Comfort in the cabin when operating the car in winter is ensured by a stove in the cabin. Before the advent of the “tenth” family of models, AvtoVAZ equipped its cars with a simple mechanically controlled heating system. Starting with the VAZ-2110 model, designers revised the design of the stove and improved its control mechanism. Such modifications increase the convenience of adjusting the heating operation, and sometimes cause failure or improper functioning of the interior heating.
The design of the heating system of the VAZ-2110
The concept of interior heating on the VAZ-2110 remains the same - the air supplied to the cabin is heated by the cooling system. To do this, a radiator is installed in the cabin, under the front panel, which is included in the cooling system; heated antifreeze moves through it. The air passing through the radiator is supplied through the air intake. After heating, the air flow through the air ducts is supplied to the necessary areas - the windshield, legs, torso.
Forced air circulation is provided, which increases the efficiency of the distribution of warm flow throughout the cabin. For this purpose, the stove is equipped with a fan driven by an electric motor.
The air heating temperature is regulated by dampers. One of them allows the flow either through the radiator (for heating) or bypassing it. The damper divides the flow to obtain the desired temperature - one part of it goes through the radiator, and the second bypasses it, after which it is mixed, the degree of heating is regulated and supplied to the air ducts.
The second damper is designed to shut off the air supply to the cabin from the outside. Thanks to it, a closed air circulation mode is established.
Disassembly and assembly
Replacing faulty parts in a VAZ 2110 heater is not very difficult, requires a minimum of tools, but takes a lot of time. Almost all work is carried out from the engine compartment, where the heater is mounted on the engine panel.
To gain access to it you need to dismantle:
- Engine shield insulation;
- Plastic trim under the windshield (“jabot”);
- Windshield wiper mechanism;
- Left and right heater covers.
The resistor is located on the right side (if we stand in front of the bumper and look at the engine compartment), it is secured with a screw. To get to it for replacement, you will have to remove the vacuum booster.
The cabin filter is “hidden” on the left in the opening inside the car; you can simply reach it with your hands.
The “old” and “new” non-interchangeable options were used; to replace, purchase a filter similar to the one installed.
Cabin filter VAZ 2110 Carbon cabin filter VAZ 2110 Air carbon filter for VAZ 2110
To replace the heater and faucet on a VAZ 2110, you must first drain the coolant. To remove the stove, you need to disconnect the two pipes on the clamps and the steam exhaust hose. The stove itself is not attached and is held in place only by pressing the lid against the heater body. You can replace it with copper or aluminum, the former heat much better due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, the latter are more durable and cheaper.
Heater radiator VAZ 2110 copper 2-row Heater radiator VAZ 2110 DAAZ aluminum
At the tap, you need to disconnect two more hoses, which can be accessed from the interior by removing the glove box (“glove box”). The tap itself is attached to two 10mm nuts; before removal, the drive cable is disconnected. When replacing, new rubber seals must be installed.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order, the entire process can take more than four hours.
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Stove control
Previously, the dampers on VAZ were controlled mechanically - the damper was connected by a cable to a handle on the heater control unit. Additionally, the heater was equipped with a tap to shut off the supply of antifreeze to the heater radiator, which was regulated by a handle on the control unit.
Video: The stove on the VAZ 2110 does not heat up? Replacing the heater damper gearmotor
On the VAZ-2110, the shut-off valve is no longer installed, and the heater is turned off in the summer using a damper, which, when completely closed, separates the radiator from the passenger compartment. The mechanical control of the dampers was replaced with an electromechanical one - a micromotor gearbox was installed. Heating control for VAZ-2110 includes:
- controller of the automatic heater control system (AHC);
- temperature sensor;
- damper position sensor;
- micromotor gearbox
The controller is equipped with a front panel with two handles - the left one is responsible for adjusting the temperature, the right one is for operating the fan. Models of the 10th family use controllers, the difference between which comes down to the number of fan operating modes and the presence of an automatic operating mode.
Causes of poor foot airflow
Heater malfunction
Air through the cabin filter is taken from the street by the rotating blades of the electric heater motor. Through a damper system, air is distributed through air ducts and supplied into the cabin through deflectors and non-adjustable grilles.
Air, like any gaseous medium, tends to follow the path of least resistance. Therefore, it is logical that the air flows first come out of the central and side deflectors. The feet of the driver and passengers are blown last. Structurally, the air ducts to the central deflector and the upper side airflow points have a larger cross-section, and it is much easier for air to pass through them.
Initially, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the intake of air from the atmosphere. After all, if the air is supplied in insufficient volume, then it will not be enough to supply all airflow points with the intensity that was calculated at the design stage of the car.
Check the condition of the cabin filter. To do this, remove the wipers and frill. The cabin filter is located on the right side of the vehicle under the windshield. It is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with four self-tapping screws. Unscrew the screws and remove the cabin filter. We start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature and check the operation of the stove. If the situation has improved, change the cabin filter and close the issue.
