How to remove and repair a carburetor on a VAZ 2106/2107

What models are installed on VAZ 2106/2107 cars

All types of carburetor mechanisms equipped with the VAZ 2106/2107 are aimed at reducing fuel consumption and giving the car maximum dynamism. In addition, an important role is played by such an indicator as environmental friendliness. For a decade, AvtoVAZ engineers gave preference to the most environmentally friendly types of carburetors.

Carburetors of three different models were installed on modern VAZ 2106/2107, as well as on cars produced in previous years:

1. Manufacturer: Dimitrovgrad Automobile Assembly Plant (or DAAZ). It should be noted that the company produced carburetors under license from Weber. Structurally, these devices were as simple as possible both in operation and in further maintenance. In addition, their main advantage was to provide excellent speed performance for cars of the sixth and seventh VAZ models. At the same time, DAAZ carburetors consume a very large amount of gasoline - from 10 to 14 liters per 100 kilometers.
2. Manufacturer: DAAZ, modification “Ozone”. This is a more advanced version of the first type of DAAZ, which has high environmental performance. The device provides good acceleration characteristics and consumes less than 10 liters of fuel per 100 kilometers. However, the disadvantage of this model is that it comes with a second camera. In its operation, a pneumatic valve plays an important role, which, in case of contamination or poor-quality adjustment, can stop the carburetor from working.
3. Manufacturer: DAAZ, modification 21053, which is produced under license from Solex. One of the most modern types of carburetors for equipping the VAZ 2106/2107. Maximum environmentally friendly and productive. It has a more complex design; the first in the DAAZ line is equipped with a reverse fuel supply system, which makes it as economical as possible. However, Solexes are demanding on the quality of gasoline - otherwise the fuel nozzles become clogged very quickly.

Modern VAZ 2107 models are equipped with this unit.

Common features in the design of carburetors for the VAZ Six and VAZ Seven

The carburetor mechanisms that are equipped with all VAZ 2106/2107 models throughout the entire production period of the car are two-chamber, that is, they have two internal combustion chambers . Structurally, all carburetors have three indivisible parts:

• at the top there is a cover of the device, which protects the mechanism from dirt, and fuel fittings;
• the middle part is a housing, inside which the chambers and diffusers themselves are located, transfers the air-fuel mixture to the engine;
• The float compartment and throttle valves are located in the lower part.

In the operation of DAAZ carburetors, small parts are of great importance - gaskets, jets, float, economizer or dampers. All elements of the system are interconnected and failures in one part will inevitably lead to failure of the entire device.

The DAAZ carburetor on the VAZ 2106/2107 works according to the following principle:

1. Gasoline enters the float chamber through the inlet valve.
2. The required fuel level is regulated by the needle of the forced idle economizer or power stroke economizer - in any case, fuel enters the chamber in a strictly defined proportion.
3. Next, the fuel is sent to emulsion chamber No. 1 through nozzles.
4. In the chamber (or VBC), gasoline is crushed into small parts and mixed with air.
5. When the torque increases during acceleration, internal combustion chamber No. 2 may also be activated.
6. After the formation of the air-fuel mixture, the pump directs it to the diffusers, and through them to the engine.

That is, the main task of the carburetor is to form the air-fuel mixture in a strictly adjusted proportion to ensure smooth operation of the engine.

The presence of many small elements ensures reliable operation

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2107.

Good afternoon to all visitors of the site zerga.ru. In this article I will tell you how to correctly replace the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2107. This process is almost the same for all classic VAZ (Zhiguli) models, so I will limit myself to only one VAZ 2107 model.

When is it necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket?

There are several reasons, some of them are critical, while others are not so much, that is, with some damage the car can be used, but with others it is not. I will try to list the main symptoms.

Breakdown of the gasket between the cooling system channel and the drainage channels of the lubrication system.

With such damage, the coolant enters the oil pan and mixes with the oil. When mixing coolant with oil, a light brown emulsion is obtained. You can see this when checking the oil level in the engine by pulling out the dipstick. If you see that the coolant is leaving the radiator and the oil has turned a cloudy light brown color, then most likely the gasket has ruptured and further operation of the engine is strictly prohibited, because it can lead to jamming and destruction of the engine.

Breakdown of the gasket between the cooling system channel and the cylinder.

If the cylinder head gasket is not of good quality or the head is not tightly tightened, the gasket may break through and then some of the gases under pressure enter the cooling system and, as a rule, eject coolant from the expansion tank.

Burnout of the gasket between the cylinders.

It looks something like this.

