One of the most important tasks in the fuel system of a car is performed by the pump or, as it is called, the fuel pump. It is he who supplies fuel through the fuel system and a lot depends on him. On injection VAZs, an electric fuel pump is installed, located in the tank. We will tell you in detail how to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110-2112 in this article.
What kind of fuel pumps are installed on VAZ 2110/2112 cars
The fuel pump is considered the most important element of the fuel system of any car. So, depending on what type of engine the VAZ 2110/2112 model is equipped with, the choice of fuel pump will also depend. An electric pump is installed on injection cars, and a mechanical one on carburetor cars.
The family is equipped with fuel pumps produced by AvtoVAZ.
However, these units do not have a high service life and reliability, so often car owners do not wait until the fuel pump fails and replace it.
Installed at the factory on every VAZ 2110/2112 model
Most often, fuel pumps (Russia) and “Bosch” (Germany) are chosen for replacement.
Their quality and durability have been known for a long time, although their cost is several times higher than the price of AvtoVAZ gasoline pumps.
The German manufacturer ensures the quality and durability of the products
It’s worth mentioning separately about the location of the fuel pump in the VAZ 2110/2112: the device is not located under the hood. To achieve maximum optimization of the fuel pump, manufacturers install it directly into the fuel tank. That is, to get to the pump, you will need to fold back the cushion in the back seat of the car and open the hatch hidden under the carpet.
The fuel tank and fuel pump are located under the seat cushion.
How to check the performance of the fuel pump
Checking the condition of the fuel pump is carried out only in cases where certain signs of its malfunction are observed:
- increased noise during pump operation;
the engine power has sharply decreased - the car cannot accelerate quickly;
The car does not start because no fuel is supplied to the engine unit.
You can determine that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fuel pump yourself.
In addition, this does not require complex diagnostic equipment or special knowledge.
Initially, you need to check whether the pump itself is working. After the ignition is turned on, a slight buzzing noise should be heard under the rear seat cushion for a few seconds. If there is sound, it means the pump is working.
Pressure check
To check the pressure of the fuel pump, you will need a pressure gauge
. It will need to be connected to the fuel system, which is located under the hood of the VAZ 2110/2112. A pressure gauge is connected to the fitting of the fuel pipe that goes to the engine. If at idle the device shows a pressure of more than 3.3 kg/cm3, then the fuel pump is clearly faulty.
When connecting, be careful not to damage nearby hoses and wires.
If the pressure gauge reading is less than 2.3 kg/cm, then the problem in the fuel system lies not in the pump, but in another element - the filter.
Based on these indicators, you can immediately identify the nature of the problems in the fuel system
What to do if the pump does not pump fuel
In some cases, the problem lies in the fact that the fuel pump does not turn on. Accordingly, it will not provide gasoline to the power unit, and the car simply will not start.
Checking the functionality of the pump is as follows:
- recline the rear seat in the cabin;
remove the hatch cover;
turn the starter on to crank, but do not start the car;
Connect a tester to the contacts of the fuel pump - if power is supplied, but the fuel pump does not pump, therefore, the device itself has failed;
if there is no power supply, the problem lies in the relay, fuse or wiring.
The easiest way to check the health of the relay and fuse is to replace them with new ones. If the fuel pump still does not work, there is a short circuit in the wiring.
Based on the diagram, you can identify the location of the malfunction
content .. 27 28 29 30 ..Lada VAZ-2110 (2111, 2112). Fuel pump malfunction (does not pump gasoline)
One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.
Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:
The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure; the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on; Considering that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both the mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will look at what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.
Signs of fuel pump malfunctions
The main symptoms of fuel pump failure, as well as malfunctions in its operation, are:
the car starts with difficulty, the engine runs unstable, there are dips, jerking when pressing the gas pedal, etc.; the pump does not pump after turning on the ignition, does not turn the starter and does not pump the fuel pump, the engine does not start; There have also been cases when the fuel pump stops pumping while driving. In such a situation, the engine begins to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is used up. The problem can occur either regularly or periodically.
The fuel pump does not pump: causes and diagnostics
Let's start with the fact that if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, the spark plugs are dry and there is a spark, the starter turns the engine normally, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A common problem is that there is no power to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction manifests itself in motion, when the power to the fuel pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.
An equally important point is how much the fuel pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and buzz (power is being supplied), but not create the required pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (which depends on the specific car model). The indicated pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.
To check, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a specific car model. Using the example of injection engines, the pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle the indicator is 2.5 atmospheres, when pressing the gas 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help you accurately determine:
malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail; breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear; severe contamination of filters (fuel filter and/or fuel pump mesh); In the second case, when you press the gas, the pressure does not increase; in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or jerkily.
A decrease in pressure below the norm will lead to the fact that the engine may not start or start with difficulty, stall, jerk, operate unstably and with failures. If this happens due to the fault of the pump and not the fuel filter, then there is a high probability that the coarse filter screen of the fuel pump is clogged. In this case, there is no need to change the fuel pump itself, since it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.
If you suspect that there is no voltage to the fuel pump, there is a quick way to check. It is enough to turn the ignition key and listen, as when you turn the key you should hear a slight hum from the fuel pump. If such a buzzing noise is not heard, it means there is no power to the fuel pump, there are problems with the wiring, etc.
We add that this method of determining the operation of the pump by sound is not suitable for all cars. On some models (especially premium ones), sound insulation is at a high level and the fuel pump turns on immediately after opening the driver's door, and not when turning the key in the lock. In this case, it may seem that the fuel pump does not work when the ignition is turned on, and the sound of the pump may simply not be heard. Also in the general list of possible reasons why the fuel pump does not pump, the following are noted:
- failure of the fuel pump fuse; - breakdown of the fuel pump relay; - problems with the ground of the fuel pump; - malfunction of the electric motor of the fuel pump; - oxidation or damage to the contacts and terminals of the fuel pump; - the fuel pump itself is faulty;
Wiring to the fuel pump
On most cars, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “plus”, “minus”, and also a wire for indicating the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the fuel pump does not pump, then the cause may be a lack of power.
To check the power to the fuel pump, just take a 12-volt light bulb and supply it with power from the external connector of the fuel pump. After turning the ignition, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. If the lamp comes on, it will indicate the need to check the internal contacts of the fuel pump.
To check the external wiring, you should alternately connect the positive and negative contacts, which are removed from the fuel pump power connector, to the ground of the pump. The contacts must also be connected to the fuel pump relay. If you place the negative contact on ground, after which the ignition is turned on and the light comes on, then this means that this contact is faulty. If the light bulb does not light up, then problems with the “plus” are obvious. If you place a contact on the relay and the light comes on, there is probably damage to the wire on the section that connects the relay and the fuel pump itself.
Fuel pump electric motor
If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and the external wiring to the fuel pump gives positive results, then you should check the fuel pump motor. This electric motor is responsible for circulating gasoline inside the fuel pump.
When checking, you need to take into account that the terminals on the fuel pump themselves tend to oxidize, as a result of which power is not supplied and the pump does not pump. In this case, the motor is working, but the terminals need to be cleaned or re-soldered.
To check the fuel pump motor, you will need to attach the test lamp wires to a cleaned and serviceable terminal of the electric motor, after which you should turn on the ignition. If the light comes on, this will indicate that the fuel pump motor is not working.
Fuel pump ground contact
Problems with the fuel pump mass may be indicated by a fuel level sensor that is not working correctly. The mass may be poorly secured; in this case, the fuel pump does not pump fuel. The ground wire is usually located under the dashboard and runs through the cabin. It is necessary to find the specified wire, check and clean all contacts, then securely fasten the ground to the fuel pump.
