The VAZ 2107 engine gets hot, the carburetor causes and solutions

The VAZ 2107 engine gets hot, the carburetor causes and solutions

Modern car engines are able to automatically maintain temperature. But sometimes the instrument needle confidently climbs into the red zone and the engine “boils”, that is, it overheats. Why is this happening?

VAZ-2107 engine is overheated

The first reason, no matter how trivial, is the usual lack of coolant, which gradually evaporates. The problem can be solved simply, you need to refuel the cooling system. A lack of coolant can also occur due to its leakage in the connections or due to cracking of the hoses. As a rule, leaks can be detected by visually inspecting the engine. Broken hoses must be replaced, and loose connections must be tightened. In classic VAZ models, for example VAZ-2107, the radiator is connected to the expansion tank via a flexible tube. There have been cases when this tube gets clogged, as a result there is liquid in the tank, but not enough in the radiator. Therefore, do not be lazy to open the radiator cap once again and check for the presence of coolant.

The second reason for engine overheating may be a malfunctioning thermostat. If the thermostat breaks down, antifreeze does not enter the radiator, which causes overheating. The malfunction is easily determined. If the thermometer shows a coolant temperature of 90 degrees or higher, but the radiator remains cold, it means that the thermostat is faulty. The problem is resolved by replacing it. More details about the thermostat can be found here.

A third reason for overheating may be stagnation of fluid in the cooling system. This could be a faulty pump or a clogged system. A faulty pump should be replaced, and blockages should be removed by flushing the system with a special flushing fluid.

Another reason may be contamination of the radiator. Along with the incoming air flow, many foreign objects enter its cells: dust, insects, grass. This leads to the “greenhouse effect”. A layer of dirt covering the radiator disrupts the heat transfer process. Clean it periodically with a stiff brush and blow with compressed air.

The radiator is clogged with dirt

It is also worth paying attention to the temperature sensor. The signal from it goes to the car’s on-board computer or directly to the indicator. If the sensor is faulty, an incorrect signal from it can seriously interfere with the normal operation of the cooling system.

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How to independently check and replace the DTOZH on a VAZ 2107

The internal combustion engine requires constant cooling, regardless of the season. Impaired coolant circulation threatens to overheat the power unit, which can lead to interruptions in its operation and even damage it. To control the coolant temperature, a special sensor is used - DTOZH. Sometimes it breaks, so you need to be able to diagnose it and replace it if it fails.

Purpose and design of the device

The sensor is designed to measure coolant temperature and display readings on the instrument panel, on which the indicator is located at the bottom left.

If the value is close to 95 degrees, this indicates that the cooling system is not coping with its functions and the engine may overheat.

Types of devices

Different VAZ 2107 models are equipped with either electromechanical or electronic sensors. The first ones were installed on the first models, then they were replaced by more modern ones - electronic ones.

The electromechanical device is a steel case. Its walls are made thick, so the sensor heats up evenly. Inside there is a chamber with a mixture of ceresite and copper powder, which sensitively reacts to temperature fluctuations. The chamber is closed by a sensitive bimetallic plate, which is connected to a pusher. When the body of the device is heated by coolant, the ceresite inside expands and puts pressure on the plate, which in turn moves the pusher to the upper position. The circuit is closed and the signal is transmitted to the instrument panel.

The latest VAZ 2107 models are equipped with electronic devices. Their main element is a thermal resistor with high sensitivity. The resistance in it changes in inverse proportion to changes in temperature. Through a special circuit, the signal is sent to the instrument panel.

The sensor is located on the cooling radiator of the VAZ 2107, which allows it to quickly respond to fluctuations in coolant temperature. In the first "sevens" it not only controls the temperature of the liquid, but also serves as a plug for the neck through which the coolant is drained.

In new modifications, the drain hole has its own plug. A special seat is provided for the sensor.

