Replacing the VAZ 2114/2015 steering rack with your own hands, photo, video

Causes and symptoms of malfunctions

There are several reasons why the VAZ-2114 steering rack needs to be replaced:

Natural wear and tear of components;
Wear due to foreign particles (sand, dirt) getting inside the mechanism;
Damage to the rack or pinion teeth.

Natural wear and tear is understandable. If a car has driven more than 100 thousand km (and on our roads maybe less), then play in the steering is a common occurrence. But other causes of malfunctions are influenced by the features of operation and maintenance.

Damaged boots and oil seals, careless operation of the car, ignoring adjustment work - all this significantly reduces the life of the steering mechanism and leads to damage that makes further use of the unit impossible.

A worn or faulty VAZ-2114 steering rack will definitely manifest itself, and the symptoms can be different:

Increased free play in the steering;
Knocks from the steering rack when driving over uneven surfaces;
Strong vibrations in the steering wheel;
The car pulls in different directions;
Crunching in the area of the steering mechanism when turning;
Wedging;
"Weighting" of the steering wheel.

Since many symptoms are also inherent in problems with other components of the VAZ-2114 steering, before making a replacement, you should first make a diagnosis.

It comes down to checking the camber/toe angles, the condition of the rod ends and silent blocks, as well as the column shaft and its components.

Lubrication

For VAZ cars, the only steering rack lubricant recommended by the manufacturer is FIOL-1.

1. Lubrication during assembly. First, the rail and the internal cavity of the housing are lubricated.

How to adjust wheel alignment with your own hands? - there is more useful information here.

A generous coat is then applied to the plastic sleeve.
Lubricant is placed in the seat for the needle bearing.
The rail is installed in the housing.
The steering gear shaft is lubricated.
Grease gets clogged up in the bearing.
The stop is lubricated.
Screws and stoppers are installed.
The casing and anthers are put on.

2. Lubrication without removing the rack. After cutting through the plastic clamps, the side protective caps are removed.

It is through the side holes in the rack body that lubricant is pumped. It is recommended to carry out this procedure at least once every 150 thousand km.

For convenience and greater efficiency, you can use a syringe with a nozzle made of a rubber hose of such a diameter that you can insert it between the rail and the body. The hose must be pushed from the side where the rod bolts are attached.

You may be interested in this article - When and how is a wheel bearing replaced?

At this point on the bushing there is a cut through which the lubricant will pass into the space behind the bushing and lubricate the steering mechanism.

How to lubricate the steering rack in the absence of FIOL:

Litol. It is the most suitable lubricant to replace the recommended one. Has good lubricating properties and durability.
Solid oil. Not recommended due to its tendency to dry out over time and lose its lubricating properties.
Graphite grease. For the same reason as grease, it is not entirely suitable for lubricating the rack.

When is replacement carried out?

If the condition of the listed elements does not cause any complaints, and adjustment work cannot be performed due to backlash, the fault lies in the steering mechanism itself.

Increased free play and knocking can still be eliminated by adjustment. While under the car on the mechanism body, you can find an adjusting screw for a special key, which can be replaced with a 17mm hexagon.

Using a wrench, tighten the screw until it stops, and then unscrew it by ? revolutions, and check the “heaviness” of the steering wheel. It should rotate easily, then you can check the behavior of the steering on the road.

If the adjustment does not help, the play and knocking remain, the VAZ-2114 steering rack needs to be repaired or replaced.

Read on the topic: The play in the steering, what it should be, is normal.

But if there is a crunch in the rack, you can immediately start replacing it, since adjustment with such symptoms obviously will not help.

Replacing the VAZ-2114 rack can be entrusted to service station specialists, but you will have to pay. The cost of replacement services at service centers varies from $20 to $45. And if we add the price of the rail itself, then the amount comes out to be considerable.

You can replace everything yourself, saving on this, especially since performing the operation on a VAZ-2114 is not difficult and even a novice car enthusiast can do it.

Also read about the causes of knocking when turning the steering wheel.

Which is the best steering rack for the VAZ 2114

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In general, the steering wheel is knock knock... There was an idea to refute it, but it’s not a fact that the mileage is 155,110 at the moment.

I was choosing between the factory one for 3500 and the company PILENGA 2500. Your way out, gentlemen.

