Crankshaft pulley in the engine system, DIY removal and installation

Author: Ivan Baranov

Many car owners, especially domestically produced vehicles and used foreign cars, try to carry out most of the repair work on their own. Very often, for one reason or another, it becomes necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley of a VAZ 2109 - an injector is installed or a carburetor is installed.

There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet, after reading which you might think that everything is very simple. But one problem arises, namely removing the bolt, which is not only difficult to get to, but sometimes simply impossible to move, let alone unscrew. It's also unclear how to secure the crankshaft to keep it in place. The crankshaft pulley on the VAZ 2109 is deliberately very tightly tightened and, unscrewing it, there is a possibility of damaging various components and systems in the power unit compartment or the paint.

The difficulty is that the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley (or nut, depending on the modification) is tightened with decent force during assembly. This was done to prevent it from spinning up while moving, otherwise the consequences could be simply catastrophic.

[Hide]

Purpose

The pulley is designed to transmit torque to additional units. For this purpose, these same units have a counter pulley. It is attached to the crankshaft using a keyed connection, and fixation is carried out with a nut or bolt.

The pulley is a flat wheel with a special channel into which a rubber belt is installed. When the belt is tensioned sufficiently, it engages tightly with the pulley, and due to this, the belt drive works and transmits rotation. These elements for modern cars are made mainly from steel, aluminum, and less often from cast iron.

How to remove a crankshaft pulley bolt: why is everything so complicated?

A knowledgeable motorist usually spends no more than a quarter of an hour on the process of dismantling the crankshaft pulley. But inexperienced drivers, when trying to remove this part on their own, are faced with many problems that they often simply cannot solve. The instructions for carrying out repair work and maintenance of any modern vehicle contain comprehensive information about the dismantling process, but, unfortunately, it does not help car enthusiasts.

First of all, difficulties arise with fixing the crankshaft. It is very difficult to dismantle it if the part is constantly rotating, “slipping” out of your hands. It is also not clear to many from which side to approach the bolt that holds the pulley. And its strong tightening usually makes the process of removing the unit very, very difficult, since dismantling under such conditions is fraught with damage to the body covering or elements of the car’s engine compartment.

All car manufacturers and car service specialists use great force to tighten the nut or bolt of the crankshaft pulley (on some vehicle models the mechanism is supported by a bolt, in others by a nut).

This is done specifically to avoid self-unwinding of this part during vehicle operation. If a bolt (nut) falls out while driving, it will not be easy to bring the car back to life in order to continue driving it, and the repair itself will cost, believe me, a pretty penny. In addition, the described fasteners increase their tightening level independently when the engine is running. And the final “indestructibility” of the bolt is given by the phenomena of coking, sticking, and corrosion.

How to unscrew a pulley bolt in front-wheel drive models

The bolt is used as a fastening element for the crankshaft pulley in front-wheel drive vehicles. In such models, the block is placed perpendicular to the axis of the car. Unlike dismantling the nut in rear-wheel drive modifications, this method requires more time due to the need to remove additional parts. To perform the work you need to prepare the following tools:

• A jack and an additional supporting element, a stump will do just fine.
• Standard set of automotive tools.
• A socket head, the size of which is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the bolt.
• You will also need an extension arm to make work easier.

Unscrew the pulley bolt

The bolt is used primarily in the design of front-wheel drive vehicles. In this case, the block is located perpendicular to the axis. The process of unscrewing the bolt is a little more difficult because it is more difficult to get to. To perform this operation you need:

• jack, as well as a supporting element (stump or sawhorses);
• set of tools;
• socket head (depending on the size of the bolt head installed on the pulley of your car);
• the lever will fit the same as in the case of rear-wheel drive cars.

Now let's move on to the process of unscrewing the bolt, the order of our actions will be as follows:

1. We lift the front part of the car with a jack and install it on a “goat” (stump).
2. Remove the front right wheel.
3. We open the hood and remove all the parts that prevent us from getting to the crankshaft pulley, namely the casing and the air filter. You can also eliminate other parts that may prevent you from removing the pulley.
4. Remove the generator belt.
5. We remove the clutch block plug and insert a pry bar into the hole to jam the flywheel teeth.
6. Using the lever, we try to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt with a wrench. If you lubricate it with WD-40 before doing this, the process should go easier. In the case where it is not possible to unscrew it manually, you can try to perform the steps with briefly turning on the ignition, which we wrote about above.

Engine assembly

Assemble the engine as follows.

Place a clean cylinder block on the stand and screw the missing studs into it. Install the generator mounting bracket and secure it with two bolts.

Lubricate the bearing shells and thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repair, install new crankshaft oil seals.

Install liners with a groove in the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th seats of the cylinder block, and liners without a groove in the 3rd seat of the cylinder block and in the main bearing caps. Place the crankshaft in the main bearings and insert the thrust half rings () into the seat of the middle main bearing.

Install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (). Unfold the covers so that the marks on each of them are on the side where the generator is installed. Tighten the cover bolts.