Self-check and DTOZh malfunctions

If your instrument panel displays incorrect temperature readings, there may be two reasons for this:

• The fuse responsible for the temperature sensor has blown, but the device is working properly. To make sure of this you need to look into the mounting block under the steering column. A blown fuse can be identified by its appearance: black and melted.

• The DTOZH is out of order. It can burn out if there is a sudden surge in voltage in the car's electrical network. This occurs due to damage to the wire insulation, which wears out greatly during operation, which leads to a short circuit.

Depending on the cause of the problem, either the fuse or the temperature sensor is changed.

To check the VAZ 2107 DTOZH you will need a multimeter, a boiler, a heat-resistant container with a volume of approximately 500 ml, a thermometer with a measuring limit of at least 100 degrees. Pour a glass of water into the container.

Further steps to check the sensor:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We press the latch holding the block with the wires and disconnect the cables from the DTOZH.
3. Set the multimeter to voltmeter mode. We connect the negative probe of the device to the ground of the power unit.
4. Turn on the ignition and check the voltage at terminal “A” of the connector with wires. It should be at least 12 V. If there is no voltage, this indicates a problem with the computer or electrical wiring.
5. Turn off the ignition.
6. At the next stage, unscrew the DTOZH and remove it along with the sealing rubber.
7. We connect the probes of the multimeter, set in ohmmeter mode, to the terminals of the dismantled sensor.
8. We immerse the threaded part of the device in a container of water.
9. Then turn on the boiler and heat the water.
10. When the water temperature reaches 95 degrees, the resistance reading on the tester should disappear. If they remain, the sensor has failed and requires replacement.

There is another simple way to check the sensor. It is used in operating mode. A working sensor should turn on the fan if a critical temperature is reached. If this does not happen, remove the wires from the sensor and connect them to each other. If the fan starts working, then the sensor is faulty. If it does not start to rotate, this indicates a malfunction.

Checking the temperature sensor.

What is engine overheating

The operating temperature of the engine is 80 - 95°C, that is, the entire green zone. The thermostat operates in other ranges, turning the fan on and off. But even working airflow does not guarantee against overheating. For the VAZ 2107, the thermostat begins to open at 82°C. The thermostat of the VAZ 21126 Priora engine begins to open at a temperature of 85+2°C, and opens completely at 102°C; for a gazelle with a 405 engine it is 92-102°C.

Overheating can be considered the operation of the motor at a temperature of 105 - 120 ° C for some time. To warn against this, in the car, in addition to the temperature sensor, there are also alarms. Well, if they didn’t work, then a direct indication is when the antifreeze knocks out of the expansion tank. It can be divided into short-term, medium and high heat.

Short-term overheating within a few minutes may go unnoticed by the engine or may manifest itself as a slight increase in oil consumption.

With an average time of more than 20 minutes, oil leaks and increased fuel consumption may occur. There may be a burnout of the cylinder head gasket or a coolant leak through a crack in the head. The pistons melt and the rings get stuck in them.

Blown cylinder head gasket

Strong heating can result in all of the above with loud knocking noises. The motor jams or even collapses (the engine shows the fist of friendship).

CAUSES OF LOW ENGINE TEMPERATURE

Low engine temperature may occur in the following cases:

• use of an inappropriate thermostat (opening temperature too early)
• high performance of cooling fans, or their forced operation from the moment the engine starts
• thermostat malfunction
• non-compliance with the proportion of mixing antifreeze with water.

If you purchase antifreeze concentrate, it must be diluted with distilled water. If in your region the temperature has dropped to a maximum of -30°, then purchase antifreeze marked “-80” and dilute it 1:1 with water. In this case, the resulting liquid will heat and cool in time, and will not lose its lubricating properties, which is extremely necessary for the pump.

VAZ engine overheating. Causes and consequences

Hello dear readers!

Many car enthusiasts understand: if the engine overheats, nothing good can happen.

Let's figure out what can happen when overheating and why the car overheated, using the VAZ 2110 as an example.