With such a burnout, compression in the cylinders drops, and the engine begins to operate unstably. In this case, the cylinder head gasket needs to be replaced.

Destruction of the gasket.

Well, another reason is the destruction of the gasket. How does this manifest itself? This is manifested by the fact that coolant begins to seep between the block and the head, which is accompanied by bubbles.

An attempt to tighten the head did not bring any results. The seepage still remains.

For all these damages, the cylinder head gasket needs to be replaced.

Let's start replacing the cylinder head gasket. Disassembly.

The first thing we will start with is to remove the air filter; how to remove it, I recommend reading the article “Air Filter”. Now we can see everything and have access to everything.

Next we move on to the carburetor. Some mechanics do not remove it and pull out the cylinder head along with the carburetor, but I still recommend removing it for convenience and so as not to damage it. How to properly remove a carburetor, read the article “Removing and installing a VAZ carburetor.”

The next step to free the mounted components and mechanisms will be to remove the ignition distributor and its wires; you can find out more about this in the special article “Ignition distributor”.

And now we get to the engine. In the next step, we need to drain the coolant from the cooling system. This process is quite interesting, because the manufacturer installs a regular plug in the block, not a tap, and draining the coolant is very inconvenient for a person who often does not do this.

It goes something like this. We are looking for a container for liquid, about ten liters and about a meter of rubber hose, approximately the size so that the hole is at least ten millimeters. Place a container under the engine and place one end of the rubber hose in it. We connect the other end of the hose to the drain plug. Take the key and unscrew the plug. Next, remove the plug with one hand, and with the other hand, quickly press the hose against the hole, and the liquid will drain into a special container. The only downside to this process is that some liquid will spill on your hands.

After the coolant has been drained, disconnect the rubber pipes. We disconnect two pipes from the tee, which is attached to the head, and one pipe from the stove.

Now we need to remove the valve cover. Unscrew the eight nuts and remove the figured washers. Be careful not to lose the clamping washers, because they provide the best clamping.

After removing the head cover, we need to remove the chain from the camshaft gear. To remove the gear you need to loosen the chain tensioner. We take the key and release the special nut on the tensioner, or it’s better to remove it altogether by unscrewing two nuts, whichever is convenient for you.

Now that the motor chain is loose, you can remove the timing gear. The bolt that secures the gear to the camshaft is secured with a special lock washer. Using a large screwdriver and hammer, bend the edges of the lock washer.

Bend back the lock washer and unscrew the bolt.

The entire disassembly process can be viewed in more detail in the article “Disassembling a VAZ engine part 2.”

We take out the bolt and remove the gear from the shaft. Carefully remove the chain from the gear. We will not be able to remove the chain completely and we need, no matter what it falls down, to do this we need to tie it with wire and secure it.

Let's move on to removing the camshaft. To do this, you need to unscrew nine nuts and remove the shaft itself.

And finally we just have to remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. The receiving pipe is secured with four nuts, which are made of brass. They are made of brass so that they do not stick to the studs, so if you have regular nuts installed, then there is a chance of tearing off the stud.

We have come to removing the cylinder head. We take the head with a powerful wrench and unscrew the ten bolts that secure the cylinder head.

Let’s not forget about the eleventh small bolt, which is installed on the ebb of the head.

The head can be removed very easily, you just pry it up and take it out, you can also ask a friend to help, no matter what scratches the car.

Next, you need to inspect the gasket itself for damage.

Search for defects in the cylinder head gasket.

As a rule, by looking at the gasket you can see where it is damaged, but our task is to determine the reason why the gasket failed. By identifying the real cause, we can prevent a similar malfunction in the future. Usually, after replacing a couple of gaskets in a fairly short period, we begin to change the heads, grind them and carry out other (unnecessary) procedures that we could do without.

Let's look at some of the causes of head gasket problems.

In the photo above you can see how the gasket between the cylinders has burned out. What caused this to happen? There is a very small distance between the cylinders and cooling is poor, which means overheating is possible. The use of low-quality fuel leads to detonation, and this is the engine’s worst enemy, as they say, “It breaks where it’s thin.” Another point is the deformation of the head itself. Under all the above conditions, the head is subject to deformation and such burnout is possible in the future.

Here is another example of a damaged cylinder head gasket. What do you think caused the gasket failure? I have seen this a couple of times in my life, and the owner of this car used ordinary water instead of antifreeze or antifreeze. For the winter, he drained the water, and the car sat until spring. Here the gasket was simply destroyed by rust. So saving can lead to undesirable consequences.

