Fuel pump Lada Kalina: how to replace

The question of how to remove the fuel pump on Lada Kalina cars can often be found on the World Wide Web. But the thing is that the quality of our gasoline and the ability for stable operation of this part cannot “get along” in a peaceful environment. Therefore, the need for a complete replacement or repair of this device for owners of Lada Kalina occurs with enviable frequency.

In the video, replacing the fuel pump on a Lada Kalina:

Replacing the fuel pump

To access the Lada Kalina fuel pump, you need to fold back the rear seat, remove the insulation (if any), and then begin dismantling the device.

Tool for the job

• Screwdriver with flat and Phillips blade.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

Step-by-step work order

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We open access to the protective cover.

To avoid losing, we put the bolts in one place.

Under the decorative cover you can see the fuel pump and DUST!

The block is marked with a red arrow, and the fittings with a green arrow.

Strikes should only be made on the ring.

Successfully dismantled fuel pump.

Replacing the fuel pump mesh

Fuel pump mesh close up

When the fuel pump is removed, you can inspect the filter mesh. This is the so-called coarse filter. To do this, you need to disassemble the fuel pump and replace the filter element.

On the left is the new one, on the right is the old fuel pump mesh.

How to change the coarse mesh

The work package for replacing the first stage filter consists of several stages:

1. Buying a new part.
2. Preparation of tools and repair site.
3. Disassembly, removal of the gasoline pump and replacement of the mesh catcher.

To replace the old dirty mesh, you need to remove the fuel pump

How to choose a Kalina mesh filter is described in the previous section. The location for repair work does not matter, since you do not need a car overpass or inspection ditch - disassembly is carried out from the interior.

Preparatory stage

In warm weather, disassemble the car directly on the street, but in windy weather, find a quiet place, otherwise dust will blow into the interior. In winter, it is more convenient to work in an insulated garage or box.

The tools you need to prepare are:

• a Phillips and flathead screwdriver;
• pliers;
• a small chisel or metal point;
• hammer;
• clean rags.

To disassemble and dismantle the fuel pump you will need a modest set of tools

Before starting work, remove unnecessary objects from the rear row of seats, and then remove the seats themselves. They block access to the technological opening with a hatch leading to the fuel tank. The latter is attached to the bottom of the car from the outside.

To reduce the risk of breathing dust during disassembly, it is recommended to vacuum the body covering under the seat.

Removing the fuel pump and replacing the mesh

The first step is to relieve excess pressure in the fuel line, otherwise when the pipes are removed, a stream of fuel will splash around the trim and the pungent smell of gasoline will “linger” in the cabin for a long time. There are 2 ways to relieve pressure:

conclusions

All of the instructions described above are designed so that even the most unprepared car enthusiast can independently remove the fuel pump on his Lada Kalina; the most important thing is not to rush, do everything consistently and carefully!

The Lada-Kalina submersible fuel pump, as in other cars, is necessary to supply gasoline to the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine. The pump is activated immediately when the ignition is turned on and maintains operating pressure until the car is turned off or the fuel runs out. The fuel pump is part of a module that includes a fuel pressure regulator, which changes the supply parameters when the driver operates the accelerator pedal. The module also contains a sensor that sends data to the dashboard, to the fuel level indicator. In addition, the design of the fuel filter includes a fine-mesh mesh for coarse fuel cleaning.

Lada 2108 Charoit › Logbook › Popular about the fuel pressure regulator

Probably, many people know that injection cars use a fuel system with excess pressure released, i.e. returning excess fuel back to the tank. The pump pumps fuel constantly, it enters the ramp under pressure, and a fuel pressure regulator is installed at the outlet of it. The detail is inconspicuous and generally not annoying during the work process.