Advice from car enthusiasts

I bought a repair kit, went through it after 1500 and the knocker rattled. No matter how much the monkey’s work went through all this to people, it wouldn’t last long, he always warned them about it. But I had no finances and out of desperation I overdid it for myself. Now I'm looking for a new one. The range in prices is great, native from 3300 to 3650. CC20 from 5400 to 6200, so I’m thinking about what to insert.
Then there was the problem of replacing the rack. Mileage 83. I bought a repair kit, removed the rack, disassembled it and realized that there was no point in repairing it, the difference in the thickness of the teeth on the rasp in the middle and in the extreme positions is visible. The bushing and thrust bearing are intact. The repair kit went into the trash bin. After reading positive reviews on the drive about the peeling slats, I was seduced by an oblique tooth and decided to try it. I couldn’t find it in stock anywhere in stores, so I ordered it on the Asta store website. When the manager of this store called to confirm the order, he asked me whether I was going to continue driving my car or selling it... In general, all these pelings, according to the manager, are complete slag. I'll take the factory.
I took the factory one in January 2015, in Lada, drove 57,000, so far it seems to be working.
The rack itself is knocking, I decided that I would change it. I read the information, everyone scolds it, depending on your luck. I chose between trialli and pilenga; they differ from the factory design in that they have a worm drive and the rack shaft has an additional stop.
There was a slight play in the steering wheel, and naturally there was a knock, the boot broke. When replacing the boot, I also used a repair kit. At the time of repair, the mileage was about 140 t.km., now it is 157 t.km. so far everything is fine. The repair kit is not expensive and the work is done in the evening if you do it alone.
VAZ Inter service is a complete mess, it’s hard to find a good one, LGR has never heard of anything like it. Install the SS-20 and forget about the rack for the rest of the life of the car.
After annual replacement of rails from VIS, I installed Pilenga. So far the flight is normal, let's see what happens next. PS SS-20 is not brought to our village, I would 100% install it.

Changing the rack yourself

There are two ways to replace the rack. The method is selected based on why exactly the mechanism is being removed - for replacement or repair.

In the case of installing a new rail, you should first determine its completeness.

They go on sale both assembled with steering rods and without them.

The first replacement option involves pressing out the tips from the steering knuckles, so the work will require a special puller.

Tools and accessories

To carry out the replacement you will need:

Socket or open-end wrenches for 10, 13, 17, 22 (but better - heads with a knob equipped with a ratchet mechanism);
Jacks and supports;
WD-40 product;
Flat screwdriver;
Hammer;
Rags;
Tip remover (if the rods are also dismantled).

Work technology

Let's look at how to replace the VAZ-2114 steering rack without changing the rods. The technology for carrying out the work is as follows:

We put the car on a flat area or hole, immobilize it (tighten the handbrake, put wheel chocks under the rear wheels);
Loosen the wheel bolts;
Using jacks, we hang up the front of the car, then secure it with props. If you have one jack, first lift one side, put a support, remove the lifting mechanism and go to the other side;
Remove the front wheels;
In the arch on the left side, in the direction of travel of the car, there is a technological hole that can be covered with a lid (not always). We dismantle this cover;
If there is an absorber, loosen the clamp securing it, pull out the element and move it to the side;
Using a hammer and a screwdriver, we bend the antennae of the plate, which prevent the bolts securing the rods to the rack from loosening (for ease of work, you can turn the steering wheel to position the rack in a place that is easy to access);
We unscrew the fastening bolts and pull them out together with the fixing plate;
We move the rods to the side;
In the cabin, in front of the front shield, at the bottom we find the junction of the column shaft with the gear shaft of the mechanism. Unscrew the fixing bolt. By moving the steering wheel towards you, we move the connection;
Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nuts securing the brackets that secure the mechanism. They should be treated with WD-40 first, as they often rust. Attempts to unscrew without pre-treatment may lead to breakage of the pin;
Remove the staples;
We move the mechanism towards the engine so that the gear shaft completely comes out of the hole in the shield;
We pull out the assembly through the technological hole;
We push the new mechanism through the hole, correctly place it, fix it and connect it to the column.

Reassembling the steering control is done in the reverse order of removal.

The nuances of replacing the assembly assembly

In the case of replacing the VAZ-2114 rack assembly with rods, we proceed somewhat differently.

There is no need to unscrew the rods from the rack during the work. But you will have to disconnect the tips from the stand. This operation will not be difficult if you have a puller.

If it is not available, you can use the folk method;

Unbend and remove the stopper;
Unscrew the tip nut;
We take the pry bar and place it between the rod and the protrusion of the stand, to which the tip is attached;
We use a pry bar to create a pressing force and at the same time apply sharp blows with a hammer to the protrusion (usually 2-3 blows are enough for the tip to “pop out”).

Next, we do everything identical to what was described: unscrew the fastening nuts and the fixing bolt on the column shaft. Afterwards all that remains is to remove the mechanism and replace it with a new one.

After replacement, it will be necessary to adjust the camber/toe angles of the VAZ-2114 steering, even if the rods were not removed. This operation will definitely not be superfluous.

Diagnostics and restoration of slats

Instead of purchasing a new rack, you can try to repair the one installed on the car. But first you need to make a diagnosis.

To do this, we completely disassemble the assembly into its component parts and carry out troubleshooting. This will allow you to determine which elements are extremely worn or damaged.