There are, of course, reasons such as poor quality spare parts and gaskets, so it’s like a lottery whether you’re lucky or not. Having purchased a new gasket, we install it in place.

Installing the cylinder head gasket. Assembly.

Before installing a new cylinder head gasket, thoroughly clean the gasket contact surface on the cylinder block from traces of the old gasket. If this is not done, then during engine operation small channels may form through which, then coolant or oil will leak out. You also need to inspect the cylinder head and if some repairs are required, it is better to do it right away than to disassemble it again later. I recommend reading the corresponding article on this topic, “Repairing the cylinder head of a VAZ car.” After cleaning the block, install a new gasket.

The photo shows how we install a new type of gasket. How is the new gasket different from the old gasket? The gasket contains sealant, which is applied in a thin strip around the perimeter. To be honest, I don’t see any benefit in this, just to increase the cost. Also, the holes for the coolant are made round with a small diameter, and not shaped like on the old gaskets. But since there were no others, we will put this one. We lay the gasket and center it using two guides, they are indicated by red arrows in the photo above.

Having cleared the head of traces of the old gasket, we install it in place.

The next big step is to tighten the cylinder head. This process will determine how long the new gasket will last. Tightening the head is not done just like that, but with a certain force and the required sequence. The bolts must be tightened with a special (torque) wrench. To properly tighten the bolts, there is a special diagram that shows in what order they should be tightened.

As shown in the photo, the bolts are tightened from the middle, which ensures uniform pressure. The bolts are tightened in at least two passes, the first with a force of 4 kgf m, and the second 11.5 kgf m. The eleventh bolt is tightened to a maximum force of 3.8 kgf m. What is kgf m? It stands for kilogram of force per meter.

After installing the cylinder head, install the gas camshaft. The most difficult thing that can happen is installing and adjusting the camshaft gear. I recommend installing a split gear; it makes adjustments easier and more accurate. How to install a split gear on a Classic, I recommend reading the article “Installing a VAZ split gear.”

Next we put everything back together.

That's all, we replaced the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ 2107.

How to repair a carburetor yourself

Repair work on the VAZ 2106/2107 carburetor involves removing and disassembling the mechanism. In this case, the repair includes all two stages:

1. Washing (cleaning, blowing) elements from carbon deposits and adhering dirt.
2. Replacement of worn or failed parts.

Before carrying out any actions with the unit, you must firmly make sure that the carburetor is faulty. Often, incorrect operation of other systems can affect the performance of the carburetor mechanism.

For the smooth operation of an internal combustion engine, high-quality cooling is necessary. One of the elements of this system is a water pump, which circulates the antifreeze. You can read more about repairing your pump yourself here:

The carburetor is located under the hood, above the engine.

Troubleshooting

DAAZ carburetors of any modification are designed to operate stably regardless of operating modes. However, it is precisely the change of modes (for example, starting “cold” or accelerating when overtaking) that can show the first problems in the operation of the device. The carburetor is clearly faulty if:

• at idle there are failures in engine operation;
• while driving, a time interval is noticed between pressing the gas pedal and accelerating the car;
• jerks in engine operation at high speeds;
• a series of jerks when overtaking;
• Gasoline consumption has increased significantly;
• Difficulty starting the engine after long periods of parking.

Each of these signs, as well as their combination, indicates that there is a problem with the carburetor and repairs or adjustments are necessary.

Overflows

One of the most common problems with carburetor engines is the so-called overflow. An excessive amount of fuel is supplied inside the device, and for some reason the check valve is not able to drain excess gasoline back into the tank. Therefore, under the carburetor and on it itself, the driver may notice drops of fuel.

In this case, it is recommended to clean all the fuel supply and exhaust channels, as well as the jets - most likely, the holes are clogged with debris. Diagnostics of the accelerator pump will not be superfluous.

Shoots

This concept is inextricably linked with transfusion. If the carburetor begins to shoot (or sneeze) - that is, jerk sharply while driving and even ignite - there is a fuel leak. The mechanism needs to be flushed.

Gasoline is not supplied

The problem may lie either in the carburetor itself (the jets are seriously clogged or the pump is broken) or in the supply hoses. It is recommended to blow out the fuel supply pipe and test the operation of the fuel pump. If they function normally, you will have to remove the carburetor and wash it.

The secondary internal combustion chamber does not work

Failure to operate PIC No. 2 will immediately affect the vehicle’s dynamism: it loses almost 50% of its original speed characteristics. The problem is that the throttle valve is sticking, which regulates the flow of fuel into the chamber cavity. You will have to disassemble the mechanism and replace the damper with a new one.