Fuel pump relay
The fuel pump relay is often mounted next to the fuel pump ground, that is, under the dashboard. A normally operating relay after turning on the ignition for a couple of seconds allows the pump to create pressure in the system and immediately turns off.
When the ignition key is turned, the driver hears a characteristic click (the relay is turned on), then a similar click will indicate that the fuel pump relay is turned off. If such clicks are not heard, this indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. The optimal solution would be to replace the fuel pump relay with a new or known-good device. Let us add that the cost of spare parts is quite affordable.
Fuel pump fuse
During diagnostics, be sure to check the fuel pump fuse. The specified 15 A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment and is marked FUEL PUMP, which means fuel pump.
The fuel pump fuse needs to be pulled out and its contact inspected. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact will indicate that the fuel pump fuse has blown. In this case, you need to install a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the fuel pump relay).
Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions
Quite often, unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the fuel pump is lost due to mixed up contacts or other connection errors.
Also, one should not exclude the possibility that a malfunction occurred in the car alarm or security system, after which the power supply to the fuel pump is blocked. In other words, the alarm blocks the engine from starting. Finally, let’s add that the gas pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly damage the electric motor of the fuel pump, as it burns out.
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Replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110/2112 with your own hands
If the car owner has accurately diagnosed the failure of the pump mechanism in the fuel system, it will need to be replaced. It is worth noting that replacing the fuel pump on VAZ 2110/2112 cars is quite simple; even an inexperienced driver can cope with this task.
The fuel pump is usually replaced not only because it has lost its functionality, but also in other cases:
- incorrect pressure readings when the pump is working;
insufficient fuel capacity;
after purchasing a new VAZ in order to get rid of the “weak points” of the model.
To work you will need a small set of tools:
- flat screwdriver;
- 10mm socket wrench.
crosshead screwdriver;
The work procedure can be divided into two stages: dismantling the old device and installing a new one.
Instructions for dismantling the fuel pump
- Disconnect the “+” terminal from the battery.
Fold back the seat in the back row and remove it.
Find a small hatch under the carpet.
Unscrew its fastenings and remove the cover.
Remove the connector with wires from the fuel pump.
To make it more convenient to work, the plastic clamps on the fuel pipes are cut, the tubes themselves are separated and removed from the fuel pump.
The pump itself is attached to the tank with 8 bolts. Using a 10mm wrench, you need to unscrew all the bolts and pull the device out of the socket.
The pump is pulled out along with the float and seal.
The procedure for removing a faulty fuel pump will take no more than 10 minutes - everything will depend on how rusty the fastening bolts are.
Installation instructions for fuel pump
- A new pump is inserted into the vacated socket. In this case, the arrow on the body should point towards the rear of the car - this is the only way to ensure the correct position of the device.
After which the pump is screwed back to the tank with the same eight bolts.
A connector is connected to the pump contact.
The final stage is installing the hatch cover and returning the rear seat cushion to its original place.
The procedure will take no more than 7–8 minutes.
Video: how to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110/2112 with your own hands
Thus, the owner of cars of the “tenth” VAZ family can independently cope with such work as checking and replacing the fuel pump. It must be said that the fuel pump is indeed considered one of the most vulnerable points on the VAZ 2110/2112, so owners better be prepared in advance to carry out the necessary procedures with this device.
The fuel pump is the main element of the car's fuel system. Its role is to select gasoline from the tank and supply it to the engine under pressure. Any malfunction of this unit leads to interruptions in the operation of the power unit, or its stop. Replacing the pump on VAZ 2110–2112 cars is possible without a trip to a car service center.
Fuel pump in VAZ 2110/2112: self-diagnosis and replacement
A fuel pump is a device that supplies fuel to the cylinders of a power unit. However, in some cases, the fuel pump may not operate correctly or fail. Such situations are not uncommon on VAZ 2110/2112 cars. Therefore, it is better for drivers to prepare in advance for diagnosing or replacing the pump themselves.
What kind of fuel pumps are installed on VAZ 2110/2112 cars
The fuel pump is considered the most important element of the fuel system of any car. So, depending on what type of engine the VAZ 2110/2112 model is equipped with, the choice of fuel pump will also depend. An electric pump is installed on injection cars, and a mechanical one on carburetor cars.
The family is equipped with fuel pumps produced by AvtoVAZ. However, these units do not have a high service life and reliability, so often car owners do not wait until the fuel pump fails and replace it.
Installed at the factory on every VAZ 2110/2112 model
Most often, fuel pumps (Russia) and “Bosch” (Germany) are chosen for replacement. Their quality and durability have been known for a long time, although their cost is several times higher than the price of AvtoVAZ gasoline pumps.
The German manufacturer ensures the quality and durability of the products
It’s worth mentioning separately about the location of the fuel pump in the VAZ 2110/2112: the device is not located under the hood. To achieve maximum optimization of the fuel pump, manufacturers install it directly into the fuel tank. That is, to get to the pump, you will need to fold back the cushion in the back seat of the car and open the hatch hidden under the carpet.
The fuel tank and fuel pump are located under the seat cushion.
How to check the performance of the fuel pump
Checking the condition of the fuel pump is carried out only in cases where certain signs of its malfunction are observed:
- increased noise during pump operation;
- the engine power has sharply decreased - the car cannot accelerate quickly;
- The car does not start because no fuel is supplied to the engine unit.
You can determine that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fuel pump yourself. In addition, this does not require complex diagnostic equipment or special knowledge.
Initially, you need to check whether the pump itself is working. After the ignition is turned on, a slight buzzing noise should be heard under the rear seat cushion for a few seconds. If there is sound, it means the pump is working.
Pressure check
To check the pressure of the fuel pump, you will need a pressure gauge. It will need to be connected to the fuel system, which is located under the hood of the VAZ 2110/2112. A pressure gauge is connected to the fitting of the fuel pipe that goes to the engine. If at idle the device shows a pressure of more than 3.3 kg/cm3, then the fuel pump is clearly faulty.
When connecting, be careful not to damage nearby hoses and wires.
If the pressure gauge reading is less than 2.3 kg/cm, then the problem in the fuel system lies not in the pump, but in another element - the filter.
Based on these indicators, you can immediately identify the nature of the problems in the fuel system
What to do if the pump does not pump fuel
In some cases, the problem lies in the fact that the fuel pump does not turn on. Accordingly, it will not provide gasoline to the power unit, and the car simply will not start.
Checking the functionality of the pump is as follows:
- recline the rear seat in the cabin;
- remove the hatch cover;
- turn the starter on to crank, but do not start the car;
- Connect a tester to the contacts of the fuel pump - if power is supplied, but the fuel pump does not pump, therefore, the device itself has failed;
- if there is no power supply, the problem lies in the relay, fuse or wiring.
The easiest way to check the health of the relay and fuse is to replace them with new ones. If the fuel pump still does not work, there is a short circuit in the wiring.
Based on the diagram, you can identify the location of the malfunction
Replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110/2112 with your own hands
If the car owner has accurately diagnosed the failure of the pump mechanism in the fuel system, it will need to be replaced. It is worth noting that replacing the fuel pump on VAZ 2110/2112 cars is quite simple; even an inexperienced driver can cope with this task.
The fuel pump is usually replaced not only because it has lost its functionality, but also in other cases:
- incorrect pressure readings when the pump is working;
- insufficient fuel capacity;
- after purchasing a new VAZ in order to get rid of the “weak points” of the model.