The second common cause is a clogged heater core. In this case, the heating of the interior will be weak, because warm air does not come out of all the deflectors well, and not just into the legs. But the fact is that when driving for a long time, your feet begin to freeze first, so it seems that the problem is in this part of the airflow.
Video: Why the stove does not blow at the feet of VAZ 2111,2110
This malfunction is easily diagnosed. We find two pipes for supplying antifreeze to the heater radiator (rubber hoses on the left side in the direction of travel of the car). With the engine warm, carefully touch the two pipes one at a time with the heater running at full power. The difference in temperature between the pipes should be minimal. If one pipe is hot and the second is cold or barely warm, we wash or replace the heater radiator.
Checking the operation of the dampers
There are nine exit points for air flows from the heater on the VAZ-2110:
- central deflector;
- two side deflectors and two windshield air vents;
- heated feet of the driver and front passenger;
- two outputs for heating the feet of rear passengers.
In an ideally operating system, the pressure generated by the heater motor is sufficient to create an effective flow to warm the feet. However, over time, gaps form in the joints of the air ducts, and the dampers of the VAZ-2110 heater begin to fit loosely to the body. This leads to atomization of the air flow. As a result, a minimum amount of air reaches the distant exit points.
First, dismantle the panel with the central deflector. It is held in place by four plastic clips. To remove it, simply pry it off one of the sides with a suitable object, such as a flat-head screwdriver. Be careful: the clips are fragile.
Evaluate the damper's performance
In older cars with a manual damper drive, pay attention to the play in the linkage of the rods. A broken rod system will not allow the damper to fit tightly to the body in the extreme position, which will cause air to leak from the cold circuit
The problem is corrected by adjusting the damper. In a mechanical drive, it is possible to shorten the rod due to a movable lock on a gear rod or a threaded tip. During the adjustment process, check that the position of the switch on the panel corresponds to the actual position of the damper.
Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not blow into your feet is a malfunction in the operation of the automatic heater control system (AHC) unit or the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. In this case, there is usually insufficiently warm or even cold air from the stove operating in maximum heating mode. This is due to the incorrect position of the damper in which the gearmotor sets it.
Evaluate the operation of the gear motor of the VAZ-2110 stove. To do this, visually check how it closes the damper when switching modes. The easiest way to do this is to remove the panel with the central deflector. Move the temperature knob to the extreme position (for example, set the minimum temperature), then sharply switch to the opposite mode. The damper should completely block the channel visible from the driver's position. If this does not happen, the problem lies in the gear motor or the automatic control system unit. Check the serviceability of the gearmotor and unit.
Principle of operation
The operating principle of such a control system is simple - the driver uses the left handle to set the desired temperature (completely cold or in the range from 16 to 28 degrees). Based on the set mode, the controller supplies power to the micromotor gearbox and it sets the dampers to the desired position.
Two-way communication is used between these elements - a position sensor is installed on the gearbox, which “informs” the controller about the opening angle. Thanks to the installed temperature sensor (located on the ceiling), the controller constantly monitors the degree of heating of the air in the cabin, based on which it adjusts the position of the damper to maintain the temperature set by the driver.
Temperature sensor VAZ 2110
Thanks to the use of automatic control system, the driver no longer needs to adjust the operation of the stove in order to maintain a comfortable temperature; he sets the temperature with a handle, and the controller does the rest. On the early VAZ-2110, the heater fan had three operating modes, the difference between which comes down to the rotation speed. Speed adjustment is carried out by installing a rheostat block in the power supply circuit of the electric motor. Then models appeared in which the fan received a 4th operating mode - automatic. When it is turned on, the fan operates under the control of the controller - the ACS regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor to adjust the temperature in the cabin.
The use of electromechanical control on the VAZ-2110 increased the convenience of controlling interior heating, but due to the more complex design, the likelihood of stove failure increased.
About problems with the damper
As noted a little above, two types of dampers are installed at the manufacturer: old and new. In the first case, it is plastic with a foam rubber seal. It does not shine with special quality and quickly breaks down during operation. The second type is more reliable, since the damper is metal and the seal is rubber. So, on the VAZ-2110 there are two dampers: upper and lower. The first is responsible for supplying cold air to the cabin, the second is responsible for supplying warm air. If, when switching with the handle, you hear the damper moving, but the air is cold, both blowing and blowing, then it is quite possible that the drive or the damper itself has failed. In the latter case, it is easiest to change it to a new one. In some cases, it makes sense to use glue, such as dichloroethane. However, you need to understand that for this you will have to disassemble the heater, and this is a labor-intensive task.