Repair kits for restoring the steering mechanism are sold on the market. Moreover, their completeness is very different.

Some include only rubber and plastic elements (oil seals, boots, bushings).

Others come with a new rack, gear, connecting elements, bearings (in general, almost all components).

With the help of repair kits, you can restore the functionality of the “native” unit, but only on the condition that the body is intact and does not have significant wear.

The use of repair kits can significantly reduce the cost of repair work. But they do not always allow you to restore functionality and problems with the steering remain even after repairs.

In this case, there is only one way out - replacing the steering rack with a new one.

Steering rack VAZ 2114 - what it consists of

Before proceeding directly to the verification process, you need to know the design features of the steering rack. Let's look at what elements it consists of:

Steering rack structure: 1 – protective cap; 2 – steering gear housing; 3 – rack; 4 – drive gear; 5 – inner tie rod end; 6 – spacer sleeve; 7 – tie rod mounting bolt; 8 – connecting plate; 9 – support sleeve; 10 – steering gear support; 11 – rack support sleeve; 12 – protective cover; 13 – clamp; 14 – rack restrictive ring; 15 – sealing ring of the rack stop; 16 – nut; 17 – rack stop; 18 – roller bearing; 19 – ball bearing; 20 – retaining ring; 21 – nut sealing ring; 22 – gear bearing fastening nut; 23 – boot; 24 – lock washer.

Selecting a replacement unit

The choice of a new unit for the VAZ-2114 should be approached seriously. The main problem is that very often there are defective products on the market that are already faulty or will fail in a very short time.

The best option is to purchase an original unit. The VAZ-2114 uses the same mechanism as the cars of the Samara 1 family (2108, 2109, 21099). Therefore, its catalog number is 2108-3400012, that is, when searching, you can safely ask for a rack for the “Eight” and not worry that it will not fit. The average cost is $100.

You can also buy analogue racks produced by auto parts manufacturers. But here you should pay attention to the manufacturer (it must be well-known), as well as the availability of quality certificates.

Among analog products, we recommend paying attention to steering mechanisms from the following manufacturers:

Weber CG 2108-0012 (its price starts at $80);
Pilenga SR-P 1141 (costs $100);
Trialli CR 108 and CR S 708 (the first comes without rods and lugs and costs about $100, the second has an assembled mechanism, which is why it costs twice as much).

For those who want to slightly modify the steering, you can look for tuning racks. The main difference between them is the lower number of revolutions. They are also positioned by manufacturers as reinforced.

Regarding manufacturers, it is worth looking for products from the Italian company Brembo, the Polish company ATF, or the Russian company SS20.

As for the latter manufacturer, it only produces steering racks for the 10th VAZ family, so after acquisition the mechanism will have to be slightly altered.

But we note that tuning slats will cost much more than the original or conventional analogues. So, for a Brembo unit you will have to pay about $250, for ATF - about $200, and SS20 - approximately $210-220.

How to service the hydraulic booster

Should I change the fluid in the power steering reservoir or not? Most automakers say nothing about the timing, hinting that it is filled for virtually its entire service life, but many services change it once or twice. Some experts, however, recall that darkening of the liquid does not mean a loss of working properties and believe that replacement can be harmful. The fact is that air enters the system, which can provoke turbulent flows, causing oil starvation of the pump and washing away dirt from the walls of the lines into the rail.

When replacing, be sure to take into account its base - it can be mineral or synthetic. Pouring “synthetics” into a system intended for “mineral water” will render the rubber components unusable.

We advise you to read:

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New inspection rules 2018
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New or refurbished?

Among car enthusiasts, the question often arises regarding the steering rack - should I purchase a new one for replacement or restore the “original” one? It is impossible to answer unequivocally here.

If the repair was carried out independently and using a high-quality repair kit, then after restoration the rack can serve for quite a long time.

But if you purchase a restored rack or if it is repaired at a service station, there is a high probability that problems will soon arise. After all, it is unknown who, how and with what help carried out the restoration.

As for new units, there are a lot of defective racks on the market.

In general, it is still better to try to repair the rack first, since it is much cheaper. It is worth purchasing a new mechanism only after you have already become convinced that the restoration did not help.

A faulty power steering manifests itself as follows:

Steering power in both directions disappears. Perhaps the rubber ring of the floating washer inside the power steering is destroyed.
There is no gain at idle, if the speed increases, the gain appears.
Extraneous sounds during power steering operation.
Power steering fluid foams.

There may be a large number of signs of malfunction, as well as reasons; it is probably impossible to list them all, however, I think that the above “symptoms” of a faulty steering rack and power steering will be enough for you to conclude that the part has failed building and requires immediate repair or replacement. I wish you good luck in diagnosing and repairing the steering rack yourself.

Steering rack for VAZ 2114 - how it works, removal, repair