To work you will need a small set of tools:
- flat screwdriver;
- crosshead screwdriver;
- scissors;
- 10mm socket wrench.
The work procedure can be divided into two stages: dismantling the old device and installing a new one.
Instructions for dismantling the fuel pump
- Disconnect the “+” terminal from the battery.
- Fold back the seat in the back row and remove it.
- Find a small hatch under the carpet.
- Unscrew its fastenings and remove the cover.
- Remove the connector with wires from the fuel pump.
- To make it more convenient to work, the plastic clamps on the fuel pipes are cut, the tubes themselves are separated and removed from the fuel pump.
- The pump itself is attached to the tank with 8 bolts. Using a 10mm wrench, you need to unscrew all the bolts and pull the device out of the socket.
- The pump is pulled out along with the float and seal.
The procedure for removing a faulty fuel pump will take no more than 10 minutes - everything will depend on how rusty the fastening bolts are.
Installation instructions for fuel pump
- A new pump is inserted into the vacated socket. In this case, the arrow on the body should point towards the rear of the car - this is the only way to ensure the correct position of the device.
- After which the pump is screwed back to the tank with the same eight bolts.
- Next you will need to connect the two fuel pipes to each other.
- A connector is connected to the pump contact.
- The final stage is installing the hatch cover and returning the rear seat cushion to its original place.
The procedure will take no more than 7–8 minutes.
Video: how to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110/2112 with your own hands
Thus, the owner of cars of the “tenth” VAZ family can independently cope with such work as checking and replacing the fuel pump. It must be said that the fuel pump is indeed considered one of the most vulnerable points on the VAZ 2110/2112, so owners better be prepared in advance to carry out the necessary procedures with this device.
- Author: Ekaterina Larina
What kind of fuel pumps are installed on VAZ 2110/2112 cars
VAZ 2110/2112 cars, depending on the year of manufacture and the type of engine installed, may differ in the method of supplying fuel to the cylinders.
Table: features of fuel supply systems to engine cylinders depending on vehicle modification
Model/ modification | Year of issue | Engine volume, cm3 | Number of valves, pcs | Injection system |
VAZ 21100 | 1996–2000 | 1500 | 8 | Carburetor |
VAZ 21101 | since 2004 | 1600 | 8 | Injection |
VAZ 21102 | since 2004 | 1500 | 8 | |
VAZ 21103 | since 2001 | 1500 | 16 | |
VAZ 21103M | since 2001 | 1500 | 16 | |
VAZ 21104M | since 2001 | 1600 | 16 | |
VAZ 21120 | 1999–2008 | 1500 | 16 | Injection |
VAZ 21121 | 1999–2008 | 1600 | 8 | |
VAZ 21122 | 1999–2008 | 1500 | 8 | |
VAZ 21124 | 2004–2008 | 1600 | 16 | |
VAZ 21128 | 2004–2008 | 1800 | 16 | |
VAZ 21123 | 1999–2009 | 1600 | 16 |
Only the first modifications of the VAZ 2110 were equipped with a carburetor injection system. From the factory they were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps of the DAAZ brand (catalog number 2108–1106010). Previously, they had proven themselves well on cars of the Sputnik and Samara series.
A mechanical fuel pump was installed in the engine compartment of the VAZ 2110 to the right of the engine valve cover, and was driven by the camshaft.
All injection VAZ 2110/2112 are equipped with submersible fuel modules. The design of such a module includes:
- electric fuel pump;
- coarse filter;
- fuel level sensor.
The fuel module is installed directly into the vehicle tank. In other words, the gas pump is completely immersed in gasoline. Injection VAZ 2110/2112 were and are equipped with electric fuel pumps of domestic, joint or imported production. These are products of the Utes, Pekar, Saratov plant, as well as the world famous one, the pumps of which are equipped in all modern VAZs. The catalog number of the stock electric pump is 2112–1139009. There are also modifications whose numbers have two additional digits: 02 or 03. Depending on them, products may differ in length and diameter.
If everything has been checked, but the fuel pump does not work - article numbers
In general, the pump article number for VAZ-2112 engines looks like this: 21102-1139009-XX. Instead of the letters XX there are numbers, for example 02 or 03. They indicate the manufacturer. So, modules from different factories are not interchangeable! The resistance of the FLS resistor is different in them. However, when replacing the FLS sensor, you can borrow it from the “old” module. That's what they usually do.
Until April 2002, article numbers of the type 2112-1139009 were used.
Almost every module available for purchase contains a built-in pressure regulator. There are also exceptions - KSZC-A243, for example. The meaning is as follows:
- VAZ 2114 fuel pump relay is one of the reasons for fuel system failure
- All internal combustion engines with a volume of 1.5 liters are equipped with a ramp with an “external” regulator (2112-1160010);
- The 21124 or 21114 motor requires a built-in regulator.
In conjunction with 1.5 liter engines, you can use any module – both with and without a built-in regulator.
Designations of analogues
- 21102-062213.0XX – instead of the letters XX there will be a plant designation (07, 13, etc.);
- KSZC-A233 or A243 – KSZC brand. No pressure regulator .
Design features of fuel pumps for carburetor and injection fuel injection systems
Mechanical fuel pumps, which were installed on the first modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, have a simple design. It is based on a set of membranes made of special rubberized fabric that is resistant to the chemical action of gasoline. The pump body has two valves: inlet and outlet. The membranes are driven by a rod (pusher). It is driven by a cam mechanism rotated by a camshaft.
Such a mechanical fuel pump can serve for decades until the drive rod wears out or one of the membranes breaks. And even then, if this happens, you can replace these elements in half an hour.
The first modifications of the VAZ 2110 with a carburetor injection system were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps
With an electric fuel pump, things are much more complicated. Its design is based on a small electric motor. It is no different from a regular one, although it works completely immersed in gasoline. The pressure in the system here is created not by a membrane (although there are such pumps), but by a specially shaped impeller mounted on the electric motor shaft.
The service life of the electric fuel pump is 150–200 thousand km. But it can fail much earlier. The main cause of breakdowns when the resource is not used up is additives added to gasoline, as well as various kinds of mechanical impurities. The former destroy the brushes and commutator, while the latter clog the valve mechanisms.
In the injection VAZ 2110/2112, the fuel pump has an electrical design and is part of the submersible fuel module
Design of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump for injection and carburetor car models
Two types of fuel pumps are installed on VAZ 2110 cars, depending on the type of car engine. The first type, mechanical, is installed mainly on carburetor models, the second type is electrical, which are installed on inverter tens.
Mechanical fuel pumps, which were installed on the first modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, have a simple design. It is based on a set of membranes made of special rubberized fabric that is resistant to the chemical action of gasoline. The pump body has two valves: inlet and outlet. The membranes are driven by a rod (pusher). It is driven by a cam mechanism rotated by a camshaft.
Such a mechanical fuel pump can serve for decades until the drive rod wears out or one of the membranes breaks. And even then, if this happens, you can replace these elements in half an hour.
With an electric fuel pump, things are much more complicated. Its design is based on a small electric motor. It is no different from a regular one, although it works completely immersed in gasoline. The pressure in the system here is created not by a membrane (although there are such pumps), but by a specially shaped impeller mounted on the electric motor shaft.
Signs of a faulty fuel pump VAZ 2110/2112
Signs of pump malfunction appear the same, regardless of its design and type of injection system. These include:
- difficulty starting the engine;
- unstable engine operation at idle speed (vibration, tripping, stopping of the power unit);
- failures during acceleration in motion;
- reduction in power and traction qualities of the engine;
- absence of the characteristic sound of a fuel pump starting (for injection engines);
- presence of traces of fuel leakage (for carburetor power units).