Video: how to repair a carburetor on a VAZ 2106

Troubleshooting

In order to understand the condition of the carburetor in a car, it is enough to carry out a little diagnostics.

Signs of a carburetor malfunction:

• the car began to consume more gasoline than it previously required;
• the engine begins to overheat quickly;
• Black smoke is pouring out of the muffler and popping, “sneezing” and “shooting” noises can be heard. These malfunctions appear when high-voltage wires are incorrectly connected, late ignition, incorrect operation of the distributor and ignition system switch, after unsuccessful repair of the timing belt, or with an inappropriate fuel mixture;
• the car began to noticeably lose power when driving;
• the car accelerates much more slowly;
• failures occur when, when you press the gas pedal, the car does not react instantly, but acceleration occurs gradually and with a delay;
• there are jerks - frequent and short dips;
• swaying occurs - several dips with insignificant intervals.

It is important to remember that before you begin to repair the carburetor, you should diagnose the entire engine power system and its technical condition.

Typical carburetor malfunctions:

1. There is no fuel in the float chamber or the fuel mixture is too rich/lean. In this case, the car engine does not start at all or starts but immediately stalls.
2. The idle passages or jets are clogged.
3. The solenoid valve operates intermittently.
4. Failures have appeared in the control unit or among the elements of the forced idle economizer (EFI).
5. The rubber o-ring has started to work incorrectly or has melted.
6. The fuel “overflows” and the level in the float chamber does not hold. The reason is the depressurization of the fuel valve.

How to remove the unit

Indeed, this question may take an inexperienced owner of a “six” or “seven” by surprise. But the dismantling procedure itself is not considered difficult. The main thing is to remember or write down the connection points of different hoses, since the reverse installation may cause difficulties during the first experience.

It is recommended to dismantle the DAAZ carburetor on a cold engine, since the device is located directly on the intake manifold.

It is important to disconnect the fuel lines and wires in sequence

The preparatory stage includes removing the air filter box, since the filter will prevent free access to the carburetor . Further work takes no more than 10 minutes:

1. First, two thin wires are disconnected from the carburetor body - the first ensures the operation of the air damper, and the second is connected to the throttle.
2. The return spring and its retainer are immediately disconnected.
3. The next step is to disconnect the forced idle economizer wire.
4. Loosen the clamp connection on the wide gasoline supply pipe and remove the hose itself. After this, you can remove the fuel return hose.
5. The ventilation and vacuum hoses can be disconnected from the fittings at the top of the housing.
6. Next, it is possible to dismantle the carburetor block itself. To do this, you need to unscrew the four fastening nuts and carefully remove the carburetor along with the gasket from the studs.
7. During work, it is recommended to close the open hole in the manifold with soft cloths or a special plug, which can be purchased at a car dealership. This will ensure the cleanliness of the engine and prevent dirt from getting inside the power unit.

Idle adjustment: the last stage of carburetor tuning

After setting up the float chamber and debugging the starting device, you can safely move on to the final stage, which allows you to adjust the engine idle speed. For this purpose, the carburetor design includes so-called quantitative and qualitative screws.

As in the case of debugging the starting mechanism, it is necessary to warm up the engine well beforehand. After this we perform the following steps:

• Using a high-quality screw, we set the maximum engine rotation speed;
• Let's move on to the quantity screw. Using it, you need to reduce the speed by about 100 rpm. After this, we start the power unit and continue to turn the screw to achieve the optimal level of engine speed.

Correct adjustment of the idle speed makes it possible to achieve stable operation of the engine, as well as eliminate possible malfunctions and failures. If your goal is also to increase power, you can make a number of changes to the design of the standard carburetor or replace it with a Solex-type device that functions more efficiently.

To tune the carburetor, work is carried out such as removing the spring from the vacuum drive, installing more efficient air and fuel jets, as well as installing a new diffuser marked 4.5 (instead of the standard 3.5). Such a simple modification makes it possible to significantly improve the performance of both the device itself and the car engine.

Washing DAAZ without disassembling

Flushing DAAZ carburetors is recommended by the manufacturer in cases where there are clearly any problems with its operation: increased gasoline consumption, jerks and jolts when driving, unstable idle speed, problems with starting.

The traditional method of washing carburetors is to completely disassemble them into individual components, which is not always possible for an inexperienced VAZ owner to do. To simplify the procedure, a technique was created for washing and cleaning the carburetor without disassembling it into components. This technique is based on the use of special aerosols in cans. The most affordable carburetor cleaners are considered to be aerosols produced by ABRO and Mannol - they can be bought at any auto store for 100–150 rubles.