Check the axial free play of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the cylinder block with its back side up and install a stand with an indicator on it so that the indicator leg rests against the crankshaft flange. Moving the shaft up and down (for example, with screwdrivers), measure the axial free play of the shaft () with an indicator. It should be in the range of 0.06–0.26 mm. If the stroke is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half-rings with new ones or installing half-rings of increased thickness.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9571, press the rear crankshaft oil seal into the holder (). Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9572 and move it from the mandrel to the crankshaft flange. Place a gasket under the holder and attach it to the cylinder block with bolts and spring washers.

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (cone-shaped hole) near the rim is opposite the axis of the crankpin of the fourth cylinder. Install the flywheel washer and bolts. Lock the flywheel with clamp 67.7820.9526 (see) and tighten the fastening bolts. Apply UG-6 sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts before installation. To ensure that the sealant adheres securely, degrease the bolts and threaded holes in the crankshaft before applying it.

Select pistons for cylinders according to class and one weight group and assemble the pistons with connecting rods, as indicated in the “Connecting rod and piston group” subsection. Using the bushing from kit A.60604, insert the pistons with connecting rods () into the cylinders.

The kit includes bushings of normal and repair sizes of pistons. Therefore, it is necessary to select a sleeve suitable for the given size of the piston being installed. You can also use the adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517.

Install the bearings into the connecting rods and connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and caps onto the crankshaft journals and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cap is opposite the cylinder number on the lower end of the connecting rod.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9580, press the crankshaft front oil seal into the oil pump cover. Fill the oil pump with some engine oil and rotate the drive gear several times. Install the oil pump with the crankshaft front oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9580 and turn the drive gear to a position so that it can be placed on the crankshaft journal. Move the pump from the mandrel to the shaft, install a gasket under the pump and attach it to the cylinder block.

For proper installation of the pump, two guide pins () are pressed into its housing, which must fit into the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.

Insert the oil receiver with the O-ring into the hole in the oil pump, attach it to the oil pump and to the cover of the second main bearing of the crankshaft (see).

Install oil sump 5 with gasket 4 and secure it.

Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and install the oil filter by hand screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block.

Insert two centering sleeves () into the cylinder block and install the cylinder head gasket over them. For a correctly installed gasket, the oil passage hole (edged with copper tape) should be in the area of ​​the 5th cylinder head bolt (see bolt number).

Rotate the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.

Install the cylinder head, assembled in accordance with the instructions in subsection, onto the centering bushings. "Cylinder head". Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a specific sequence (). To ensure a reliable seal and avoid tightening the bolts during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:

1st step - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 N·m (2 kgf·m);

2nd step - tighten the bolts to a torque of 69.4–85.7 N·m (7.1–8.7 kgf·m);

Step 3 - tighten the bolts 90°;

Step 4 - tighten all the bolts again by 90°.

Insert the coolant pump with the gasket into the cylinder block socket. Install the rear timing belt cover and attach it together with the pump cover to the cylinder block. Additionally, attach the cover with a bolt to the cylinder block and a nut to the stud on the cylinder head.

Insert segment keys into the slots at the front ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and install the toothed pulleys. Having blocked the camshaft pulley from turning, secure it with a bolt and washer.

Using tool 67.7811.9509, turn the camshaft until the mark on the pulley aligns with the installation lug on the rear cover of the toothed belt ().

Turn the crankshaft towards a smaller rotation angle until the alignment mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the oil pump cover (). You can turn the crankshaft using a wrench using a bolt temporarily screwed into the front end of the crankshaft.

Install the tension roller with an axle (or without an axle if the roller has a plastic rim) and a spacer ring and secure it in the position of minimum belt tension.

Place the timing belt on the crankshaft pulley and, while tensioning both branches of the belt, put the left branch on the coolant pump pulley and place it behind the tension roller. Place the belt on the camshaft pulley and lightly tension it with the tension roller, turning the roller axis counterclockwise. When installing the belt, avoid sharp bends.

Rotate the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation and check that the alignment marks ( and ) are aligned. If the marks do not match, then loosen the belt tension, remove it from the camshaft pulley, turn the pulley to the required angle, put on the belt, slightly tension it with the tension roller, turn the crankshaft two turns again and check that the alignment marks match.

If the marks coincide, adjust the belt tension as described in subsection. "Camshaft and its drive."

Adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism as indicated in the “Cylinder Head” subsection. Install the front timing belt cover and secure it with bolts.

Carefully place the gasket into the groove of the cylinder head cover along the entire perimeter. Install the cover on the cylinder head, put the rubber bushings on the studs and attach the nuts and washers. If the bushings show signs of destruction, replace them with new ones. Tighten the nuts evenly in several steps until the washer rests on the stud. Remember that the tightness of the cover depends on the thoroughness of all installation operations.

Wrap the spark plugs and coolant temperature gauge and oil pressure warning light sensors into the cylinder head.

Install the outlet pipe 3 () of the cooling jacket with a gasket on the cylinder head and secure it with two nuts. Install the gasket and attach the flange of the inlet pipe 1 of the coolant pump to the cylinder block. Place the hoses leading to the thermostat onto the pipe and supply pipe, install thermostat 2 and secure the hoses with clamps.