Determining a fuel pump malfunction on your own is quite problematic, because the first three signs, which are the main ones, may indicate other problems in the fuel system, such as:
- fuel filter clogged;
- problems with sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, oxygen level, etc.;
- clogging of one or more nozzles;
- failure of the pressure regulator.
In addition, similar symptoms are observed when problems with ignition occur. It can be determined that the cause of the listed symptoms is the fuel filter by checking the device.
How to Test a Mechanical Fuel Pump
To check a mechanical fuel pump, you will need the following tools and tools:
- slotted screwdriver;
- key (head) 10;
- key to 13;
- 2 clean dry plastic bottles with a volume of 2 liters;
- a piece of hose (50 cm) of the same diameter as the fuel one;
- 1–1.5 liters of gasoline;
- caliper (ruler);
- stopwatch (clock).
Let's start with performance. A working VAZ 2110 mechanical fuel pump with a obviously clean filter should pump at least 1 liter of fuel per minute. The verification algorithm is as follows:
If the amount of fuel pumped per minute is less than a liter, the pump is faulty. The reasons for this may be:
- faulty valves;
- rupture of one or more membranes;
- clogging of the pump grid;
- wear of the drive rod (pusher).
We carry out further checks in the following order:
- Disconnect both fuel line hoses from the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses - Checking the intake valve. To do this, plug the corresponding fitting with your finger and press the manual fuel pump lever several times. You should feel the vacuum (suction) with your finger. If it is not there, the valve has failed.
- Checking the exhaust valve.
Place your finger on the outlet fitting and press the lever. The air pressure should be felt at the outlet. Otherwise, the exhaust valve is faulty. When you press the manual pumping lever, you should feel a vacuum at the inlet fitting, and a pressure of air at the outlet - If everything is in order with the valves, check the condition of the filter mesh.
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the pump cover. We remove it from there and inspect the mesh for clogging. The grid is fine - let's move on. The mesh filter should not show signs of damage or deformation - Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the pump mounting nuts.
- Carefully, so as not to damage the gaskets, remove the device from the studs, drain the gasoline from it, and remove the pusher.
Unscrew the two nuts and remove the fuel pump from the studs. - Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the 6 screws connecting the 2 parts of the pump housing.
We disassemble the device, remove the rod with membranes. Unscrew the top nut with a 10mm wrench and remove the membranes from the rod. We assess their condition. They should not have cracks, breaks, or signs of deformation. To disassemble the pump you need to unscrew 6 screws around the circumference of the housing. - Using a caliper or ruler, measure the length of the fuel pump drive rod.
It should be 82.4 mm. If it is less, or the rod has signs of wear on any of its ends, it is unsuitable for further work. The length of the pusher should be 82.4 mm
Checking the electrical circuit
Unlike a carburetor engine, where the fuel pump is mechanically driven, on the injection VAZ 2110/2112 a special relay and fuse are responsible for the operation of this device. Therefore, before moving on to diagnosing the pump itself, it is necessary to check the indicated elements. If any one of them is faulty, the pump will not work at all.
Turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When the fuel pump is running, it emits a characteristic “whistle” when started. If it is not there, it means that either the pump itself has failed, or one of the elements of its power supply circuit has failed.
The pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block located inside the vehicle's center console. It can be accessed by removing the plastic trim (near the front passenger's left foot). It is secured with several screws. Under the cover you will find three relays and three fuses. Typically, the fuel pump circuit protection elements are located centrally.
The relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block under the cladding
To check the fuse, remove it from its socket and “ring” it with a tester. If necessary, replace it, observing the rating (15 A). It is unlikely that it will be possible to check the relay for functionality without special equipment. But you can take another relay, for example, the radiator fan (far left), and install it in place of the one being diagnosed. Turn on the ignition and listen to see if the fuel pump starts working. If yes, buy and install a new relay. If the problem persists, continue diagnostics.
To check the fuel pump relay, you can install the radiator cooling fan relay in its place.
Common mistakes
You can use our instructions in one case: when the fuel pump does not work, but other systems are working properly. Sometimes the engine does not start for several reasons at once. And then you need to reduce the pressure like this: wait 5-6 hours, and do not turn on the ignition. Be careful!
Actually, the ramp is under pressure
You can find out about the presence of pressure in the standard way:
- Open the hood;
- There is a fitting on the fuel rail, closed with a plastic cap. It is turned away (photo 1);
- Using the nipple cap (photo 2) you can unscrew the fitting plug. This action is performed carefully: the residual pressure has not disappeared anywhere.
Even if gasoline starts to gush out, do not try to tighten the fitting right away. Let the pressure drop a little.
Diagnostic connection and plug
Trying to fix a fuel pump is commendable. It will be possible to change its mesh. But the cause of the problem may also be a clogged fine filter.
The replacement filter (“can” 2112-1117010) gradually fails. On all fuel-injected cars, including the VAZ-2112, the fuel pump will not stop working even if the filter is completely clogged. Fuel is not pumped, but the engine does not burn out.
The fuel pump sounds and pumps - does that mean everything is in order?
A radical test measure is to connect the battery to the connector. The module itself must be in the tank! A working pump operates quietly. If the motor is humming, it’s time to change the fuel pump; if it’s ringing, find the cause and fix it.
Checking the fuel rail pressure
But even the fact that the fuel pump starts pumping when the ignition is turned on does not mean that it is working properly. The main indicator of its operation is the pressure in the system. You can check it using a regular pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 atmospheres, which is used to measure tire pressure. In addition, you will need a piece of gas-resistant hose with an internal diameter of 9 mm and two clamps of the appropriate size.
The verification procedure is as follows:
For engines with a volume of 1500 cm 3 it should be 2.8–3.2 atmospheres, and for power units with a volume of 1600 cm 3 – 3.6–4 atmospheres. If the device indicators are lower, the pump is unsuitable for further use.
Performance check
Checking its performance will help make sure that the fuel pump has failed. For this you will need:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- a piece of gas-resistant hose (50–80 cm) with a clamp;
- key to 17;
- empty 2 liter plastic bottle;
- a piece of insulated wire;
- stopwatch.
Performance testing is carried out as follows:
- We remove the back seat. We lift the carpet and find the gas tank hatch under it. Unscrew the two screws (diagonally).
- Once you remove the hatch, you will see the top of the fuel module. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nut of the outlet fitting. We put a hose on it and secure the connection with a clamp. We lower the other end of the hose into an empty bottle.
- Disconnect the pump power connector. Using a piece of wire, we supply power to the positive contact of the device from the corresponding battery terminal. We connect the negative one to ground.
- We begin counting the time from the moment the pump starts.
A working fuel injection pump for a VAZ 2110/2112 should pump 1.5 liters of fuel in one minute. If this indicator is lower, the pump must be replaced.
Replacing the fuel pump on injection vehicles VAZ 2110/2112
Required tools:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- thin slotted screwdriver;
- key to 17;
- key to 7;
- key to 5.
Procedure for replacing the fuel pump:
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Open the gas tank cap for a few seconds to reduce the pressure inside.
- Remove the rear seat, unscrew the screws, and open the hatch.
Unscrew the two screws securing the protective hatch - Disconnect the electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connector - Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts of the pump inlet and outlet fittings.
We move the tubes to the sides. On the latest modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, the fittings are plastic, and the connection to the gas pipeline pipes is made not with nuts, but with latches. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts of the pump fittings - Using a 7 wrench, unscrew the 8 nuts securing the pressure ring (flange) of the module.
