Connecting armored pipelines VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves

Where did all this even start? Yes, because one day after work I started the car and realized that it was a complete mess. I opened the hood and looked. I think we need to check which cylinders are working. I take the wire of the first cylinder. And then the machine gave me a thousand pricks from the discharge that this wire emitted... Everything is clear, it breaks through. Having warmed up to 40 degrees, the tripping disappeared o_O. Ok, you can live. went home. I started thinking about what to do with the wires that I bought a year and a half ago. "Elephant". I looked at how much new ones cost - 900 or more, silicone wires. Hmm...a little expensive.

I started digging into the drive. And then I remember that I saw an article about homemade explosive wires. 1 minute in Google and 15 articles on the drive are ready to read. Someone makes it from ZIL wires, there is a copper core - the resistance tends to 0. Someone makes a corrector vacuum from acoustic wires and silicone hoses. I settled on this decision. The article that I took as the BASIS! Special thanks for the advice Stuff0rd McSystem

What we need: — MGTF wire -0.35mm 2 meters (enough almost point-blank). (I came across this brand of wire by accident in the comments) I read that the cross-section is not so important as the insulation of the wire, and that 0.2-0.5 cross-section is enough for the eyes. — Silicone vacuum corrector hoses 3 pcs. — Heat shrink 8mm (more than the diameter of the hoses) — 2 meters. - BB wires. - VDeshka - Someone’s mother... (Required!)

1. First, we take the old (or the only ones - like I did) wires and begin to disassemble them. I simply pulled the terminal on the spark plug side out of the insulator. It's hard but it works out. But the corner terminal must be carefully disassembled and the wire pushed towards the terminal so as not to damage it. Since I also pulled out the first one by force and almost broke it at the bend))

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor, injector)

The ignition module on injection VAZ 2109 is deservedly considered one of the most complex electrical components. If the injectors have a module, then the carburetors have the simplest coil.

The actual, but incredibly important task of the module is the generation of high voltage current, which can reach 30 thousand watts. The current follows high-voltage wires to the spark plugs, which create a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture.

The classic ignition coil is one of the components of the module, so the system works on a much more complex principle than on carburetors.

Video on repairing KZ VAZ

Ignition of gasoline in the cylinders of an internal combustion engine occurs using a spark generated by the ignition system. The ignition module is the main element of the system, creating a spark on the spark plugs using high voltage. Each car manufacturer develops and produces its own original module, but the principle of its operation is the same for all devices. During operation, deviation from the specified parameters or breakdown of the ignition module negatively affects engine operation until the power unit fails.

High voltage wires

Often, the main difficulty when repairing a carburetor VAZ 2109 is the reconnection of high-voltage wires that were previously disconnected from the distributor cover. It's also an ignition distributor.

The difficulty is that many people forget the connection procedure or simply do not know. But in practice, returning high-voltage wires is much easier than understanding the ignition module used on the injection VAZ 2109.

By following a few simple rules, you can easily return the wires to their rightful places.

1. The ignition distributor cover is installed in its place, that is, on the distributor, only in a single position. Therefore, even if you wanted to, you won’t be able to confuse anything here. Otherwise the lid simply won't fit.
2. There is an installation mark on the cover, which indicates the location of the wire socket from the first cylinder.
3. The wires must be connected in the following sequence - 1, 3, 4, 2. Move counterclockwise when looking at the distributor cover from the side of the expansion tank.

If for some reason there are no installation marks on the VAZ 2109 carburetor distributor cover, just follow the connection principle shown in the image.

VAZ models 8 and 16 valves

Despite the similarity in engine design, the ignition system of the 1.5-liter injection 16-valve engine differs from the 1.6 16-valve engine. The 1.6 liter engine uses an electronic contactless ignition system with individual coils on each spark plug. Therefore, there was no need for an ignition module. Such a system is more reliable and cheaper to operate, since if one coil fails, there is no need to replace the entire module.

The 16-valve 1.5-liter VAZ 2112 injection engine used the same non-contact ignition system as the 8-valve engine, but a different ignition module was installed. Its catalog number is 2112-3705010. The design of the module remains the same - two ignition coils (for cylinders 1-4 and 2-3) plus switch keys in a single block.

Features of the ignition module

Now let's talk about a more complex issue - the ignition module and its design features.

The design includes several components, each of which has its own nuances.