The regulator didn’t bother me either, but one day while inspecting the hoses in the engine compartment, I noticed that the vacuum hose going to the regulator (hereinafter referred to as the RTD) had a crack. An experiment was immediately carried out: what if the crack in the hose is slightly opened? Nothing in the engine's performance has changed. I removed the hose altogether - and again no reaction. Naturally, the first question arose: is the RDT even working?! And then the second: how does this crap work? No, well, I knew it in general, but I wanted to understand it exactly. So, here’s the drawing:

The RTD has an inlet hole (in the drawing below), it is not visible, it looks into the ramp. Fuel comes here from the ramp under pressure. There is an outlet through which the fuel returns to the tank. And there is a pipe (3) connecting the vacuum cavity (B) through a hose to the inlet manifold, in which there is a vacuum when the engine is running. Pressure regulation occurs in two ways: a spring-loaded valve (5), set to a constant certain pressure, and through a diaphragm (4 ) a vacuum that changes depending on the load on the engine. The valve always maintains constant pressure, its operation does not depend in any way on the engine. But with a vacuum it is more interesting. You can find many different descriptions and diagrams of regulators, and they only confuse. Let's try to figure it out to make it clear.

We are essentially interested in 2 modes: XX and load.

At idle, the throttle valve is closed and maximum vacuum is maintained in the intake manifold. This vacuum reduces the RTD spring force, retracting the valve, and the valve opens earlier, at lower fuel pressure, thus lowering fuel pressure at idle.

Under load, the throttle valve opens, exposing the intake manifold to the atmosphere, and the vacuum decreases (i.e., air pressure increases, becoming closer to atmospheric pressure). In this case, the spring force increases, and as a result the valve opens later, and the fuel pressure increases.

In this case, the maximum pressure will be if you remove the vacuum hose from the RTD. That is. the valve does not increase pressure during load, but decreases it during idle, which may not be immediately obvious.

So now it’s clear why, in my case, removing the hose had no effect on the operation of the engine - the pressure increased, reached a maximum, and did not fall.

Source

Signs of trouble

There are several signs by which you can determine that the Kalina fuel pump is not working:

• the car does not start or stalls almost immediately;
• “Kalina” twitches when moving;
• the car does not develop maximum speed;
• extraneous noise or grinding noise coming from the fuel tank.

Similar symptoms are also observed when the fuel filter is clogged. Therefore, before removing the fuel pump on the viburnum, first replace the filter element. If the “symptoms” do not disappear, repair or replace the fuel module.

Common fuel pump malfunctions on Kalina:

• interruptions in the power supply to the unit: the fuel pump relay may fail. In this case, a diagnostic icon will be displayed on the instrument panel. Also, a power failure may be due to a loose connection in the fuse box;
• Fuel system blockage: most often occurs due to poor quality fuel containing small debris and impurities. Excessive contamination of coarse and fine filters leads to fuel pump failure;
• contamination of the fuel injector: leads to the fact that the car spontaneously turns off at idle.

The types of malfunctions described above require replacement of the fuel pump. The only type of work available to the car owner is cleaning the filter mesh.

Changing the mesh with your own hands

So, the mesh located in the fuel pump is forced to constantly come into contact with dust and dirt, because the pump itself is located between the seats, and dust constantly settles on its body.

That is why experienced motorists are not lazy to wipe the pump body with a damp cloth from time to time to avoid untimely clogging of the system.

To replace the mesh you need to go through several steps:

1. The very first thing we do is buy a new filter.
2. Raise the rear seats to provide access to the pump.

3. We unscrew the four fasteners on the hatch cover to the pump and put it aside.

4. Carefully remove the hoses. They are dismantled in the following way: press on the latch (you can use a screwdriver) and pry up the hose itself (with another screwdriver) in the direction of the arrow. We judiciously balance our strength so as not to break fragile parts and remove the hose. Unfasten the connector.

5. We thoroughly wipe the pump from dust and continue to disassemble the structure. Remove the retaining ring. Let us warn you right away that the ring is difficult to remove, you will have to work hard here or even use a hammer, but again, do not overdo it.

6. We remove the pump (in order not to flood the interior with gasoline, lay some unnecessary cloth).

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The first part of the work is completed. Let's proceed to the most important part, disassembling the pump:

1. There is a sensor and wires attached to the pump; you need to disconnect them.
2. Next, we remove the intake tube and bend the clamps (there are 4 of them) in order to be able to remove the glass.

