will start to get very hot, the battery will not receive sufficient charge, as this happens at high crankshaft speeds.
2. Short circuit of the stator to the housing. As is the case with the other listed short circuit options, in this situation the generator begins to overheat, hum, and its power drops significantly. To check you will need a 220V light bulb. One wire is connected to the core, and the second to the winding terminal. Any. If there is a short circuit, your light bulb will light up. To fix the problem, simply replace the failed coil.
3. The positive terminal closes to the housing. This kind of malfunction is unpleasant because it does not just overheat your generator. Also, due to this short circuit, breakdown of the diodes of the rectifier unit occurs. From there, the problem goes to the battery, which can simply short out. Not infrequently, a short circuit led to complete failure of the battery. Although most often it just completely discharges.
4. Mechanical problems. If we take into account all possible mechanical problems of the generator, then belt stretching will be in first place in terms of frequency. This is the most common breakdown in the case of the VAZ 2110. If this happens, the pulley will begin to seriously overheat and the battery will not have enough charge. It is not superfluous to check the quality of all contacts, the presence of broken connections and other possible mechanical problems.

If problems are detected with the generator, you should immediately begin measures aimed at eliminating the breakdown. If you have no experience, contact only trusted service stations.

The alternator is the heart of your vehicle's electrical system. Like the main human organ, it provides power to all instruments and devices. Therefore, you should treat it very carefully and if problems arise, do not delay repairs.

Home » Chassis » Why the VAZ 2106 is not charging. Why there is no charging: the main reasons. What is a generator

Causes of charging failure and their elimination

If the battery for the VAZ 2106 begins to work less reliably, it is necessary to diagnose the electrical circuit. To do this, you may need a tester (voltmeter or multimeter).

If the VAZ 2106 does not have a charger, the reasons may be the following:

• The VAZ 2106 battery charging indicator may light up when the engine is running if the generator belt is worn out or its tension is very weak;
• the malfunctions lie in the mechanism itself - the generator brushes could wear out, the diode bridge or armature could fail, the coils could also burn out;
• if the battery is not charging, the reason may be a faulty voltage regulator;
• The reason why the indicator may light up may be an open circuit.

As practice shows, one of the most common malfunctions is relay failure. To diagnose its performance, you will need to remove the wires from the element and short-circuit them to each other - in this case the motor should start. If all other system components are operational, the voltage in this area should be 17 volts or higher. If this parameter does not increase, you will need to check whether there is voltage at the terminal that is connected to terminals 15 of the relay (there should be +12 volts). If the parameter is missing, you need to diagnose the safety element that is responsible for the circuit; if the fuse is working, then you need to check the circuit itself (the author of the video is the WORLD OF USEFUL ADVICE channel).

If there is power at the terminal, and the indicator continues to light up on the device, then you should diagnose the contacts in the excitation circuit of the mechanism. To do this, you will need to connect a light bulb between the positive terminal of the battery and the cable connected to output 67 of the regulatory component. You will be able to diagnose the wiring in the relay-generator section, and the check will also show whether the brushes of the mechanism and the windings of the so-called armature are operational. If there is no current here, most likely the problem should be looked for in the rectifier bridge.

The next stage of diagnostics will be to check the functionality of the conductor from the generator unit. For diagnostics, you will need to disconnect the terminal from the mechanism and connect it to a -12 V battery. If the control light is on, this indicates problems with the brushes or a broken armature. If you think that the problem lies specifically in the generator device, then it must be dismantled and a more detailed check and disassembly be carried out. All failed elements must be replaced.

As mentioned above, when the engine is running, the voltage in the network should be from 13.5 to 14.3 volts. If, when driving at low speeds, the VAZ battery charging light comes on and then disappears, while the engine power periodically decreases, in this case you need to check the strap. There is a possibility that it will need to be tightened and adjusted.

Much less frequently, but it still happens that the cause of such a problem is poor contact at the battery terminals. If the voltage level on the battery is higher than necessary, it is necessary to diagnose the contacts in the area from the positive terminal to the regulatory element. If you find that all contacts are normal, then you need to replace the relay itself.

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