ECU weight
A reliable ECU ground is very important for the proper operation of the engine management system and the engine as a whole.
It would seem to be a primitive and reliable design that can serve well for years. But in reality this is far from the case.
It is very difficult to list all the possible problems that can arise due to poor ECU mass, since it can affect anything. But the main problems can be divided into two points:
- Incorrect collection of information from engine control system sensors. Personally, I had to deal with incorrect MAP sensor readings. It gave inflated barometric pressure readings precisely because of the poor weight of the ECU.
- Since almost all modern engine control units are able to adapt to real operating conditions, as a result of incorrect collection of information from sensors, adaptation leads to engine malfunctions. This is why for many, after resetting the adaptations, the engine begins to work much better. But then the problems return as the ECU adapts again. And again this does not happen quite adequately.
Additional ground wires
An additional ground wire from the dashboard can be routed from the cigarette lighter ground to the inner metal base of the center console of the dashboard. As a rule, the additional weight of the VAZ 2114 from the torpedo is installed if the car has a standard dashboard. The cross-section of the additional wire must be at least the same as that of the standard wire.
You can check which panel you have by looking at the mounting of the ECM controller - with a plastic adapter between the controller and the metal base, and the presence of a diagnostic connector in the standard place under the ashtray (behind the decorative plug). If both signs are present, you have a standard panel.
Additional wires are often installed on cars with high mileage. Such cars often have ground problems, and instead of searching, owners install new wires, for example, on the alternator with the battery, or on the metal part of the center console with the battery, to prevent battery charge from leaking.
Knowledge of where the ground is located on the VAZ 2114, what signs indicate poor contact with the ground and the ability to troubleshoot problems will always be useful in order to prevent serious damage to the electronics and engine of the car in time.
Where is the ECU ground located?
The ECU mass is usually arranged like this. Separate ground wires are removed from the ECU connector and connected to the engine via the starter mounting bolt. Ground wires are usually black.
In the photo, the thick wire is from the battery, and the thin wires are from the ECU and speed sensor
Everything is simple and reliable. But in reality, over time, the voltage begins to drop in this section of the circuit, slowly but surely, disrupting the operation of the system.
Therefore, this unit must be periodically checked and maintained. We will look at how to do this further.
Troubleshooting
For uninterrupted operation of the battery, the system must be equipped with good quality wires; in this case, copper wires are the most suitable, since they have the best characteristics when operating under voltage.
The thin positive wire coming from the generator must be replaced with a thicker wire.
To protect the existing mass and ensure longer and more trouble-free operation, it is necessary to treat all existing connections and terminal contacts with a special lubricant that has an anti-oxidation function.
You can strengthen the mass by placing additional mass near the generator. Of course, you should not use a thin negative wire to connect to the car body; it is better to use a thick wire. The result will be better, and if problems arise with the main wire, the additional one will be able to start the car, and again you will not have to listen to the clicking of the relay.
As a result of the procedures performed, the car will start more confidently. We will eliminate the problem of frequent battery discharge, which will avoid the loss of much-needed volts for the car and, as a result, ensure the most stable and sufficiently high voltage coming from the generator.
Source: nadomkrat.ru
Weight between engine and body
Line “31”, popularly called “ground”, “minus” or “negative circuit”, is very important for a car. And not only for electrical equipment, but also for many other systems, including the engine or automatic transmission.
Almost all cars have a single-wire on-board network system and the role of the “minus” in this circuit is played by the metal parts of the body. This greatly reduces the number of wires and reduces the cost of the car.
It turns out that all participants in this chain have their own connection to the body - instrument panel, headlights, ECU, engine, etc.
Despite the visual integrity of these connections, over time, due to oxidation and corrosion, the contact slowly and imperceptibly deteriorates, which leads to voltage drops when powerful consumers are turned on or disruption of the system.