Remove the ring and the rubber seal underneath it. Using a 7 wrench, unscrew the 8 nuts securing the fuel module flange - We remove the fuel module from the tank, carefully removing the float of the level sensor.
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the sensor to the pump body.
Let's take it off. Disconnect the pump power connector. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the fuel level sensor - Using a thin slotted screwdriver, remove the clamps on the module guides.
Use a screwdriver to remove the clamps on the guides - Remove the pump from the guides.
- Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the pump cover.
If the nuts on them rotate, hold them with a size 5 wrench. Using a slotted screwdriver and a size 5 wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the fuel pump cover - Remove the cover and remove the fuel pump from the plastic housing.
We install a new device in its place. We remove the fuel pump from the housing and install a new one in its place. - We reassemble in reverse order.
- When installing the module, make sure that the arrow on its flange points to the rear of the car.
- If the rubber seal is damaged, it must also be replaced. https://www.youtube.com/embed/vAJqmUZPyXU
Having completed the assembly, we check the operation of the new fuel pump.
The process of replacing a VAZ 2110/2112 fuel pump, regardless of its design, does not require any special skills and can be done independently. However, if you are not particularly confident in your own abilities, it is better to contact the nearest car service center.
The purpose of a fuel pump is similar to the human heart. Only, unlike pumping blood, it pumps fuel from the gas tank, through the fuel supply system pipeline, to the filter, and then into the combustion chamber. The pump stops working when there is no gasoline in the tank, there is nothing to distill, and when the device breaks down. And a small part that fails makes a large car useless. How to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2112 with your own hands can be found in this article. First you need to find out why the fuel pump failed.
Diagnostics and replacement of the fuel pump on VAZ 2110/2112 cars
The fuel pump is the main element of the car's fuel system. Its role is to select gasoline from the tank and supply it to the engine under pressure. Any malfunction of this unit leads to interruptions in the operation of the power unit, or its stop. Replacing the pump on VAZ 2110–2112 cars is possible without a trip to a car service center.
What kind of fuel pumps are installed on VAZ 2110/2112 cars
VAZ 2110/2112 cars, depending on the year of manufacture and the type of engine installed, may differ in the method of supplying fuel to the cylinders.
Table: features of fuel supply systems to engine cylinders depending on vehicle modification
Only the first modifications of the VAZ 2110 were equipped with a carburetor injection system. From the factory they were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps of the DAAZ brand (catalog number 2108–1106010). Previously, they had proven themselves well on cars of the Sputnik and Samara series.
A mechanical fuel pump was installed in the engine compartment of the VAZ 2110 to the right of the engine valve cover, and was driven by the camshaft.
All injection VAZ 2110/2112 are equipped with submersible fuel modules. The design of such a module includes:
- electric fuel pump;
- coarse filter;
- fuel level sensor.
The fuel module is installed directly into the vehicle tank. In other words, the gas pump is completely immersed in gasoline. Injection VAZ 2110/2112 were and are equipped with electric fuel pumps of domestic, joint or imported production. These are products of the Utes, Pekar, Saratov plant, as well as the world famous one, the pumps of which are equipped in all modern VAZs. The catalog number of the stock electric pump is 2112–1139009. There are also modifications whose numbers have two additional digits: 02 or 03. Depending on them, products may differ in length and diameter.
Design features of fuel pumps for carburetor and injection fuel injection systems
Mechanical fuel pumps, which were installed on the first modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, have a simple design. It is based on a set of membranes made of special rubberized fabric that is resistant to the chemical action of gasoline. The pump body has two valves: inlet and outlet. The membranes are driven by a rod (pusher). It is driven by a cam mechanism rotated by a camshaft.
Such a mechanical fuel pump can serve for decades until the drive rod wears out or one of the membranes breaks. And even then, if this happens, you can replace these elements in half an hour.
The first modifications of the VAZ 2110 with a carburetor injection system were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps
With an electric fuel pump, things are much more complicated. Its design is based on a small electric motor. It is no different from a regular one, although it works completely immersed in gasoline. The pressure in the system here is created not by a membrane (although there are such pumps), but by a specially shaped impeller mounted on the electric motor shaft.
The service life of the electric fuel pump is 150–200 thousand km. But it can fail much earlier. The main cause of breakdowns when the resource is not used up is additives added to gasoline, as well as various kinds of mechanical impurities. The former destroy the brushes and commutator, while the latter clog the valve mechanisms.
In the injection VAZ 2110/2112, the fuel pump has an electrical design and is part of the submersible fuel module
Signs of pump malfunction appear the same, regardless of its design and type of injection system. These include:
- difficulty starting the engine;
- unstable engine operation at idle speed (vibration, tripping, stopping of the power unit);
- failures during acceleration in motion;
- reduction in power and traction qualities of the engine;
- absence of the characteristic sound of a fuel pump starting (for injection engines);
- presence of traces of fuel leakage (for carburetor power units).
Determining a fuel pump malfunction on your own is quite problematic, because the first three signs, which are the main ones, may indicate other problems in the fuel system, such as:
- fuel filter clogged;
- problems with sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, oxygen level, etc.;
- clogging of one or more nozzles;
- failure of the pressure regulator.
In addition, similar symptoms are observed when problems with ignition occur. It can be determined that the cause of the listed symptoms is the fuel filter by checking the device.
How to Test a Mechanical Fuel Pump
To check a mechanical fuel pump, you will need the following tools and tools:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- slotted screwdriver;
- key (head) 10;
- key to 13;
- 2 clean dry plastic bottles with a volume of 2 liters;
- a piece of hose (50 cm) of the same diameter as the fuel one;
- 1–1.5 liters of gasoline;
- caliper (ruler);
- stopwatch (clock).
Let's start with performance. A working VAZ 2110 mechanical fuel pump with a obviously clean filter should pump at least 1 liter of fuel per minute. The verification algorithm is as follows:
- We lift the hood and find the pump.
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the pump outlet hose clamp.
Loosen the clamp and remove the hose from the pump fitting. A performance test involves measuring the amount of fuel pumped over a specified period of time. - We put a piece of prepared hose on the outlet fitting, and lower its other end into one of the empty bottles.
- Fill the second bottle with gasoline. We lower the carburetor hose removed from the pump into it. When the float chamber runs out of fuel, it will be sucked from the bottle.
- We start the engine, set the speed to 2000 rpm, turn on the stopwatch and watch the operation of the fuel pump.
If the amount of fuel pumped in 1 minute is less than 1 liter, the fuel pump is faulty
If the amount of fuel pumped per minute is less than a liter, the pump is faulty. The reasons for this may be:
- faulty valves;
- rupture of one or more membranes;
- clogging of the pump grid;
- wear of the drive rod (pusher).
We carry out further checks in the following order:
- Disconnect both fuel line hoses from the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses - Checking the intake valve. To do this, plug the corresponding fitting with your finger and press the manual fuel pump lever several times. You should feel the vacuum (suction) with your finger. If it is not there, the valve has failed.
- Checking the exhaust valve.
Place your finger on the outlet fitting and press the lever. The air pressure should be felt at the outlet. Otherwise, the exhaust valve is faulty. When you press the manual pumping lever, you should feel a vacuum at the inlet fitting, and a pressure of air at the outlet - If everything is in order with the valves, check the condition of the filter mesh.
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the pump cover. We remove it from there and inspect the mesh for clogging. The grid is fine - let's move on. The mesh filter should not show signs of damage or deformation - Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the pump mounting nuts.
- Carefully, so as not to damage the gaskets, remove the device from the studs, drain the gasoline from it, and remove the pusher.
