Domestic cars are always in constant demand in Russia. On the one hand, these are affordable means of transportation, on the other hand, their ease of maintenance allows you to carry out repairs on your own. One of the most serious breakdowns of the Lada Kalina can be considered pump defects. Indeed, if the pump is out of order, you cannot operate the car - there is a high probability of the motor jamming. Therefore, Kalina owners should pay special attention to the performance of the pump and the engine cooling system as a whole.
Why do you need a pump in a car?
The pump (or water pump) on the Lada Kalina is a device that circulates coolant. The pump starts working together with the power unit, that is, after the moment of ignition, the pump also starts working.
The circulation of antifreeze/antifreeze in the system is ensured by the rotation of the pump shaft on which the impeller is located . The impeller blades create the necessary fluid pressure, due to which the motor is cooled uninterruptedly. However, if there are any defects in the pump, antifreeze stops being supplied to the cylinder blocks, so the engine can “boil” and fail. Therefore, for high-quality and timely cooling of the engine, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the pump.
Original pump, which is installed on the Lada Kalina
Fluid leaking from the drain hole or from under the seating surface
There may be various symptoms of pump failure for VAZ-2109, 2107, 2114 and other car models. So if the coolant was of poor quality, there may be a leak in the drain hole area. In this case, leakage occurs, the formation of drops after the car is broken in. This can be determined by looking at the surface of the drain hole. Please note that a small leak in a new pump is normal. This happens during the first 10 minutes of engine operation. This is because the mechanical seal moves to the correct position.
If a new pump has a break-in period. If the pump is not operating properly but fluid continues to flow from the drain port, the pump is damaged. It is necessary to thoroughly flush the cooling system and install a new pump. Then you need to fill in the required amount of new antifreeze of acceptable quality.
If there is leakage from under the seating surface, this also indicates a malfunction. In this case, a sign of failure of the VAZ-2107, 2110, 2109 or other models is humidity, the appearance of drops, drops on the body or around a certain area. The cause of such a breakdown is incorrect installation of the pump or incorrect use of sealants and gaskets.
If the pump is new, remove it and check that it is installed correctly. It is especially important to pay attention to the tightening torques. If the pump is already old, it needs to be replaced.
How to determine if the pump is faulty on Kalina
The first sign that the water pump on a car has started to work incorrectly can be considered extraneous noise in the engine compartment while driving.
Lada Kalina cars are equipped with water pumps with a strictly fixed service life - 60 thousand kilometers or 48 months of operation (whichever comes first). Therefore, when this period approaches, it is recommended to change the pump, even if there are no signs of malfunctions yet.
However, in some cases, the pump may fail earlier than stated. You can check the functionality of the water pump in the simplest way:
- Warm up the engine to the optimal temperature. After warming up, use a gloved hand to pinch the upper pipe that comes from the radiator.
- If the pump is working properly, you will immediately feel the fluid pressure in the nozzle. Accordingly, the pump works as coolant circulates through the system.
- If pressure is felt, but weak, or not at all, it will be necessary to proceed to a detailed inspection of the pump.
- You will have to remove the timing case and visually assess the external condition of the pump.
- If there is a leak of antifreeze at the landing site, it means that the oil seal (seal) has failed.
- If a roar is heard while driving, we can conclude that the pump shaft bearing has worn out. You can pump the drive part of the pump gear by hand. If there is play, the pump will not work correctly.
Loss of pump tightness leads to disruption of fluid circulation in the system
Thus, it is possible to identify pump malfunctions without removing it from the car. The procedure is quite simple and accessible even to a novice driver.
Pump Lubrication Procedure
When drivers talk about lubricating the pump, they mean lubricating the water pump bearings. There are two bearings installed on the shaft, which require a small amount of lubricant to operate correctly. Experienced drivers lubricate the pump without removing it from the car:
- Remove the gas distribution casing.
- Clean the pump mounting area and the pump housing itself from deposits, dust and dirt.
- Apply Litol-24 or VNIINP-207 with your finger to the joints of the housing.
A better lubrication procedure will be carried out during pump repairs, when faulty parts are replaced. However, this procedure can also ensure a normal amount of lubricant in the bearings:
In principle, it is possible, but it is not convenient to remove the oil seal. Remove the oil seal and lubricate the cage with warm lithol, it covers the balls there but there are slots in it, so it will still get on the balls, although there may be lubricant there
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Shaft defects
Make sure the pump bolts are tightened correctly. They definitely need to fix this element of the system. However, they should not be over-tightened. Otherwise, you can damage the threads and jam the sealant.
