Preparatory operations
Changing the pump and roller is a prerequisite so that after a thousand kilometers you don’t have to disassemble everything again. But it’s up to you to decide for the pulley, the price is 150 rubles per pair. There were cars where a slightly bent pulley caused the belt to slip and gradually wear out, reducing its service life. On this car the belt was worn down in half.
Replacement interval
We recommend that you periodically check the condition of the belt to avoid annoying consequences and not have to look for someone to take it to a repair shop. Replace every 40,000 kilometers.
And here is the patient himself.
Everything we need.
We unscrew the three ten bolts securing the protective timing cover and remove it.
Next, loosen the nut thirteen that secure the generator and unscrew the tension bolt ten.
We take the generator to the engine and remove the belt.
Set the top dead center
Remove the engine protection and drain the antifreeze. We set the camshaft mark by turning the crankshaft clockwise. The ebb on the pulley should be opposite the bend of the protective cover fastening.
Unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. We put the assistant in the cabin and force him to engage fifth gear and press the brake. And at this time we easily and naturally unscrew the bolt using a 19 meter head and a pipe of one and a half meters. It must be screwed properly, and some craftsmen lubricate it with sealants and then wait for kind words addressed to them.
On the left side we see the crankshaft position sensor. We will need it to subsequently check the correct installation of the timing belt. We remove the crankshaft pulley and see that the marks match.
Preparatory work
Replacing the timing belt requires some prep work to get to it. To do this, lift the hood and remove the air filter pipe by unscrewing the fastenings of the retaining clamp with a wrench. Next, the belt protective cover is removed, for which you need to unscrew the three bolts that hold it in place. This is done with a regular open-end wrench. In the opened space, the timing belt will be visible, which needs to be replaced.
The front right wheel and the protection under it are first removed to get to the crankshaft pulley, which drives the gas distribution mechanism via a belt. In the cab, put the lever in the fourth gear position and ask the assistant to press the brake pedal. We install the head 19 on a long wrench so that it is convenient to get to the crankshaft pulley, which we unscrew, which will require some effort. After the bolt is broken, you can put the gear in neutral and not hold the brake pedal.
Important feature! To replace the timing belt on a VAZ 2109 8-valve injection engine or a similar VAZ 21099 model, when removing the crankshaft pulley, you need to hold the flywheel, which is best done with a screwdriver. Otherwise, it will rotate along with the pulley. In carburetor engines this problem does not exist; the pulley is held independently.
From the top of the open hood, the nut that holds the tension of the generator belt is loosened; this is best done using a special cardan on which to place the head of the key. The generator pulley is moved so that the belt can be removed without interference. After this, remove the crankshaft pulley so that the gear is visible.
This is interesting: When to change the timing belt on a Tucson
Replacing the pump
Unscrew the nut on the tension roller 17 and remove it along with the belt. Then unscrew the camshaft pulley bolt and remove the last one.
Be careful not to lose the key.
We unscrew everything that secures the protective metal shield, namely one ten-point nut and a bolt securing the cover, three bolts securing the pump.
Remove the protective cover and pump. Antifreeze remaining in the block may leak out if you have not drained it. Carefully, it's sweet.
We clean all the parts from oil and belt residues, as well as the pump seat from the old gasket and sealant.
Lubricate the gasket of the new pump with sealant and put it in place. We install the metal protection and tighten all the bolts and nuts securing it.
We tighten the pump bolts evenly in a circle, then check whether the pump is spinning.
Recently a client brought in an original pump, which turned out to have slightly larger petals and after installation it began to bite. I had to modify it with a grinder and take measurements several times. These are the spare parts we have.
We check if the key is lost on the camshaft and install the pulley. We tighten its bolt to seventeen.
Common Questions
Beginning drivers have many questions in connection with the operation of a timing belt kit. To avoid breakdowns, you need to figure it out in advance.
Why does the belt roller get very hot?
The belt with rollers heats up during operation, this is normal - the temperature is transferred from the motor. If the roller tensioner is secured correctly according to the marks, there is nothing to worry about.
There is a grinding noise - what is the reason?