I would divide the mass connections into main and local. Let's say that the connection of the head light masses is local and if this connection is disrupted, only the head light will suffer. But if the ground contact from the battery to the body is broken, the entire on-board network will suffer, and this may cause problems in the operation of the engine and other important components and assemblies.
This is how the voltage of the on-board network with problematic masses looks like on the diagnostic graphs
And here is the graph after mass prevention of battery - engine - body
Therefore, a reliable engine-body mass is very important for the proper and trouble-free operation of the entire vehicle.
And the mass of the ECU - engine is even more important, since the voltage in the engine control system does not exceed 5 V. Therefore, this further encourages owners of cars with an engine management system to take the issue of mass more seriously than owners of carburetor cars, where the voltage is 12 -14 B. Because the lower the voltage, the greater the damage from losses in the circuit.
In general, the ground chain must be maintained in perfect condition. It's like an axiom.
Next, let's look at where the engine-body mass is located and how to check it.
Description of "brains"
The VAZ 2114 ECU is an on-board computer of the vehicle, designed to control the main systems of the car. The parameters of the control module affect both the functionality of certain regulators and the operation of the engine as a whole. That is, the importance of this system cannot be denied.
Controller Location
In VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars, the control module is installed under the center console of the car, in particular, in the middle, behind the panel with the radio. To get to the controller, you need to unscrew the latches on the side frame of the console. As for the connection, in Samar modifications with a one and a half liter engine, the mass of the ECU is taken from the power unit housing, from the fastening of the plugs located to the right of the cylinder head.
Location of the ECU in the Chetyrka
In cars equipped with 1.6- and 1.5-liter engines with a new type of ECU, the mass is taken from the welded stud. The pin itself is fixed on the metal body of the control panel near the floor tunnel, not far from the ashtray. During production, VAZ engineers, as a rule, do not securely fix this pin, so over time it can become loose, which will lead to the inoperability of some devices.
Design and principle of operation
The control unit of the electronic system operates in accordance with the indicators received from the sensors:
- speed;
- detonation;
- lambda probe;
- fuel injection phases;
- crankshaft position;
- throttle position;
- air flow meter;
- antifreeze temperature.
In accordance with the data received from these controllers, the control module controls the following systems:
- ignition;
- adsorber;
- injectors, as well as a fuel pump;
- ventilation and heating system;
- programs for diagnosing vehicle performance;
- idle speed regulator (video author - Evgeniy Vekhter).
As for the device, the control module structurally consists of the following components:
- RAM or random access memory. This module contains basic data about recently identified errors detected by the electronic system in the operation of various components. When the driver turns off the ignition, the RAM unit is updated, causing this data to disappear.
- PROM is the main element of the system; it contains the firmware of the control module. It should be noted that this memory block contains all the necessary data on the calibration of the “four” systems along with the general engine control algorithm. Unlike RAM, EPROM is a permanent memory, so the data stored in it is retained even after the ignition is turned off. If necessary, this module can be reconfigured, that is, reprogrammed, which can lead to improved power as well as vehicle dynamics.
- ERPZU - the primary function of this module is to protect the car. The EEPROM memory contains information from the anti-theft installation - passwords, as well as encoding of the main parameters. Starting the engine will only be possible if the EEPROM successfully checks with the data contained in the immobilizer memory.
Typical malfunctions: their symptoms and causes
What are the signs that indicate a faulty ECU:
- there are no control signals coming from actuators (IAC, flow meter, various sensors, etc.);
- there is no signal for interaction with the ignition system, fuel pump, injectors and other elements;
- when connecting a diagnostic tester, there will also be no connection with the electronic system;
- Burnt contacts and mechanical damage to the device may also be a sign.
What reasons contribute to the failure of the control device:
- electrical circuit shorted or broken;
- improper electrical repairs, during which errors were made, in particular, we are talking about installing or repairing an anti-theft system;
- lighting a dead battery from a car with the engine running;
- a breakdown of the unit can be caused by incorrect connection of the battery terminals - plus instead of minus and vice versa;
- disconnecting the battery contacts when the engine is running;
- moisture on the electronic system module board;
- mechanical damage to the device as a result of an accident (the author of the video about repairing the control module in a garage is the Auto Practice channel).