3. We check the glass for dirt, if there is any, clean it.
4. And now we’re doing what we did such a large-scale job for – we’re removing the mesh. She usually looks creepy. But don’t be scared, just replace it with a new one and assemble the system in reverse order.

Replacing the fuel pump Kalina

Before replacement, read the operating manual to learn the location of the fuel system element, the specifics of the adjacent fuel lines and the types of fasteners. When working, it is important to follow the outlined algorithm so as not to disrupt the functioning of the fuel supply system. Damage to the fuel line or improper assembly of the fuel module can lead to engine damage and even a car fire.

To carry out the work, the car owner will need:

• pliers;
• hammer;
• screwdrivers for flat and Phillips slots.

Sequence of replacing the fuel pump Lada Kalina

Before starting work, you need to “de-energize” the Kalina by disconnecting the battery terminals. Repair procedures should be carried out away from fire and places where sparks could be generated.

1. We dismantle the rear seat and floor trim;
2. Under the seat there is a fuel tank cap secured with 4 “cross” bolts. Unscrew;
3. Now the car owner has access to the top cover of the fuel pump;

4. Now you need to “unhook” all the plugs and fittings from the pump. To remove the power plug, press the latch upward and pull the plug to the side. The power plug itself is located on the left side of the fuel pump cover;
5. To remove the fittings, you must use pliers. The locking clamp is pressed out by hand, after which the fitting itself is removed using pliers. The main thing is not to confuse the fittings: the lock on the top is green, the lock on the bottom is metal;
6. After dismantling the fittings, clean the fuel pump cover as much as possible - dirt will not get into the gas tank;
7. Removing the fuel pump cover retaining ring: take a flat-head screwdriver, place it against the outline of the ring and lightly tap it with a hammer so that the ring moves clockwise. The latch should pop out and the cover will be accessible;

8. Open the cover and carefully pull the pump up so as not to damage the adjacent elements. Additionally, make sure that no sand gets into the tank;

9. We take the new pump and carefully immerse it in the technological hole. We attach the lid. Next, assembly is carried out in reverse order.

How to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119?

Note! The fuel pump can be changed either separately from all other parts, or it can be completely replaced with a module; replacing the entire module with the entire module will be more expensive because the new module will have a Fuel Level Sensor, a pressure regulator and many other parts (Just why would you change them if they you are already in normal condition, most likely, if your sensor has become unusable and the regulator is still acting up, then change everything together), and separately, if you replace the fuel pump, then this is only one new part, and all the others will remain in place, if If you decide to replace the fuel pump separately, then in this case, after removing the pump itself, read the article entitled: “Repairing the fuel pump” in which everything is described!

Removal: 1) At the very beginning of the operation, fold back the rear seat cushion so that it does not interfere, this is done very simply, by hand pull out the hinges from under the inside of the seat (see photo 1) and then by pulling these loops, the rear seat cushion reclines like this shown in the figure under number 2, this gives you access to the fuel pump hatch and to the pump itself. As soon as access opens, fold the standard carpet to the side (it will be cut there specifically for the fuel pump, see photo 3 for more details) and remove the four screws which secure the hatch that closes the pump itself (see photo 4) and then remove it.

2) Now disconnect the block of wires from the pump itself, this is done by hand, that is, the latch that holds the block is pressed by hand and then the block is disconnected (see small photo below), then disconnect the two fuel pipes, to do this, press the latch with one screwdriver fastening one of the tubes, and with the other, slide the tube along the fitting and thereby disconnect it (see large photo), carry out exactly the same operation with the other tube and most importantly, after disconnecting them, do not confuse the tubes with each other, because they must be connected strictly in their places and if you connect them the other way around, the car simply won’t start, by the way, on some models (Depending on the year of manufacture of the car), the fuel pipes are secured not using plastic clamps on which you need to press and remove the tubes, but using metal spring clamps, So, if you have metal clamps, then you will need to wring them out and then disconnect all the tubes.