Install the auxiliary housing with the O-ring on the cylinder head and secure it with a bolt. When installing the housing, pay special attention to the position of the sealing ring in the groove, since when tightening the nuts, it may jump out of the groove and bite between the edges of the groove and the surface of the cylinder head. If the sealing ring shows signs of being bitten, it must be replaced with a new one.

In accordance with the instructions in the “Fuel Pump” chapter, install the heat-insulating spacer with gaskets, the pusher and the fuel pump.

Lubricate with engine oil and place the O-ring on the flange of the ignition distributor. Attach the sensor-distributor to the body of the auxiliary units in such a position that the middle mark on the flange of the sensor-distributor is opposite the mounting lug on the body of the auxiliary units (

). At the same time, install the high voltage wire bracket under the upper fastening nut. The ignition sensor-distributor shaft is connected to the camshaft shank in only one position. Therefore, before installation, rotate the shaft so that the cams of the shaft coupling fit into the grooves of the camshaft shank.

Place gaskets on the cylinder head studs, install exhaust manifold 1 () and tighten the central nut securing it. Then install the inlet pipe 3, warm air intake 4, bracket 2 of the coolant pump inlet pipe and secure them with nuts.

Install the crankcase exhaust ventilation hose and secure it with clamps to the pipes of the block and cylinder head cover. Install the oil level indicator.

Place the generator drive pulley on the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt and washer. Install tension bar 1 (see) and generator. Place the belt on the crankshaft and generator pulleys and adjust its tension as indicated in the “Generator” subsection.

Install the carburetor heat shield, spacer and carburetor. Secure it with nuts and close the top with a technological plug.

Install the gasoline supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor and secure it with clamps. Install the hose of the vacuum regulator of the ignition sensor-distributor, as well as the hoses for supplying and discharging fluid from the cooling system to the carburetor.

Install hoses going to the heater on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and on the inlet pipe of the coolant pump and secure them with clamps.

Connect the high voltage wires to the ignition distributor and to the spark plugs. Secure the wire comb in bracket 2 (see).

Fill the engine with oil through the filler neck on the cylinder head cover.

Dismantling and replacement

Regardless of the design, where the part is located, it is important to remove and install it in the same order. Depending on the location of the motor, the part is located in the front part behind the cooling radiator. But if the motor is placed across the engine compartment, then your hand will not reach the part. Because to remove the crankshaft pulley, you need to remove the right wheel. If it is difficult to change, it makes sense to pay attention to the drawing, the work will speed up.

The vehicle is rolled onto the inspection hole and secured so that the car does not move from its place. To get there and remove the structure, you need to unscrew all the parts that impede access (air filter, mud flaps, etc.). Remove the generator belt. Next, open the clutch block plug and insert a pry bar into the hole to lock the flywheel.

The elements of the part are characterized by strong fixation, so they are not easy to remove. To turn a part, it is necessary to make a lot of effort. If dismantling is performed for the first time, it will be difficult to unscrew the crankshaft pulley. The reason is that factory production is characterized by strong tightening of the component parts.

Important!

The right screw pattern means that the unscrewing process occurs counterclockwise. The car part spins in the other direction, so if it has oxidized, it is not so easy to disassemble it; it is useful to use additional means.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut

When turning fasteners, it is important to follow the recommendations, then the process will take at least 15 minutes. The effort should be applied as close to the camshaft as possible:

• use a pry bar to pry it up from all sides;
• If necessary, use a special universal crankshaft pulley puller for this part.

The device is presented in the form of a hairpin with 2-3 grips. The end of the gripper is secured to the edges of the part, and the end of the pin is placed in the middle of the shaft.

Scroll clockwise. But not all brands of cars turn clockwise; in some cars, the work must be done in the opposite direction. In this case, it is important to put your gear lever in 4th speed and turn on the handbrake.

If you can’t turn it, the lever should be in the neutral position. The next step is to remove the candlesticks. The key is placed on the floor or on the rear side member and turned in the direction of movement of the device.

All maneuvers make it easier to scroll, so further actions must be performed manually; if necessary, lubricate with brake fluid or WD grease. In addition, tapping the edges of the head can make your work easier.

How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt

To do the job efficiently, the disassembled machine is placed on a stump. The pin holds the part together and is usually found in front-wheel drive automatic cars. The thread is designed in such a way that it is tightened during the torque when moving.

It is necessary to perform actions that open access to the base. To do this, it is important to stop the rotation well. A mount is used as a fixation. The tool is inserted into the flywheel gears. It must be adjusted securely so that it does not fall out during the turning process. Therefore, it is better to do the work with an assistant. Next, put a socket head of the same diameter as the pin onto the pin, attach a lever and an extension (a piece of durable pipe). After this they begin to slowly unscrew it.

Important!

The longer the extension, the easier it is to unwind.

People's automobile experience

The difficulty of dismantling lies in the specially selected strong connection, without play. The fasteners are tightly screwed. They practice using a pry bar, while slowly pressing on the back surface of the part.

When purchasing a part, you must have new fasteners. You will need a front oil seal and suspension belts. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the grooves and marks. They must be free of defects. Otherwise, after a while you need to replace everything with a new one.

Important!