In principle, I do not repair domestic cars, except when friends ask. So it was actually my friends who came to me with this problem. They say it was overheated, the coolant went into the oil, and an emulsion appeared on the oil filler cap. We unscrew the spark plugs and see the presence of coolant in cylinder 3. There is nowhere to go, you need to remove the cylinder head.

They removed and checked the cylinder head, the curve (more than 2 dozen). We send it for milling, and in the meantime we begin to find the cause of overheating. Checked the thermostat - working. We noticed that the radiator was completely clogged - we cleaned it. And they made the assumption that the overheating was due to a clogged radiator.

We take the cylinder head from the milling machine, wash it, install it, change the oil and filter and bleed the cooling system. But that was not the case. It gets hot and doesn't pump. We notice that there is no movement of coolant and we decide to remove the pump (coolant pump).

I assumed that the impeller had turned or the blades had rotted. But what was my surprise when we didn’t find the impeller at all! It was at night, fortunately VAZ was full of spare parts and there were 24-hour stores too.

As a result, the pump is replaced and the car is ready for battle.

Thank you for your attention, have a nice day!

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VAZ 21074 engine persistently heats up

(02.02.09.13) Misha Good day! I have a VAZ 21074 in operation, and its engine has been heating up very quickly lately - the temperature jumps up to 110 degrees. Please explain what is the matter and how to deal with it?

Engine VAZ 21074

There can be many reasons why the VAZ 21074 engine heats up. Let's look at each in more detail:

1. The fact is that during a warm period of time the radiator can become clogged with various debris that simply should not be in it. Many people nowadays are familiar with the problem of natural reproduction of poplar, when its fluff flies almost everywhere. Its seeds are the most common causes of battery contamination, which in turn leads to reduced heat transfer. Another option is road dust, insects and other impurities. Consequently, this may be the problem of engine overheating, but even if this is not the case, the radiator should still be cleaned from time to time for preventive purposes.
2. In addition, the radiator can become clogged not only from the outside, but also from the inside. This occurs due to the use of low quality coolants or their untimely replacement. Thus, a malignant sediment begins to settle in the cooling system, clogging the small radiator tubes. In this case, the system should be flushed, and then the problem will be neutralized.
3. Also, the VAZ 21074 engine may overheat due to the failure of the fans. The main culprit for such problems is the switch-on sensor. But again, it may not work due to contamination of the radiator. Namely, because they are located nearby, and an impressive layer of impurities can settle on the sensor, preventing the uniform heating of this device. Here, the prevention and elimination of this problem are no different in terms of the measures taken from the actions indicated in the second paragraph.
4. Overheating can also be caused by a faulty thermostat. Usually it is either repaired or completely replaced.
5. The problem may be boiling and subsequent splashing of the coolant. The culprit in this case is the cap on the expansion tank or on the radiator, which poorly maintains the pressure inside the system. Actually, the higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point of the above-mentioned substance. That is why the main function of the lid is to maintain a specific level of a specified physical quantity. And even if the liquid begins to heat up more than expected, a special valve opens in order to return the previous values.
6. Probably the rarest cause of overheating of the VAZ 21074 engine, which occurs only in extreme cases, is poor coolant circulation caused by internal aging of the relevant mechanisms. However, this problem is very serious, so its resolution is only possible with a complete replacement of the cooling system.
7. The engine also heats up due to incorrectly adjusted ignition. The solution is obvious - configure it correctly.
8. The last and no less serious than the previous ones, the reason for overheating of the VAZ car engine is the so-called “air lock”. Simply put, this is a clot of a mixture of gases that we breathe that enters the cooling system. For her, this is almost tantamount to blood clots in the human cardiovascular system.

It may appear due to local overheating of the coolant. In principle, you can simply kick her out.

Another case is poor sealing of the cooling system. So, when the engine cools down, a discharge occurs. In general, if the check valve on the expansion tank, which compensates for the lack of air, does not work well, then gas compensation occurs precisely in the depressurized area. This is how a traffic jam occurs.