When draining antifreeze from the system after finishing work, remove any air pockets. The liquid must be added to the level. After replacing the pump, the engine should be running and the system should be warm. Then it is checked for leaks.
If the car has a 16-valve system, replacing the pump will be a little more difficult. However, doing this procedure yourself is not difficult.
Replacing the pump on a Lada Kalina (8 valves)
On an 8-valve Kalina, you can change the water pump yourself. However, if the car owner does not have minimal experience in car maintenance, many questions may arise. For example, which pump to buy, how to choose the right tool, and is it worth draining the antifreeze from the system completely?
Which pump to choose
When the time comes to change the water pump, car owners begin to look at car dealerships for a worthy replacement. But which pump to choose so that it lasts as long as possible and does not cause problems for the owner?
It is important to choose original factory products. This is immediately evident from the packaging - an uncreased box, a warranty card, the date of manufacture and service life are indicated. Original pumps are necessarily packaged in protective film and have holographic stickers.
In contrast, it will not last long - after 10 thousand kilometers the pump will need to be changed again.
At AVTOVAZ, designers install a TZA water pump on the Kalina. It has a long service life; drivers often change the pump only after 100 thousand kilometers. As an alternative, you can install more expensive German-made Bosch pumps - they are also famous for their quality and durability.
Where is the water pump located on Kalina?
Due to the fact that the pump is driven by the timing belt, it is part of the gas distribution mechanism. That is, you need to look for the water pump on the Lada Kalina from the side of the engine itself. Visually, before removing the belt, you can only see the pump pulley, which is involved in the gas distribution system.
The pump on the VAZ is located in the timing device
Preparing tools
It is recommended to prepare a standard set of tools for removing bolts and unscrewing nuts. You will also need a 6-point hex key. To drain the antifreeze without contamination and inconvenience, it is better to immediately find a container for draining and a rag to blot up any drops that have fallen on the engine elements. To ensure reliable installation of the pump, you can use a sealant with good thermal conductivity properties.
How much coolant to drain/fill when replacing the pump
In any case, before dismantling the old pump, you will need to drain the antifreeze from the system. This is necessary in order to reduce the pressure in the hoses and not be injured during sudden releases of liquid.
If the water pump has not been changed for a long time, then it is advisable to immediately drain the entire volume of antifreeze from the system and replace it with a new one. If the car owner has recently filled in new coolant, then there is no point in completely draining it: just disconnect the hoses from the expansion tank and wait until the antifreeze comes out.
To make it easier to fill a large volume of coolant, drivers usually use funnels
Operating procedure
First of all, you will need to install the machine on a flat surface. You can drive the Kalina into the inspection hole, you can simply lift the front right part on a jack. It is recommended to make sure that the car is securely secured; it is better to place additional supports under the body beam.
When dismantling the pump, you will need to remove the timing belts.
The work of replacing the pump on the Lada Kalina is carried out according to the following instructions:
- Remove the engine splash guard.
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Unscrew the cap from the expansion tank and immediately remove the plug located on the cylinder block. Wait until the coolant drains out.
- If all the antifreeze is drained, then unscrew the cap from the radiator and place a container under the drainage area.
- After the antifreeze has been drained, screw all the plugs back on.
- Remove the protective cover from the timing belt.
- Loosen the belt by slightly tightening the timing pulley.
- Remove the drive belt.
- Remove the four bolts that secure the pump pulley to the cylinder block.
- After removing the pulley, unscrew the last screws securing the pump.
- Pull the water pump out of its socket along with the gasket.
- Clean the planting site from adhering dirt and antifreeze drips.
- Apply heat-resistant sealant to the edges of the hole and install a new gasket on it.
- Place a new pump on the gasket and then proceed in the reverse order of removal.
Video: how to replace the pump yourself
When working with timing rollers and pulleys, it is recommended to immediately fix the working position, since the installation process can be very drawn out due to the length of time it takes to set all the marks.
How to connect an additional pump on the Lada Kalina
Most modern cars have two water pumps installed at once. This ensures the highest quality engine cooling in any operating conditions. You can also install a second (additional) pump on the Lada Kalina, and this work takes a little time and effort. The most difficult thing is to get to the place where the pump is fixed, since you will have to disassemble many engine compartment parts.
An additional pump is needed not only for high-quality engine cooling. Mostly, Russian car owners install a second pump to improve the operation of the heater in the cabin during the winter - the car warms up faster.
In order to install the second pump on the Kalina, you will need:
- new pump;
- hoses of different lengths;
- fasteners (depending on where exactly it will be easier and more convenient to screw the pump);
- sealant.
The essence of the work is to organize a small circle of coolant circulation throughout the system.