Where is the mass of the engine - battery - body
On most cars, the engine-body mass has a primitive appearance and is made of two pieces of cable connected together by crimping on the negative terminal of the battery
This crimp connects two wires. One goes to the engine and is secured with the starter mounting nut...
...and the second one on the body in the area of the left wing
It would seem that this is the simplest and most reliable chain that will serve well for years. But this is not at all true and it’s all to blame for the weak points in this design, which do not withstand the test of atmospheric influences.
Installation of additional ground wire VAZ 2114: secrets of an auto electrician
To operate the electrical equipment of any modern passenger car, a constant voltage of 12 Volts is used. The power supply circuit is two-wire - the negative bus is the body or engine housing, the plus is supplied from the battery through wires to various circuit devices. If the negative oxidizes or there is no contact, various problems are possible in the electrical circuit of the car. Each car has main places where the mass is attached. To solve problems with the electrical part, you need to know where the main negative points are on the body and power unit. Another minus is often called the common wire.
The mass is attached to the body of a VAZ 2114
How to check mass on a car
In fact, only a small group of motorists pay enough attention to this issue. Others begin to think about it when, when the cooling fan or headlights are turned on, the engine speed begins to sag, or when the rear window heating is turned on, the engine begins to tremble, transmitting vibration throughout the body.
But even at this stage, many limit themselves to a banal inspection and tightening the ground connection nuts on the engine and body. Everything is screwed down - that means everything is in order.
Then the car begins to jerk for no apparent reason, idle speed freezes, misfires, security system glitches, and so on, until the starter fails at the most inopportune moment. But even here, many will not go check the masses, but will run to the store for a new starter. After all, the wire to the starter is intact and there is voltage, but it, a radish, does not turn.
Replacing the starter, of course, does not help. As a result, the still-living battery goes into recycling and the situation seems to have improved, but after a couple of days the starter fails again and you begin to believe in brownies and otherworldly forces that have nothing better to do than cause damage to someone else’s car.
But, fortunately, reason wins and the advice of a good man is remembered - to check the masses.
Again, what's so difficult about this? It is necessary to check the resistance from the engine to the body.
.3.3. Poor Ground Detection
The negative terminal of the battery is connected to “ground” - the metal of the body, engine or gearbox; Moreover, many elements of electrical equipment are connected in such a way that only the positive wire is suitable for them, while the current returns to the battery through the metal of the body. This means that the electrical component mount and the body are part of the electrical circuit. As a result, poor or corroded fasteners can cause the element to fail or cause it to perform erratically or poorly. In particular, light bulbs may glow dimly (especially if the light bulb's ground point is connected to another electrical component that is still on), electric motors may run slowly, and the operation of one circuit may have a seemingly unnoticeable effect on the operation of another circuit.
Don't forget that many vehicles use ground wires between certain components such as the engine/transmission and the body, that is, in areas where there is no direct metal-to-metal contact due to soft rubber mounts or a layer of paint.
To check the reliability of the element's grounding, it is necessary to disconnect the battery and connect one of the ohmmeter probes to a reliably grounded element. Connect another probe to the wire or connection to the body that needs to be checked. The resistance shown by the ohmmeter should be zero; if not, check the connection as follows.
If you suspect there is no ground, disassemble the connection and clean the body area and wire terminal (or the grounding surface of the element) to bare metal. Carefully remove all traces of dirt, then use a knife to remove all paint so that there is reliable contact between the two metal surfaces.
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When assembling, tighten the connector securely; When connecting a wire terminal, install a serrated washer between the terminal and the body surface to ensure a secure connection. When connecting, prevent future corrosion by applying a layer of Vaseline or silicone grease.