Unscrew the two nuts and remove the fuel pump from the studs. - Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the 6 screws connecting the 2 parts of the pump housing.
We disassemble the device, remove the rod with membranes. Unscrew the top nut with a 10mm wrench and remove the membranes from the rod. We assess their condition. They should not have cracks, breaks, or signs of deformation. To disassemble the pump you need to unscrew 6 screws around the circumference of the housing. - Using a caliper or ruler, measure the length of the fuel pump drive rod.
It should be 82.4 mm. If it is less, or the rod has signs of wear on any of its ends, it is unsuitable for further work. The length of the pusher should be 82.4 mm
Mechanical replacement
If you find problems with the fuel pump, you can try to repair it yourself, or replace it with a new one. In the first case, it is better to buy a repair kit. It includes all the elements of the device that can fail: valves, gaskets, diaphragms and pusher.
If you decide to replace the pump assembly, it is even easier.
After dismantling the faulty device, you need to:
- Install new gaskets and pusher.
- Place the pump in place and secure it with nuts.
- Connect the fuel line hoses and secure them with clamps.
- Press the manual primer lever several times to fill the pump with fuel.
- Start the engine and check its operation.
A new fuel pump is installed on new gaskets
Checking the electrical circuit
Unlike a carburetor engine, where the fuel pump is mechanically driven, on the injection VAZ 2110/2112 a special relay and fuse are responsible for the operation of this device. Therefore, before moving on to diagnosing the pump itself, it is necessary to check the indicated elements. If any one of them is faulty, the pump will not work at all.
Turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When the fuel pump is running, it emits a characteristic “whistle” when started. If it is not there, it means that either the pump itself has failed, or one of the elements of its power supply circuit has failed.
The pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block located inside the vehicle's center console. It can be accessed by removing the plastic trim (near the front passenger's left foot). It is secured with several screws. Under the cover you will find three relays and three fuses. Typically, the fuel pump circuit protection elements are located centrally.
The relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block under the cladding
To check the fuse, remove it from its socket and “ring” it with a tester. If necessary, replace it, observing the rating (15 A). It is unlikely that it will be possible to check the relay for functionality without special equipment. But you can take another relay, for example, the radiator fan (far left), and install it in place of the one being diagnosed. Turn on the ignition and listen to see if the fuel pump starts working. If yes, buy and install a new relay. If the problem persists, continue diagnostics.
To check the fuel pump relay, you can install the radiator cooling fan relay in its place.
Checking the fuel rail pressure
But even the fact that the fuel pump starts pumping when the ignition is turned on does not mean that it is working properly. The main indicator of its operation is the pressure in the system. You can check it using a regular pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 atmospheres, which is used to measure tire pressure. In addition, you will need a piece of gas-resistant hose with an internal diameter of 9 mm and two clamps of the appropriate size.
The verification procedure is as follows:
- We relieve the pressure in the system. To do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. We remove the plastic lining of the additional mounting block, which contains the relay and fuse for the gasoline pump. We remove the fuse from the socket. Connect the removed terminal to the battery. We start the engine and let it run until it stalls. After that we put the fuse in place.
- On the fuel rail we find a fitting specially designed for measuring pressure.
Using the wheel valve cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting. The fitting is designed specifically for measuring pressure - We put one end of the hose on the fitting and secure it with a clamp. We connect the second end to the pressure gauge and also secure it with a clamp.
- Turn on the ignition and wait for the pump to pump fuel into the system.
- We look at the pressure gauge readings.
A regular tire pressure gauge is suitable for measuring fuel pressure in the rail.
For engines with a volume of 1500 cm3 it should be 2.8–3.2 atmospheres, and for power units with a volume of 1600 cm3 – 3.6–4 atmospheres. If the device indicators are lower, the pump is unsuitable for further use.
Performance check
Checking its performance will help make sure that the fuel pump has failed. For this you will need:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- a piece of gas-resistant hose (50–80 cm) with a clamp;
- key to 17;
- empty 2 liter plastic bottle;
- a piece of insulated wire;
- stopwatch.
Performance testing is carried out as follows:
- We remove the back seat. We lift the carpet and find the gas tank hatch under it. Unscrew the two screws (diagonally).
- Once you remove the hatch, you will see the top of the fuel module. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nut of the outlet fitting. We put a hose on it and secure the connection with a clamp. We lower the other end of the hose into an empty bottle.
- Disconnect the pump power connector. Using a piece of wire, we supply power to the positive contact of the device from the corresponding battery terminal. We connect the negative one to ground.
- We begin counting the time from the moment the pump starts.
A working fuel injection pump for a VAZ 2110/2112 should pump 1.5 liters of fuel in one minute. If this indicator is lower, the pump must be replaced.
Replacing the fuel pump on injection vehicles VAZ 2110/2112
Required tools:
- screwdriver with Phillips bit;
- thin slotted screwdriver;
- key to 17;
- key to 7;
- key to 5.
Procedure for replacing the fuel pump:
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Open the gas tank cap for a few seconds to reduce the pressure inside.
- Remove the rear seat, unscrew the screws, and open the hatch.
Unscrew the two screws securing the protective hatch - Disconnect the electrical connector.
Disconnect the electrical connector - Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts of the pump inlet and outlet fittings.
We move the tubes to the sides. On the latest modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, the fittings are plastic, and the connection to the gas pipeline pipes is made not with nuts, but with latches. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts of the pump fittings - Using a 7 wrench, unscrew the 8 nuts securing the pressure ring (flange) of the module.
Remove the ring and the rubber seal underneath it. Using a 7 wrench, unscrew the 8 nuts securing the fuel module flange - We remove the fuel module from the tank, carefully removing the float of the level sensor.
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the sensor to the pump body.
Let's take it off. Disconnect the pump power connector. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the fuel level sensor - Using a thin slotted screwdriver, remove the clamps on the module guides.
Use a screwdriver to remove the clamps on the guides - Remove the pump from the guides.
- Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the 2 screws securing the pump cover.
If the nuts on them rotate, hold them with a size 5 wrench. Using a slotted screwdriver and a size 5 wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the fuel pump cover - Remove the cover and remove the fuel pump from the plastic housing.
We install a new device in its place. We remove the fuel pump from the housing and install a new one in its place. - We reassemble in reverse order.
- When installing the module, make sure that the arrow on its flange points to the rear of the car.
- If the rubber seal is damaged, it must also be replaced. https://www.youtube.com/embed/vAJqmUZPyXU
Having completed the assembly, we check the operation of the new fuel pump.
The process of replacing a VAZ 2110/2112 fuel pump, regardless of its design, does not require any special skills and can be done independently. However, if you are not particularly confident in your own abilities, it is better to contact the nearest car service center.
- Author: Alexander Smirnov
The fuel pump does not turn on, what is the reason?
If your car has an electric fuel pump, then there may be problems with the discharge section of the device. The electric motor rarely fails. Only after a car has driven more than 200 thousand kilometers can the brushes and then the commutator wear out. Wear of supercharger parts occurs due to:
- Low quality gasoline, which contains very small particles of mechanical impurities, which leads to wear of the gasoline pump after a year of operation.
- Pump performance decreases when operating clearances increase.
- In winter, when water gets into gasoline, which turns into ice, scuffs and cavities occur. In addition, pieces of ice can create jamming. This is accompanied by an increase in current in the electric motor, causing it to quickly overheat, which can lead to ignition in the fuel tank.
- In hot summer weather, at elevated temperatures, the density of gasoline decreases, and this reduces its lubricating properties, which leads to wear of parts.
Tip: Do not allow the gas pump to operate without supplying gasoline, which serves as a lubricant for the device, to prevent jamming.