When performing work, you need to pay attention to the crankcase ventilation system. If contaminated, under the influence of excess pressure, the oil seal will leak lubricant. When screwing, you need patience and, as a rule, you can achieve results after 3-4 attempts.

Possible faults

Part designed to last for 10 years.

List of possible problems:

• a burst rubber layer, which causes noise when the engine is running (a sign is the characteristic hum and timing noise);
• spontaneous unscrewing by cut parts;
• worn grooves, which affect premature belt wear;
• when beating during an accident, part of the part may break off, which leads to further breakdowns (therefore, after an accident, it is important to check the technical serviceability of the AvtoVAZ);

When purchasing a functional disk separately, you must choose the original part, no matter how much it costs. This contributes to reliable and long-lasting operation of the vehicle. Even if a simple part is turned, the size may not match.

Pulley malfunctions and checking their condition

The pulley and belt drives operate by friction between the contact surfaces, so a common reason for replacing a pulley is wear out of the working plane. Due to dynamic loads, the metal of the pulleys cracks and chips.

Another typical problem for such parts is key play in the crankshaft keyway. The reason for this is wear on the landing planes of the pulley with the shaft. The pulley fastener with such a malfunction gradually unscrews due to vibrations, increasing the play more and more.

Prolonged operation of the crankshaft with a “loose” pulley will lead to wear and tear of the keyway itself and unscrewing of the crankshaft pulley. Next, the entire assembly rotates on the seat, destroying the key joint, the pulley housing and the crankshaft itself. If a crankshaft pulley is torn off on your engine, there is a high probability that the entire crankshaft will need to be replaced.

In order to determine the condition of the crankshaft pulley, you must:

1. remove the pulley belts, inspect its edges and body for damage, cracks, wear;
2. shake the pulley; if there is critical play, the assembly must be disassembled and inspected for wear and damage;
3. Usually, repair instructions contain the dimensions of permissible wear of parts, distances to the nearest engine components. Checking these dimensions will help determine the suitability of the pulleys for further use.

Features of work

At first glance, there is nothing difficult in simply removing the bolt securing the pulley to the engine crankshaft flange. However, this is not quite true. The crankshaft pulley bolt very rarely unscrews and always sticks. Therefore, there is a risk of breaking it. First we need to get to this pulley. To do this, unscrew the bolt securing the generator to the tension bar. The latter is attached to the engine cylinder block.

The generator is moved towards the engine, and the drive belt is removed from the pulleys. It can be rivulet type or serrated. Now, having reached the desired element, proceed to further actions.

Video

This video contains useful tips on how to unscrew the nut securing the pulley to the crankshaft of a car engine.

An option for unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolt using a poly V-belt.

How to remove the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ (2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115).

How to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Bolted connection.

How to tighten a crankshaft pulley very quickly.

Removes the crankshaft pulley on a Honda car without a special key.

Any modern internal combustion engine has additional equipment: generators, pumps, compressors, cooling system pump. For all these mechanisms to work, it is necessary to transmit torque from the crankshaft to the engine equipment. To achieve this, car manufacturers use belt drives. A pulley or several pulleys are installed on the toe side of the crankshaft (from the front of the engine). The mating pulleys of engine components and assemblies are mounted on the engine block, the rotation of which is ensured by a belt drive. The pulley is attached to the crankshaft using a key connection and secured with a bolt or nut.

Structurally, a pulley is a flat wheel with a special channel on the end surface where the belt is placed. Provided there is sufficient tension, the belt engages the pulley and the belt drive begins to operate. Such pulleys are made of steel, aluminum, cast iron.

Why is it difficult to remove the pulley?

No. 1. Depending on the engine design, make and model of the car, the difficulty of removing the pulley varies. Some machines have a lot of space to comfortably carry out repair work, while others have very little free space. The pulley design elements cover the pulley.

The structure of pulleys is also different, there are 2 types:

ordinary; damper.

Damper pulleys have an additional outer ring with an elastic band in their design, which absorbs vibrations and micro-vibrations.

Before you start removing the pulley, you need to loosen the tension nuts and bolts, remove the generator and power steering belt.

No. 2. In the factory assembly, the pulley is seated on the engine crankshaft, pressed with a bolt or nut and tightened with high compression force. Thus, the factory assembly is very strong. Therefore, if you have never removed the pulley, it will be more difficult to dismantle it the first time.

In addition to tightening with the maximum permissible force with a special torque wrench, during operation, the engine becomes very hot, the threaded connection is tightened even more and sticks. And external factors influence the outside, due to which the threaded connection may be subject to corrosion.

Some engine models cannot be repaired; they are disposable. These are, for example: 1AZ-FSE, 3UZ-FSE. Each power unit was examined in detail.

No. 3. If you disengage the clutch, the engine crankshaft can be freely turned with a wrench. Therefore, in order to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut, you need to stop the shaft from turning. If, when you press the clutch, the speeds do not change, then it is not working. Air may have entered the system. In this case, you need to bleed the clutch.

Why are special technological holes made in pulleys? In auto repair shops, there is a special device for fixing the shaft, which must be bolted to the pulley and the shaft locked.