Here the repair implies the following:

• the presence of the above-mentioned weaknesses is eliminated;
• It happens that exhaust gases also enter the cooling system due to holes in the gaskets of the engine cylinder block. They air it out, causing the engine to overheat. Here it will not be possible to get off with an easy repair, because the motorist will have to completely disassemble the technical part of the VAZik in order to remove its head and change the gasket located under it.

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VAZ 2105 with temperature

06/18/12 13:04 Reply to message VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

There could be a lot of things. 1) The hose has peeled off 2) The thermostat is “hotter” 3) The thermostat is sticking 4) To find out how much coolant you have, drain and refill 8 liters will fit in there if sclerosis serves me 5) Ignition timing

Well, the main thing is that it’s not boiling, there’s no need to climb

06/18/12 13:06 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with Crusader

06/18/12 14:20 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with Crusader

Corrected by user Anton_Jrevi4 (18.06.12 14:21)

06/18/12 14:48 Reply to message VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

If I fill it with seven, there’s still a liter and a half left from tens of antifreeze.

It won't all go away. Gram 200-300. “The heat is very intense” non-technical information

It's up to you to decide though. I just suggested

06/18/12 17:27 Reply to message VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

06/18/12 17:44 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with VinsenT

06/18/12 20:37 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

06/19/12 09:02 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

In response to: it hasn’t been possible to check yet, should I check it while it’s hot?

06/19/12 09:20 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with VinsenT

06/19/12 12:40 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with user temperature Anton_Jrevi4

06/19/12 14:49 Reply to message Re: VAZ 2105 with Crusader

And so: I opened the plug and started the car, started to warm it up. The tasol level did not change! After the thermostat began to open, all sorts of swirls appeared in the neck. but the coolant level did not rise. I started accelerating, the first couple of times the coolant rose a couple of mm. then one bubble appeared. I gassed 5 more times, but there was no more bubble! after which, with a trace of gas, the coolant dropped sharply by about 5 cm, I immediately topped it up, with a trace of gas again a bubble (Then again the gas hit the floor and again the coolant dropped, then I realized and began to press the gas and pour in a TOTAL of 2 bubbles .. gasket ? or air? There is no smell of exhaust, there is no emulsion. I took a video, as you can see there are no bubbles, there is only disturbance of the coolant

If the VAZ 2107 boils: what are the reasons and how to eliminate them

For what reasons does the VAZ 2107 boil, or more precisely, the liquid in the engine cooling system? We will try to figure this out by explaining everything as simply as possible. The cooling system is the most “nasty” part of the car.

It can cause a lot of trouble for a motorist. And sometimes getting rid of shortcomings turns out to be very difficult. And very often it happens that the antifreeze is thrown out of the tank, or it simply boils, while the needle inexorably strives at the speed of a marathon runner towards the red zone.

Why is this happening? On old cars, for example, very often when replacing one component it turns out that it is necessary to go through almost the entire system. And if the engine boils, then it is quite possible that significant repairs will have to be carried out. But if this happened in a traffic jam on a hot summer day, then most likely there is a malfunction in the electric fan or its activation sensor.

For example, the thermostat is broken. We started removing it and discovered that the pipes had become unusable. And along with them, the clamps. And these are just flowers, because it is unknown what is going on inside.

It is quite possible that the antifreeze is boiling because something is hindering its movement. For example, a large amount of deposits on the walls of the cylinder block. And now in more detail about what could be the reasons why antifreeze boils.

Possibility of tuning the VAZ 2107 cooling system

You can increase the efficiency of the VAZ 2107 cooling system in various ways. Someone installs a fan from a Kalina or Priora on the radiator, someone tries to better heat the interior by adding an electric pump from a Gazelle to the system, and someone installs silicone pipes, believing that with them the engine will warm up faster and cool down. However, the feasibility of such tuning is highly questionable. The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 itself is quite well thought out. If all its elements are in good working order, the engine will never overheat in the summer, and in winter the cabin will be warm even without turning on the heater fan. To do this, you only need to periodically pay attention to system maintenance, namely:

Thus, the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is quite reliable and simple. However, it also needs periodic maintenance, which even an inexperienced car enthusiast can perform.