If the wear of the discharge section has reached a critical value, which is associated with a decrease in engine response and a decrease in its power, the pump may jam at any time. In this case, immediate repair of the device or a quick replacement of the VAZ 2112 fuel pump is needed. So:
- When the discharge section of the pump jams, the fuse trips, which leads to the breakdown of the clutch fork, made of plastic, which connects the shafts of the electric motor and the discharge section. This design prevents damage to the electric motor.
- A lack of gasoline in the tank negatively affects the operation of the gas pump. When accelerating or braking, and even more so when turning, moments may arise when gasoline does not enter the pump and it picks up air.
Tip: If the light comes on, indicating that there is not enough gasoline in the tank, you need to top it up as soon as possible. Frequent trips with a light bulb can increase the frequency of replacing the fuel pump.
- Proper operation of the fuel pump prevents fuel fire or explosion. Even in the absence of gasoline, there is a high concentration of gasoline vapor in the tank and a moment may come that will become a precondition for a fire.
Advice: Before turning on the ignition of a VAZ 2112 car that has been sitting for a long time without use, you need to fill its tank with gasoline, which will prevent possible ignition and explosion.
- You can extend the operation of the gas pump by using a filter mesh when filling gasoline, which will trap small debris, prevent filter clogging and extend the period between cleaning the tank.
Diagnostics of fuel pump operation
To determine the condition of the fuel pump, you need to know its performance and developed pressure. The pressure gauge is connected to the fuel system through a special adapter. It is better to diagnose the node at a service station or approximately at home. So:
- The pump does not work if, when the ignition is turned on, there is no characteristic hum indicating that the pump is starting. It's bad if it makes a lot of noise. This indicates greater overload, which means a reduction in its service life.
- When driving on a flat road in third and fourth gears, you can see that the pump's performance has decreased. A deterioration in the parameters of the fuel pump is indicated by the lack of reaction of the car when you press the gas pedal.
- In winter, testing is as follows: increasing the density of gasoline reduces the pressure for pumping fuel, and if the pump is worn out, gasoline does not flow through a dirty filter, the engine does not start. For a temporary solution, you can replace the filter.
A faulty fuel pump may need to be repaired, but it is better if the fuel pump in the VAZ 2112 is replaced.
Replacing the fuel pump
To carry out work, the fuel pump must be removed from the tank. For this:
- The battery is disconnected.
- The rear seat cushion is removed.
- Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew two self-tapping screws.
- The hatch cover is removed.
- The electrical connector is disconnected.
- On the fuel supply pipe, turn the fitting to “17” with a key.
- The tube is moved to the side.
- In a similar way, the fitting on the drain pipeline is unscrewed, and the tube is moved to the side.
- It is released from fixation and the pressure ring is removed.
- The VAZ 2112 fuel pump installation unit is carefully lifted, the float is removed from the tank hole, and removed together with the electric fuel pump.
- The rubber o-ring is removed.
- The screws holding the fuel level indicator are unscrewed, which is then disconnected.
- The pump is disconnected from the electrical connector.
- Using a screwdriver, two clamps are removed, and the fuel pump is removed from the guides.
- The fuel pump cover is released from the fastening and removed.
- The fuel pump is pulled out, the general view of which is shown in the photo.
- On a VAZ 2112, replacing a fuel pump ends with installing a new product.
- The fuel pump assembly in the tank is installed so that the arrow on the flange of the device points to the rear of the car.
A fuel pump is installed on the VAZ 21124; all rubber O-rings also require replacement. They should not have abrasions, tears or signs of strong compression. The instructions stipulate that before installing the cover on the hatch, start the VAZ 2112 engine and check for fuel leaks in the fuel pump assembly. If the vehicle is used correctly and the fuel pump is replaced in a timely manner, the cost of repairing the VAZ will be kept to a minimum.
A gasoline pump is a part of a car that is responsible for supplying fuel from the gasoline tank to the nozzles.
For the first time, an electric gasoline pump was invented in the USA in the 70s of the 20th century. In the mid-90s, almost all automakers switched to this system, abandoning the mechanical one. Replacing a gasoline pump on a VAZ-2112 is quite easy and does not require special knowledge or skills.
Video on replacing the fuel pump on front-wheel drive VAZs, including the VAZ-2112:
The video material will tell you how to replace a gasoline pump, and also give some recommendations and tips.
Causes: fuse, relay, connector
The pump power circuit includes many elements: closed relay contacts 5, fuse 3 (15 A), “+” wire, “pump-to-ground” wire. The most “difficult” defect is a short circuit of the “+” wire to ground. By the way, the cord itself is laid on metal, so such a defect cannot be ruled out.
Mounting block for dashboard
Both the relay and the fuse are located in a block located under the dashboard on the right. A fuse can blow in two cases:
- The “+” cord makes contact with ground;
- The motor resistance decreases due to overheating.
The first defect may be “floating”, and then it will be difficult to identify. But before calling an electrician, try checking everything else:
- Relay 5 should click twice: when the ignition is turned on and after 1.5 s. If this does not happen, replace the relay;
- Check fuse 3. If it is blown, you need to look for the cause.
Consider the situation: the relay is working, but the fuse is blown. Then we do this: disconnect the pump connector, install a new fuse and measure the voltage at the terminals. Details are below.
Connectors under the hatch, disconnecting them
You need to remove the hatch under the rear seat: two screws are unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. Next you need to disconnect the connector on the module, and then move on to the block under the dashboard.
First, turn off the fuel pump!
Replace the fuse. Let's move on to the fuel pump: connect the probe (zero cord) to any of the mounting studs. Voltage should appear on the “gray” wire when the ignition is turned on. And also check the potential difference between the “gray” and “black” wires - it should be equal to 12 volts, and also at the moment the ignition is turned on. Wiring:
- The two outer cords are the FLS sensor;
- “Black” – minus power supply;
- "Grey" is a plus.
The "black wire" sometimes loses contact with ground. At the last step, we checked exactly this version.
There are reviews from owners that say: the fuel pump on a VAZ-2112 does not work if the electric motor is working properly and there is voltage in the connector. This happens when the contacts of the internal terminal block oxidize (see photo).
Internal connector - yellow
Getting to the connector on the motor is not easy - you need to remove the fuel pump module by unscrewing 8 nuts around the perimeter.
Diagnosing the fuel pump
Safety precautions
Before unscrewing the nuts, you need to disconnect the two hoses. But first try starting the engine. The power supply to the fuel pump is not connected.
Please note - the power is turned off here!
Everything is ready for dismantling if:
- External connector is disabled;
- It is impossible to start the engine, although the on-board network is not de-energized;
- It is better if the tank is filled less than 50%.
You need to unscrew two fittings from the module cover (top photo). Then use a socket wrench to unscrew the nuts from the studs and remove the retaining ring.
There is very little left to the internal connector
Having gained access to the internal connector, you need to clean its contacts. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Good luck!
Oxidation of the terminals of the internal connector is a typical disease of the VAZ-2112 fuel pump, and only one of the contacts does not work. The “+” terminal is more often oxidized.
The process of replacing a fuel pump on a VAZ-2112
General view of the fuel pump module
The gasoline pump on the VAZ-2112 is located in the fuel tank.
The type of part is called submersible. Therefore, to replace it you will need to pull it out from the gas tank. It contains the FLS (fuel level sensor), which transmits readings.
- Disconnect the battery.
Removing the battery terminal for repair - We are dismantling the rear sofa.
Pull the loop to remove the rear sofa - Unscrew the two screws securing the top plate.