If there is no special device for fixing the shaft, which is screwed to the pulley, then you need to install good anti-roll devices under the wheels of the car and put 4th gear on the gearbox.

Or, the third option is to rest a pry bar against the flywheel teeth and fix the crankshaft from turning while unscrewing the pulley nut.

Another option is to insert a pin into the pulley hole, and install a pry bar around the pin and the second stop, as in this figure.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109, 2108 with your own hands

To determine the accuracy of the belt replacement sequence, I found a pretty good description on the website https://www.vazmaster.ru/. Let's begin!

1. It is necessary to clean the engine of dust, oil, and contaminants (it is both beneficial for the engine and much more pleasant to work with).

2. Next, remove the protective cover that covers the timing belt.

Removing the timing belt protection cover

3. In any convenient way for you (by a hung wheel in 4th gear, by a camshaft gear bolt, or other methods), you need to align the marks on the camshaft gear and its housing, which will correspond to TDC in the 1st cylinder.

Combined marks on the RV pulley

4.Next, you need to unscrew the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley; you can lock the shaft using a screwdriver. It is necessary to ensure that the shaft does not rotate and remains in the same position.

Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley

5. Remove the crankshaft pulley

Removing the crankshaft pulley VAZ 2108, 2109

6. We loosen the tension of the timing belt; this can be done by loosening the nut that secures the tension roller.

Loosening the tension roller VAZ 2108, 2109

7. Remove the belt

Removing the timing belt VAZ 2108, 2109

8. Then everything is in reverse order. It is necessary to control that the crankshaft does not move. We put the belt on the crankshaft pulley.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109, 2108

9. The next step is to put it on the camshaft pulley, then on the tension roller.

We put the belt on the RV pulley

We put the belt on the tension roller

10. Don’t forget to reinstall the crankshaft pulley. The recommended tightening torque is 99-110 N*m (9.9-11.0 kgf*m).

Tighten the pulley on the crankshaft

11. All that remains is to tighten the belt, for which you need to push the roller and set the tension. It should be such that the belt rotates 90 degrees, as shown in the figure.

Tension the timing belt VAZ 2109, 2108

Checking the timing belt tension

Well, a short video:

Folk tricks

Let's look at a few folk car tricks that have helped more than one driver.

1. Each threaded connection, by the way, not only on the part of the car, can be unscrewed by first lubricating it with a special oil, for example: HP, sunflower oil, vinegar, brake fluid.
2. In rare cases, lightly tapping the edges of the bolt and nut with a hammer or wrench helps.
3. Removing a bolt or nut does not mean removing the pulley. How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without a special key? The pulley sits very firmly on the shaft; it can be removed using a pry bar or a screwdriver and carefully pry it off in several places.

Why do you need to twist the crankshaft pulley?

Removing the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ 2109 may be necessary in many cases. For example, you need to unscrew it to replace the crankshaft seals.

Gasket VAZ 2109

At a service station, a master will cope with this work within 10-15 minutes, but he will have to pay him a substantial amount. Therefore, there is a reason to learn how to do this work yourself.

Tools

To replace, we don’t need any special tools, just a standard set of wrenches and screwdrivers. You will also need a head with an extension. Liquid WD-40.

Stages of work

In order to cope with this work quickly and correctly, it is necessary to master and apply special techniques. In various engine models, a nut or bolt is used to secure the pulley.

In our case, the engine has an injector, therefore the removal procedure will differ from the removal process from a unit with a carburetor.

Since no one removes the crankshaft pulley on the VAZ 2109 injector unless necessary, we will consider this process when replacing the gasket. We will also tell you how to replace the part itself.

1. Remove the timing belt.
2. Using two screwdrivers we pry off the part we need.

We remove it with two screwdrivers. We remove it.

This is what the part we are removing looks like. Having pryed it up, we remove the crankshaft key. Be careful not to lose it.

The key that is removed. Use the same screwdriver to pry up the oil seal.

Replacement process

• Let's take it out.
• Be sure to lubricate the new one with oil.
• Using the head, press the gasket into place.


Press-fitting using a head

• We put the key and the removed parts in their original place.
• Lastly, install the timing belt.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated. If you still have questions and have not yet understood how to unscrew the required part, watch the video. It describes in detail the process described in this article, and it will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced drivers.

Pulley removal

Unscrewing a fastening bolt or nut is only half the battle. Next you need to pull the pulley out of the shaft. The pulley cannot be removed easily by hand unless its seat is broken. In addition, if the pulley fits tightly onto the shaft, it is also secured against turning by a key.

There are special pullers for removing the pulley from the shaft. There are mechanical and hydraulic pullers.

The design of a mechanical puller is simple. Usually it has three legs, with which you need to hook the pulley itself, and rest the central rod against the shaft. After which, you need to rotate the rod, the legs will straighten and pull the pulley towards you. There are even simpler pullers that you can make yourself. If there is no removable device for the pulley, then you can use pry bars. If one person is filming, then take turns, moving it a little on each side so that there is no distortion. If there are two, then at the same time, from different sides, the pulley is pressed out from the crankshaft with a sharp movement.

It also happens that when using a puller, the walls of the pulley grooves cannot withstand and break off. Therefore, when using pry bars, they must be engaged as close to the shaft as possible.