Using the SAUO controller, move the lever to minimum. Cold air should be blowing. If you turn it to maximum and there is no flow, this indicates a malfunction of the lower damper, which is responsible for supplying warm air. But at the same time you need to monitor whether the top one closes. If there is no cold flow, then it is closed. Another probable cause is jamming. This happens due to a banal misalignment or jamming due to rust. You can try to remove the central deflector, reach to the damper with your hand and try to move it there. This element may not fully open or close. In this case, the easiest way is to replace the damper with a new, better one.
Malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 stove and their elimination
VAZ-2110 owners are faced with the problem of a non-working or malfunctioning stove. The malfunction boils down to the fact that the air does not heat up, the heater supplies hot air, or there is uneven heating - cold air goes to the windshield, but well-heated air goes to the foot area.
Why does the stove not heat well?
These symptoms occur due to a malfunction in the stove control system:
- Damage to the ACS controller.
- Malfunction of the micromotor gearbox.
- Damper deformed or jammed.
- Temperature sensor malfunction.
To identify the problem, first determine in which branch of the control system the malfunction occurred. To do this, start the engine, turn on the heater fan at maximum speed, and then turn the temperature control knob from “Min” to “Max” and listen to whether the noise changes from the fan operation. If the “controller-gearbox” branch is working properly, then the dampers move, and by changing the direction of air flow, the noise from the stove operation changes in tone.
But if the sound of operation does not change, the reason lies in the controller, gearbox or dampers.
To check the controller, replace it with a known good one and check whether the operation of the stove has changed. The next thing to check is the gear motor. The difficulty of checking is that it is located under the “jabot” on the engine side, and it is difficult to get to the gearbox. This control branch may not work due to jammed dampers.
To check the “controller-temperature sensor” branch, disconnect the wires from the sensor. Without its readings, the controller controls the damper based on the temperature set by the driver. If the problem with the operation of the stove lay in the temperature sensor, then after it is turned off, the normal functioning of the heating system will be restored, with the only difference that the automatic fan mode will stop working and the ACS will not be able to adjust the temperature of the air flow.
More often, problems arise with the controller and gearmotor. These units can be repaired, but since their price is low, it is easier to replace them with new ones.
Video: The stove on the VAZ 2110 does not heat up? Heater damper repair
Diagnosis of recirculation system malfunctions
If outside air continues to flow when the button is pressed, there is a problem with the system. You can determine the cause of the breakdown by diagnosing the cooling system, which involves performing the following actions:
- turning on the ignition, starting the power unit;
- setting the maximum fan speed mode;
- pressing the recirculation key.
This triggers the valve and closes the damper. If the car is moving at a constant speed and the damper is completely closed for several seconds, the system is working properly. If there are suspicious sounds (clicks, pops) and the damper moves jerkily, we can talk about problems.
Other reasons
The problems associated with stove control are described above. But the stove may not work or not function efficiently enough for other reasons:
- the appearance of an air lock in the heater radiator;
- radiator clogged;
- severe wear or breakdown of the fan motor;
- malfunction of the rheostat block of the control mechanism;
- damper deformation.
These malfunctions affect the performance of the stove. On the VAZ-2110 they occur less frequently than control system breakdowns, but they should also be taken into account. To identify the reason for the cessation of normal operation of the VAZ-2110 stove, determine why this could have happened. If the fan does not work, then to fix the problem, check it, the rheostat unit and the power circuit.
The stove blows cold air - the reason lies in the stove radiator (clogged, a plug has formed in it) or in the dampers (jammed in a position where the air flow bypasses the radiator).
The stove heats poorly and it is not possible to adjust the temperature - check the functionality of the controller, micro-reducer and temperature sensor.
To identify the cause and eliminate the decrease in stove productivity, move “from simple to complex.” First, check the functionality of the system elements located in the cabin (controller, temperature sensor), and then climb under the hood to diagnose the operation of the gearbox, dampers, and fan motor.
If the gear motor or heater is broken
In most cases, this element cannot be repaired; it is much easier to replace it. This is very simple to do, and now we will look at the sequence. If the VAZ-2110 stove does not heat well, the thermostat and pump have nothing to do with it, and there is no air lock, the air still blows cold or barely warm, then you will have to change the gearmotor. To do this, remove the windshield wipers and dismantle the frill (you need to unscrew three screws). Next, disconnect all the wires that go to the gearmotor and remove it. Then you simply connect the new part and, with the help of a friend, adjust the air entering the cabin.
Sometimes it makes sense to check the heater directly. It breaks quite rarely, but no one is immune from this. To verify whether it is malfunctioning or working properly, you must remove the main deflector. Then you need to straighten the fasteners. It is more convenient to move the flap from the side of the engine compartment. A large amount of scale, just like mechanical damage (crack, hole, etc.), indicates that replacement will be needed. Remember that if the VAZ-2110 stove (injector, 8 valves) does not heat well and the problem is in the radiator, then you will need to completely disassemble the stove in order to replace it. This is not so easy to do, but with due diligence and free time you can do it yourself.