- Remove the hatch cover.
Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the fuel pump hatch cover. - Disconnect the power connectors on the fuel pump.
Disconnect the power cable connector - Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the fuel supply pipes.
Unscrew the fuel supply pipes - Now, release the pressure ring and dismantle it.
Remove the sealing ring - We carefully lift the fuel pump and remove the float from the tank cavity.
Remove the fuel pump from the tank - We dismantle the gasoline pump.
- We change the rubber o-ring, which is located on the lower seat.
- We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.
Now the gasoline pump has been replaced and you can continue driving. The average service life of a new product is 150,000 km.
Reasons for fuel pump failure
So, let's look at the main ones:
- Low-quality fuel leads to clogging and failure of the mechanical parts of the gasoline pump.
- Wear of internal parts of the fuel pump.
- The appearance of scuffs and shells, which occur mainly in winter, when the water in gasoline turns into ice.
- In the summer, when the heat is intense, gasoline loses its lubricating properties, which can lead to failure.
Choice
The choice of an electric fuel pump should be approached responsibly, because if it fails on the road, the car will not be able to continue driving. When assembled, this part has the article number - 2112-1139010
. It is used both for the original product produced by AvtoVAZ and for analogues.
The second most popular manufacturer is Pekar
, which has been producing fairly reliable spare parts for VAZ family cars for many years.
The pricing policy for electric submersible gasoline pumps of the 10th-12th generation fluctuates around 1,200 rubles.
Why does the fuel pump not work on a VAZ 2112?
The operating principle of the submersible fuel pump of the VAZ-2112 car is quite simple and the driver needs to know it. When you turn on the ignition, the fuel pump immediately starts working for 5 seconds. It raises the pressure in the rail before starting the engine, then turns off. As soon as the starter turns on, the engine crankshaft begins to rotate, and its rotation triggers the crankshaft rotation sensor, which sends a signal to the computer. The electronic control unit supplies voltage to the fuel pump relay. Through the closed relay contacts, current flows to the contact block of the fuel pump, and it starts working.
If the fuel pump on a VAZ 2112 is not working, you need to start looking for a fault by checking the fuse and relay. They are located under the console on the passenger side. Unscrew the two screws and remove the cover. The fuel pump relay is the middle one, of the three that are there. To the left of the relay is a fuse that needs to be checked.
If both of these devices are intact, then you need to check whether the fuel pump itself can work. To do this, you need to connect it directly to the battery. This can be done easier by using the diagnostic block, but if you haven’t figured out which contacts you need to connect the wires to in the diagnostic block, then use long wires to connect the battery to the contacts in the block of the fuel pump itself. If the pump is working, then the fault will need to be looked for either in the crankshaft rotation sensor or in the ECU itself.
If your car has an anti-theft alarm, then it is possible that another relay is installed in the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. It can also fail. You will have to find the place to install it yourself.
If the fuel pump on a VAZ-2112 car fails, its further movement becomes problematic, but if the fuel pump itself is intact, then by connecting it directly you can get to the place where you can find this fault.
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conclusions
Replacing a gasoline pump on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands is not difficult. The total time of the operation is about 1.5 hours, unless force majeure occurs in the form of a break in the power contact group or a breakdown of the pipeline connector.
A good VAZ 2110 (Lada-110) fuel pump is capable of operating for at least 100 thousand kilometers. Problems with a faulty fuel pump manifest themselves gradually and quite painfully: the car begins to lose power or stall at idle, and then may even fail at the most inopportune moment.
Knowing how to replace a fuel pump on a VAZ 2110 will not only improve your professional skills as a motorist, but will also save you a considerable amount of time and money! Replacing the fuel supply pump on a Lada-110 yourself takes no more than 20 minutes. your personal time, and understanding the nature and causes of the malfunction guarantees reliable operation of the car on the most critical day.
Fuel pump on VAZ 2110, 2112: main causes of malfunction
An injection type fuel pump is a relatively complex system consisting of:
- float type fuel level sensor;
- fuel intake filter mesh;
- electric motor;
- mechanical inlet valve and exhaust type valve;
- solenoid valve;
- other mechanical parts
Failure of any of the above components ultimately leads to a drop in pressure in the fuel supply system or a complete stop of the car - the “tens” fuel pump needs to be replaced or repaired. An equally important role is also played by the quality of the fuel pumped through the injector and the cleanliness of the fuel tank.
Fuel pump VAZ 2110 injector, fault diagnosis
The fuel pump for Lada-110 is the heart of your car; when the pressure supplied to the fuel injector drops, the car’s power is inevitably lost, the car periodically stalls at idle or has difficulty starting. In this case, most likely, the fuel pump mesh is clogged and repairs should begin with replacing it.
By measuring the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, you can also speak with a high degree of probability about the causes of the malfunction. So, a clogged filter will cause a low pressure reading at the output of the regulator, and high values hint at problems directly in the regulator itself.
Normal pressure on the injector from the Lada-110 fuel pump depending on the engine type, ranges:
* from 2.8 to 3.3 kgf per cm2 (284-325 kPa) for engines type 2111 and 2112; * from 3.6 to 4.0 kgf per cm2 (364-400 kPa) for engines type 21114 and 21124.
If you have insufficient skills in measuring pressure, you can very tentatively conclude that the VAZ 2110 fuel pump is working properly, having pumped gasoline into the container through the main fuel supply hose. A working fuel pump will pump at least 1.5 liters in a minute. gasoline.
If on a VAZ 2110 the fuel pump does not turn on at all, then you should first pay attention to the electrical power supply circuit according to which the VAZ 2110 fuel pump operates, namely:
- serviceability of the fuse in the fuel pump circuit;
- sticking of the fuel pump relay contacts;
- presence of voltage on the terminal block by turning off the “tens” fuel pump and connecting an ordinary 12 V test light to the corresponding power connectors;
- burnout of the electric pump motor windings.
If everything has been checked, but the fuel pump does not work - article numbers
In general, the pump article number for VAZ-2112 engines looks like this: 21102-1139009-XX. Instead of the letters XX there are numbers, for example 02 or 03. They indicate the manufacturer.
The resistance of the FLS resistor is different in them. However, when replacing the FLS sensor, you can borrow it from the “old” module. That's what they usually do.
Until April 2002, article numbers of the type 2112-1139009 were used. Almost every module available for purchase contains a built-in pressure regulator. There are also exceptions - KSZC-A243, for example. The meaning is as follows:
- All internal combustion engines with a volume of 1.5 liters are equipped with a ramp with an “external” regulator (2112-1160010);
- The 21124 or 21114 motor requires a built-in regulator.
In conjunction with 1.5 liter engines, you can use any module – both with and without a built-in regulator.
New fuel pump VAZ 2110, manufacturer's choice (Bosch)
Undoubtedly, the advantage of the domestic automobile industry is a rich variety of cheap replacement parts. However, among about two dozen manufacturers of fuel pumps, it is recommended to buy a VAZ 2110 Bosch fuel pump, which is characterized by high performance and technical performance.
The price of a fuel pump for the 2110 series from Bosch will vary from 1,200 rubles and more. When buying an analogue that is too cheap, there is a high risk of encountering a low-quality fake. Therefore, it is advisable to buy in stores representing an official Bosch dealer.
In addition, pay attention to the tightness of the original packaging and the absence of gasoline odors. For the VAZ 2110, the Bosch fuel pump is sold in tightly sealed transparent plastic packaging with the addition of pure gasoline to prevent drying out of the injectors and corrosion to which the body, as well as the valve of the VAZ 2110 Bosch fuel pump, is susceptible.