Dismantling process

If you know some technical details, then replacing a pulley takes no more than 20 - 30 minutes.
First of all, you should find out what type of fastening is used to fix the part. Depending on the type of engine, the pulley may be attached to the crankshaft using a bolt or nut. Removal of the crankshaft pulley must take into account the type of fastening, because The most difficult part of the work is precisely dismantling the fastening element. Removing the right mudguard
Removing the nut. The nut on the crankshaft pulley is found on classic models of cars from the domestic automotive industry. To remove it, it is recommended to install the vehicle above the inspection hole, secure it with wheel chocks, first put the car in 4th gear, thereby securing the crankshaft, and turn on the handbrake. During the work you will need:

• socket/socket wrench having a throat size from 36 to 38 mm;
• a piece of pipe that will act as a lever extension.

While in the inspection hole, you can begin to unscrew the nut with a socket/socket wrench, previously connected to the lever extension. It is necessary to take into account the high probability that during the operation of the vehicle the nut may become strongly stuck to its seat, as a result of which it will not be possible to unscrew it using the method described above. In this case, you will need to take the following actions:

1. Set the gearbox to neutral position.
2. Remove the spark plugs and the generator belt.
3. Fix the key with the lever so that the end of the extension can be securely rested against the floor of the inspection hole as the crankshaft rotates.
4. Apply a short-term pulse by quickly turning the ignition key.

Often the nut begins to give in after 2–3 such manipulations.
Hold the flywheel from turning and unscrew the pulley mount.
Removing the bolt. The crankshaft bolt is found on front wheel drive vehicles. At the same time, its removal is a rather complicated procedure, because you can only get to the bolt by performing the following work in the sequence below:

1. Using a jack, raise the front right part of the car body to the required height.
2. Remove the front right wheel.
3. Place the body on special supports that have a large contact patch with the surface of the bottom of the car.
4. Remove the engine guard, generator set belt and air filter.
5. To prevent rotation of the crankshaft, use a pry bar or any other suitable object to securely lock the flywheel.
6. Unscrew the bolt with a wrench of a suitable size.

VAZ 2110 crankshaft pulley and toothed pulley

When carrying out any repair work in the engine compartment, extreme care should be taken. Rash actions can lead to partial damage or complete failure of some parts of the engine compartment, as well as damage to the paint layer applied to the car body.

Puller
Having removed the fastening element, you can begin to remove the pulley itself.
It is most effective to use specialized tools for these purposes, the so-called “pullers”. Using the grips that are present on these devices, the tool is securely attached to the edges of the pulley, after which the part is quite simply removed from its seat. The crankshaft pulley has been removed.
After studying the steps described in the article, even an inexperienced driver should understand how to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without the involvement of third-party specialists.

Recommendations

Comments 75

Hello everyone, at idle the pulley is chattering, but at speed it evens out, what could be the problem?

I had this. As it turned out, the corrugation of the exhaust pipe of the muffler had burnt out, gases were escaping, and this caused the pulley to wobble. Even experienced craftsmen could not find the connection, but after replacing the corrugations, the vibrations went away. Check the exhaust system for leaks. Moreover, there does not have to be a hole in the muffler; I discovered gas breakthrough through the corrugation only at high speeds.

The pulley also dangles and aligns at speed at idle, or rather dangles, checked the tightening of the bolt in the service, it is tightened correctly, the question is what. What are the consequences of a loose pulley? I read on the Internet what leads to crankshaft wear? Is it so? And is it possible to drive like this or change the pulley itself since it’s crooked?

It is undesirable to drive like this, as it creates additional variable loads on the crankshaft. There can be many reasons. Maybe the pulley is crooked, maybe the engine is worn out, maybe the engine is just unstable at idle. I actually had a problem with a burnt out muffler. Start with an inspection of the exhaust system and power and ignition systems. If they are in order, then try to change the pulley or deal with the engine.

I read your comment and don’t understand at all how a leaky muffler exhaust can affect the looseness of this pulley? There is no vibration on the engine, by the way, at idle the only problem is that it doesn’t start hot with the key, but it starts with autostart, there was unstable operation, the air leak was removed from the damper manifold, the spark plugs were changed, the armored wires of the ignition coils were all. Now this is the problem.

At that time I didn’t even understand what the connection was with the muffler. But the fact is a fact, after replacing the burnt-out corrugation, the beating of the pulley stopped. I can’t explain the physics of the process, but that was exactly the point.

Great! And we, truck drivers, just set it to speed, and the handbrake also helps.

You can’t do this on a car with an automatic transmission, even if it’s a Suzuki.))

If you look at it, on cars with automatic transmission you cannot turn the wheels with the engine not running and the transmission engaged. Why can’t you turn the engine by the crankshaft pulley with the transmission connected? Although the proposed method is sensible, it’s bad that Vitarika doesn’t make holes in the flywheel.

On cars with automatic transmission there is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission; torque is transmitted through the torque converter only when the engine is running. Therefore, with the help of an automatic transmission, the crankshaft cannot be locked, as with a manual transmission.