The cans are equipped with a thin tube for access to all parts of the carburetor

These cleaners do an excellent job of cleaning carburetor mechanisms, and they are also very easy to use. To flush the carburetor, it is recommended to turn off the engine, let it cool and begin the procedure:

1. Remove the air filter box from the car and place it to the side.
2. Unscrew the solenoid valve from the carburetor body.
3. Place a special narrow nozzle on the aerosol can and treat the nozzle channels, first and second chambers, dampers and all visible elements of the carburetor assembly with liquid.
4. After this, spray the aerosol on the external parts of the mechanism.
5. Wait 5–8 minutes (depending on the aerosol manufacturer’s recommendations). During this time, the liquid will be able to corrode accumulations of soot and dirt.
6. Next, you can start the engine so that it removes all remaining dirt.
7. If during one procedure the carburetor did not have time to be properly cleaned, then you can treat it again with the same aerosol.

After such cleaning, the VAZ 2108/2109 will significantly increase its dynamic characteristics, since the accumulation of dirt will not interfere with the normal operation of all parts of the carburetor.

Idle speed adjustment.

Idle speed is adjusted to ensure stable engine speed at idle with a minimum content of carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (CH) in the exhaust gases. We recommend carrying out this operation at the “CO-CH” adjustment points.

Idle speed adjustment is carried out using a quantity screw, which reduces or increases the amount of fuel-air mixture entering the engine, and a quality screw, which regulates the air-fuel ratio.

We carry out the adjustment using a gas analyzer. The engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, the ignition and valves must be adjusted, and the choke must be fully open.

1. Using the quantity screw, we adjust the crankshaft rotation speed to 820–900 rpm;
2. Using the quality screw we achieve a CO concentration in the exhaust gases within 0.5–1.2%! at a given position of the quantity screw;
3. Again, use the quantity screw to adjust the crankshaft speed to 820–900 rpm;
4. If necessary, use the quality screw to adjust the CO concentration within 0.5–1.2%!

How to change the gasket

Over the years, gaskets made from a wide variety of materials were installed on DAAZ: heat-resistant cardboard, paronite, metal. The main function of the gasket is to create the most reliable and tight connection between the carburetor body and the surface of the engine intake manifold. This is the only way to ensure normal operation of the power unit.

After dismantling the carburetor, it is necessary to inspect the gasket for deformations, tears or severe dents. The manufacturer recommends changing the seal after each carburetor removal.

On the left - new, in the center - when dismantling the carburetor for the first time, on the right - after 3 years of operation of the car

The gasket is selected according to the type of the old one. You cannot install a gasket made of a different material or with a change in shape - it will not be able to provide an adequate joint between the parts of the mechanisms.

The gasket replacement procedure is not difficult:

1. A new gasket is placed on the carburetor mounting studs.
2. Before this, you need to clean the planting site from soot and dirt.
3. It is necessary to install the gasket in the same position as the old one.
4. Then install the carburetor on it and tighten the fixing nuts until they stop.

Types of gaskets used in the carburetor

The following types of gaskets are used in the carburetor:

• Gasket between carburetor and intake manifold. In most engine models, this part is made of paronite. This part is installed directly on the collector plane;
• Thermal insulation gasket. This part is also installed under the carburetor. The thermal insulation gasket is usually made of textolite, so it copes with its function perfectly;
• Lower carburetor gasket. This part is installed between the heat-insulating gasket and the carburetor flange. The lower carburetor gasket is made of metal-textolite material. This gasket perfectly prevents the formation of leaky areas in the lower part of the carburetor mount;
• Upper gasket. This part is installed between the carburetor and the air filter pipe. It is made of dense rubber, therefore it provides a tight connection, preventing the leakage of untreated air;
• Carburetor cover gasket. It is made of thick cardboard and serves to reliably seal the two halves of a Solex carburetor. The Solex carburetor gasket most often causes carburetor malfunction, but this problem can be easily solved if the old gasket is replaced with a new one.

DIY adjustment

Each car owner of a “six” or “seven” has the ability to adjust the carburetor independently. Adjustment work can enhance the dynamic qualities of the car, as well as reduce gasoline consumption. Undoubtedly, these are important indicators for any car owner, so you should be responsible when adjusting the carburetor.

Preparatory stage

Before you start work, you need to prepare thoroughly. This stage is necessary to ensure that nothing distracts the driver during setup and configuration.

First, it is recommended to prepare your work area. The carburetor must be installed on a flat and hard surface; it is better to stock up on rags in advance, as gasoline leaks are possible. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the room in which the adjustment is planned is well ventilated and has high-quality lighting.