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Pump drive problem!

The circulation of coolant in the system directly depends on the water pump. The higher its performance, the better the cooling process. To improve performance, they use “tuned” pumps with a larger number of blades on the impeller.

This is reasonable and correct, especially in cases where the engine has been modified and improved. And if the tuned engine does not boil when working with the original cooling system, then this is something out of the ordinary.

If you open the hood of a VAZ 2107, you will definitely see one feature - the liquid pump and generator are driven by one belt. Hence the conclusion - if it breaks or weakens, then the antifreeze moves through all channels at a lower speed, cooling worsens significantly.

The way out of this situation is to replace the belt or tighten it. On a VAZ 2107 car, like on most others, this is done in literally two movements. And with this we are just beginning to consider the reasons why the engine began to boil. Further more interesting.

General characteristics of the VAZ 2107 cooling system

The VAZ 2107 engine of all models has a sealed liquid cooling system with forced circulation of coolant (coolant).

Purpose of the cooling system

The cooling system is designed to maintain the optimal temperature of the power unit during its operation and timely, controlled removal of excess heat from heating components. Individual elements of the system are used to heat the interior during the cold season.

Cooling system parameters

The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 has a number of parameters that affect the operation and performance of the power unit, the main of which are:

Is the problem in the expansion tank?

There may also be a malfunction in it. Please note a few points:

1. Are there any cracks in the tank?
2. Does the cork allow air to pass freely?
3. Are the clamps tightened securely?
4. Is the fluid level within acceptable limits?

Only by answering all these questions will it be possible to talk about whether there are any defects in the expansion tank. If there are cracks in it, then antifreeze will leak through them. These are the reasons for the rise in temperature. Injector or carburetor - it doesn’t matter, the expansion tank must be in perfect condition.

The consequence is that you constantly need to top it up, as the level in the expansion tank will begin to drop. A drop in level is the first step towards overheating. Try to keep it between O and MIN.

In this case, only the antifreeze will circulate normally through the system. The reasons for boiling often lie in the little things. For example, the engine boiled after the driver failed to monitor the antifreeze level.

Air conditioner

I would also like to mention when the engine gets hot when the air conditioning is turned on. The situation with the air conditioner is ambiguous. The increase in load on the engine has already been taken into account by the factory, but if it is in poor condition and the cooling system is faulty, this is still possible.

Dirty air conditioner radiator

The second reason related to air conditioning is dirty radiators. The air conditioning radiator is installed in front of the cooling radiator and in hot weather, if heat is not removed from it well, it heats up itself, and a “dirty” main one leads to overheating of the engine.

Radiator fan

As you understand, the engine operates in a variety of modes. Sometimes he pulls the car along the highway at high speed, and sometimes through a traffic jam. And in the latter case, the speed is lower than that of pedestrians.

What's the difference? And the fact is that the radiator on a VAZ 2107 car is blown in these two modes with different amounts of air. In the first case, the flow is enough to maintain the temperature balance, but in the second it is not enough. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s an injector or a carburetor, the radiator must be blown normally.

You have to create an artificial flow using an electric fan. In earlier VAZ 2107 cars (and indeed in the “classic” series) impellers were used that were mounted on the axis of the liquid pump. With the help of these mechanisms, the radiator is subjected to airflow. An electric fan may not perform its functions for the following reasons:

1. The impeller has been destroyed.
2. The sensor responsible for turning on the fan has failed.
3. The motor winding burned out.
4. Destruction of electrical wiring (breakage, contact failure, oxidation).
5. Failure of a relay, fuse, button (if these elements are present in the design).