Types and features of pulleys

Pulleys differ in the shape of the section and the number of “streams” on it. Let's look at the main pulley models.

• Pulley for V-belt. The working surface of such a pulley has the standard shape of a deep groove with flat surfaces, which follows the shape of the belt. Such a pulley can have two or more working streams, that is, several pulleys can be combined into one;
• Pulley for poly V-belt. On one flat surface of such a pulley there are several small streams - ribs in a row. This section is repeated on the belt. The efficiency of such gears is higher, since the contact plane of the working surfaces is larger;
• Pulley for toothed belt. This pulley has a transverse tooth similar to the teeth of a gear. The belt also has the same cross-section. During operation, the belt teeth engage with the pulley, the transmission operates;
• Crankshaft pulley with damper. The torque, say when starting an engine or braking an engine, can increase or decrease sharply. To reduce impulse loads on the crankshaft pulley, pulleys with a damper are used. The operating principle is as follows: a damping insert is provided between the base and the working part of the pulley, the rigidity of which allows the belt drive to operate and compensates for sharp impulses of the crankshaft.

Reanimation of machine drying

If you have a drying-washing machine, or you want to buy one, or you just heard about such a miracle of technology, then the post should be useful to you.

Historical reference:

There is such a miracle of modern technology - a drying machine. This is when you throw a pile of wet socks into it after washing, and take out a pile of dry and soft ones. There is a 2-in-1 machine option: washing and drying. This is when you throw in a pile of smelly dirty socks and get out a pile of dry and clean ones. [joke about missing socks] It would seem that throwing things from one machine to another is just an unnecessary task and is better than a 2-in-1 machine, they also take up less space. But purely drying ones have a lot of programs for different types of fabric, humidity sensors are more accurate and all that. The question is controversial, there is no answer.

The story itself:

As the owner of an LG 2-in-1, I couldn’t be happier that I didn’t have to look for where to hang a duvet cover and a sheet at the same time. But some time ago the machine began to not dry enough, they were dreaming about dull sensors, the warranty was already out, well, it’s bad to dry - nothing, let’s run the drying a second time, maybe it will help (it didn’t always help, by the way)

And then I came across this video: (the description is below it, you don’t have to watch it, but let it be here)

Briefly, what happens: the machine becomes clogged with microparticles of fabric in a certain place and does not allow hot air to pass through for drying, as a result of which the laundry remains wet, although it has been dried for a long time. This can be treated by removing the covers, a screwdriver, a couple of neat paws and patience.

We pulled out this slide from ours, and something else flowed down the drain during flushing:

These are all scraps from fabric fibers (not threads, but tiny specks of dust), when dry they are like felt boots, when wet they fall apart very easily. And, thank Cthulhu, it doesn’t smell of anything, because it constantly undergoes heat treatment.

And, hurray, after the first launch everything worked and the clothes were dry!

Here is another detailed video about disassembling LG*, it has text in English, but with a close-up of all the screws: *Googled for myself, so I’m too lazy to look for other brands, I recommend using English and other languages ​​to search, because the videos are not official and they are called anyhow

By the way, the bottom nasty bolt can be unscrewed through the hole on the left (with a white plastic cap) if you move the entire drum towards it, but the option with a drill is also not bad.

The moral of this story is that equipment needs to be maintained, then it will work properly. And it’s not always obvious what exactly needs to be done with it; the machine also has a filter on the bottom, like any regular one (and there’s also a lot of “dust” that collects there, but it’s easier to clean).

Dryers have a separate, large, easily removable filter, which manufacturers recommend cleaning almost every time you use it.

An additional thought: if all this accumulates in the machine, then without it all this dust would fly around the apartment, not fatally, but in fact noticeable - you spread the sheet, and it doesn’t create a nasty haze in the air.

The answer to the popular question “but the linen will all be wrinkled. “- if you take it out immediately, it won’t work, the effect is like a steam generator or even an iron. If you let it cool in the car, it’s crumpled, Christmas tree physics.

Reasons for dismantling the crankshaft

Dismantling the crankshaft on a VAZ-2114 may be required in the following cases:

• The reason that comes first is most often the replacement of the timing belt and other work that is somehow related to the gas distribution mechanism. Work should be carried out in accordance with the regulations, or if the mechanism fails.
• Another reason for dismantling is the failure of the crankshaft oil seals. They are changed when oil leaks occur in the places where they are installed.

Pulley fastening

On all VAZ-2114 vehicles without exception, the crankshaft pulley is fixed using a massive bolt, which can cause problems when removed.

A curved spanner wrench is good for fixing.

• First of all, this is due to its location, since it is difficult to securely and securely fasten the key or socket head.
• Secondly, even if you managed to position the key correctly, you will have to make every effort to dismantle it . This is due to the fact that at the factory it is tightened as tightly as possible in order to avoid the facts of self-unwinding. Also, the right-hand thread may not be the best for unscrewing it, which during operation only screws the pulley in tighter and causes the part to stick.