The second point of preparation is the set of necessary tools. You will need to prepare in advance a set of wrenches and two screwdrivers - a Phillips and a flathead with a narrow blade.

Next, find the service book for your car. It is there that the operating parameters are indicated, which will need to be checked during adjustment.

Attention! Adjustment work is carried out only after the carburetor has been washed, worn elements have been replaced and the device has been installed on the engine.

How to enrich or lean the mixture

Enriching or depleting the air-fuel mixture must be done at engine idle speed:

1. Start the engine and wait until it warms up to its operating temperature.
2. Tighten the fuel quality and quantity screws until they stop.
3. Next, unscrew each screw 3 turns back.
4. Referring to the idle speed data given in the VAZ service book, set the required number of revolutions by adjusting the screws in one direction or another.
5. That is, the principle of adjusting the mixture is to set the idle speed recommended by the manufacturer by reducing or increasing the enrichment of the mixture (quality screw) and reducing/increasing the amount of mixture (quantity screw).

At the bottom of the tube there is a quality screw, and a little to the right in a tube of smaller diameter there is a quantity screw

How to reduce gasoline consumption

The main element in a carburetor is the float. After you have adjusted the enrichment/leanness of the mixture, the float will invariably return to its axis. However, it may be slightly higher than normal - in this case, fuel consumption will increase. In addition, adjusting the float is also necessary in order to reduce the toxicity of gas emissions, since due to poor-quality sealing of VAZ cars, some gases can enter the cabin.

Adjustment of the float mechanism is carried out on a completely cooled motor. In order to get to it, you will need to remove the air filter box and unscrew the carburetor cap:

1. The float tongue needs to be adjusted.
2. The float stroke should correspond to the recommended value of 8 mm. If on a VAZ 2106/2107 this value is greater, fuel consumption increases; if it is lower, losses in dynamics appear.
3. Adjusting the clamps and axle fastenings allows you to set the desired stroke.
4. Then you need to install the cover on the carburetor and screw the filter box into place.

The following article will help you adjust the carburetor on a NIVA car:

Adjustment of the float tongue is ensured by screws and clamps

Carburetor tuning – what should you know?

It is worth noting that replacing parts may not always help. You also need to pay attention to other elements and devices of the car. Very often a problem arises in the correct operation of the throttle valve. Therefore, it should be checked and, if necessary, repaired.

Many car owners want to improve their carburetor. To do this, you need to buy a modernized carburetor repair kit. The air jets included in it create less resistance to air flow, as a result of which engine power increases.

The most important element of carburetor tuning is the upgraded fuel jets, which come in the repair kit. However, to screw them in, you need to bore the carburetor, since their threads are slightly different. It is not worth taking on the task of modifying and improving the carburetor yourself, since this process requires technical skills, and without practice it may not work out the first time. As a result, you will only ruin the repair kit and, most likely, the carburetor itself.

In order to repair the carburetor as little as possible, it is necessary to promptly replace the fuel and air filters. And also fill it with higher quality high-octane fuel. A standard carburetor repair kit from the manufacturer, as a rule, is of the highest quality, and its work should be enough for 100 thousand km.

Purpose of VAZ carburetor repair kits

Carburetor engines are gradually becoming a thing of the past, giving way to more successful injectors, but in Russia there are still many VAZ Classic cars in use, which are equipped with good old engines with carburetors that have proven their reliability and unpretentiousness. However, the carburetor is a unit that requires more attention from the car owner than the fuel injection system, which is due to the peculiarities of its design and operation.

One of the features of the operation of VAZ carburetors (as well as others) is that over time its parts become clogged, lose their strength properties under the influence of gasoline, and are destroyed, and all this leads to a deterioration in the performance of the entire carburetor as a whole. And repairing any carburetor usually comes down to washing and replacing a limited number of parts.

That is why today repair kits for VAZ carburetors, which contain all the spare parts necessary for repair, are widely used. The repair kit greatly simplifies the maintenance, repair and restoration of the carburetor, eliminating the need to run around the store in search of many parts, cut out gaskets, etc.

If you intend to repair the carburetor, then first of all you need to purchase one, or even two repair kits (fortunately, their price is very, very affordable) - without it there is no point in starting repairs. But first you need to figure out which repair kit you should buy.

Problems with the DAAZ 2107 carburetor

There are many small parts in the carburetor design, each of which is of great importance because it performs a specific job. If at least one of the elements fails, the stable operation of the unit is disrupted. Quite often, problems arise when starting a cold engine or during acceleration. The carburetor is considered faulty when the following symptoms appear:

• when operating at XX, the engine operates with dips, i.e., is unstable;
• when trying to overclock, there is some delay;
• increased fuel consumption;
• Difficulty starting the engine after a long period of inactivity.