The last point applies mostly to VAZ 2107 cars, in which the fan switching circuit has been modified by installing a button in the passenger compartment. With its help, the driver can forcefully start the fan.

If it doesn’t start even from the button, you need to find out the reasons. To do this, connect the wires from the fan to the battery terminals. If it doesn’t work, the motor winding is damaged.

Please note: for better airflow, use a diffuser! This is a small plastic element that will force more air to flow to the radiator. And if there are no breakdowns in the fan, then be sure to install a diffuser, the radiator will thank you.

Forced fan activation

If the VAZ 2107 fan sensor is broken, it is quite possible to drive on a good road without noticing it. But as soon as you drive onto a country road or get into city traffic jams, the engine will start to overheat. Replacing the fan sensor is not very difficult, but requires draining the coolant. Even if you have a spare sensor at hand, replacing it on the road is problematic. There is an easier way out of the situation.

The following operations must be performed:

• disconnect “mass”;
• remove two wires from the sensor terminals and connect (“short-circuit”) them;
• insulate the exposed contacts of the connected wires;
• connect ground.

In this case, the fan will run continuously. To turn it off, you will have to disconnect the ground and disconnect the contacts.

If you have already experienced problems with the fan sensor on the road, you can install a forced fan circuit on the car that operates in parallel with the sensor. To do this, just connect a couple of wires to the terminals going to the sensor contacts and stretch them into the engine compartment. Install a separate button (toggle switch) on the dashboard and connect the wires to it so that you can close them if necessary.

In this case, if the sensor malfunctions, there will be no need to crawl under the hood to force the fan to start.

Actions in case of overheating in a traffic jam

If your engine gets very hot during prolonged slow driving, try not to turn off the engine, but take measures to reduce the temperature. To do this, turn on the stove to full heating and wait, let the engine idle. If the temperature doesn't start to drop, pull over to the side of the road and open the hood. There is still hope that the temperature will drop; if this does not happen, then turn off the engine.

Knocks coolant out of the expansion tank

When you turn off the engine, coolant may leak out under the radiator cap. You shouldn't remove it like that, or you'll just get scalded. Wait a minute and start the car briefly. This is necessary so that when it cools down the engine does not jam and the rings do not stick. Repeat the procedure 3-4 times.

You can turn off the engine immediately only if steam comes out from under the hood. And this may indicate a burst pipe or radiator.

It's a traffic jam!

The cooling systems used in the eighth VAZ family and higher use a slightly different design. The formation of traffic jams is almost impossible (but possible). But in a VAZ 2107, an air plug can appear at any time. And there can be a lot of reasons for this, but most often it is a violation of the tightness of the system.

Carefully inspect all pipes for cracks and damage. Using a socket on “6” or “8”, check the tightness of all clamps. After this, inspect the radiators (including the one used in the heater) to see if there is damage to the cells. If the antifreeze is thrown out of the tank, then you have the most unpleasant breakdown; we will talk about it a little later.

Bleeding the system

On VAZ 2107 cars and its analogues (models 2101-2106), you can remove the traffic jam very simply. It is enough to remove the pipe that goes to the carburetor to heat the damper. If an injector is installed, then remove the pipe going to the throttle assembly.

Then fill the radiator with antifreeze. And do not forget that the stove tap must be opened. When it is full, you need to squeeze all the pipes with your hands (or rather, the top and bottom). The antifreeze should go away.

Add the missing amount and start the engine. Warm it up and carefully monitor the level, sometimes add antifreeze. You will have to add about three liters. And watch when fluid comes out of the tube connected to the carburetor.

When this happens, you need to put it in place and tighten the clamp. Of course, if you stop there, you won’t be able to get rid of the breakdown. The antifreeze still boils, the temperature rises. And why does this happen? Do a few more procedures and everything will return to normal.

Put on a glove and continue to slowly crimp the pipes. In this case, you need to install a plug on the radiator, and there should be antifreeze in the expansion tank between the two marks. That's all, there is no air, circulation occurs normally.