Component

Peculiarities

There are always two coils on a VAZ 2109. This mechanism is responsible for generating current

Switch keys also work together. Through them, the current goes to the spark plugs, plus the controller regulates the time the current is turned on, which is calculated by receiving information from the crankshaft sensor

Electronic control unit

Responsible for distributing information in the form of electronic impulses

High-strength plastic is used for its manufacture, which largely ensures the durability and reliability of the device.

Ignition coil

Location

Any work related to repair, testing, and maintenance of the ignition module will be impossible to perform if you do not know basic things - the location of the device.

You can find the ignition module (ignition module) in the engine compartment. Find the high voltage wires that go to the spark plugs. One end is connected to them, and the other goes to the module. The MZ is small in size and enclosed in a plastic housing.

Device location

Principle of operation

Initially, on carburetor cars, the system worked due to the presence of an ignition coil. With injectors everything is somewhat different.

• Initially, the ignition coil is turned on, generating a high voltage current. The coil operates on the principle of magnetic induction;
• Then the electronic control unit MZ is connected to the work, performing the functions of control, transmitting commands, and ensuring the flow of current required by the characteristics to the spark plugs;
• Next, the spark plugs activate the spark, ignition occurs, and so on.

MH malfunctions

The ignition module often shows the most basic sign of failure - lack of spark. But this is not the only indicator of a malfunction. These also include:

• Lack of dynamics when accelerating the car. Trying to quickly pick up speed, you can clearly feel failures in engine operation;
• The engine does not produce the usual power; in some cases, the engine is not able to pull the car uphill;
• The idle speed fluctuates;
• One of the pairs of engine cylinders refuses to work. Here, most likely, there is no current that should come from the ignition coil.

Version of the module on the 8-valve VAZ-2110

At different times, different engines were installed on the VAZ-2110 car, both carburetor and injection. However, regardless of the type of power system and the number of valves (8 or 16), all engines are assembled on the unit base of the old engine 21083 and 21093. The most progressive of these engines is the 16-valve 1.6-liter VAZ 21124 engine with a power of 89 horsepower.

The top ten was equipped with two 8-valve engines of different sizes - 1.5 (2111) and 1.6 liters (21114). The ignition modules for these engines are different.

1. The one and a half liter engine has a module with article number 2112-3705010,
2. and the 1600 cc engine is equipped with module 2111-3705010.

A module for a 1.5 liter engine costs about 1500-2100, and the second one is 500 rubles cheaper.

The main task of the module is to distribute a high-quality spark sufficient to ignite the working mixture.

If this does not happen, problems begin with the motor:

1. power drop;
2. high gasoline consumption;
3. failures during acceleration;
4. unstable idle speed;
5. engine failure when starting.

Different engines were installed on cars of this brand over the years. Some car owners have carburetor engines, while others have injection engines. Engines have different numbers of valves and types of power systems. There can be eight or sixteen valves. The motors for them were assembled on the basis of old engines 21083 and 21093.

The best of them is considered to be the sixteen-valve VAZ 21124, with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of eighty-nine horsepower.

The top ten may have an eight-valve engine 2111, with a volume of one and a half liters, or an engine 21114, with a volume of 1.6 liters. The difference between them is in the ignition modules.

The module for a one and a half liter engine has the article number 2112-3705010, and the module with a volume of one thousand six hundred cubic meters has the article number 2111-3705010. They also differ in price. If the cost of the first ranges from one and a half thousand rubles to 2100, then the cost of the second is cheaper by about five hundred rubles.

Module structure

It consists of two ignition coils and two high-voltage switch switches. The coils are designed to create high-voltage pulses.

In essence, it is a simple transformer that has two windings: a primary winding, with an induction voltage of approximately five hundred Volts, and a secondary winding, with an inductive voltage of at least twenty kiloVolts. Everything is placed in one housing with one connector for signal wires and four for high-voltage.

Schematic diagram of the VAZ 2110 module

The operation of the ignition module is based on the “idle spark principle”. The module is capable of distributing a spark in pairs: to the first and fourth, second and third cylinders when transmitting pulses from the electronic control unit.

You can ring the VAZ-2110 ignition module yourself.

The main task of the module is to supply current to the spark plugs. A high-quality spark is enough to ignite the working mixture. If there is no spark, then problems with the engine are inevitable in the form of a decrease in power, an increase in fuel consumption, dips during acceleration, the speed fluctuates, and the engine refuses to work during startup.

If one coil fails, two cylinders stop functioning. This is easy to notice, since the engine becomes heated at idle, starting is difficult, gasoline consumption increases sharply, and dynamics are lost.