Each of these signs indicates the need for repair or adjustment work. Let's look at the most common malfunctions of the “seven” carburetor.

Pouring gasoline

The essence of the problem comes down to the fact that gasoline enters the mixing device in greater quantities than necessary, and the check valve does not drain excess fuel into the gas tank. As a result, drops of gasoline appear outside the carburetor. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to clean the fuel nozzles and their channels.

Shoots

If you hear "shots" coming from the carburetor, the problem is usually caused by excessive fuel entering the carburetor. The malfunction manifests itself in the form of sharp twitching while driving. The solution to the problem is to flush the unit.

Gasoline is not supplied

The occurrence of a problem may be due to clogged nozzles, a breakdown of the fuel pump, or malfunction of the gasoline supply hoses. In such a situation, you should blow out the supply pipe using a compressor and check the fuel pump. If no problems were identified, you will have to dismantle the unit and flush it.

Lack of gasoline supply may be caused by clogged nozzles

The second camera does not work

Problems with the secondary camera manifest themselves in the form of a decrease in vehicle dynamics by almost 50%. The malfunction is associated with jamming of the remote control, which has to be replaced with a new part.

Accelerator pump does not work

If there is a problem with the accelerator, fuel may not flow or may be supplied in the form of a short and sluggish stream, which leads to delays during acceleration. In the first case, the reason lies in a clogged fuel nozzle of the accelerator pump or a ball sticking to the check valve sleeve. If the jet is poor, the ball may become stuck or the diaphragm connection between the carburetor body and the cover may leak. The way out of the situation is to clean the parts and check their condition.

The engine stalls when you press the gas

If the engine starts and runs flawlessly at idle, but when you try to move off it stalls, most likely there is insufficient gasoline level in the float compartment. As a result, it is only enough to start the power unit, and at the moment the remote control opens, the level becomes too low, which requires its adjustment.

For normal engine operation, there must be a certain level of fuel in the float chamber.

Types and contents of repair kits

Today we produce a wide range of repair kits designed to repair all models and modifications of VAZ carburetors. In particular, on the market you can find repair kits for carburetors of VAZ “Classic” cars starting with VAZ-2101, kits for more modern Solex carburetors used on VAZ-2107, 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications, carburetors of VAZ engines -1111 “Oka” for others too.

Repair kits can be divided into two categories - full and small. Small kits usually contain a limited number of parts, for example - only the fuel valve, gaskets, all parts except the valve, etc. Complete repair kits contain all the necessary parts; they also often include small repair kits.

You should buy repair kits based on the car model, the engine and carburetor installed on it. Only in this case the parts are guaranteed to fit the carburetor, and the repair will be carried out without interruptions in searching for missing spare parts.

Signs of carburetor problems

Dust, contaminants and foreign particles that enter the carburetor with fuel and air settle on the internal walls of the channels, of which there are many in the design of the unit, which leads to malfunction. The carburetor design includes a number of components, the components of which wear out and become damaged over time, which affects its performance. Signs indicating a carburetor malfunction:

• Difficulty starting the engine;
• Decrease in acceleration dynamics;
• Jerks, failures during acceleration;
• Unstable idle speed;
• Unauthorized stop of the engine;

These signs are also given by other engine systems (the same ignition system), but if the carburetor has not been serviced for a long time, then the reason for poor engine performance lies in this unit.

Disassembling and cleaning the unit

The tools for disassembling the carburetor will be the same as for dismantling. We perform the procedure in the following order:

1. Place the product on a clean surface, unscrew the fasteners of the top cover and remove it.
2. We unscrew the jets and take out the emulsion tubes.
3. We unscrew the accelerator atomizer and remove it by prying it off with a screwdriver.
4. There is a seal under the valve; we remove that too.
5. Using pliers we take out the diffusers of both chambers.
6. Unscrew and remove the accelerator screw.
7. We unscrew the fuel nozzle holder of the transition system, and then remove the nozzle from it.
8. On the other side of the device, unscrew the housing of the XX fuel nozzle and remove the nozzle itself.
9. Unscrew the accelerator cover fasteners.
10. We dismantle the cover, diaphragm with pusher and spring.
11. We remove the return spring from the pneumatic drive lever and the rod clamp, and then remove it from the remote control drive lever.
12. Unscrew the pneumatic drive fasteners and remove it.
13. We separate the two parts of the assembly by unscrewing the corresponding fastener.
14. We remove the economizer and the EPHH microswitch, and then unscrew the adjusting screws for the quality and quantity of the mixture.
15. We lower the assembly body into a suitable sized container with kerosene.
16. We check the integrity of all components and replace them if visible defects are found.
17. We also soak the jets in kerosene or acetone, and blow them and the seats in the carburetor with a compressor.