Noise during a cold engine start occurs for several reasons. Basic:
- Wear of the timing belt set - if the teeth are worn out, a whistle occurs, some parts of the belt drive slip when the pulleys rotate. A quick failure of the unit is likely, and since breaks along the way are dangerous, it is undesirable to postpone maintenance. Sometimes the whistles go away after additional tension on the belt, but this is not a fact.
- Contact with liquids leads to noise when the engine is cold when starting or after replacement. Such symptoms indicate leaks of coolant and engine fluid (not only oil, antifreeze, but any others). It is possible that brake fluid got on the rubber for other reasons; sometimes consumables flow onto the discs from the pulleys. It is necessary to eliminate the leakage factors and replace them.
- Noises after replacement indicate that a low quality kit was installed. It might be cheap or just fake. The problem will only be solved by installing another kit - then the whistles will go away immediately.
Experts also recommend checking the tension rollers if grinding, whistling, or other noise occurs. If they work together, a replacement is needed. Otherwise, more serious problems may begin after the whistles.
What to do if the belt suddenly breaks
Even regular maintenance and thorough maintenance do not prevent breaks 100%. If the belt breaks on the road, you need to check it under the hood and make sure that no other components are damaged. In road conditions it is difficult to install a new set, and it is also virtually impossible to repair the gap. If possible, call a tow truck to deliver the car to a service station or garage. Towing is not recommended. An option for professionals is to install a new set instead of a broken one on site.
Installing a new timing belt
We check that all marks match.
We first place the belt on the crankshaft and pump. Then we tighten the right descending branch of the belt and put it on the camshaft pulley and tension roller. We check all the marks again and tighten the belt with a roller. The tension is considered sufficient if, with the force of two fingers, you can twist the longest branch of the belt by a maximum of 90 degrees. It’s easier to take the right branch of the belt with two fingers and twist it, if more than 90 is not very bad, but less is very bad. An overtightened belt will wear out quickly and will also reduce the life of the pump.
We place the bottom protective plastic cover. And on the crankshaft pulley we mark the twentieth tooth after skipping two teeth. We count counterclockwise.
This mark corresponds to the top dead center of the first cylinder. We put the pulley in place and the mark should be against the crankshaft position sensor. More precisely, against the small iron core of the sensor. Sometimes it gets into the gap between the teeth, this is considered acceptable. We tighten the pulley in the same way as we unscrewed it, with the help of a partner.
We turn the crankshaft two turns and check the marks; this is where our mark on the pulley comes in handy.
If everything is in trouble, we collect everything that we took apart. As they say in smart books, install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Don't forget to add antifreeze.
We start the car, accept congratulations from family and friends and head off to adventure.
Why does the timing belt break on a VAZ 2109?
Many people wonder why the timing belt breaks only after it has happened. You will be lucky if such a breakdown occurs, for example, somewhere in the yards while the engine is warming up, and not on the highway between cities. Therefore, so that you do not find yourself in such situations, you need to know why this happens. There are several reasons for belt breaks:
- Natural wear of the part.
- Buying a defective belt.
- Contact with technical fluids on the belt.
- Malfunction of timing drive parts.
Let's discuss each point in more detail.
Natural wear of the part.
During operation, the belt not only wears out, but also bends, resulting in microcracks that subsequently grow and lead to belt breakage.
Each node has its own service life. The timing belt of the eight-valve VAZ engine operates for 60 thousand kilometers.
Buying a defective belt.
Don't skimp on critical spare parts. By saving 100-200 rubles you can be stuck on the road for a long time.
Contact with technical fluids on the belt.
Oil or coolant can easily get on the timing belt. Oil gets in due to wear on the camshaft and crankshaft seals, and antifreeze can leak out when the pump wears out.
Malfunction of timing drive parts.
Timing drive parts include:
- Camshaft and crankshaft gears.
- Tension roller
- Pump drive gear
Over many thousands of kilometers, the timing gears wear out and the possibility of the belt jumping over a gear tooth increases.
Due to a poor-quality belt tension roller or due to its long use, it may jam. Also, do not overtighten the belt. A belt that is too tight begins to whistle and can break very quickly.
During operation, the pump bearings wear out and play appears at the pump shaft, as a result of which the pump drive gear is crooked and the timing belt begins to slip and rub against the protective casing or the block.