We remove the connector from the VAZ 2110 module by slightly moving the latch and pulling the wire.

We check the voltage between pin 15 and the block ground.

Circuit for checking the primary windings

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeK9vNJr0xg

Secondary winding test circuit

Scheme for checking the module for short circuit

You need to make sure the spark plugs are working. They are unscrewed and the spark is checked separately on each of the spark plugs. A high-voltage wire is placed on the spark plug head. The spark plug is placed in such a way that the threaded part of the spark plug and the engine mass are in contact. If, when cranking the engine with the starter, the spark is very weak or absent altogether, then it needs to be replaced.

First of all, the body is carefully inspected, the surface of which must be intact. If chips, cracks or burns are detected, then the module must definitely be replaced.

If spark instability is noticed only on the first and fourth, or second and third cylinders, then the conclusion arises that some coil is damaged.

Even if this is the case, due diligence needs to be done.

Checking the VAZ-2110 ignition module with a multimeter 8 valves is as follows:

1. The connector with signal wires is disconnected from the module.
2. It is then removed from the module. The latch must be moved to the side and pulled by the wire.
3. The ignition is turned on to check the voltage at the terminal of the central block of control wires. If there is no voltage when the battery is charged, or if the value is less than the nominal value, which is twelve volts, it is concluded that the electronic control unit is faulty.
4. The high-voltage wires are removed, and it is necessary to unscrew and remove the module mounting bots.
5. The resistance on the primary windings of the coils is checked. The multimeter is set to resistance measurement mode. Using the device, readings are taken from the rightmost and central terminals, then the leftmost and central ones are checked. The nominal resistance should be about 0.5 ohms.
6. The primary windings are checked. The resistance in the secondary windings is measured between the terminals of the first and fourth, second and third high-voltage wires. Nominal resistance 5.4 kiloohms. If a discrepancy is found, it means that the coil is not operating correctly.
7. The module is checked for a short circuit. One of the tester probes is installed on the central terminal, the other on the metal body. If there is no indication of a short circuit, a conclusion is drawn that the housing of one of the coils is short-circuited.

Errors

The error scanner detects a module malfunction. If the error codes are P-3000, P-3001, P-3002, P-3003 and P-3004, this is a lack of sparks. This means that the problem is either in the module itself, or the spark plugs are faulty, or the high-voltage wires, or the electronic control unit.

If the error code is P-0351, then the coil of the first to fourth cylinders is faulty, with the code P-0352 the second to third.

Such a scan does not say anything about the functionality of the module. The problem may be in the spark plugs or broken high-voltage wires. But if they were diagnosed before testing, then the ignition module is definitely to blame.

Here the car owner makes the decision. Only he can decide to repair it himself, or buy a new one. Choosing the second option will be simpler and faster, guaranteeing uninterrupted operation of the ignition system.

Many car owners are faced with the problem of their car not starting. If it suddenly turns out that high voltage has disappeared on the cylinders (either only on one, or on several at once), or the warning lamp does not light up, there is no spark, then the engine will not work. The ignition module may have failed. It's not always worth rushing to stores to look for something new.

Those who own a VAZ-2110 car are offered an alternative - repairing the ignition module themselves. The main thing is to have basic knowledge of auto electricians and the ability to understand circuits and contacts. It’s also a good idea to know how to use a digital multimeter in your work.

In order to disassemble the ignition module, you will also need knowledge of its components. This is a pair of ignition coils designed to excite high-voltage pulses, and a two-channel switch. Basically, high-frequency pulses can disappear in the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. You will have to start by removing the ignition module. The high-voltage wires are disconnected, then the VAZ-2110 ignition module itself is removed.

Unscrew the bolts

We get the board

Reassembling the sensor in reverse order

The essence of the repair is as follows:

• To open the aluminum plate you will need a straight screwdriver.
• Looking at the inside of the module, it may seem that everything is very complicated. Attention should be paid to the printed circuit board, which is coated with transparent silicone. The sealant is removed. To make the wires with which the board is connected to the contacts of the connectors and coils, too soft aluminum is used, so they become unusable. Such wires are torn off and thrown away. What should I put in place?
• You will need a computer mouse, which will have to be disassembled. It only requires stranded wires.
• The ignition module circuit includes two L497D1 switches, which are also manufactured by two fairly powerful transistors. The contacts are aluminum, so for soldering you will need a special flux for aluminum.
• First, the wires are soldered to the board itself. During manufacturing, the collectors are coated on top with a special metal that cannot be soldered. Therefore, before soldering the wires, the coating is removed from the metal.
• Then the plate is placed on the stove and heated to one hundred and eighty degrees, the heat will be distributed throughout the plate. This is important so that when the soldering iron comes into contact with the plate, the heat does not dissipate from it.
• Now you can proceed directly to soldering the wires to the module contacts. Try to make the wires as short as possible. Next, take a varnish (the varnish you use to paint your nails will also work), and use it to insulate the joints.
• Next, you need to check the ignition module. It must be functional. And the final touch: the inner surface is coated with autosealant, after which the assembly is completed. The wires should be positioned freely and not be pinched.

The work is not that difficult, and can be done by anyone who can work with a soldering iron and have basic knowledge of electronics.

If after repair it turns out that the cause of the malfunction was different, then this reason needs to be found, or go to the store for a new module.

Firing order

The cylinders in a car do not work chaotically, because for stable operation of the engine and alternate execution of all four strokes, their strict synchronization is required.

So there is a special order of operation of the cylinders of the VAZ 2114, thanks to which each of them at one point in time performs any of 4 strokes, namely:

1. Injection of a mixture of fuel and air that fills the entire volume of the cylinder.
2. Compression of the working mixture due to the upward movement of the piston.
3. The combustion of the working mixture and the expansion of the resulting gases pushes the piston in the opposite direction, thereby driving the connecting rod and crankshaft.
4. The release of exhaust gases from the cylinder with their further discharge into the exhaust system.

Armored wires and their connections

Having found out how the location of the VAZ 2114 cylinders affects their connection, it is worth talking about the high-voltage wires with which this is done.

These wires themselves are quite different from ordinary electrical wires - they have an increased layer of insulation, protective shielding, as well as metal connecting tips and protective caps made of heat-resistant plastic. The main purpose of these wires is to transmit a high-voltage pulse from the ignition unit to the cylinders (it is this pulse that allows the spark plugs to ignite the working mixture).

The connection of armored wires should be made taking into account the ignition order of the VAZ 2114 injector and the numbering of the cylinders (this was mentioned above). For greater convenience, you should be guided by the numbering present on the ignition module - just connect socket number 1 to the corresponding cylinder, socket number 2 to cylinder number 2, etc. It is extremely difficult to make any mistake here.

Do-it-yourself replacement of armored wires on a VAZ 2112

1 – tip of the wire of the first cylinder; 2 – tip of the wire of the second cylinder; 3 – tip of the wire of the third cylinder; 4 – plastic bracket securing the high-voltage wire of the third cylinder; 5 – ignition module; 6 – tip of the wire of the fourth cylinder; 7 – plastic bracket for fastening high-voltage wires of the first, second and fourth cylinders

In order to replace the armor wires of a VAZ 2112, you must perform the following procedure:

1. We prepare the car for work (see “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair”) and turn off the ignition.
2. Remove the engine decorative trim.

   

3. Remove the wire tip from the spark plug well.
4. Disconnect the other end of the high-voltage wire from the ignition module.
5. Remove the wire from the first cylinder.

   

6. Similarly, we remove the high-voltage wires of other engine cylinders.

High voltage wires are not interchangeable. The wires must be connected to the ignition module in accordance with the cylinder serial number

How to choose high-voltage wires

When choosing new high-voltage wires for your car, you should be guided by their two most important parameters - resistance and breakdown voltage. So, the less resistance the armor wire core has, the better it will transmit the impulse from the module to the spark plugs, and the easier it will be to ignite.

As for the second factor, this is the maximum voltage value, above which there is a risk of insulation breakdown, which can result in a number of unpleasant consequences. In addition, when choosing wires, you should pay attention to secondary indicators, for example, insulation resistance to cold, etc.

According to survey results, most car enthusiasts prefer high-voltage wires from Tesla - they have good performance, reliability, and are also resistant to cold and caustic substances.

Pinout, connection diagram and check of the VAZ ignition coil

Today we will look at the design and diagrams of ignition systems for VAZ cars of all major models. Since carburetor versions of VAZ are practically history, we will dwell in detail on the ignition systems of injection cars. Their ignition system is based on an electronic ignition module. We also recommend that you carefully consider the choice of spark plugs and the quality of high-voltage wires, because the quality of the spark and, accordingly, the operation of the ignition system as a whole will depend on them. The information is intended as a reference guide for self-repairing a car.