Note! Before disconnecting the pipes, do not forget to relieve the fuel pressure, this can be done in several ways, one of them is to remove the fuse that goes to the fuel pump (This fuse is not located in the mounting block where all the others are located, but under the cover which is located next to the gearshift knob, you can lift this cover with a screwdriver and the pump fuse is located in the very middle) and start the car and let it run until it stalls, the second method is described in detail in the article entitled: “Bleeding the pressure in the fuel rail on a VAZ”, well the last third method (Actually there are a little more of them, but these are the most basic of them) is very simple, disconnect the wire block as shown in the small photo above and start the car in the same way and wait until it stalls, when it stalls you can again just in case, start it up and the pressure in the power system after these procedures will be 100%!bled (The time you spend on bleeding off the pressure is a little more than one minute, but not everyone does this, but in vain, it’s safety first thing, just if you don’t bleed off the pressure in system, when the fuel pipes are disconnected, a little gasoline will flow out of them and your car will get dirty due to this, in addition, if a spark gets on the gasoline, then this will already ignite, which will not lead to anything good)!

3) Then, using two screwdrivers, rotate the plate that holds the fuel pump in one place counterclockwise until its cutouts align with the protrusions on the flange (see small photo below), once aligned, remove the plate and put it aside, and then After that, remove the fuel pump itself from the tank, but only remove it carefully without damaging the Fuel Level Sensor (The sensor just has a float, so you will have to carefully remove this float from the tank), by the way, as soon as the fuel pump is removed from the tank, look in that place where it was attached with a plate, a sealing rubber ring, if it is damaged in any way (compressed, everything is in cracks, for example, or even torn in some place), then in this case replace the ring with a new one because this ring is responsible for the tightness and if it will be damaged, then when driving over strong bumps, gasoline will flow out little by little (drop by drop) through this ring to the outside.

Installation: The new fuel pump is installed in its place in the reverse order of removal, the plate that secures the fuel pump during installation will need to be tightened a little more with light blows of a hammer through a drift and something else, there is an arrow on the fuel pump (you will see it right away), so install the new pump on its place so that this arrow points clearly to the rear of the car.

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Additional video: You can briefly see the process of replacing the fuel pump with a new one in the video below, everything is shown there in pictures and in descriptions.

Note! If you want a live video clip, and not pictures, then in this case watch another video in which the fuel pump is removed using the example of a VAZ 2110 car (On Kalina it is removed a little differently and it is not secured by a plate but by nuts , but you have to look at everything so that you at least know approximately how to replace the fuel pump on a car)!

In order to get to the location of the fuel pump on the Lada Kalina, you must first recline the rear seats and remove the insulating trim on the floor.

We find the lace between the rear seat belt buckles and pull it up, raising both seats. Below I will tell you what tools may be needed for this repair:

1. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
2. Hammer
3. Pliers

Purpose of the fuel pump

In short, the main task of a gas pump is to supply fuel from the gas tank to the car engine. In other words, the fuel pump is the “heart” of the car’s fuel system. And if problems arise in any of the departments of this “heart,” the car will not start, since gasoline will not reach the injectors.

Fuel pump of the Lada Kalina car

The design of the pump may seem primitive to some, but not everything is so simple: the gas tank in the Lada Kalina (and in many other cars) is located far from the engine, so the gas pump must be very powerful in order to supply gasoline at the required pressure to a large distance.

Gasoline pumps are either mechanical or electric. The Lada Kalina has an electric fuel pump (since at the moment it is considered the most modern and efficient). Like any other device, the Lada Kalina electric fuel pump has both advantages and disadvantages.

Let's start with the positives. This pump is reliable, its design is very simple, and most importantly, it is safe because it stops working immediately after the machine engine is turned off.

How often is replacement done?

There are clear regulations for replacing consumables, which include fuel filters. According to the requirements of the machine's operating instructions, they must be changed every 30 thousand kilometers. But given the different quality of fuel at gas stations and the operating conditions of the car, experienced auto mechanics recommend reducing the maximum interval to the following values:

• for a fine filter - 20 thousand km;
• for coarse mesh - 70 thousand km;
• when operating in northern regions, the service life is reduced by half from the regulations, that is, it is 15 and 35 thousand km, respectively.