One small piece of advice: when refueling the system, it is advisable to position the car so that its front is higher than its rear. This will ensure that the system is completely filled. As a result, the antifreeze does not bubble or boil, the car runs like a watch.

Replacing a spare part

The antifreeze temperature sensor on a VAZ 2107 is important for a carburetor engine, because if it malfunctions, incorrect data will be transmitted to the injector.

Before you start removing the old temperature sensor from the engine of the VAZ 2107, it must cool completely. Otherwise, liquid may cause burns when the hole is opened.

Independent replacement of the coolant meter on a VAZ is carried out in the following steps:

1. De-energizing the on-board network to prevent short circuits in case of moisture on the wires. This can happen if their insulation is poor, but in any case, disconnecting from the network is recommended.
2. Draining the antifreeze in the cylinders. To do this, you need to prepare the container in advance.
3. Shifting the protective cap and disconnecting the contact wires. To remove, you need to pull them down and slightly towards you.
4. Unscrewing the sensor using a 21-mm socket or wrench. When unscrewing, you need to be careful about the safety of the thin O-ring.

Before screwing in a new device, you should clean the connection points. Usually dirt and dust accumulate there, which also negatively affect work. In this case, you can use a rag that will not leave lint. The hole must be treated with a degreaser.

Installing a new meter following the reverse sequence of the listed points:

1. Twisting the sensor. In this case, you should not make serious efforts to eliminate the risk of thread failure.

   

2. Connecting wires.
3. Closing the protective cap.
4. Filling cylinder blocks with coolant. It is better to use new fluid, even if it has recently been replaced.
5. Network connection.
6. Start the engine.
7. Checking the DTOZH.

Do not use thread sealant. Professional motorists and car mechanics do not drain the fluid before replacing it, deftly closing the hole with their hand. The removed device can be checked for serviceability.

The thermostat is the boss

Not a very pleasant breakdown, especially if it happens on the road. And if the engine is boiling due to a faulty thermostat, then there is only one way out - to change this element of the system. True, at first you can slightly “reanimate” him; for this you need to apply several sharp blows to his body with something heavy.

But such a “rough” solution may not always help. There will be much more trouble if liquid leaks out of the tank. The thermostat allows the system to switch the circulation of liquid between two circles - large and small. These circles differ in that in the first one a radiator is connected to the cooling process. And if it does not connect, then the liquid boils.

On VAZ 2107 cars, and indeed on all cars of this manufacturer, the thermostat fails in such a way that the antifreeze continues to circulate in a small circle. And even if you turn on the radiator fan with the button, this will not save the situation.

The car still drives poorly, the antifreeze boils, and you won’t be able to immediately understand why this is happening. And the answer is very simple - to increase the life of the thermostat, do not pour running water into the system. Use any antifreeze, in particular antifreeze. The water leaves a large amount of scale, which interferes with the movement of the thermostat element.

Signs of air in the cooling system

The presence of an air lock in the engine cooling system causes serious consequences, including overheating of the engine and its failure. The presence of a plug will immediately manifest itself in the form of uneven heating of the engine. The air in the system restricts the passage of coolant in a large or small circle. The fact that the plug is present helps reduce the heat exchange between the engine and the antifreeze, so there will be an increase in temperature above the maximum level, which is unacceptable.

The plug can also prevent the passage of fluid to the heater core, so driving the car in winter will be cold. Heated antifreeze does not pass to the heater radiator through the cooling system of the VAZ 2107, so when it is turned on, a stream of cold air will blow into the cabin.

It is contraindicated to operate the machine in this condition until air has been removed from the system. To remove it, several different methods are known, which are described in detail in the material.

Reasons for the formation of air pockets

The formation of a plug in the cooling system is also called airing. This phenomenon occurs in the pipes and hoses, whereby their throughput capacity is lost, thereby causing overheating of the engine and boiling of the coolant. Before you remove the plug from the system, you will need to understand the reasons for its occurrence.