When performing work to remove it, it is best to keep WD-40 on hand.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley yourself

One day, every car owner is faced with a problem that cannot be solved without prior preparation. One of them is removing the crankshaft pulley.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley

As a rule, difficulties are associated with dismantling and installing new cuffs, which become deformed and cease to perform their functions. As a result, an oil leak appears that has to be repaired. For an experienced car owner, removing the crankshaft pulley is not a problem. Another thing is for beginners who are just learning the basics of car repair.

Step-by-step procedure for removing the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ-2114

Before you begin dismantling the crankshaft pulley, you need to unscrew some components and parts on the VAZ-2114.

1. First of all, we park the car and ensure it is stationary.
2. Next, loosen the generator belt tension bolt and completely remove the locking bolt.

   

   All bolts are indicated by red arrows.

3. Then, remove the front wheel on the right, after lifting the car.
4. We dismantle the opened mud guard of the wheel by unscrewing the bolts along the perimeter of the wing arch.
5. When access to the engine is open, we finally remove the alternator belt.
6. Next, you need to fix the flywheel so that it cannot turn; to do this, it is best to insert a screwdriver into the plug, which is located on the side of the gearbox. The screwdriver is inserted directly into the opening that will appear when the plug is opened.

   

   Insert the screwdriver into the hole indicated by the mark.

When the flywheel is secured, you can proceed to dismantling the crankshaft pulley.

1. We remove the timing belt, having previously set the marks.

   

   The marks are indicated by red arrows.

2. In order to make it easier to tear off the fixed bolt, it must be treated with the above-mentioned WD-40, and if it is not at hand, then with any liquid that, one way or another, affects corrosion, for example, brake fluid.
3. When the bolt is saturated with this mixture, you need to take a head of the appropriate diameter with an extension, and using a wrench, turn it counterclockwise so that it moves from its original location.
4. If it is not possible to unscrew the bolt the first time, it is possible to influence it by lightly tapping it with a hammer and applying a new treatment of the anti-corrosion mixture, and then again try to tear it out of place.
5. One way or another, after several manipulations the bolt will give in and come off.
6. When the bot is unscrewed, pay attention to the presence of a key on the shaft. It can be removed easily, the main thing is not to lose it afterwards.

   

   This work should be carried out very carefully.

7. If nothing else interferes, you can proceed directly to removing the shaft. To do this, you can use a special puller, or, if you don’t have one, use pry bars or screwdrivers.
8. Next, we move on to dismantling. When working with a puller, as a rule, no questions should arise, but when working with hand tools, you must do the following.
9. Taking two screwdrivers or “installers” we insert them between the pulley and the crankshaft on both sides.

   

   It is more convenient to pry off the crankshaft using a pry bar.

10. Next, with successive movements we move the part from its place of fixation, gradually moving to the beginning of the shaft.
11. Before proceeding with removal, it is best to tap the pulley itself with a wooden or rubberized hammer. This way you can avoid distortions during removal and additional exposure in the presence of corrosion and sticking.

Replacing the camshaft oil seal Kalina 8 valves

The first thing we do is remove the protective cover. It is secured with 3 bolts.

We gained access to the timing belt and pulley. Before removing the belt, you need to set the 1st cylinder to top dead center (TDC). Rotate the camshaft gear clockwise and install it according to the mark. We also look at the mark on the crankshaft flywheel (through the viewing window on the side of the box).

Only after this can the belt together with the gear be removed. How to lock the gear? To the left of the camshaft there is a stud with a “10” nut. We put a head with a key on it and the stopper is ready.

Loosen the tension roller to loosen and remove the belt.

When removing the camshaft gear, make sure that the key is on the bottom. Try not to drop it.

As you can see in the picture, the oil seal itself and everything around it is splashed with oil. A sure sign to replace it.

How to remove the camshaft oil seal? There are several ways to solve this problem.

At first I wanted to use the first method, but the washer reservoir prevented me from swinging the hammer. As a result, it was possible to get the oil seal using the 3rd method. It comes out quite easily, the main thing is to get a good hold.

We wipe the seat from dirt and oil. The new camshaft oil seal must be coated with sealant (outer part only) and the inner part with engine oil.

How to install a new camshaft oil seal? To ensure that it sits evenly in its place, it is best to use an attachment of the same diameter. I found an old piece of pipe that fit perfectly. Carefully pull the oil seal onto the shaft, take the adapter and press it evenly into the seat. Wipe off excess sealant with a rag.

That's all, the camshaft oil seal was successfully replaced on our own. For me, the most difficult thing was to get the old one, and all other stages of the work did not cause any particular difficulties. And one more thing, tension the timing belt so that it bends no more than 90 degrees.

Preparatory operations

Changing the pump and roller is a prerequisite so that after a thousand kilometers you don’t have to disassemble everything again. But it’s up to you to decide for the pulley, the price is 150 rubles per pair. There were cars where a slightly bent pulley caused the belt to slip and gradually wear out, reducing its service life. On this car the belt was worn down in half.

Replacement interval

We recommend that you periodically check the condition of the belt to avoid annoying consequences and not have to look for someone to take it to a repair shop. Replace every 40,000 kilometers.

And here is the patient himself.

Everything we need.

We unscrew the three ten bolts securing the protective timing cover and remove it.

Next, loosen the nut thirteen that secure the generator and unscrew the tension bolt ten.