Should high-voltage wires be replaced and when?

No matter how well the armored wires are made, they also have a limited service life. According to current regulations, they must be replaced after every 30,000 km traveled. In practice, many motorists ignore this rule, continuing to travel with wires that have already outlived their useful life.

Such inattention can cause a whole host of problems, including:

• poor ignition;
• overclocking problems;
• engine tripping;
• inability to start the car.

All these troubles are caused by one single factor - an increase in the electrical resistance of the core of high-voltage wires, as a result of which it becomes “more difficult” for the impulse from the coil to reach its destination.

You can check whether you can still drive with the old wires or not - at home.

To do this you need:

1. Turn off the ignition.
2. Remove one of the armored wires.
3. Measure its resistance using a megohmmeter or multimeter in the appropriate mode.
4. If the resistance turns out to be equal to or close to the figure indicated on the wire insulation, then it is in good condition, but if it turns out to be greater, then the wire should be replaced.
5. Repeat this operation on the remaining three wires.

It should be remembered that if only one of the wires is faulty, then all four should still be replaced.

Also, do not forget about the cleanliness of the contacts of high-voltage wires - they can also cause ignition problems. If oxides are noticeable on the metal tip, they should be cleaned with fine sandpaper or a cloth moistened with kerosene. By following these simple rules for caring for armored wires and replacing them, you can almost completely avoid troubles associated with the ignition system.

Instructions for replacing the module

If checking the VAZ 2112 ignition module showed that the device needs to be replaced, then you can change the ignition module yourself.

The replacement process looks like this:

1. Initially, you should turn off the power to the on-board network; to do this, you just need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Many car enthusiasts neglect this step, although in fact it is very important. If you do not disconnect the battery, a short circuit may occur as a result of moisture or other external influences during repairs. And if this happens, then there is a chance that you will have to completely change the wiring in the car. So, to reset the battery terminal, you just need to unscrew the bolt that secures it with a wrench.
2. Having done this, you will need to disconnect all high-voltage wires connected to it from the module. At the same time, you need to remember their location so that during installation you do not accidentally confuse them, which, again, can be fraught with danger for the entire system as a whole.
3. After completing these steps, you will need to disconnect the connector with wires from the device itself. To do this, grab the block with your hand and press the latch with which it is attached - the fastener is located at the bottom, you can feel it with your hand. Having done this, you will need to remove the block and put it aside so that it does not interfere with you in the future.
4. So, now you have two options - remove the device together with the mount or remove it separately. The first option is usually relevant in cases where, in addition to replacing the MZ, you need to perform other repair actions, for example, to get to the antifreeze drain hole of their cylinder block. Of course, it will be more convenient to dismantle the module separately, but then access to other parts and elements will be blocked. To dismantle you will need to unscrew the nuts with your own hands that secure the device to the bracket. Depending on the car, the nuts can be different; for example, they can be made in the form of hexagonal studs. If so, you will need a hex wrench to unscrew them. In any case, after unscrewing the nuts, it is necessary to dismantle the module from the seat.
5. The procedure for installing a new module is carried out in a similar way, only in reverse order. When connecting with your own hands, be careful and be sure to correctly connect all the wires that connect to the module from the spark plugs . If at this stage you mix up the cylinder numbers on the high-voltage cables, the power unit may not work correctly or may not start at all.

Photo gallery “Replacing the MZ with your own hands”

Price issue

The cost of the device directly depends on the manufacturer. For example, the price for a new MZ from the manufacturer SOATE is about 1,700 rubles. A module from the manufacturer BOSCH will cost around 2 thousand rubles, and from General Motors - about 5 thousand rubles.

How to check high voltage ignition wires?

Automotive high-voltage (HV) wires play an important role for internal combustion engines, since they help transmit high current from the ignition coil to the spark plugs. The serviceability and efficiency of the wires determines the timeliness and intensity of ignition of the fuel-air mixture, and therefore the correct and uninterrupted operation of the engine. Despite their simplicity, wires have many different “sores” and can cause a lot of troubles to their owner, which in one way or another will affect his nerves and pocket.

Malfunctions of high-voltage wires (common problems):

As a rule, the malfunction boils down to the fact that current either does not flow to the spark plug at all, or it does, but in limited quantities. This can happen for the following reasons:

• There has been a break in the conductor through which the impulse travels.
• There is a current leak, that is, the insulation is damaged and the current flows to the side.
• The resistance exceeds the permissible value.
• Problems in contacts (with a spark plug or ignition coil).