Doing the work yourself
The first step is to assemble the assembly itself from the materials that are at hand. The pump is connected to two hoses (the short one will provide fluid removal, and the long one will provide supply). The hoses are attached to the two ends of the pump with clamps. Then follow the following procedure:
- The coolant will need to be drained. You can simply empty the expansion tank without draining the entire volume of antifreeze.
- Near the bottom of the car, find two hoses (one leads the antifreeze to the stove, and the other takes it away from it). Disconnect the outlet hose and instead attach the assembled structure with an additional pump.
- After this, attach the pump to the gearbox housing. Depending on the availability of fasteners, you can place the device on brackets or secure the pump with metal clamps.
In this case, the hoses are connected with clamps, and the pump itself is mounted on a metal bracket
At the end of the work, you will need to plug all hoses and plugs and fill in new antifreeze.
Video: second pump - preparation and installation
Thus, on Lada Kalina cars, the owner can independently change the water pump without resorting to the help of service station specialists. This will save money and also allow you to independently control the operation of the pump, taking into account the knowledge about the state of the machine system that was obtained during operation.
- Author: ratico19
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Checking the engine cooling system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099
We will check the engine cooling system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 and their modifications independently, without the help of specialists and technicians. The reason for checking may be a constant decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank, or overheating or not warming up the engine, etc.
Checking the engine cooling system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099
Checking the coolant level in the expansion tank
It should be 25-30 mm above the MIN mark printed on its side. The engine must be cold when checking. If the level is lower than required, add a little liquid similar to that poured into the cooling system (antifreeze, antifreeze).
MIN and MAX marks on the expansion tank of the cooling system
If the level in the expansion tank constantly drops, we establish the cause of the malfunction. In most cases, the location of the leak can be determined by visual inspection (see paragraphs below). For example, a loose clamp on a hose.
Checking the cooling system for coolant leaks
Checking for coolant leaks should be carried out both on a cold engine and after starting, during warm-up, since the leak may be periodic and temperature-dependent.
Checking the system drain holes in the radiator and cylinder block
We inspect them for coolant leaks. If necessary, pull it out of the plug (on the radiator by hand, on the block with the key set to “13”).
We check the tightness of the coolant temperature sensor and the fan switch sensor
We inspect their installation locations (under the distributor and in the left radiator tank), tighten them if necessary.
Checking the hoses and tubes of the engine cooling system
It is necessary to inspect the places where they fit on the pipes and fittings of the system elements, and the tightness of the clamps. In addition, the integrity of the hoses is checked by inspection and feeling by hand.
Loose clamps can be tightened with a screwdriver or a wrench (but without much zeal, since you can cut through the hose with the clamp). It is advisable to replace all unreliable clamps with proven, good quality ones.
Checking the radiator of the engine cooling system
We carry out a visual inspection of its tanks (they are installed on rubber gaskets, which over time begin to leak coolant) and the pipes on which the hoses are attached. In addition, we pay attention to contamination of the radiator. Heavily contaminated ones will have to be washed, as the engine may overheat.
Checking the expansion tank
There should be no cracks in it, the hoses going to it must be securely fastened and sealed.
Checking the pump (coolant pump)
A coolant pump malfunction is almost invisible in its early stages. Signs of this may include dampness of the pump body and the front part of the pan. The gasket under the pump body or the oil seal on the axle may not be airtight (if the oil seal fails, coolant begins to ooze through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pump). You can also hear increased noise from the front of the engine when it is running. You can swing the pump axle by hand by its pulley (check the bearing). Strong play indicates wear of its parts.
Checking the heater radiator (“stove”)
Most often, signs of a leaky heater radiator or its tap are the appearance of dampness in the front passenger's feet and the sweetish smell of antifreeze in the cabin.
Checking the coolant supply pipe to the pump
A metal pipe is installed behind the engine and attached to the block. We inspect it for loss of tightness.
In addition to the above, coolant can escape through a “punched” head gasket or a crack in it or in the block. It is impossible to visually detect such a leak. There are only indirect signs here. For example, constant bubbling of coolant in the tank, wet spark plugs, white deposits on the oil filler cap and dipstick, antifreeze in the engine oil.
Checking the thermostat
We start the engine and watch the thermostat warm up. If it is working properly, then its upper part will warm up first (the small circle of the cooling system is working), then the lower part of the thermostat will warm up sharply (the large circle is working and liquid flows through the radiator). All this can be understood by touching the thermostat with your hand.
The upper part of the thermostat begins to heat up immediately after starting the engine, the lower part only after its thermal valve begins to open.