Table: calibration data for DAAZ 2107 jets

To clean the float chamber from dirt, you need to use a medical bulb. It is used to collect remaining fuel and debris at the bottom. It is not recommended to use rags, as lint can get into the jets and clog them.

Cleaning the carburetor without disassembling

The most common way to remove contaminants from inside a product involves disassembling it piece by piece, which not every car enthusiast can do. There is also a simpler option for cleaning the unit without disassembling it using special aerosols. The most popular are ABRO and Mannol.

The carburetor can be cleaned without disassembling using special products in cans

Washing is carried out as follows:

1. With the engine turned off and cooled down, dismantle the air filter housing and unscrew the solenoid valve.
2. We put the tube included in the kit on the can and process the nozzle channels, both chambers, dampers and all visible parts of the carburetor.
3. After application, wait about 10 minutes. During this time, the liquid will eat away dirt and deposits.
4. We start the engine, as a result of which any remaining contaminants will be removed.
5. If the performance of the carburetor is not completely restored, you can repeat the cleaning procedure again.

Before you start repairing or adjusting the carburetor, you need to be sure that it is the problem. In addition, the unit must be periodically inspected and cleaned of contaminants that form both outside and inside the mechanism, which step-by-step instructions will help you with.

Adjusting the throttle drive

If this drive is incorrectly configured, the car's engine response drops and acceleration dynamics deteriorate. The setup is done with an assistant.

You will need the following tools: a screwdriver, an 8-mm open-end wrench, a flashlight, a ruler or a caliper.

1. Turn down the “choke” (air damper drive) completely.

1. Have your assistant press the gas pedal all the way to the floor. The throttle valve will open completely, as shown in the picture below, you can shine a flashlight into the first chamber. When you release the pedal, the damper should completely close the first chamber without any gaps. If there are gaps, then proceed to the next step.

1. Next, we measure the length of the rod with a caliper; it should be exactly 8 cm. To adjust the length of the rod to the required size, rotate the tips by unscrewing the lock nuts.

After all these operations have been completed, put the rod in place and repeat the check. Nowadays, rods are made of low-quality plastic, which shrinks over time. Therefore, you need to check the operation of the traction after a week or two.

We looked at all the ways to adjust the carburetor yourself. We hope this article helped you, if you have any questions, ask them in the comments and we will definitely answer.

If you disassemble the carburetor to service it, you may notice a dark brown tarry coating on its internal parts, do not be alarmed. This plaque is a natural formation. It is formed as a result of the operation of forced crankcase ventilation.

And the older the engine, it has more wear, and as a result, the amount of these gases that rise in the cavity of the air filter increases, while more contamination of carburetor parts occurs. This is the relationship.

Plaque on carburetor parts and the walls that are located near them must be cleaned. But it is not necessary to clean the deposits on the walls of the neck, the walls of the dampers, and diffusers, since this deposit does not significantly affect the overall operation of the carburetor.

So don't waste your time. Although if you are a pedantic person and you have time, you can clean the carburetor to perfect cleanliness, in any case it won’t make it worse and in the future it will have a better effect on the adjustment of the VAZ 2107 carburetor.

Due to the fact that the secondary chamber of the carburetor is in operation for a short time, its secondary jet and the main air jet do not become very dirty. However, it is still necessary to check the degree of contamination.

It is recommended to do this every time you remove the carburetor cover.

It is recommended to clean the jets with either gasoline or solvent. You can use a thin wire for this.

To ensure that you do not encounter any troubles related to the operation of the carburetor along the way, every 50 - 80 thousand kilometers, check the condition of the mesh filter, which is located in the float chamber of the carburetor at the inlet.

The fact is that thanks to the effective operation of the fuel purification system of the VAZ 2107, this filter rarely becomes clogged. However, if you do not change the fine fuel filter in a timely manner, then there may be problems along the way, since this mesh filter will quickly become clogged.

All parts and cavities of the carburetor must be washed carefully. Let's say the float chamber, where there are resin deposits, it is advisable to wash it with a solvent or other effective means.

But, for example, you should only wash the diaphragms themselves and gaskets with pure gasoline, since all solvents can seriously damage them, and for this they must be washed separately.