In the event of a break in the current-carrying wire, the effect of an internal spark occurs, in other words, an electrical discharge is formed between the ends of the broken wire, which reduces the voltage and causes an electromagnetic parasitic pulse. This impulse, in turn, negatively affects the correct operation of many of the vehicle's sensors. One such damaged high-voltage wire can cause vibration and interruptions in engine operation. Due to a damaged high-voltage wire, ignition in the cylinder occurs late or every other time, as a result, the synchronous operation of the cylinders and the engine as a whole is disrupted.

The main signs of a malfunction of the armored wires of the VAZ 2112

High-voltage wires of the VAZ 2112 are subject to some typical faults:

Lost connection. The electrical circuit is often interrupted at the junctions between the metal contacts of the wiring and the conductor (conductive). A break can also happen:

• when disconnecting the wire;
• in case of unreliable interaction of certain components of the ignition system;
• when the vein oxidizes.

Photo: Wear of armored wires of VAZ 2112
Current leaks. The cause of the leak may be:

• dirty wiring;
• dirt on spark plugs;
• distribution cover;
• ignition coil;
• the insulating layer is damaged.
• faulty wiring caps. The voltage drops due to clogging of the wiring, spark plugs, distribution cap, ignition coil, when the insulation and wiring caps are damaged.

Expert advice: A typical prerequisite for connection failure is heat/sparks. This is fraught with burnout of the core/metal contacts.

How to check high-voltage wires? Effective ways:

1. First of all, it is necessary to check the explosive for the absence of visible damage (cracks, fractures, etc.).
2. Make sure there is no breakdown, this can be determined even without instruments, just look under the hood in the dark; in the event of a breakdown while the engine is running, a spark will be visible on the explosive wire.
3. You can check high-voltage wires using a wire. To do this, you need to take a piece of wire in the dark and strip it on both sides. Then one end must be shorted to ground (machine body), and the other end must be drawn along the entire length of the explosive wires , as well as joints, caps, etc. A spark will form at the breakdown sites.
4. You can also check the resistance of the high voltage wires, for this you will need a multimeter.

• Turn on ohmmeter mode.
• Remove the wire from the spark plug of the first cylinder and the ignition coil.
• Connect the multimeter electrodes to the ends of the wire and look at the readings.

In good wires, the resistance should vary from 3.5 to 10 kOhm, depending on the type of wires themselves. Information about resistance is most often indicated on the insulation of high-voltage wires. Check each wire, the spread between them should not exceed 2-4 kOhm. If there is a large variation, replace the wires. By the way, they are changed as a set, that is, all together.

In conclusion, your resistance reading of the most popular high-voltage wires:

• Tesla - 6 kOhm
• Slon - from 4 kOhm to 7 kOhm (4 kOhm - 1st cylinder and up to 7 kOhm - on the last cylinder)
• ProSport - almost zero resistance
• Cargen - 0.9 kOhm

Note! The resistance of high-voltage wires varies depending on the length, thickness, and material from which the wires are made.

Wiring replacement process

The procedure for removing and installing the ignition coil on old VAZ models:

1. First, disconnect the central high-voltage wire leading to the distributor (ignition distributor).
2. Disconnect all power wires from the coil contacts. Since they are fastened with nuts, you will need an 8 wrench for this.
3. If you don’t know which wires to connect to which connector later, it’s better to immediately remember or mark them somehow, so that later during installation you can connect them correctly.
4. Unscrew the coil housing. It is attached to a clamp (clamp), which is pressed to the car body with two nuts.
5. After the work has been done, you can remove the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.

For new type VAZ cars:

1. We remove the “minus terminal” from the battery.
2. Remove the top protective cover of the engine. If the engine volume is 1.5 liters, then this part is missing and this step is skipped.
3. We remove the high-voltage wires from the coil.
4. Now, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two fasteners.
5. Using a 17mm wrench, loosen one bolt securing the coil.
6. We take out the module.
7. Use a hexagon to unscrew the coil from the holder.
8. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Replacing the ignition coil on a VAZ is quite simple. Even a novice motorist can do this in his garage, and if everything seems too complicated, contact a car service center. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of product, since this will determine how well the engine and ignition system will work.

Cylinders are numbered from left to right. In the module, the internal ignition cylinder 1 is located on the lower left side. The second and third cylinders are located in the left and right compartments, respectively. The output of the fourth cylinder is located at the bottom in the right compartment.