Some motorists who carefully care for their Kalina offer their own replacement intervals. The principle is as follows: all consumables are updated simultaneously, along with the addition of fresh oil. With such a scheme, the interval is reduced to 7-15 thousand km, depending on the quality of the engine lubrication.

Compared to its predecessors, the Lada Kalina has a more modern and complex design. But the gasoline filtration scheme, inherited from the “tenth” VAZ family, remained unchanged. Thanks to this, it remains possible to change the cleaning elements yourself and not pay money for car service services.

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Why might the mesh need to be replaced?

Two grids - dirty and clean

First of all, because of bad gasoline. If you regularly refuel at dubious gas stations, then it’s only a matter of time before the fuel pump fails . Purification of gasoline from impurities in the gasoline pump occurs in several stages, and the mesh of the gasoline pump is the first line of defense, so to speak. It is the first to absorb all large particles of impurities and dirt. After passing through the mesh, gasoline enters the fine fuel filter, then passes through another mesh (which is located near the fuel pressure regulator), and finally goes through the third mesh (located directly in front of the injectors). If problems arise in any of these areas, you won’t be able to go far. The car engine simply will not start. Or it will start, but will work unevenly and jerkily.

recommends changing fine filters every 30,000 kilometers . But he doesn’t give any recommendations about the fuel pump mesh. Therefore, many car owners forget to change this grid, and remember about it only when the engine begins to behave strangely.

The general rule is: if the car has traveled 60,000 kilometers, the mesh should either be cleaned or replaced. It is advisable to clean it only if there is no serious mechanical damage to it. But if the machine has traveled the distance indicated above, then the mesh in the pump is often worn out to such an extent that it is easier to throw it away than to clean it.

Selecting new filter elements

To purchase fuel purification system parts for VAZ 1117-19 models, you need to know what they look like:

The coarse filter is a flat mesh bag made of chemically resistant plastic that captures large particles of 80-100 microns. In the center of the element there is a plastic fitting that fits onto the counterpart of the gasoline pump.

The mesh element is equipped with a pipe that fits onto the fuel pump fitting

The element is equipped with clamps for fastening fuel line connections

All modifications of the Lada Kalina, including the second generation, are equipped with absolutely identical filter elements - a “barrel” and a mesh catcher. The dimensions of the spare parts are also identical.

There are no tricks in choosing a coarse mesh - the parts are made according to a single sample and cost from 30 to 45 rubles. The only caution: in order not to purchase a low-quality product or a fake, contact well-established stores. Although the fuel pump mesh costs a penny, it plays an important role in the fuel system: it catches large debris that can quickly clog the filter paper of the next cleaning element.

In operation, the plastic case is not inferior to the metal one in terms of reliability.

The material from which secondary filters are made does not play a big role. What is important is the contents of the “barrel”, which cannot be seen or touched. Therefore, there are only 3 selection criteria:

• correspondence between the body dimensions and the diameter of the fittings;
• the presence of plastic clamps;
• brand (manufacturer).

The mounting clamp on the Kalina is designed for a case diameter of 56 mm

In order for the spare part to fit the mounting clamp, the case diameter must be 56 mm. The internal size of the gasoline pipes put on the fittings is 8 mm.

There are many different fuel filters sold in stores, and not all of them are equipped with clamps (in other cars, the hoses can be secured with clamps). The part for “Kalina” must have latches, otherwise the tubes cannot be secured.

A plastic latch secures the hose to the filter fitting

In the countries of the former USSR, the following manufacturers of gasoline filters have proven themselves best:

At the moment, second-generation Kalina machines are equipped with fine filters made of polyamide. But users are not very complimentary about the factory spare parts: after disassembly, it was discovered that the paper “accordion” was poorly glued to the body. As a result, half of the fuel passed through the gas pipeline without filtering. At the same time, based on the practice of isolated cases, it cannot be unequivocally stated that metal filters are better than plastic ones.

Inside the filter element there is porous paper that traps small particles

Table: cost of VAZ 1118 filters

Video: comparison of cleaning elements from different brands